"84 G/S newly aguired and freshen up time

[04R1150RS]

Just got this 94,000 mile young 1984 G/S and of course she needs some attention. First on the list was to put in a "new" to it wiring harness, front EBC pads (evacuated the brake MC), then pull off the rear sub frame and brackets for powder coating, along w/ the exhaust for ceramic coating. I'll up date pictures as I go. So far i've removed and replaced the angle irons used for light bars and painted them (not on the bike yet), plus rewired the lights (soldiered all connections). Still waiting for the exhaust to be finished.

This is the before picture

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2749-40.jpg

This weekend I removed the tranny for a spline lube, the shafts look good, a little brass in the oil (??). Cleaned up the swing arm, drive shaft oil was brown!!!, cleaned outside of tranny, and installed a newly powder coated bits-air filter box (the old paint was flaking off real bad), starter cover, rear sub frame, rear racks.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2756-50.jpg
The after everything was put back on the tank was buffed some, rims have also been polished. So here it is at the end of toady

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2762-50.jpg

[GSTom]

Very sweet! Have you taken it for a ride? More pics, please. These are classic bikes.

[04R1150RS]

I've ridden it about 150 miles before taking the rear sub frame off, she shifts well and runs very good. Surprising how well she runs and shifts, but not to leave well enough alone, had to do a little cleanup and check things out. The tranny splines appear to be chrome plated, I believe this is right, but I was paranoid about the splines, and since the sub frame was off.......well you know how it goes.

When I get the exhaust nuts from BMW (one had to be cut off and the threads straightened up with a thread file), the ceramic coated pipes can go on. The only thing left for short term, will be to clean the inside of the forks and install new seals and gators, plus drop the oil pan to inspect for sludge and make sure the oil pickup is still connected.

Long term, i.e., this winter will be to install new timing gears and chain, pull the cylinders to replace the push rod seals and while I'm at it pull the cylinders replated w/ nickasill, install new rod bearings and rings.

Very long term plans for the bike...hopefully next summer a trip to Alaska????!!! It came w/ a larger tank from a R100 (6 gal??)

[barryg]

I see a tank behind the bike, looks like a R100R tank, is that the tank? I have a R80ST and I have a R100GS tank I plan to add when I put that bike back together. I think it has a 5.5 gallon capacity, I think the stocker holds about 4 gallons. U have a nice project going.

[ant0n10]

Very nice cleanup! You've motivated me to polish my rims :laugh

Stock tank *looks* like an R65 tank, but is slightly different in that it has subtle knee indents. Listed capacity is 5.1 gal. Correct replacement tank would be the 32L Paris-Dakar tank at almost 9gal.

I have both. The PD carries the weight very low and was surprisingly not the pig I expected. It is wider however, and I prefer the stock tank for dirt/offroad.

[ant0n10]

It looks like you have the stock grey Bosch coil. Look carefully for fine cracks running llongitudinally. It's rare to find one that isn't cracked. If so, you may want to consider a replacement (I recommend Dynacoil) before you get stranded in the rain.

Don't ask me how I know :cry

[04R1150RS]

Anton, thanks I'll check for cracks.

BTW I used Mothers aluminum polish on the rims with a buffer wheel on an angle grinder for the outer section then olde elbow grease on the inner. It takes a little while but it's amazing how well they polish up. Look at the first picture then the last one for a comparison.

Was able to drop the oil pan and inspect for sludge, this was done because the bike has a lot of miles and while I was told the PO changed oil religiously I had to check, better safe than sorry. All looked good, plus the oil pickup was tight, don't forget the oil screen needs to be cleaned.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2763-30.jpg


Now that the bottom end is buttoned up, look at the ceramic coated head pipe. The right exhaust nut had to be split to remove, then the threads chased w/ a thread file.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2767-50.jpg

If you notice in the 1st picture the mirrors were chipped up and hand guards were chaulky. Mirrors were sanded and painted w/ satin black, the hand guards were sanded and painted w/ black bumper paint.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2770-50.jpg

last shot is of the Sito exhaust which was also ceramic coated.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2768-50.jpg

Next things to do are- new progressive fork springs ($69) and seals, then timing gears and chain, and lastly the pushrod seals.

[Solo_Lobo]

I'd say to skip the progressive springs and add Racetech cartridge emulators that use the stock springs... It's a great combination and works very well on my '81 G/S!

[108625]

I'm curious about the ceramic coated head pipes. How long have they been on there, and how have they held up to gravel chips and such? I understand you can only answer based on what the previous owner has told you about the bike's history.

Bob

[04R1150RS]

I'll have to get back w/ you on the ceramic coating as it's just been done, only about 150 miles on pavement.

