Yet Another Final Drive Failure

[grw]

My 2006 R1200RT suffered a final drive failure at 3500 miles back in September of 2006. The failure mode for me was the rear wheel hub which self destructed allowing the wheel to wobble from side to side. I posted extensively about the problem back at the time. It was so different from the other failures people have experienced that it garnered some attention from the technical folks on the forum.

My wife, my two sons, and I were on our way back from the National in Gillette, WY this July when we stopped overnight at relatives in Coeur d'Alene, ID. My sons were riding my '85 K100 and Deb and I were on the R1200RT. We'd ridden over 3,000 miles since leaving home.

The next morning we headed towards home (Portland) which is a easy 400 mile ride on I-90, US395, and I-84. We pulled over in Spokane Valley to discuss something and as I came up the ramp I felt a wobble that seemed like a tire problem. When I went to ride up the ramp and over to the entrance ramp back onto I-90 the wobble was so bad I thought I had a flat.

Closer inspection showed almost an inch of side play in the rear wheel. We called BMW Roadside Assistance and they towed the bike over to Beaudry Motorsports in Post Falls (a few miles back east on I-90).

The next morning we had a mechanic from Beadry's look at the wheel and he pronounced the bike unridable. After considering our options we decided the simplest solution was to rent a Uhaul truck and bring the bike back to our dealer, BMW of Western OR, in Tigard, OR. The truck cost $300 and burned about $200 in gas on the way home.

The good news first: The BMW Roadside Assistance plan reimbursed us for our $500 in expenses. The check came quickly and with no hassle. Bravo.

The bad news: Yet another hub failure. The shop was able to remove the rear wheel from my bike by hand! The hub failure was complete this time. I guess in retrospect we're lucky that the wheel didn't separate from the bike on I-90. Very lucky indeed.

BMW told the shop that they didn't believe it. Eventually they OK'd the repair and the final drive was ordered. I dropped the bike off in late July and I'm still waiting to get it back. I did have them repair some damage from dropping the bike on a Forest service road in Wyoming. It may be that some of those parts are holding up the repair. Unlike previous times when the bike has been in the shop the communication this time has been pretty sparse. Not sure why. The guys at BMW OR Tigard are generally super about everything.

Between the two final drive failures (the second one was at 14,000 miles) a cylinder head retaining bolt pulled out during a regular service (Insp. II) and BMW had to authorize a warranty Time-sert repair (which necessitated a re-break-in due to new rings on the affected side).

I've just about had it with this R1200RT. Trying to decide what to do next. My inclination is to sell it and move on. It will work and look great when I get it back but can I sell it to another person in good conscience after the problems it's had?

The 23 year old K100 ran flawlessly the whole trip. My kids rode home while my wife and I drove the truck with the 2 year old RT in it.

-Gary

[PGlaves]

Please file a report with the NHTSA. A wheel flange so loose as to allow the wheel to fall of is clearly an item that ought to trigger a recall.

[Ted]

right here:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

[Paul_F]

In the US, do you not have lemon laws that would allow you to get a new bike from BMW? If, so, surely this situation would qualify.

[PGlaves]

In the US, do you not have lemon laws that would allow you to get a new bike from BMW? If, so, surely this situation would qualify.

US Lemon Law varies from state to state, but usually involve several attempts to fix a problem, and incarceration in a shop for at least a certain number of days within a given time period.

While this sucks, I don't think it fits any Lemon Law I've looked at.

[cjack]

Not sure what "Yet another hub failure"means. Were there hub failures? Or does he mean "another final drive failure"? But, I wonder why BMW was reported to not believe it at first. There was a bulletin outlining generally checking wheel flange splines at the final drive. If looseness is found, the flange can be replaced if the male splines are not damaged or out of spec (press fit). It is secured by a large lock ring.

I think someone on one of the forums complained of this setup and after his was fixed...or maybe he didn't have an issue needing a fix...but anyway he ran a big bolt and nut thru the big hole with two big washers, one on each side. So it can't get away. Seemed nuts to me with the lock ring there, but I can see that any severe looseness and miles could push that ring off I guess.

