OK - It happened twice now.

[Carguz]

I am still adjusting to my 85 K100RS an it's inherent quircks. I have little history from previous owner. The bike is strong, but as expected some common faults have become apparant. The ODO and a crazy green nuetral light are the more annoying items and I will be soon addressing.

However a more serious occurance has taken place on 2 ocassions. Sometimes the shift to second seems a little long. Shifts are generally clean however on a couple of ocassions, the shift lever remained in 2nd and it would not let me shift up. There was no play in the lever as if it were in 5th. Trying to recall the circumstances, I think I had previously downshifted on both ocassions. It went back to normal after stopping, shifting into first and I continued with my normal upshifting.

I hope it's not the tranny and don't think it is as it shifts clean and doesn't jump out of any gear.

Do you think this is indicating a Spline lube? Any others with the same problem?
Thank you.

[PGlaves]

I am still adjusting to my 85 K100RS an it's inherent quircks. I have little history from previous owner. The bike is strong, but as expected some common faults have become apparant. The ODO and a crazy green nuetral light are the more annoying items and I will be soon addressing.

However a more serious occurance has taken place on 2 ocassions. Sometimes the shift to second seems a little long. Shifts are generally clean however on a couple of ocassions, the shift lever remained in 2nd and it would not let me shift up. There was no play in the lever as if it were in 5th. Trying to recall the circumstances, I think I had previously downshifted on both ocassions. It went back to normal after stopping, shifting into first and I continued with my normal upshifting.

I hope it's not the tranny and don't think it is as it shifts clean and doesn't jump out of any gear.

Do you think this is indicating a Spline lube? Any others with the same problem?
Thank you.

Usually a spline lube is indicated with troublesome downshift - not upshifts. But it can impact the 1st to 2nd shift too.

On that bike - at its age - when in doubt do a spline lube.

[Carguz]

Paul - Do you think a spline lube is a very tough job for a first timer? (I'm OK mechanically, not great but persistant and careful.)

Thanks.

[PGlaves]

Paul - Do you think a spline lube is a very tough job for a first timer? (I'm OK mechanically, not great but persistant and careful.)

Thanks.

"Persistent and careful" has a whole lot of folks beat by a long ways.

A spline lune on a K100 is fundamentally unbolt a bunch of stuff and later bolt it back on. Look at your bike. Find the seam between the transmission and the auxiliary case (bell housing), a bit back from the timing hole.

You will be removing the driveline from there back. Since I want to lube the driveshaft splines I remove the final drive, and then remove the transmission with the swingarm attached.

You will notice that when you remove the transmission the center stand is no longer on the bike. You need a way to secure the front wheel, and then support the bike without a center stand. I have a lift with a wheel vice - and support the bike with a scissors jack and block under the engine sump.

Before I had the lift I secured the front wheel by strapping the side of the forward edge of the wheel firmly to a stout post. The center jack-post in a 2 car garage works well, but so does a 4" tree trunk.

[hhshort]

Paul You didn't mention clutch alighment or alignment tools. I have 2 85 K100's that are in need and I will be doing them this winter. Is It possible to eyeball the clutch or use rigged up tools. I was 14 when I did my first clutch R&R and didn't know any thing about alignment tools but knew that things had to be lined up or that tranny was not going to go in there. Harold Short McP. KS.

[roy]

unless you unbolt the clutch basket you do not need any alignment tools.

When you pull the tranny the clutch is held in place by the pressure plate and unless you forcefully move it side ways it will be properly lined up when you reinstall the tranny.

Quick Note: Take out one of the tranny bolts to confirm size and length. Then go to your hard ware store and get 3 bolts that are about 1" to 1 1/2" longer. Cut the heads off of these bolts and the carefully cut a small slot screw driver slot in the end of the bolt. Screw these in 3 of the tranny mount bolt holes after removing the mounting bolts. This helps support & realign the tranny.

Roy

[Beemer01]

http://www.bmwmcnj.com/Technical/bmd%20k100%20how%20to%20tips%20for%20free..pdf

This will prove to be an invaluable addition to your Clymer manual. Between the two, you have an excuse to buy new cool tools.... and save yourself thousands of dollars in dealership costs.:thumb