i cant change my oil....please help !

[fabiox]

:wow Sorry I feel embarrassed but I need to talk about.
I went to change the oil of my airhead RT 94 naked for a very first time 2 days ago and it was a great experience but I made a couple mistakes like over fill and over tight the plug
I rode 200miles since and the machine sounds fine but I am worries about what damage could cause over fill the engine and how I am gong to open this plug for a next oil change ?:wow

[fabiox]

Do I need to open the oil pan?:banghead

[Petrodog]

From the looks of it - I would use the appropriately sized E-Z-OUT or pipe nipple extractor extractor. Believe that Sears and most harware stores carry them. There are various types - if tapped into the hole firmly to insure good grip they should be able to break out the damaged plug.
The square type is my personal favorite.

Here is a link to The Art of Extraction which may prove useful:

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/may2003/techtotech.htm

Obviously you will need to replace the damaged plug.

Good luck;

Petrodog -

[skiteach]

I have had some luck with using Torx bits. I find the most close fit and tap ie in with a hammer. I think that the corners on the Torx may bite into the partially stripped hex, maybe reshaping a little, Good Luck!

[cruisin]

The torx bit is a good idea and here's little trick I used when removing an allen head with a torx bit. Find a size torx that is slightly larger than the allen head, take a Dremel type moto tool and cut the corners (and maybe sides too), of the hex bolt out so the torx gets a good fit, then take the damaged bolt out.

[108625]

Your first mistake was trying to change it naked, no wonder you're embarrassed!

Seriously, how much do you think you over filled it?
Way too high an oil level can cause damage, in any engine. If it's high enough, the rotating crank shaft (or cam in the case of your beemer) will whip the surface of the oil in the sump and cause it to froth up. If the air bubbles get drawn into the pump, it's called "cavitation" meaning instead of oil, you're trying to pump air through your engine, resulting in blockages to individual components or total oil starvation. If this happens at speed at high RPM, you might just damage your engine, but crash if it seizes up abruptly.
Just to play it safe, I wouldn't ride it again until you fix it.

Bob
P.S. If all else fails and you are forced to drill it out, I'd remove the pan so you don't get any metal shavings in it.

[OHScot]

Had some luck forcing a feeler gage and some valve grind compound into the drain plug with the tool. Otherwise pull the pan drill and easyout or try to beat it loose with a punch. Good luck. I hate it when simple stuff bites.

[88bmwJeff]

Like OHScott said, I would try the valve grinding compound first. It might be a little tight, but as long as you didn't over tighten it too much to strip the threads, I think you'll be OK.

[amiles]

If you feel the need to remove some oil, most auto parts stores and tool shops have pumps that you could use to remove some oil via the dipstick opening.

If you can get the oil level to a satisfactory level, I would wait until you have the new plug in hand before you attack the old.

[crazydrummerdude]

I would try anything but EZ-outs. I've never once had those work on anything. The tip just breaks off, and you're stuck with an even bigger problem.

[RJM2096]

I have occasionally overfilled a vehicle. I just remove the plug, catch the oil in a large Tupperware bowl for a few seconds, and immediately put the plug back in.

How can a plug be rounded out unless you used the wrong size allen wrench or did not have it all the way in?

While the edges look rounded, I bet if you pounded in the correct wrench size it would work. Invest in a socket set of allen wrenches.

If all else fails, I have removed a rounded out drain plug with a pipewrench (good teeth on the grips) by just grabbing on the edges of the plug. If that works for sure you will need a new drain plug as the pipe wrench will crush the flanges.

If that fails, you could grind off the flange until you hit the gasket. It is the flange and gasket that holds it tight, not the threads.

Avoid removing the oil pan....A bolt may break off and you will need to drill that out. Steel and aluminum don't mix. Corrosion leads to frozen threads on bolts.

[PGlaves]

Getting the oil out is the easy part.

Getting the plug out for the next change is essential anyway.

I have had good luck with "impact" type (black usually) torx bits. I find the one slightly bigger than the rounded hex - drive it in and turn the plug or bolt out.

A good set of straight fluted Hansen extractors works even better - sharper and harder.

Buy a new plug before you start this project so you can button it up right.

And - use a new crush washer. You can feel it crush and it is much easier not to leave the plug too loose or get it too tight with a new crush washer.

And finally, I install all drain and fill plugs using a 3/8" drive ratchet with a 4 inch long handle.

[BuddingGeezer]

Which ever type extractor you use, ezeout, torx or what ever if you can use an impact wrench like a 3/8 drive. The tapps will loosen the plug easier than a straight pull as with a ratchet.

If you can' find an extractor you can take a dremmel tool and cut straight across the plug and use a flat screwdriver, that's what I do when I strip a phillips head.

Ralph Sims

[Rich]

Buy yourself a good torque wrench before you do anything!!

[amiles]

I just remembered...in some cases when a metric allen socket loosens up too much to work with the proper sized wrench, SOMETIMES you will be able to use a fractional (SAE) size that works out to be just a little bit larger than the metric one making a usable fit.

This also can work SAE to metric, but that is not the issue here.

[DarkCloud]

Heat, cool and tap on the drain plug. If everything else fails, you can weld the correct sized hex key into the drain plug. If you don't have access to a welder, try using JB Weld on hex key socket. You'll have to rig a jig up to keep the socket secure whilst the JB Weld sets up.

[Paul_F]

I just remembered...in some cases when a metric allen socket loosens up too much to work with the proper sized wrench, SOMETIMES you will be able to use a fractional (SAE) size that works out to be just a little bit larger than the metric one making a usable fit.

That worked for me once with the transmission oil filler cap. I tapped in the slighter larger SAE Allen key and presto, it undid the bolt with no difficulty.

[rinty]

Fabiox:

You might want to ask your local airhead specialist to see if they can loosen and re-torque it for you while you wait. He'd probably see it as something simple; and could throw in a new plug / washer at the same time.

Rinty