Electric Upgrade Options

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I'm considering this because my rotor and stator are badly scored and I'll (finally) be using heated clothing this winter. Just a rotor and stator replacement parts look expensive:

BMW parts (from MaxBMW)
Rotor: p/n 12311244642 $488.40
Stator: p/n 12311244641 $208.54
Total: $696.94

vs.

http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm

400w Omega upgrade: "rotor, stator, hi-output voltage regulator, high-capacity diode board with solid mounts, connecting wires, allen wrench and a rotor removal too" for $575.00. On the surface, it looks like a no brainer, but are these components really as rugged as the oldies?

Has anyone made this upgrade? It's expensive, but seems like a lot more power, more new parts and a better diode board for a whole lot less $$$. Know of any other options to replace rotor and stator (and probably regulator)?

[wuli959]

another option is the EnDuraLast (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EDLBMW.html)

I don't have direct experiance but am looking at making the upgrade this winter. Lots of info about both at www.airheads.org (www.airheads.org)
Interesting read here on the OMEGA (http://www.airheads.org/content/view/298/98/)

More info then you wanted on Snowbum's site (http://www.bmwmotorcycletech.info/AftrMrktAlt.htm) :)

[widebmw]

I have had the Omega alternator on my airhead for 6 years about 100,000 miles and it works great, no problems.
2up with 2 Gerbing jackets and extra driving lights.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I have had the Omega alternator on my airhead for 6 years about 100,000 miles and it works great, no problems.
2up with 2 Gerbing jackets and extra driving lights.

Good to hear that. Did you do the whole swap (diode board, etc.) or just the alternator?

[widebmw]

I got the whole kit. Alternator - rotor & stator, diode board, voltage regulator, solid diode board mounts.
It easy to put was on, Except :hungover for the solid diode board mounts.
It is hard to get to the nuts back by the starter.
If you take the breather hose off it helps, Except :hungover my breather hose was old and cracked so I had to get a new one before I could finish.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I got the whole kit. Alternator - rotor & stator, diode board, voltage regulator, solid diode board mounts.
It easy to put was on, Except :hungover for the solid diode board mounts.
It is hard to get to the nuts back by the starter.
If you take the breather hose off it helps, Except :hungover my breather hose was old and cracked so I had to get a new one before I could finish.

Hmm...if you took the starter out, would that access issue go away? What year and model bike do you have anyway, I'm curious about obstructions that I'll hit too.

[widebmw]

No I did not take the starter out but to get to the nuts for the solid dioed board mounts you have to take the cover off of the area that the startre is in.
Thats also where the breather hose is. Be carefull if it is old it may crack if you try to remove it.

[Polarbear]

I did the Omega too and its clearly better than the stock stuff, even with sooo many miles I did on my stock alternator. Two years old now, my switch and did my own. The bolts for the new diode are hard to do, but patience gets her done. The components are built better, period, no question. R100/7,'78. I found the same thing from BMW, the original alternator parts are expensive and the Omega was a clear choice for better stuff, less money:). Randy:thumb

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I did the Omega too and its clearly better than the stock stuff, even with sooo many miles I did on my stock alternator. Two years old now, my switch and did my own. The bolts for the new diode are hard to do, but patience gets her done. The components are built better, period, no question. R100/7,'78. I found the same thing from BMW, the original alternator parts are expensive and the Omega was a clear choice for better stuff, less money:). Randy:thumb

Thanks Randy. Sounds like Omega gets a pretty good nod from everyone I've talked to.

Someone suggested EnDuralast (sp) so I researched that. One thing that is very appealing is that they have done away with brushes which makes more sense to me. Looks like the regulator they provide though is a might bigger than the stock (or Omega) ones. Getting pretty tight under my tank.

Any EnDuralast experiences, fans, foes out there?

[04R1150RS]

The omega kit for your bike is on back order right now, I called for one on my "84 G/S, I think 2-3 weeks.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

The omega kit for your bike is on back order right now, I called for one on my "84 G/S, I think 2-3 weeks.

Dang, my neighbor (fellow airhead) just mentioned that might be the case too. I guess he spoke with Rick last week. Anyway, thanks for the heads up. Guess that gives me time to look into the EnDuralast. No brushes would be a nice treat.

[04R1150RS]

I'll be waiting for the Omega, my reasoning being IF it does fail it's components could be replaced w/ stock pieces.
yeah the enduralast w/o brushes seems good to, but I'll be going w/ the Omega.