I have most of my worries when I am sitting in the big chair imagining what could go wrong. When I'm riding, and everything feels right, no worries. Probably the best I can do for myself is a preflight check every time I get on the bike and pay attention to how it feels while I am on it. It's a heck of a thing to be responsible for yourself and also the manufacturer, but just like accidents, it doesn't matter who did what wrong...on a bike, the rider gets hurt either way.

[marcopolo]

Please file a report with the NHTSA. A wheel flange so loose as to allow the wheel to fall of is clearly an item that ought to trigger a recall.

That's exactly what happened to my '06 RT while in Wyoming in the summer of 2007. It had 38,000 kms on it at the time. After removing the circlip, we could take the rear wheel/flange off by hand; there was absolutely no friction left in the friction fit between the flange and axle tube. The FD, rear rotor and lug nuts were replaced under warranty in Salt Lake. I was only off the road for two days (thankfully a FD was overnighted from California). I, too, was riding two-up at the time this happened. My bike now has 74,000 kms on it, so the second FD has travelled about the same distance as the first did at the time it failed. So far, all is well, but it sure makes you think of the horrible possibilities. Essentially the splines on the flange and the mating set on the axle tube wear each other away. There was a Tech Service Bulletin in early 2005 which covered this issue for FDs on the 1200GS (only hexhead on the market at the time). The TSB said the only fix was to replace the entire FD as in all likelihood, the splines on the axle tube would have suffered wear, and not just those on the flange. BMW seems to have walked back from that, as I know of another fellow who had the same problem, but they (BMW USA) would only authorize replacing the flange, and not the entire FD (big cost difference there). Obviously, after replacing just the flange, the rear wheel has to be in spec regarding rear wheel play (max 1mm if I recall). I'd be annoyed if that's all they'd do for me, as they have an earlier TSB saying the FD had to be replaced. Gee, think cost was a motivation in the change in their thinking?

I just submitted a complaint to NHTSA as suggested above. I was surprised it accepted one from outside the US.

[PGlaves]

N

I think someone on one of the forums complained of this setup and after his was fixed...or maybe he didn't have an issue needing a fix...but anyway he ran a big bolt and nut thru the big hole with two big washers, one on each side. So it can't get away. Seemed nuts to me with the lock ring there, but I can see that any severe looseness and miles could push that ring off I guess.



OK Jack, help me out here. The wheel flange is turning at tire speed - right? And the opposite end of that big hole is the FD case - hopefully turning at 0 RPM - right?

So is one washer spinning? One washer and the bolt? Everything turning, scuffing on the case?

Unless I'm missing something fairly fundamental, this sounds like something an 8 year old kid would do with his or her wagon.

[cjack]

OK Jack, help me out here. The wheel flange is turning at tire speed - right? And the opposite end of that big hole is the FD case - hopefully turning at 0 RPM - right?

So is one washer spinning? One washer and the bolt? Everything turning, scuffing on the case?

Unless I'm missing something fairly fundamental, this sounds like something an 8 year old kid would do with his or her wagon.

I'll try to find the post and picture again, maybe the housing end was more of a plug, and I remember that everything did spin, but your wagon analogy is kind of right about it.

[grasslander]

I've just about had it with this R1200RT. Trying to decide what to do next. My inclination is to sell it and move on. It will work and look great when I get it back but can I sell it to another person in good conscience after the problems it's had?

-Gary

I couldn't sell without disclosure and especially if asked about any repairs performed. As far as BMW is concerned (and probably any BMW dealer) it's fixed and has warranty, so why worry the new buyer. If you disclose - you will take a bath on value and may not be able to sell it!

My experience anyway...

[deilenberger]

OK Jack, help me out here. The wheel flange is turning at tire speed - right? And the opposite end of that big hole is the FD case - hopefully turning at 0 RPM - right?
Paul,

In the center of the FD case is the through axle - which turns at both ends. If you used a stopper sort of design on the outer end of the axle I can't see a problem with it. Actually - a stopper design would work on both ends.

So is one washer spinning? One washer and the bolt? Everything turning, scuffing on the case?
Nope. Never touches the case. The axle (part with the hole through it) is once piece end to end, and if one end is spinning - so is the other end.
Unless I'm missing something fairly fundamental, this sounds like something an 8 year old kid would do with his or her wagon.I think you missed something..

