View Full Version : proper tie down technique when trailering
cuervo2274
09-22-2008, 12:33 PM
Hello,
Can someone post pics on the proper way to tie down a motorcycle on a trailer or in back of a pick up?
Thanks,
PGlaves
09-22-2008, 02:16 PM
That depends a bit on the bike model.
Avoid using the handlebars.
Tie to the forks above the lower fork brace/bridge.
Tie down the rear wheel/tire and let the suspension float.
dancogan
09-22-2008, 05:58 PM
Here's a link to an article from A&S:
www.ascycles.com/pdf/Tiedown2.pdf
It agrees (of course) with Paul's advice.
PGlaves
09-22-2008, 06:39 PM
Here's a link to an article from A&S:
www.ascycles.com/pdf/Tiedown2.pdf
It agrees (of course) with Paul's advice.
The one error in that article is that it refers to "compressing the suspension" which it obviously can't because it shows the straps attached below the suspension. They meant compressing the tire of course. But if you ignore that little error it is an excellent article.
BubbaZanetti
09-22-2008, 07:04 PM
if someone could tell me, what is the advantage of not loading the rear suspension? i understand it's not necessary and loading the bike's front suspension does an adequate job of holding the bike down, but i would think the bike might be just a little more stable with the straps higher up on the back of the bike.
i towed a bike twice a week across brooklyn all summer on a little trailer and always strapped it across the back seat, but it was just a little gz 250 and it was quicker and easier than fishing the tie-down through the rear tire.
PGlaves
09-22-2008, 08:03 PM
I just tie the rear wheel and tire down. I do this for several related reasons.
The bike suspension is fully capable of supporting the bike and just letting it float on its suspension. Jars to the suspension while on the trailer are almost always less than they would be if the bike were being ridden down the same road.
When the trailer hits bumps and the rear of the bike bounces the straps can slacken and then slam tight on rebound. This poses stresses that the tie down points might not be designed to take. This isn't an issue if you just throw a tie down over the seat - but then you don't have good control of the sideways position of the bike. Straps can even break when stressed this way - if not really good straps. I have had the hooks on straps actually come loose when the strap slackened. Not too big a deal at the rear - the back end can scoot over and will when held by a strap on one side only - but this also isn't a huge deal unless you have two bikes side by side on the trailer. It is a huge deal if a front tie down comes loose because the suspension bounced and the strap slackened. I almost pitched a K75S off the trailer once but had double tie downs at the front. When one started flying around I stopped and reattached it. Disclaimer: I was trailering the bike because I had just bought it in Houston with a bad transmission.
If you do strap so as to pull down on the suspension, then close off the hooks at both ends with a couple of wraps of duct tape so the hook can't disengage - or - especially at the bottom end use closed loop chain repair links - the kind with a little nut that threads and closes the open spot in the loop. Then use tape at the top.
So in my opinion there is a downside risk and no upside benefit compared to just tying down the rear wheel - so that is what I do, and what I recommend.
YMMV
BubbaZanetti
09-22-2008, 09:55 PM
thank paul, makes total sense, i had the strap on the back come off a few times, that explains it. i think i assumed that if the suspension was compressed all the way then the bike wouldn't move up and down at all.
leeines
09-22-2008, 11:42 PM
I wish I had seen this article from A & S prior to leaving AZ for a trip to AK this summer with my R1200 GSA on a lift on the rear of a motorhome.
I was advised to tie down using the crash bars. Really BAD MOVE! As a result one of the bar attachments broke and I almost lost the bike. I then used four tie downs on the front forks and two on the rear sub frame. The tie downs went through four "soft-ties" that I purchased at a motorcycle shop in order to eliminate the chance the tie down straps would chafe the parts they were tied to. I used rachet tie downs with 1-1/4" width straps and had both hooks attached to the lift. On a stretch from Glen Allen to Tok, AK, only going 45 MPH maximum due to the frost heaves in the pavement, all six straps broke. The bike did not fall off the lift but did lay down. Very minor damage as in a few scratches to the tupper ware. Four really nice H-D riders came along and helped me get the bike upright again. Thank God the bike did not come off the lift and hit someone causing a serious accident. Next, I purchased four heavy duty rachet tie downs with strapping about 2" wide. I anchor two to the front forks, compressing the suspension quite a bit and two to the rear subframe, again compressing the suspension. The bike does not "jump" at all on the lift track. Had no trouble at all all the way back to "South America" as the Alaskans call the lower 48. Why didn't I ride the bike to AK? Boss Lady refused to ride that many thousands of miles in the dust, rain, etc. through Canada and AK. If Momma is not happy no one is happy! You guys who are married and comfortable in their manliness and do not need to show how "macho" you are will understand.