Hpw much for the Racetech cartridge emulators, and any machining needed

[04R1150RS]

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2773-50.jpg

Here's one of the latest modifications for the R80 G/S, as there was no muffler guard I made this out of 5/16" rod and some flat bars. About $15 in steel just need to paint

[snoobar]

Great bike and great process thread!!

i would love one of these steeds or an ST

[rpeckham136133]

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2773-50.jpg

Here's one of the latest modifications for the R80 G/S, as there was no muffler guard I made this out of 5/16" rod and some flat bars. About $15 in steel just need to paint


I like! Good idea, nicely done.

[ELFINKO]

I notice your wind screen. Is that a the Deflector Screen by National Cycle? It looks like it belongs on the bike. I'm looking for a screen for my '81 G/S and this one looks like it will fit the bill.

Brian

[04R1150RS]

It's a national cycle street shield, 19.5" tall. It's adjustable and fits around the head light well, don't know how much it cost or anything.

Here's a better shot.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2774-50.jpg

[04R1150RS]

Here is the final photo of the muffler guard, I closed off the ends of the three bars.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2775-50.jpg

[108625]

Nice job.

Where you inspired by your Triumph? I used to have a high piped '71 TR6C with a similar barbeque grill looking heat shield on it.

Bob

[04R1150RS]

well, a little by the T100C, but it's got low pipes on it now. Just the easiest and cheapest option for me.

[beemerguru]

Also time to plug or remove the BMW emmissions system...the pipes that come from the airbox to the lower front of the heads...and the valves inside the airbox.

Take a look at your heads the next time you check the valves..is the front half of the head a golden brown while the rear still a clean aluminum? If so, the engine has run lean for a long time mainly because of this attempt by BMW to meet emissions standards back then. Most dealers sell a kit to plug the holes left when this comes off.

The result of not cleaning this up is the much earlier onset of sinking valve seats from overheating.

[04R1150RS]

BY any chance do you have a BMW part # for that. As I cann't find it on the fiche.

Thanks

[barryg]

Love what yo've done with your G/S, wouldn't change a thing. I really dig the muffler guard. :thumb

[04R1150RS]

Since the driving lights glare from the top a visor was made out of sheet metal and added to the top, sure is better than electrical tape, also tried painting the top w/ black paint but the light shinned through.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2778-50.jpg

Also I couldn't resist adding my personal plate frame to the bike.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2779-50.jpg

[04R1150RS]

Update on the G/S project-

1) I've installed fork seals, Gold Valve emulators, had to shorten the springs about 1 inch, still waiting for the AL washers for the drain plugs, before the forks go back on. Race Tech recommended 15w oil.

2) removed the air injection tubing, used R1150RS oil drain plugs and red lock tight to plug the holes. The pulled the valves out of the airbox and used the TDC inspection plug to fill the holes in the air box along w/ a little weather strip addheasive, still need to plug the hole at the front of the air box and some rubber plugs at each carb.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2837-40.jpg

3) removed the timing cover to inspect timing gears, they LOOKED REAL GOOD, for 95,000 miles, just replaced the timing tensioners.

4) took the timing cover to be powder coated.
5) Returned the speedo to Palo Alto to recalibrate as the calibration for the 120 mph face was off by 5 mph.

[sumran]

Update on the G/S project-

1) I've installed fork seals, Gold Valve emulators, had to shorten the springs about 1 inch, still waiting for the AL washers for the drain plugs, before the forks go back on. Race Tech recommended 15w oil.

2) removed the air injection tubing, used R1150RS oil drain plugs and red lock tight to plug the holes. The pulled the valves out of the airbox and used the TDC inspection plug to fill the holes in the air box along w/ a little weather strip addheasive, still need to plug the hole at the front of the air box and some rubber plugs at each carb.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2837-40.jpg

3) removed the timing cover to inspect timing gears, they LOOKED REAL GOOD, for 95,000 miles, just replaced the timing tensioners.

4) took the timing cover to be powder coated.
5) Returned the speedo to Palo Alto to recalibrate as the calibration for the 120 mph face was off by 5 mph.

Bike looks super and you are clearly taking great care in getting things right.:thumb

Did you replace the timing chain? If it has never been done and you have 95,000 miles, I would do it while you are in there.

I would advise against the rubber plugs on the carb vacuum ports. They vanish quietly. A screw with a fiber washer and a touch of blue loctite is a better solution. I used a 6/32" stainless from Home Depot. It was readily available and I had a tap to thread the inside surface of the port. A metric version would be more proper.

[Solo_Lobo]

THe racetech recomendation of 15wt oil is for street bikes... if you are looking for more plush, and dirt worthy performance go lighter... I have 10wt in mine now and will be changing for 7.5 this winter....

Also, the starting point of 2 turns or pre-load is a bit firm for my tastes and I am currently running 1.25 turns... that might have to change when I go with lighter oil and cut my springs a bit...

[04R1150RS]

I'm not sure if the chain has been done, the gears look so good I may assume it's been replaced. Since I'm not doing the gears I don't want to do the chain, new chain old gears???

