View Full Version : Brake self-test fails on 2004 R1150RT
mpnolan
10-13-2008, 03:48 PM
I just removed both wheels on my 2004 R1150RT in order to have new tires mounted. After re-installing the wheels, the initial self test of the iABS fails. By this I mean that even before I start the bike, the "brake failure" dash light blinks rapidly, and never "passes the test" to go to the next stage where the light would blink more slowly. I have read a number of forum messages that explains what this indicates (brakes will not work), but have not seen anything that suggests what I could check to fix the problem. I am wondering if I tripped some sort of sensor or something in the process of removing the wheels that needs reset or something. Any thoughts on what I might try in order to remedy? With the "power assisted" brakes of iABS, I have effectively no brakes in this situation. Thanks.
Dave_Faria
10-13-2008, 06:01 PM
Just an off- the- wall guess. How did you remove your calipers?? If you pushed the brake pads back into the caliper body you might have caused brake fluid to overflow out of the IABS vent lines. Then when you reinstalled the brakes and the calipers refill with brake fluid you might have lowered the level in the IABS unit to give a low brake fluid level fault. I don't know but, that is the only scenaro from what you've said I can think of. Check fuild level in the IABS unit. If that IS the fault I think only the dealer can reset it. Again this is just a WAG.
I do know that is not the correct way to remove the calipers but, unless you have seen a BMW manual....
Good luck
stpete
10-13-2008, 08:56 PM
I did take my wheels of this summer to have the new tires installed also on 04 RT. Removed all three calipers and was very carefull putting wheels back on. Everything worked OK. In your case I would check abs sensors, make sure they are clean and do not have some metal shavings/dust etc on them. Before you start your bike, you should pump your brakes till they feel hard. Hope that helps.
BONEY
10-13-2008, 10:01 PM
First, make sure your brake pads are set by operating both the level and pedal a few times- as noted by previous poster.
Then, check to make sure that your lever and pedal are fully returned to the stop. You should hear a click at the very end of their travel right before/after they leave the stop. A good indicator is your brake light. It will stay on if your lever/pedal are not returning to the stop.
Next, make sure that the sensors are installed correctly. Take extra time to make sure that the wires are not pinched or bent and are preferably installed just like the factory did. Damage to either of the wires would probably give you a code, a sensor that is not able to read the tone ring will not give you a code at this time. (or will it? see next paragraph) I would expect a poor ring reading to give you a code after you moved the bike.
On second thought, I don't know if the ABS controller looks for a specific sensor reading on boot up, perhaps a dirty or out of place sensor could cause a failure to initialize.
As noted by a previous poster, the levels of fluid in your ABS controller may have changed, though they shouldn't have done so significantly. I would try rocking the bike back and forth, and maybe even laying down on it's side (on a piece of carpet) to "move things around in there" before taking off the tank to inspect. It is fluid that you're dealing with... perhaps there's a bubble?
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.