[tghsmith]

I've run an enduralast for two summers now, through blasting heat and oil cooking traffic jams, very glad to say goodby to brushes and diode boards, battery stays charged for daily comuting that would have reguired putting it on the charger with the stock set up, watts to spare!!!!

[sumran]

From everything I have read, users of both systems seem to be very happy with the results. Snowbum did a comparison of the two systems on his site. If I remeber correctly he concluded the EnDualast produced more power for commuters and the Omega was better suited to longer distances. It is a useful article.

If I understand the technology correctly, the EnDualast system converts the excess energy to heat. Since I ride in Florida, I am not comfortable with additional heat in that area if it can be avoided.

I have high regard for Rick. I would buy the Omega for that reason alone. He has been generous with his time and knowledge, even when there was no profit in it for him. Everyone I have talked with in our community has had similar experiences and it seems to have been his pattern over many years. I want to do what I can to keep someone like that in business.

In fairness, I have never given the EnDuralast sellers an opportunity to be noble. They may be just as willing and able to help.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I've run an enduralast for two summers now, through blasting heat and oil cooking traffic jams, very glad to say goodby to brushes and diode boards, battery stays charged for daily comuting that would have reguired putting it on the charger with the stock set up, watts to spare!!!!

Oh, I didn't catch that this system does away with the diode board. Sounds interesting.

Where did you mount the rectifier on your RS? Also, do you ride in the rain? If so, any issues? I'm just asking because effectively, the EnDuralast rectifier replaces the diode board but their literature states that it needs lots of clean air, so presumably its NOT mounted where the diode board was. Right?

[AnnapolisAirhead]

From everything I have read, users of both systems seem to be very happy with the results. Snowbum did a comparison of the two systems on his site. If I remeber correctly he concluded the EnDualast produced more power for commuters and the Omega was better suited to longer distances. It is a useful article.

If I understand the technology correctly, the EnDualast system converts the excess energy to heat. Since I ride in Florida, I am not comfortable with additional heat in that area if it can be avoided.

I have high regard for Rick. I would buy the Omega for that reason alone. He has been generous with his time and knowledge, even when there was no profit in it for him. Everyone I have talked with in our community has had similar experiences and it seems to have been his pattern over many years. I want to do what I can to keep someone like that in business.

In fairness, I have never given the EnDuralast sellers an opportunity to be noble. They may be just as willing and able to help.

Thanks for the input Randy. Seems like every task I take on, always leads me back to another excellent Snowbum article. The guy is a human Airhead encyclopedia and a gift.

On the heat issue, I hear ya loud and clear. There are a few months in Wash DC that are unbearably hot, especially for an ATGATT rider on an airhead so I'm concerned a little too. Right now I am mostly just commuting, so EnDuralst maybe best.

One interesting suggestion (aside from Rick's outstanding reputation) was that the Omega system would essentially reatin all the basic components such that if you broke down--you could use stock parts to limp to a repair place. Not sure if you could mix some stock parts with some Omega parts though.

I think the EnDuralast guy came from Lucas electronics--love em or hate em, they were (are??) around for a loooong time. It is good to keep the little guys in business, especially in these trouble finanacial waters.

Anyway, your thoughts are much appreciated as always. Thanks. :thumb

[wuli959]

Oh, I didn't catch that this system does away with the diode board. Sounds interesting.

Where did you mount the rectifier on your RS? Also, do you ride in the rain? If so, any issues? I'm just asking because effectively, the EnDuralast rectifier replaces the diode board but their literature states that it needs lots of clean air, so presumably its NOT mounted where the diode board was. Right?

Endurolast installation instructions (http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EnDuraLast%20450%20Alternator%20Installation%20Ins tructions_v7.1.pdf)

[tghsmith]

the rectifier is mounted just behind the left side cover next to the battery, 95+degree riding in stop and go traffic and wide open interstate, early on I checked the temp of the rect. everything was great, the heat in the carolinas isn't much differant than fla. went to the mountains last friday night, my wife with her stock system ran her 55watt hellas most of the way up( three hours)short trips on sat.jumper cables needed to start her bike sunday morning. most likely will swap her system this winter....