I am unaware of what damage might be caused by compressing the suspension. The springs and the shocks are compressed and not moving. What will that hurt.?If the bike moves, even on it's suspension, it stresses the heck out of the straps and they may break, or the hooks may break from the sudden stops and "snapping". My way seems to cancel those problems.
Comments?
Thanks in advance,
leeines[/QUOTE]
dancogan
09-23-2008, 07:16 AM
The one error in that article is that it refers to "compressing the suspension" which it obviously can't because it shows the straps attached below the suspension. They meant compressing the tire of course. But if you ignore that little error it is an excellent article.
Thanks, Paul. I'll try to remember that correction for the next time I go to that article.
R100RS
09-23-2008, 07:24 AM
I suggest you learn a few knots really well and ditch the hooked ratchet straps. You can get things tighter with rope and there is no concern with hooks getting bent or loose.
Vagabird
09-23-2008, 08:13 AM
I trailer my bike to service and last February trailered it to Las Cruces NM so I could ride to Key West without worrying about all the snow in Wyoming and Colorado. No problems.
Here's how I tie it down:
<img src="http://vagabird.smugmug.com/photos/378699471_cdpkq-L.jpg" width="800" height="600">
I fasten the front to the forks just above the triple tree. (Be careful not to snag a brake line or something.)
<img src="http://vagabird.smugmug.com/photos/378699302_cMc5H-L.jpg" width="800" height="600">
I fasten the back to the subframe. Once everything is in place, I sit on the bike while holding both back straps and wiggle back and forth, pulling on the straps. That snugs the back suspension down. If I get them tight enough, the bike rides the bumps without incident.
<img src="http://vagabird.smugmug.com/photos/378699413_McFBg-L.jpg" width="800" height="600">
This works for me. I hope it is helpful. :D
BTW: I don't like the idea of tying the bike down by its wheels becasue I don't think the wheels are designed for that type of stress.
leeines
09-23-2008, 11:13 AM
I should have stated that I loop the front tie down rachet straps over the telelever for the front suspension.
PGlaves
09-23-2008, 12:31 PM
BTW: I don't like the idea of tying the bike down by its wheels becasue I don't think the wheels are designed for that type of stress.
We will just have to disagree on this one.
My rationale is that the bike is held upright and forward by the front tie downs. I use two sets there for redundancy.
At the rear the weight of the bike is resting on the wheel - pretty normal.
I simply want to keep the rear wheel from bouncing or scooting sideways so the bike stays straight. So I use a wrap around the rear wheel/tire to loops right beside the tire in the trailer bed.
So ... what are those excessive stresses this imposes on the wheel?
cuervo2274
09-23-2008, 01:05 PM
Thanks everyone!
Vagabird
09-23-2008, 02:07 PM
We will just have to disagree on this one.
My rationale is that the bike is held upright and forward by the front tie downs. I use two sets there for redundancy.
At the rear the weight of the bike is resting on the wheel - pretty normal.
I simply want to keep the rear wheel from bouncing or scooting sideways so the bike stays straight. So I use a wrap around the rear wheel/tire to loops right beside the tire in the trailer bed.
So ... what are those excessive stresses this imposes on the wheel?
I could be wrong, but I figure that the wheels are not designed to be held rigid while the weight of the bike bounces around all over the place, up and down and side-to-side above them - that this puts twisting motion on the axle and wheel.
Perhaps I'm overly cautious, but the condition of the wheels are vital to the safety of the bike's operation and they are expensive. I'd rather not chance it when there are effective alternatives.
Long ago I gave up any idea of eliminating all the stupid, thoughtless, careless and foolish things I do. At this point I just try to keep them as infrequent as possible. :whistle Call me a wimp.
108625
09-23-2008, 05:21 PM
I modified an old trailer, mainly to haul our dirt bikes, but have used it for street bikes too. A few of my stateside military trips took me places where I could still ride in the wintertime, so I'd put a street bike and a dirtbike on it and take them both with me.
As far as tying down the rear, with multiple bikes it's a neccessity, or they'll bounce into each other. It also affords a little extra peace of mind on two counts:
1. If I have an accident, the bike is less likely to become airborne and dangerous.
2. It makes it a little more difficult to steal...I'm away from home, remember?
I tie down the front as usual, and simply wrap a heavy cable lock around the trailer rail and through the rear rim. It's snug enough to secure the rear of the bike but not so tight as to damage anything.
I also make it a point to check my front tie downs everytime I stop for gas or food, etc.
