what's the right set up for bleeding the clutch?

[k2m]

have started doing some of the service on my 2004 R1150R and need some suggestions about the "right" way to bleed the clutch. Vacuum bleeders? replacement parts to make it easier the next time, etc.
thanks

[manicmechanic]

Actually, what you'll be doing is flushing the clutch hydraulic actuator (reminds me, I should do mine and the brakes, too). Bleeding and flushing are similar, except bleeding is trying to remove trapped air. What I do, FWIW, is to obtain a length of clear tubing several feet long that makes a very snug fit over the bleed port. Run the tubing relatively high with regart to the fitting (like over the seat or saddlebag bracket) then down into a small container with clean fluid in it. Ensure the end of the tubing is in the fluid. Remove the cover from the master cylinder reservoir, then crack open (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn) the bleed fitting. Make sure your painted surfaces are covered, then slowly squeeze the lever and observe the fluid coming through the tubing. Keep the reservoir full with fresh fluid and continue until you see clean fluid in the tubing. Close the bleed port snugly, then carefully remove and drain the tubing. Ensure you have a good clutch lever feel, then top up the reservoir and replace the cover. Clean up whatever mess you've made, then take the bike for a test ride to celebrate your accomplishment.

[k2m]

Thanks for your suggestions and it certainly make good sense to flush the old fluid.
Maybe I'm missing something, but the bleed fitting that I see is the allen screw (more like a set screw) in the very end of the whole valve assembly.
Do I need to replace it with a more traditional bleed valve (like on my calipers)?
Then I can attach a hose that you are suggesting.

[jduke]

Great suggestion using the longer clear tube.
They come with a grub screw. Most people replace them with a regular brake bleed valve the first time they change clutch fluid. I've heard of some using a Speed bleeder, but with the longer clear tube it's not necessary.

[Slablog]

Most people replace them with a regular brake bleed

Yes. They are listed under special tools and don't cost very much...if you can get the dealer to sell you one. There was some rumors a while back that BMW dealers had stopped selling "tools" to regular folks who wanted to wrench their own bikes.

[R100RS]

The bleeder part number is: 34 21 2 330 310
If you intend to leave it on permanently, you will also need the little rubber cap which is part number: 32 21 1 236 794

I put it in instead of the grub screw (and left it in), but I've read that it's easier/better to take the whole check valve assembly off and put the bleeder in its place. I will take out the check valve and switch mine next time I bleed the clutch.

[k2m]

Actually, what you'll be doing is flushing the clutch hydraulic actuator (reminds me, I should do mine and the brakes, too). Bleeding and flushing are similar, except bleeding is trying to remove trapped air. What I do, FWIW, is to obtain a length of clear tubing several feet long that makes a very snug fit over the bleed port. Run the tubing relatively high with regart to the fitting (like over the seat or saddlebag bracket) then down into a small container with clean fluid in it. Ensure the end of the tubing is in the fluid. Remove the cover from the master cylinder reservoir, then crack open (maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn) the bleed fitting. Make sure your painted surfaces are covered, then slowly squeeze the lever and observe the fluid coming through the tubing. Keep the reservoir full with fresh fluid and continue until you see clean fluid in the tubing. Close the bleed port snugly, then carefully remove and drain the tubing. Ensure you have a good clutch lever feel, then top up the reservoir and replace the cover. Clean up whatever mess you've made, then take the bike for a test ride to celebrate your accomplishment.

Ok, I've replaced the grub screw with a bleed valve. Then opened the reservoir to flush fresh BMW DOT4 through it and did so. However there was black residue in the reservoir. I turkey bastered (:?) it out and put fresh fluid in and had clear fluid coming through the clear tube at the bleed valve. Things were great for a few days, then the clutch friction/engage point started moving back towards my grip. I bled things again and when topping out the reservoir, I've got black "suspension" in the fluid again. Could my diaphragm/gasket be deteriorating?
should I replace it and hope? thanks for your suggestions.

[R100RS]

When the engagement point started "moving", did you notice any drop in fluid level? Did you see any leaks? If the fluid level is dropping and there is no visible sign of leakage anywhere, your clutch slave cylinder is gone, and you need to change it to keep from fouling the clutch with brake fluid.

[k2m]

there's been no drop in the fluid level; I've continued to ride and just living with the moving friction point. I have noticed an occasional 'moaning' when I'm idling in neutral that quits when I pull in the clutch lever--does that also point to a bad slave cylinder?
I've only got about 15K on the bike and it's been serviced on schedule. What else could I have done to prevent problems?
thanks for your suggestions,
Ken

[R100RS]

Not sure about the whole "moaning" thing.

No leaks is good, but it sounds like you have air in your clutch line. Try bleeding it again (you don't have to change the fluid). Changing the clutch fluid regularly (every year or two, regardless of mileage) is critical on these bikes.