[grw]

I couldn't sell without disclosure and especially if asked about any repairs performed. As far as BMW is concerned (and probably any BMW dealer) it's fixed and has warranty, so why worry the new buyer. If you disclose - you will take a bath on value and may not be able to sell it!

My experience anyway...

I swung by the shop yesterday and sure enough they've been waiting for one last painted part. As it turns out they can go ahead and do the repairs and when the painted part comes in it's NBD to swap it with the damaged one. Only a little disassembly required. So I should have the bike back soon enough.

As to the lemon laws they are state by state. Since I bought this bike in Montana and not in Oregon I'm SOL in any case as Montana doesn't have a lemon law that I'm aware of. I will report the failure to the NTSB, but I reported the first one and it seems to have fallen into a hole.

Not sure what I'm going to do about the sale. I might have to just suck it up and take my hit. I won't get enough on a trade-in to make that a good solution, so I will just have to see what I can get in a private sale. My general approach is to be honest since that way I can sleep at night. The shame is that I really like the bike.

I may just spring for a factory shield for my base model K100 and maybe a new set of bags after I dispose of the R12. At least the '85 has proven reliable.

We're getting to the end of the riding season here in the PNW so I may have to wait for spring to decide what to do.

Thanks for the responses.

-Gary

[Easy]

Montana does have a lemon law.

Go the official Montana website and look under consumer protection, then scroll down to "cars and trucks sales and repairs."


Easy :usa

[PGlaves]

Paul,

In the center of the FD case is the through axle - which turns at both ends. If you used a stopper sort of design on the outer end of the axle I can't see a problem with it. Actually - a stopper design would work on both ends.Nope. Never touches the case. The axle (part with the hole through it) is once piece end to end, and if one end is spinning - so is the other end.I think you missed something..

I looked at several here at the LOE 1000. It would be possible with a "plug" or washer that only contacts the turning center portion of the drive on the case side.

[SteveTech]

I am an auto BMW master tech, I have worked on BMW's since 1977.
What you have to do if you have a FD failure is to make sure the shop sends in a PuMA
case or a quality repair form. This way BMW have to respond to the issue if they get enough reports on one subject.
Also as a club why don't we get do a survey on failures, this would include -:
Miles ridden before failure.
Bike used mainly for 1 or 2 up riding.
Oil viscosity and brand (if known)
We could then send this survey to BMW AG and BMW NA.
As a club I feel we have way more chance of a response from BMW than individuals.
Your thoughts please!
Steve

[grw]

I couldn't sell without disclosure and especially if asked about any repairs performed. As far as BMW is concerned (and probably any BMW dealer) it's fixed and has warranty, so why worry the new buyer. If you disclose - you will take a bath on value and may not be able to sell it!

My experience anyway...

So the bike sold. A nice guy from Washington State came and hauled the bike back home via U-haul truck. Considering the market conditions I got a fair price. I gave him a copy of the latest Owner's News (MOAN as the late Chefredaktur was fond of calling it) and encouraged him to join (he may already have done so). Nice guy and a very pleasant wife. I'm sure they'll have many happy rides aboard the Red Baron.

The "BMW NUT" license plate is once more hanging on the garage wall. The K100 looks a tad lonely with just a MZ 125 and tiny Ninja 250 to keep it company.

The sad part is that I had purchased the R1200RT with the hopes of it being the last new beemer purchase for many years. Seemed like a keeper when I first got it. But the downtime just drove me nuts and while this last repair holds some promise of being permanent (the final drive is the latest spec instead of another 2006 vintage one) my heart was not in it anymore.

I've got a bead on an old R80RT. Maybe that will work. We'll see.

-Gary (who has to update his .sig later)

[deilenberger]

As I mentioned - I'm going to be moving the postings here that are a discussion on the clubs (RA and MOA) relationships with BMW to the "Clubhouse" since it's a discussion on BMW clubs - not hexheads.

Hang on - never done this before, guess we'll see how it works!

[deilenberger]

The postings about the MOA and RA's role in regards to BMW-NA have all been moved to a new thread in Clubhouse. Please join in on that thread if that's the subject you'd like to discuss.

It can be found at: http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33134

Please keep this thread specific to hexhead rear-drive failures.

Thanks for your cooperation.

