Removing fearing around headlight on 1999 R1100RT

[Hoorenga]

I now know what I need to do to fix my misaligned headlight but I need to remove the part of the fearing that is around it. I have removed the windshield and all of hex bolts I can find including the ones under the break away mirrors but it still won't budge. What's up with that? How does it come off?

Doug

[GrafikFeat]

I now know what I need to do to fix my misaligned headlight but I need to remove the part of the fearing that is around it. I have removed the windshield and all of hex bolts I can find including the ones under the break away mirrors but it still won't budge. What's up with that? How does it come off?

Doug

Look through this Parts Fiche. (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.do?model=0418&mospid=48862&hg=46)

[Hoorenga]

Great site but nothing detailed enough to explain how to remove the fearing.

Doug

[Hoorenga]

I am beginning to notice all the signs that I have gone too far but it's too late to turn back. I decided that it wasn't doing me any good having a headlight that points up into the tree tops so I attempted to remove the upper portion of the fearing just beneath the windshield and around the headlamp that is keeping me from getting directly to it. I now have no choice but to keep going because I can see that loose parts behind the headlight lens that I need to get to. I have very methodically removed every screws that seems to have anything to do with holding the upper fearing on, even found two more on the inside at the top that were holding it down. If anyone has ever removed this piece before I could sure use a little direction.
:banghead
Doug

[ArthurKnowles]

Removing the fairing is simple. I just removed mine once again to replace my clutch safety switch. Here's what you need to remove ...


Lower cowl.
Left fairing.
Right fairing.
Side mirrors (4 mm hex bolt that holds on side fairing & black scres in the center of the metal reinforcement plate).
Instrument cover (black cover in back of fairing) which will include 1 electrical connection on the right (for the clock) 4 on the left (switches).
Windshield (so you can get the two top hex bolts off under the windshield).
2 big black screws on the lower sides of the front fairing.


You need to remove the lower cowl and side fairings because the side fairings have a tab that locks in tot he side of the front fairing. Plus the side fairings wrap around the front fairing and has a hex bolt screw that needs to be removed (look in the oil cooler area).

There is no way to remove jsut the front fairing as a single unit without removing it all as far as I know. I do make it easy though. I use a powered screwdriver (Skill model) with a 3mm heas head wrench. I can take off the cowl and sides in about 20 minutes. I put all the screws in tille plastic bags that I label so I know where each screw should be installed.

[Hoorenga]

Arthur, your are a godsend. Your instructions are very clear. I don't think I will have a problem getting through it now. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Doug

[ArthurKnowles]

Glad I could help. Sorry my spelling was so bad though. It's a problem for me as a non-touch typist. I don't finger peck so much, but do have a tendency to hit keys slightly out of sequence.

That and the pain meds (just had abit of minor surgery) probably didn't help my cooridination.

[Hoorenga]

I can't spell so we are even.

Doug

[Hoorenga]

Arthur, thanks again for guiding me through the fearing removal portion of this problem. I was finally able to get the headlight housing off of the bike, remove the front, glass lens that is glued to the headlight housing and assemble the parts that came loose when the adjustment screw was removed. The headlight assembly is a sealed unit and not designed to be opened and worked on but if you are very persistent you can use a thin bladed knife and loosen the glass lens by cutting into the caulking that is used to bond it to the plastic housing. It's a pain in the ass but can be done. I was inspired by the $250 cost of a new replacement unit. Fortunately the caulking is of a type that remains pliable. To re assemble it I just used the old caulking that was still in place. The old caulking was tacky enough to make a bond but to be sure it sealed completely I went around the edge with some silicone caulk. Works Great!

[ArthurKnowles]

Glad to hear you got it working OK.