?? R80/7 fork removal

[cruisin]

Greetings again from cruisin's R80 continuing saga. So far I've done several things from altering the frame and building a seat from an HD soft-tail pan to calibrating the speedometer. I am in the process now of replacing the fork boots. In the interest of not damaging things along the way I have stopped work for a bit to get advice here. I have the handle bars, brake lines, tire & fender out of the way and have loosened the lower clamp (green arrow in the picture) and also the top nut (red arrow). Actually had the top nut / cap completely off but re-installed it loosely to keep contaminants out while I ask questions. With the cap off and the lower clamp loose, should the fork tube slide out easily or will it need some encouragement. Or have I missed some other retaining device hidden by the fork's upper tube covering that holds the headlight? At this point, it will not rotate nor budge when tapping on the partially threaded cap using a wooden block and rubber mallet. The only manual I have is a PDF version showing the R80GS which looks considerably different in the drawings than what I have pictured.

I also have a question about a piece of PVC pipe discovered when I removed the top cap. It is of sufficient diameter to fit over the internal collar going down into the fork tube and 45mm in length. Any ideas why that would be there and what purpose it might serve?

thanks in advance

[130253]

I just took my fork tubes off and I just twisted and pulled after loosening the clamp and taking the nut and cap off. But I am curious why you are going through that much trouble. Would it not be easier just to take the sliders off and replace the boots from the botton since you already have the tire and fender out of the way? Just curious.

[cruisin]

Yeah, I thought about that too, but with the old drawings in this PDF manual I have I couldn't tell if I would be opening a can-O-worms I didn't want. From those drawings it looks like a whole bunch of little parts and such might be descending upon me if I pulled the bottoms off. Seeing as how the tubes haven't moved yet anyway, I just might give that a go unless someone here knows why I shouldn't.

thanks

[20774]

You probably have to wedge open the lower clamps. After loosening the bolt, find a piece of wood in a wedge shape and drive it into the opening around the perimeter. That should help release things.

As for the PVC, it would appear it's a spacer to add some preload to your fork springs. Looks like the suspension was "tweaked" by a PO.

[Isamemon]

progressive springs for an r80/7 come with a plastic spacer.

[cruisin]

only place to "wedge" anything in is at the gap of the clamp. there is less than paper-thin gap around the perimeter. I have already used a large prying type of screw-driver to separate the clamp to about double the gap where it started. I'm prolly done for the evening and left the top end with some WD-40 soaking to loosen things up by morning. If the tops of the tubes still don't move by then and no one offers up a really good reason to not do as 130253 suggests, I may just back up and give it a shot from the bottom end.

[krehmkej]

+1 on just puling the sliders off from the bottom. This would save (possible) alignment issues, plus not having to disturb the turn signal wiring that's run through the headlight "ears"

[cruisin]

can anyone offer up a procedure here. like remove the big nut but leave another alone, etc. That PDF manual is really hard to follow.

[130253]

Yeah, I thought about that too, but with the old drawings in this PDF manual I have I couldn't tell if I would be opening a can-O-worms I didn't want. From those drawings it looks like a whole bunch of little parts and such might be descending upon me if I pulled the bottoms off. Seeing as how the tubes haven't moved yet anyway, I just might give that a go unless someone here knows why I shouldn't.

thanks

I had the same worry when I started working on my front end. You are seeing a exploded view of all the components. It is actually quite simple.
On the bottom of the slider is a rubber cap. Remove. (could be a small screw cap)
You will see a nut and threaded plug which is the lower end of the damper rod. Install a socket onto the the nut and insert a Allen wrench through the socket, into the threaded plug. Hold the Allen wrench and loosen and remove the nut and washer. Some grind 2 flat spots on the sides of the socket so that it will accept an open end wrench to make turning the socket easier. I use channel locks. If you have disconnected the boot from the slider, the slider will come right off. Just remember to place a container under the forks to catch the oil that is going to pour our of the bottom of the slider. No little parts will come out. Thats it. Hopefully you will only have to refill the tubes with fork oil after putting back together.

Now, if there is all sorts of crud in the oil, and the oil is nasty, then it could be the bushing at the bottom of the slider has deteriorated. Your bike is 30 yr old and it is a possibility. In which case you will more than likely need to take the fork tubes off to get to the damper to clean it all out. Hope this helps.