[gordon1200]

Okay, is it just me. Or does Don have the best avatar ever! You rule Don! I have to admit I am really concerned about the whole final drive reliability issue. Have a r1200s, AWESOME bike. Mines a 2007, I'll be taking it in for it's 10k. I intend to make sure they change the final drive fliuids. Honestly, I don't think I could replace this bike, so I'm in it for the long haul. Best to all, and again, Don, uda man!

[AZ-J]

Okay, is it just me. Or does Don have the best avatar ever! You rule Don! I have to admit I am really concerned about the whole final drive reliability issue. Have a r1200s, AWESOME bike. Mines a 2007, I'll be taking it in for it's 10k. I intend to make sure they change the final drive fliuids. Honestly, I don't think I could replace this bike, so I'm in it for the long haul. Best to all, and again, Don, uda man!

Ditto, ditto, and I would think as the lightest R bike, the R1200S has the least pre-load or load issues, ergo less likely to suffer the problems the heavier R bikes have.

[cjack]

I noticed that BMW now recommends a final drive fluid change every 12K miles as well as the 600 mile. At least for all the 2009 bikes.

[AKBeemer]

I've decided to have it changed at every 6000 mile interval service. It really does not add much relative to the total cost and it makes me feel a bit more confident.

[Wallowa]

I've decided to have it changed at every 6000 mile interval service. It really does not add much relative to the total cost and it makes me feel a bit more confident.

Changing lube in FD and lubing splines [overlook by many..] is very simple to do...about 30 mins for me..most of that is slowly getting the FD refilled [220ml]..on my '07 you refill through the sensor hole and the process is very slow....

[AZ-J]

I noticed that BMW now recommends a final drive fluid change every 12K miles as well as the 600 mile. At least for all the 2009 bikes.

This includes 2007 and 2008 bikes, as well.

[AZ-J]

US Lemon Law varies from state to state, but usually involve several attempts to fix a problem, and incarceration in a shop for at least a certain number of days within a given time period.

While this sucks, I don't think it fits any Lemon Law I've looked at.

Paul, in post 1 here, it says "I dropped the bike off in late July and I'm still waiting to get it back." as of October. In AZ, the lemon law triggers at 30 days, and is automatic on day 31, besides 4 x repair of a driveability issue. I went through this with BMWNA with my F800S in October 2008.

[AKBeemer]

It does seem that the FD issue has cooled off a bit; maybe due to the time of year. Although I live in a place where the density of hexhead bikes is very low, we do get scads of folks through here on them in the summer. These are bikes that are operating towards the extreme end of the scale in that they tend to be heavily loaded and running towards the end of a service cycle when they get here. I think the local dealer said he had one FD failure to work on last summer.

[cjack]

Changing lube in FD and lubing splines [overlook by many..] is very simple to do...about 30 mins for me..most of that is slowly getting the FD refilled [220ml]..on my '07 you refill through the sensor hole and the process is very slow....

I think lubing the rear splines is most important at least once early on. I have seen a few pretty dry splines.

[PGlaves]

I noticed that BMW now recommends a final drive fluid change every 12K miles as well as the 600 mile. At least for all the 2009 bikes.

Which is what I've recommended from day one. Be sure to use the proper 75w90 synthetic lube.

[PGlaves]

Paul, in post 1 here, it says "I dropped the bike off in late July and I'm still waiting to get it back." as of October. In AZ, the lemon law triggers at 30 days, and is automatic on day 31, besides 4 x repair of a driveability issue. I went through this with BMWNA with my F800S in October 2008.

If Arizona law actually says that a single instance of a failure that takes BMW / the shop 31 days to fix is a "lemon" then there are lots of shops that need to speed up their repair processes substantially. Which would be a good thing.

[cjack]

Which is what I've recommended from day one. Be sure to use the proper 75w90 synthetic lube.

I guess their thinking is (as if anyone could know what their thinking is) was that the final drive is sealed from breathing air or water as opposed to earlier models. Once the drive is flushed (which was supposed to happen in manufacture before 2007), then the oil should last forever...heh.

[Wallowa]

Agreed on dry splines...mine were dry at 600 miles...I also lube mine do to water getting into boots..I use Honda Moly 60 on splines..

Not starting a "lube war" [there are tons of threads on this] but I use Red Line Heavy ShockProof in my FD..

