anyone ever replaced an intake manifold?

[gossamerjohn]

Hi all. I'm doing a top-end overhaul on my R60/6. When I pulled the heads I noticed one of the intake manifolds has a small gap in it. I think it might be that it's not tightened into the head all the way down, but I may end up needing to replace it.

Has anyone ever done this? This is the kind of intake with two notches (about 1/8
" wide) the carb sleeve slides over the intake manifold stub. It doesn't use a rubber hose to connect the two. From what I can tell the intake manifold threads into the head.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b61/augusthour/P1000717.jpg

Does anyone have any experience with this? What tool did you use? Was there a thread lock compound? any Torque values?


Thanks for any input. Much appreciated.

[barryg]

R60/6 is somewhat of a rare bird. Parts fiche shows 2 internal pieces sealing up the the carb to the head. 17. 13 11 1 255 974 insulating washer 18. 13 11 1 255 975 insulating bushing. If these parts are good carb should seal to head if bad they need to be replaced. These clamp to the head intake spigot.

[gossamerjohn]

the parts on the carb are fine. It's the head "intake spigot" I'm talking about replacing.

On the fiche it's called "Intake Manifold" part no. 11121251598

[barryg]

Gotcha, Will it screw out. I belive their threaded. I've done a bunch of heads for BMW twins and I have never had a problem with the intake spigot, but their's allways a first. It's been awhile since I've done head work for a living. If the spigot will not seat up in the head properly then there is a good chance U will get air leaks and the bike will not be tunable thats obvious. Are U doing the overhaul on the heads or farming it out. I have a R50/5 and now that I think about I believe the spigot on mine got loose and I had to screw it back in. I think I used a small pipewrench with some aluminum pieces I made up to keep the wrench from maring the outside of the spigot. That was probably 20 years ago, how time flies. Tighend it up and haven't a problem since, I've been riding the bike quite a bit this summer. Good luck with your project.

[PGlaves]

They screw in (and out).

I don't think they had any thread lock, but can't say for sure.

[woodgrain]

I had the same problem with my R60/5. If you want to do it the cheap and cheerful way, tighten the spigots as well as you can, then use RED Locktite. Squeeze the Locktite into the mating surface of the head and spigot and then start the engine. If you're really brave you could use some on the threads before you tighten things down.(not recommended)The vacuum of the running engine will draw the Locktite into the joint and seal things up nicely. 182,000 miles and still holding.

Woodgrain

[PGlaves]

I had the same problem with my R60/5. If you want to do it the cheap and cheerful way, tighten the spigots as well as you can, then use RED Locktite. Squeeze the Locktite into the mating surface of the head and spigot and then start the engine. If you're really brave you could use some on the threads before you tighten things down.(not recommended)The vacuum of the running engine will draw the Locktite into the joint and seal things up nicely. 182,000 miles and still holding.

Woodgrain

Using Green "wicking" Loctite would probably work even better since it is designed to wick into and lock threads already tightened.