[Polarbear]

Better than the stock units anyhow. My Omega transplant was my pick, due to a friend at the BMW shop had done his RS, prior to me. The Omega is exact same tolerances as the stock unit with no alterations. I liked that. Simple is what Airheads are all about:). I know the parts from Omega were built with tougher internals, as the rotor has more surface area for the brushes to generate juice and the windings are indeed much larger too, making them an improvement. The new board was tidy and well done also and it all just looked better than the stock stuff. I did over 300000 miles on my stock alternator, so I have no complaints about the stock unit going FAR. It did indeed. Its now so much better however and I doubt I ever have to do this again and 400w is a pleasure to have. Happy Trails, Randy"Polarbear":thumb :usa

[widebmw]

I don't think that you can mix a stock stator or rotor with the Omega.
They are both a little larger.
To be sure check with Rick/
http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm

[tghsmith]

as for the simple point of view both systems have thier good and bad points, the enduralast gets rid of.
1. rotor brushes (wear)
2. rotor windings(fail)
3. diode board (grounding, failing, mounts, bad placement)
4. charge light( burnt out bulb disables charging system)

you do end up living with other brand parts in your bike( I have all my stock system on the shelf just in case)

[shire2000]

I went thru this last year and installed the Enduralast system. I liked the idea of getting rid of the brushes (less maintenance) as well as the diode board. The mounting of the new regulator under the tank was simple and the heat dissapates quite fine. Have ridden in 100+ F. weather with no ill affects.

Now have lots of power for extra driving lights, heated vest, etc. Have ridden 20K miles with this system this year and so far found it extremely reliable.

:ca

[kbasa]

No I did not take the starter out but to get to the nuts for the solid dioed board mounts you have to take the cover off of the area that the startre is in.
Thats also where the breather hose is. Be carefull if it is old it may crack if you try to remove it.

The backside nut is a 10mm, so I bought one of those little universal joints for my 1/4" drive and stuck a magnet in the socket. It helped quite a bit. Installation was a bit tricky, but again, the swivel joint and magnet made it much easier. No need to remove the starter. The lower right is the difficult one, if I remember right.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

The backside nut is a 10mm, so I bought one of those little universal joints for my 1/4" drive and stuck a magnet in the socket. It helped quite a bit. Installation was a bit tricky, but again, the swivel joint and magnet made it much easier. No need to remove the starter. The lower right is the difficult one, if I remember right.

Great, thanks for the tip. I was just looking at a set of socket magnets.

I asked about removing the starter thinking I might upgrade to Motorrad Elektrik's Nippon-Denso starter at the same time. Keep the old stator, rotor, diode board, regulator, and starter on the just-in-case shelf.

Sheesh, I might as well bead blaster and paint the engine top, valve covers and timing chain cover while I am at it. Oh and the battery tray. Possibly install the push rod tube seals too....this started out as a project to figure out why I stopped charging at 13.2 volts and dropped to 12. Now, side stand rebuild (need to remove exhaust header [ugh], new charging system, 1157 turn signal conversion, custom Steibel installation, outlet for heated clothing, washing machine, welder, shower, etc.

[kbasa]

Great, thanks for the tip. I was just looking at a set of socket magnets.

I asked about removing the starter thinking I might upgrade to Motorrad Elektrik's Nippon-Denso starter at the same time. Keep the old stator, rotor, diode board, regulator, and starter on the just-in-case shelf.

Sheesh, I might as well bead blaster and paint the engine top, valve covers and timing chain cover while I am at it. Oh and the battery tray. Possibly install the push rod tube seals too....this started out as a project to figure out why I stopped charging at 13.2 volts and dropped to 12. Now, side stand rebuild (need to remove , new charging system, 1157 turn signal conversion, custom Steibel installation, outlet for heated clothing, washing machine, welder, shower, etc.

Two words: Scope Creep. :ha

[barryg]

OK, I just say it plain and simple. Ground up restoration, no expense spared. Learn it, love it, live it. :banghead

[The_Veg]

Sounds like ShipFitter's Disease.

[35303]

Instructions for the Enduralast installation are online. It has been trouble free for me for 2 years. It is a permanent magnet alternator, the type used on most current motorcycles.
It has an output at idle of about 100 watts compared to no output from the stock system when the red failure light comes on at idle. Output rises quickly with rpm to estimate of 300 to 400 watts above 3000 rpm.

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EnDuraLast%20450%20Alternator%20Installation%20Ins tructions_v7.1.pdf