Also just the FD lube does not seem to be THE cause or even a contributing cause of the FD failures...again lots of posts on this but nothing from BMW..

What is the source of information stating that BMW now recommends FDs lube changes in pre-'09s every 12,000 miles? As simple as it is to change, mine is on a 10,000 change, over kill but also lets me inspect the lube for digested gears/races/bearings... Thanks...

[cjack]

BMW's latest RSD which contains the maintenance and repair data for all the models shows the FD oil change for at least the '09s. The '08s too, I didn't check them all, but the '06es don't say to yet.
I like Honda Moly 60 too.
I have seen one GS (newish) where the splines were rusted to the final drive and separating them was nearly impossible. The front splines at the trans are not as vulnerable, but probably should check them too.

[PGlaves]

I guess their thinking is (as if anyone could know what their thinking is) was that the final drive is sealed from breathing air or water as opposed to earlier models. Once the drive is flushed (which was supposed to happen in manufacture before 2007), then the oil should last forever...heh.

Jack, Have you examined a pinion shaft seal or the axle shaft seal(s) in these units? I haven't, but am certainly curious as to how they imagine that a pressure vessel with rubber seals works as the FD heats up and cools down in normal use. And I also wonder if the ventless design is contributing to seals that puke oil all over, occasionally.

[cjack]

Jack, Have you examined a pinion shaft seal or the axle shaft seal(s) in these units? I haven't, but am certainly curious as to how they imagine that a pressure vessel with rubber seals works as the FD heats up and cools down in normal use. And I also wonder if the ventless design is contributing to seals that puke oil all over, occasionally.

The seals are the usual looking 'rubber' material that the 1150 seals look like. With the spring in the lip.
I had the oil puke on my '08 K12S when it was new after I changed the lube. I don't think I overfilled it, but about an ml or two came out of the outside seal. Made me nervous, but then it dried up. Maybe I overfilled it 2 ml. When the drive is warm and I take the plug off the rear (3 o-clock position), it squirts a drop or two out under mild pressure. On the K12S, that plug is above the fluid level with the bike on the sidestand. I haven't seen any leakers at the local dealership since the '05 GS bikes had some quality control issue with the production seal install.

[AZ-J]

If Arizona law actually says that a single instance of a failure that takes BMW / the shop 31 days to fix is a "lemon" then there are lots of shops that need to speed up their repair processes substantially. Which would be a good thing.

See ARS 44-1264(A)(2) here (http://www.azleg.state.az.us/FormatDocument.asp?inDoc=/ars/44/01264.htm&Title=44&DocType=ARS). That's the Arizona definition of a lemon. You just have to write them pursuant to part C to invoke it. I had had to this once with a car in 1999, and once with my 2007 F800S.

[lagator]

Well it's happened to me now. Took my 2006 RT in to the shop today for a scheduled service. The bike has 48,500 miles on it. I purchased it new in May of 06. During the service the tech noticed side to side play at the rear wheel. There has never been any oil leak or seepage from the final drive. The oil did not show anychips flakes or metalic paste. They suspected that the bearings were starting to go out. I had checked for side play at the wheel about a month ago prior to going to the Dogwood Trail Rally. Round trip this was about 480 miles. I've only taken acouple of short (40 to 50 mile) rides since. I left the bike there and was called later today by the tech. He opened up the final drive unit and said the bearings look fine but the crown and pinion gear are bad. The final drive oil was changed at 600 miles and every 12,000 miles after. How can this happen? The bike is out of warranty because of mileage but not years. They have contacted BMW but no word yet. The two recommendations by the shop are a complete new final drive(between $1800 &$1900 plus labor) or rebuild final drive with new gears, bearings, and seals ($1,000 or more for parts plus labor). Any comments,suggestions, or reccomendations?

[cjack]

New drive.

When the bulletin that came out recommending a fluid change at the 600 mile checkup, there was some reference to flushing the drive of manufacturing residue. I wondered if this was chemical or what. Having the crown and pinion toast is really odd. You mean the teeth mesh or is it the bearing surface on the pinion shaft...but not the bearing?

[PGlaves]

New drive.