Bob
indycar
11-24-2008, 09:46 PM
The one error in that article is that it refers to "compressing the suspension" which it obviously can't because it shows the straps attached below the suspension. They meant compressing the tire of course. But if you ignore that little error it is an excellent article.
Just to be clear here Paul, you're referring to the front, correct? Sorry - I'm being anal here - picking up my bike, and it will be the first time I've trailered a bike. So there is no compressing of the suspension on either end, correct?
Don't want to have any problems . . . the seller is tossing in his old trailer .. .. leaving late tomorrow to arrive first thing Wed, doing the deed, then heading back right on back. Gotta keep those wheels a rollin' . . .
JanMiller
11-25-2008, 09:11 AM
Sadly, I have 2 pics from this past summer, both related to Fuel Pump Failure.
This one is the 'right' way, or the way I vastly prefer. I angle the front wheel into the corner, tie from the handlebars (difficult on an RT, be careful of the fairing) and put enough tension on to compress the forks a bit. The rest of the straps stabilize the beast. On the RT, I used a sling with loops on each end for the handlebars, wound it several times around the left grip and put the tie-down hooks in the loop at the end, used padding to keep it off the fairing on one side. Don't have any detail pics. The right side, I was able to snake up through to the lower fork mount.
On a ferry trip, I used the sling across both grips, much like the Canyon Dancer strap, which is designed for this.
I was concerned about the heated grips and the strength of the handlebars, so just a bit of compression was put on the front forks. In the past I've always cranked the forks down quite a bit, but wasn't sure that that would not damage the heaters in the grips. I retrospect, I think that tying off just above the lower triple-tree as shown in the .pdf would be fine, as I've done on the right side. I've always just stabilized the rear, and it seems IMHO that tying off the rear wheel to prevent it from hopping around would be sufficient.
JanMiller
11-25-2008, 09:14 AM
Sadly, I have 2 pics from this past summer, both related to Fuel Pump Failure.
This one is the 'right' way, or the way I vastly prefer. I angle the front wheel into the corner, tie from the handlebars (difficult on an RT, be careful of the fairing) and put enough tension on to compress the forks a bit. The rest of the straps stabilize the beast. On the RT, I used a sling with loops on each end for the handlebars, wound it several times around the left grip and put the tie-down hooks in the loop at the end, used padding to keep it off the fairing on one side. Don't have any detail pics. The right side, I was able to snake up through to the lower fork mount.
On a ferry trip, I used the sling across both grips, much like the Canyon Dancer strap, which is designed for this.
Other side!
JanMiller
11-25-2008, 09:17 AM
Second time the FP quit, I was 'in the middle of nowhere' with the guys I ride with on Wednesday nights. Bob was able to borrow this trailer from a friend. I damn near died when I saw it, no sides! But, with enough straps, we were able to secure the RT. The main thing was to stablize it side to side, by going off the handlebars and across the seat, and fore and aft by tying off to the wheels. An a Very Slow Trip Home, about 60 miles!
Only BMW in the group, so.... you can imagine this is a popular event to bring up.. again and again and again...
Oznay
11-25-2008, 01:02 PM
A tight squeeze,but my buddy hauled my Bumblebeemer back to his place in Saskatoon,700 miles,nary a scratch..
indycar
11-25-2008, 02:06 PM
I damn near died when I saw it, no sides! But, with enough straps, we were able to secure the RT.
Thanks. You'd get a kick out of the trailer I'm going to be using. From a few riders I know, they say it's good. . . at least from the pics.
Will post pics when I get back
Yea Ozney - that IS a tight squeeze
kantuckid
11-26-2008, 09:47 AM
Help!I tried to use the A&S link and it will not load onto my computer? I went to their website and cannot find the link there either? I ride a R1150R and want to be certain that I'm using the best possible tie down technique when I move it closer to Mexico soon. Thanks
indycar
11-29-2008, 08:51 PM
Help!I tried to use the A&S link and it will not load onto my computer? I went to their website and cannot find the link there either? I ride a R1150R and want to be certain that I'm using the best possible tie down technique when I move it closer to Mexico soon. Thanks
If your still having problems, PM me your email address and I'll send you the PDF file.
thompsonr
11-30-2008, 09:30 AM
Just returned home with my new to me R1100RT. 500 miles and no trouble with tie down method. One of the keys for me was the wheel chock from Harbor Freight at a cost of around $40. Made a great difference.
I tied down from front forks and rear rails. The Canyon Dancers were on but just tight enough to stay on. They were safety nets incase the fork ties would break in hopes they would catch the bike and keep it up till I could stop.
The only problem was all the extra strap that needed to be tied up.
Its been snowing cold and wet since I got home with my new toy..............
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