Pics for fork seal change on RT [Archive]

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mfifer

08-31-2008, 09:17 PM

Pics for fork seal change on my 1996 R1100RT.

Use the manual to remove front tire , fender , calipers, and ABS sensor.

When removing ABS sensor , be aware of the spacers under it as they need to go back for proper distance between sensor and ring on wheel.

When you get down to just the bare fork legs , remove the four bolts holding the legs to the A arm bracket and the legs can be lowered down and removed.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0732-600.jpg

Have a pan handy as fluid will run from the tubes.

Set the tubes aside UPRIGHT if you do not want to change oil!

I dumped mine and cleaned them inside and out.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0733-600.jpg

Remove the dust caps by hand , then remove the retainer ring with a small screwdriver.

I used an older Craftsman pry bar to remove the seal.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0735-600.jpg

Clean the inner part of the fork where seal goes and should look like this.

Be sure not to lose the spacer ring seen in the picture (on top of the bushing and will be under the seal).

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0737-600.jpg

Get the new seal and apply a small amount of fork oil to the inner and outer surfaces of the seal and drive the new seal in with the old seal and a rubber mallet.

The old seal will come rigt out afterwards.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0738-600.jpg

Put the retaining ring back in

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0739-600.jpg

Then put new dust seal in by hand.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0740-600.jpg

Now repeat on second tube, and fill with 470 ml of fork oil (if you have emptied the fluid).

I used Harley Davidson Type E and it comes in 470 ml containers.

I do not have a nearby BMW dealer.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0742-600.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0743-600.jpg

You are now ready to re-install the tubes.

Push each tube up onto the fork legs and hand tighten in 1 bolt in each.

Now put a small amount of thread lock on the other bolt and start it and run it down near but not completely tight.

Repeat on other leg.

Then remove the hand tight bolt on each and apply thread lock and run them down to near tight.

At this point it is nessesary to slip the axle through both legs to align the legs.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e338/mfifer/r1100rt/DSCN0741-600.jpg

Now tighten all four A arm bolts to the legs and you are nearly done.

Now all you need to do is re-install all wires , clips , ABS sensor, pull the axle and re-install front wheel and fender per manual instructions .

Be sure to test ABS upon completion by starting the bike and driving forward about 20' and make sure ABS lights go out.

You have now done it and saved some cash!

:dance :clap :nod

Mike

Motowalt

09-01-2008, 08:43 PM

Thanks for taking the time and effort to post this Mike. :lurk
Your pictures make it clear what has to be done and it takes the unknown/fear factor out of it...

Any idea what weight "type E" fork oil actually is?

mfifer

09-01-2008, 09:19 PM

Any idea what weight "type E" fork oil actually is?

No , as you would expect Harley doesn't put it on the container. After shaking several types at the Harley dealer I took the medium feel.
After pooring it , my eyeball guess would be about 10W a little heavy for the BMW but the feel is a little firmer and I like it anyway.

Thanks for the post!

Mike

bmwrat

08-23-2009, 06:31 AM

Hello everyone, My son just changed out his fork seals on his '96 R11rs. It's his first bike
ever I might add. Well everything went as advertised, until he took it for the test ride.
He stated that the speed started fluctuating around 35- 40 mph. Is there something he may have done or not done or is just dumb luck.
I can't physically help him. I live in upstate NY and He is stationed at tinker afb, OK.

Any advice would be great before he spends $50-70 on a new speedo unit.
thanks

mfifer

08-23-2009, 08:19 AM

BMWRAT , there are only a few possibilities.
1, does the speedo gear housing at the axle have it's groove situated onto the alignment lug on the fork leg?

2, does the cable need to be cleaned and lubed?

3, is cable not routed correctly or pulled down at the speedo and loose?

Aside from those things , I would be at a loss.
Thanks , Mike

mfifer

03-20-2011, 11:48 PM

Bump , for a friend.
PS i full bottle of the HD oil per side.
There seemed to be a question here.
Mike

flars

03-21-2011, 06:28 AM

"...speed started fluctuating around 35- 40 mph..."
Nothing here will affect the ACTUAL speed, but is he is talking about a problem with the speedo needle bouncing around ?
BMW speedometers do not like cold weather. The problem could be with the cable itself, or with the speedo drive itself (not rare, but not too common either).
Also, the speedo drive has to be installed so the two locator bumps surround the matching bump on the left fork leg so the speedo drive stays in one spot.

mfifer

03-21-2011, 07:29 AM

rxcrider

03-21-2011, 11:18 AM

I think you posted in the wrong thread.
Mike

nope - I think he just didn't notice that the thread was 1.5 yrs old (Like I didn't 'til I started wonding about your last post)