[cruisin]

That helps a bunch, thank you very much. :thumb :thumb

[cruisin]

:thumb :thumb

OK, the top ends still would only move about a 1/4" after having WD-40 on them overnight. I have now successfully pulled the bottom sliders off without much effort. Will reassemble with new oil & the new boots after breakfast. Any recommendations on the best / easiest /safest way to get those tops back up to their proper position?

and thanks again for the help / gonna take her out for a little spin once she is all back together again. :dance

[krehmkej]

If they were mine, I would use a dead blow hammer and tap them back into place. YMMV, however.

[jforgo]

You really did not need to undo the fork tubes in the triple clamps in order to change the boots. However, now that you have done so, and you will have to realign everything anyway, you might as well clean and relube and readjust your steering head bearings. I have only found one bike where this was not sadly neglected.

I assume you are replacing the fork seals. If you are using the little rubber boots which sit on the top of the sliders, there are little felt strips in there - these get cruddy and ought to be changed as well.

Take the springs out, and leave the caps off. For dust control, I use wadded up plastic wrap - shove a ball in just enough to stay in there. The caps in fact are one of the last things you put back on. The reason for this is, after you get the tubes back in position with regards to the lower triple tree (equal protrusion below) and the upper back on, you will want to move the reasembled and reoiled sliderassmbly up and down, to check for binding, as you realign each level. There are excellent threads about this procedure by using advanced search.

As to the plastic spacers, you have to decide. If there was too much springiness, you might want to decrease the length - vice versa if it was too mushy. Or leave that alone if you were OK with how it was.

[bikerfish1100]

can anyone offer up a procedure here. like remove the big nut but leave another alone, etc. That PDF manual is really hard to follow.

Step 1 of Correct Procedure...
http://www.amazon.com/CLYMER-MANUAL-BMW-70-96-M5023/dp/B000GZX312/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1222711091&sr=8-6
Step 2 of Correct Procedure...
complete checkout.
Step 3 of Correct Procedure...
wait, should only be a few days.

sounds like once you've got a good bible in your hands, you will do fine.

[cruisin]

While I truly appreciate the additional input, by the time the last two posts were up I had it all back together and had ridden several miles. I was able to get the tubes to suck back up using the top cap while my bro tapped lightly on the bottom with a rubber mallet. Worked beautifully and the alignment seemed like a non-issue once the fender and wheel were back in place. Snugged the wheel up first, then the fender bolts and lastly the pinch bolts on the headlight brackets then the bottom pinch bolts on the axle.

She's running great and my bro and I had a great time with him still in the learning phase on my 250 Rebel. He's 57 years old and just now getting the bug; this is his 4th time to come over and ride. I took him around the neighborhood several times mixing up left and right turns and what few curves we have and observing that he stayed upright when gravel was present and honking every time he left his turn signals on. (the Fiamms on the 80 caused him to flinch a few times). Then we drove over to an area where the road twists and turns its way down to a boat ramp. He said he was a bit scared the first time through but after that he was unable to wipe the grin off his face. He's beginning to understand why little bro loves his motorcycles so much. Me thinks I have unleashed a brand new motorcycle junkie. :whistle

[bikerfish1100]

has big bro taken an MSF BRC class yet? if not, and you love him, help him make that good decision!

[cruisin]

He is saving his money to do so, meanwhile, I am teaching him everything I can following David Hough's teachings as closely as possible. Neither of us is overflowing with money right now and while the cost of the classes may seem trivial to some, it is a pretty big deal to us. He works for himself painting houses and I have just had to take a job that results in a $9K/yr cut in pay for me. I fully realize the great benefits of the class, so please no lectures about "it's worth the cost no matter how much". The other side of that coin is that there are those people who have never taken the class and done quite well; I am a living, breathing example with 320K miles and counting without an accident on the street. I do agree that the classes are a very wise way to start someone out but they are not the end-all of becoming a safe and skilled rider. I am a firm believer that a responsible person can learn it safely if learning from another responsible person who truly cares about their well being as in this case. I also believe that one should never stop the learning and that's why I started reading Hough upon my return to biking after a 20-year hiatus in April of 2000, and I continue to read and practice those teachings every chance I get.