When the bulletin that came out recommending a fluid change at the 600 mile checkup, there was some reference to flushing the drive of manufacturing residue. I wondered if this was chemical or what. Having the crown and pinion toast is really odd. You mean the teeth mesh or is it the bearing surface on the pinion shaft...but not the bearing?

Jack,

The first couple of times I saw the factory fluid drained from these drives (probably in 06) I was convinced by its appearance that it had a moly additive. Gray - slimy - almost a creamy sheen to it. I was told by the tech that he had been told that it looked like that because of the residue from the manufacturing/assembly process.

My hunch is that they were burnishing the gear teeth or something and the excess gets picked up in the initial fill of oil. I hope I wasn't seeing all the excess metal they didn't get out before sending the bike away on a ship.

[lagator]

New drive.

When the bulletin that came out recommending a fluid change at the 600 mile checkup, there was some reference to flushing the drive of manufacturing residue. I wondered if this was chemical or what. Having the crown and pinion toast is really odd. You mean the teeth mesh or is it the bearing surface on the pinion shaft...but not the bearing?

I don't know which it is Jack. I was at home when the tech called and he just said the gears were bad. I'm going back to the shop Saturday morning to look at it and decide which repair option to go with. I think that for my own peace of mind I'll probably gor with the entire new final drive unit. Of course that depends on if BMW decides to give me some sort of good will assistance on this. For what it's worth I had ridden the bike there and did not have a way to get back home untill my wife got off work at 4 PM. They had an employee drive me home (50 miles one way). They have always given the best service that they can for a small shop.

[cjack]

I was wondering about the pinion shaft because somewhere along the way they increased the size of the inside pinion shaft bearing which uses the pinion shaft end as the internal race. I think 8/06. Anyway, I would get the latest drive if I lost one. Some of this is really the cost of riding. I would like BMW to get everything right the first time and $20K...etc. but the bottom line is sometimes you have to get on with it and ride.
On the initial drain, it really looked like moly or assembly grease (same thing?) and there never was much on the magnet in the drain plug (three different K1200Ses). I put the magnet plug into all three before ever draining the drive. Not much there. What was there was a really fine black magnetic goo about enough to get under your thumb nail.
I would be surprised if BMW doesn't assist on this one.

[cluster148]

Yes,Paul,I've had another one..........on the 05 12GS.56K with the "lifetime lube".Happened on the way to Daytona.

I'm in the process of writing up the experience for future use,but needless to say,it was a long drawn out expensive experience.

I opted for a new drive unit($2200) from BMW Daytona.Great response there.

BMWNA was just worthless.Worse than worthless! And........they wanted me to sign a "general release" saying that I wouldn't disclose the problem or any support they offered.I told them they could stick it with their "good will gesture" and paid for the repair myself.

In addition to the failure,inconvenience and cost,a further issue was the fact that I was told that there were no parts available in the US to repair the rear units and BMW Daytona had no idea when parts would be available!

BMW Daytona initially wanted to keep the ruined rear drive to"send to Germany for inspection".I demanded my parts(since I paid 100% of the cost of repair) and have got them for your inspection at Johnson City.

Clark Luster

BMWMOA Ambassador

[lagator]

Update on the resolution of my final drive failure. To recap I took my 2006 1200 RT in for a scheduled service on 4-16. The bike is a few weeks shy of being in service for three years but has 48,500 miles. The tech noticed excessive play when he checked the rear wheel. At first he thought it was bearings. I received a call after they took the unit apart and they said the gears were bad. After returning for an in person inspection they had discovered that it was neither. The surface that the roller bearing race rides on between the wheel hub splines and the crown gear on the axle tube(shaft) is dull and rough and has play between the race and the axle tube. It seems as though it has somehow been reduced in diameter causing an improper fit between the bearing race and the axle tube. There is no visible damage to the race and the bearing spins freely with no unusual play. There is no blue discoloration on the shaft due to heat which would show if the race had spun on the shaft. I'm fairly sure that this failure is not due to a lubrication issue. In my opinion this was due to either some metalurgy problem due to some fault in the manufacturing process (like improper heat treating) or a design flaw such as the thickness of the axle tube wall being too thin. Just my opinion. I was not aware that I had a problem untill it was diagnosed during the service. I had checked for play in the rear wheel around 500 miles before this and found no problem so this was caught at an early stage in the failure. I have to wonder if this may not be a contributing factor in many final drive failures that are not caught in time and go on to cause bearing and gear failures.
And now the rest of the story. I picked up my repaired bike today. I have a complete new final drive unit. BMW has covered this under a good will warranty. They have paid for the unit and labor. No cost to me, except for the original service that I took it in for. Plus there is a two year unlimited mileage warranty on the new unit. I believe I received this resolution to my problem because my service records indicate that I had done all of the scheduled maintainance on the bike and final drive done at the required mileage. We've all heard of the horror stories about final drive failures and problems with BMW on repairs but I couldn't be happier. I'm also sure that I would probably feel differently if the outcome had been different. I know that there have been reports of issues in dealing with BMW on problems but I must say that in this case I am happy that they did the "right" thing. I also can't say enough about the fantastic staff at Hebert's Cycles in Baton Rouge, La. They were on top of this problem from the get go from diagnosing the problem to dealing with BMW to reach a resolution and to getting the parts to fix the bike. Eight days from time in to time out is great for a small dealership like theirs. The rear drive unit arrived this morning and the bike was ready before lunch. Thank you BMW and Hebert's Cycles