Thanks for the input, also the idea for the plug on the carbs

[sumran]

I'm not sure if the chain has been done, the gears look so good I may assume it's been replaced. Since I'm not doing the gears I don't want to do the chain, new chain old gears???

Thanks for the input, also the idea for the plug on the carbs

I am sure there are different ideas out there. I would expect to change the chain every 75k and the crank gear at the second timing chain change. I would not change it at that mileage unless I had it apart or it was getting noisey. The cam gear may last longer, since it has less wear. The gears can be visually inspected to determine the need to change them. If there is wear in the valley it will cause slop between the roller and the gear. If the fit is firm, don't change it.

Most of the wear in the chain is between the links, not the rollers that contact the gears. If you extend a worn chain in a straight line sideways, it will droop significantly. A new chain will stay almost horizontal.

Again, nice job on the the bike.

[04R1150RS]

Update on what I've done since my last post.

- the powder coated timing cover is on. Just had some trouble w/ the charging system as I forgot where the blue wire on the back of the diode board went.
-powder coated the alt cover
- new top fork brace anodized Al, very nice piece from Custom top braces, (http://www.pbase.com/toastertan/top_braces) about $228 USD.

Pictures coming soon!!

To do list

- purchased but not installed a enduralast Alt, ended up deciding on this kit as it does away w/ the stock rotor w/ windings and charges at a higher rate at lower rpms than the Motorrad Elektrick, it was a real tossup between the two, but the enduralast is about $100 cheaper.
- fix weeping pushrod seals

[lineman126]

To Do List

- fix weeping pushrod seals

I just did mine the other day and it was a pretty straight forward job.;)
It's great when you can fix your own bike in a few hours and :drink when your done.

[04R1150RS]

Ok here's the pictures so far.

Two shots of the fork Brace, a well made part. Only thing I that instead of cutting the existing turn signal stalks I made my own. They are mounted next to the brace, figured this would be better as the originals stick out a bit...good for ripping off.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2853-20.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2862-20.jpg

My rebuilt and refaced 120 mph speedo care of Palo Alto Speedo, unfortunately the first time it was returned to me the calibration was off. Sure did a lot better job than the idiots at North Hollywood Speedo. Oh sure it won't see 120, but it could see 80mph!!

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2860-20.jpg

Also pulled the exhaust to remove one of the cylinders to do the pushrod seals, figured I'd remove the complete assembly and replace the o-rings at the crankcase, crap found out that I forgot to order the large o-ring for the cylinder!!! I had the 2 small o-rings, but not the big one. It makes no since to me not to replace the o-rings since the jug is almost off anyway. Besides if I didn't replace them they would probably leak.
No play in the rod bearings...I like this 95,000 mile motor. No surprises.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_2857-15.jpg

Check out the powder coated starter, timing and alternator covers.

[04R1150RS]

The pushrod seals were easy to do I did the right side tonite, still have to replace the exhaust system, but so far everything went well. Hopefully this weekend she'll be fired up, the timing will need to be adjusted before riding and I may go ahead and put in the enduralast alt. A bracket for the regulator has been welded on behind the left side cover so the hard part is done.
Need to get the bike finished before the day after Thanksgiving as I'm planning a ride, well if things don't work out there is the RRS.
Stone guard up date- I'm getting some 3/4" wide flat stock rolled, in 8" diameter (headlight) and two 6.5" diameter for the driving lights. Then I'll use some wire mesh spot welded on the front of the circles, then have to make the brackets.

[04R1150RS]

Had to pull the cylinders off this weekend, had a leak, put a light coat of RTV on cylinders, not leaking now. Replaced tthe tranny shift link seal.

The installed the Enduralast alternator. It went easy but took a little while to make things neat.

Welded on the lower bracket for the rectifier.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_0005.jpg

Enduralast Installed

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/1984%20BMW%20R80%20GS/IMG_0004.jpg

The alt does make a slight whining like I've heard others mention.

[fabiox]

Nice Bike !
How much did you pay for that baby.....

[beemerguru]

If you'v got it down that far..seems a shame not to take the next logical step and pull the rods and take them along with the pistons and wrist pins to a good speed shop and have them balance everything.

I've seen as much as 4 grm difference from the factory. Makes a big difference in smoothness and power curve.

[04R1150RS]

So far I've put about $1,500 extra in parts, front brakes, fork seals, gators, pushrod seals, tranny shifter seal, Race tech fork emulators, purchased timing gears but not used, timing chain tensioner, ceramic and powder coat of rear frame section, exhaust, starter and timing cover, Eduralast Alternator, carb needles (not installed ), carb diaphram, throttle cables, front wheel bearings (not installed), panasonic battery, speedo rebuild and maybe a few other things. Needs tires now.
Came with, BMW saddle bags, extra stainless muffler (BMW), extra larger tank, windshield.

If you must know it was purchased for $3,500.