[PGlaves]

Yes,Paul,I've had another one..........on the 05 12GS.56K with the "lifetime lube".Happened on the way to Daytona.

I'm in the process of writing up the experience for future use,but needless to say,it was a long drawn out expensive experience.

I opted for a new drive unit($2200) from BMW Daytona.Great response there.

BMWNA was just worthless.Worse than worthless! And........they wanted me to sign a "general release" saying that I wouldn't disclose the problem or any support they offered.I told them they could stick it with their "good will gesture" and paid for the repair myself.

In addition to the failure,inconvenience and cost,a further issue was the fact that I was told that there were no parts available in the US to repair the rear units and BMW Daytona had no idea when parts would be available!

BMW Daytona initially wanted to keep the ruined rear drive to"send to Germany for inspection".I demanded my parts(since I paid 100% of the cost of repair) and have got them for your inspection at Johnson City.

Clark Luster

BMWMOA Ambassador

Looking forward to examining it Clark. Busted ones - not sent back to Germany - are a bit hard to come by. Expensive suckers too!

[chequemegon]

i can relate. the shops still give you that jive about them (final drive's) not being statistically significant. i'm thinking of going back, pre R12 since i totaled my gs.

[mkohls]

I would like to see all the failed final drives show up at the International rally. They could be displayed on a trailer right next to the demo ride tent. It may raise a few eyebrows though it might change BMW's attitude.

[PGlaves]

I would like to see all the failed final drives show up at the International rally. They could be displayed on a trailer right next to the demo ride tent. It may raise a few eyebrows though it might change BMW's attitude.

Most of the failed drives are repaired and back on the bike - or were shipped back to Germany.

[grw]

Most of the failed drives are repaired and back on the bike - or were shipped back to Germany.

I'm pretty sure both of my failures were in the splined connection to the wheel flange and not the bearings or seals in the final drive itself. If your rear wheel falls off while you are riding the exact cause is academic. You're still laying on the ground wondering what happened! :-)

I did buy the R80RT and I'm in the process of redoing the clutch and just finished having the gear box repaired (Matt Parkhouse did the overhaul). At least when R80 parts fail it is possible to determine why. That's a lot more satisfying than the mystery surrounding my final drive failures.

I should add that the other downtime the bike suffered was unrelated to the final drive. When the bike went into the shop for a 10K service one of the cylinder head studs stripped in the engine block and BMW authorized a "time sert" repair of the threads. This required a week in the shop and a new break-in period since the rings were changed when the top end came apart.

There was also the cruise control switch failure which required replacing the switch housing with the current model which left me with two ESA buttons one of which did nothing and could not be wired up to function. And the need to install an auxillary fuse box in order to run electric clothing. And the infuriating glove box that swallowed anything put in it (it is really the radio box without a liner to make it useful for storage).

I still miss the power and handling. It was the sweetest handling BMW that I've owned. But the power assisted brakes became irritating after a while. They were very hard to modulate. You had to learn how much pressure brought on assist and either brake early to slow without assist or brake hard to stop right now. Didn't bother me at first but got progressively more annoying with time.

So ends the saga of the R12RT.

-Gary