Lowering Throttle Tension

[tkdan235]

When I rode yesterday my right hand was killing me. I have no idea why the tension has to be so darn high on the throttle. I read around and it really seems like this is a very common issue. I have seen three solutions:

1.) Reduced-strength throttle spring. This would be great, but where can I get one for a R75/5? Any ideas?

2.) Schneider Flip-a-Lever. Seems cool for long trips, more friction in there would make it easier to hold. However, I can't find this anywhere!

3.) Throttlerocker, also seems great, but is it safe? Does it seem like a good solution to this problem? This looks very cool.

My grandpa told me to stop crying and suck it up. I didn't like that option.

Any other suggestions or know where to find these products? (Other than the throttle rocker)

[20774]

1. I believe Ted Porter at the Beemershop has some different throttle springs. http://www.beemershop.com

2. I believe the Schneider company is no more...website is gone. Something to consider if you have this on your grip housing. There's a screw with a plastic tip that could be used...see #16 here:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0260&mospid=47835&btnr=32_0752&hg=32&fg=10

I think it's specifically to allow you to set the throttle when doing maintenance, but if you turned it so it had the right amount of drag, it would take a bit of the spring back of the grip. You might have to help it closed a bit, but I'm sure there's a "happy" point in there somewhere.

3. I've got a version on my /7. I like it a lot...hasn't really caused a problem. Let's me relax my fingers/grip and hold throttle with the heel of my hand. It's not for changing speed; just for holding what you got.

[47512]

I found some small springs at a local hardware store some years ago. I found some aprox the same diameter, and about the same wire gauge, and added 3 more coils than the stock springs, you will have to bend the coils at the ends to make the loops that attach to the throttles, small needle nose pliers work well. Don't make then too weak or they won't return the throttles.

Ken G.

[tkdan235]

Perfect this is what I am looking for. I will checkout the hardware store and see if that will work for me. Most likely though I will just head over to Ted Porters and pickup the springs. It's only about 25 minutes from where I live. (And a beautiful ride ;)

I called Ted Porters and talked to a cool guy named Josh, he said /5's very typically call in with this problem. They replace the spring as well as the cable. He says they install the new BMW cables that have a teflon coating inside to make them slide better.

So much for Schneider... RIP.

If the springs arent good enough I will look into getting a Throttlerocker.

Thanks for the response. I did not know about Ted Porters, that is a great reference for me!

[Rich]

Kuryakyn makes a neat little alternative to the Crampbuster and Throttle rocker. They refer to it as the Throttle Boss. I have used it and the advantage is it is a lot smaller than the Crampbuster but yet gets the job done well. Any Harley shop will have them.

http://kuryakyn.com/products.asp?bn=harley&ci=2502

Click on the installation instructions to see a picture of it on the grip.

[kstoo]

Before you modify ... simplify.
Kurt (20774) posted earlier about the knurled screw under the throttle; I would disagree that it is there for maintenance servicing because of the way that it is designed to be so easily adjustable. IMHO it is there to dampen the return springs effect. It can solve your problem.
This may seem radical for some but I always set mine so that the throttle will not return unless I twist it back. It is not unsafe if you have been driving this way for decades! When I had Hondas with the push-pull throttle cables I would take the throttle spring off completely.
Try playing with that damper screw first, that is what it is there for.

[88bmwJeff]

I know the guy who developed the EZ pull springs. We sort of. He lives around here (Castro Valley), and I've bumped into him (so to speak) on local rides. He created them for the exact same reason you indicated. His right had was killing him too much to ride and he wanted a solution. I have a set on my bike, and it makes a big difference. Don't bother with the trial and error with springs from the local hardware store. Some time was spent working with the manufacturer to find a light enough spring rate that still works well. Anyway, I hope the springs work well.

[PMonk]

Probably will spring for the Beemershop springs someday.
but in meantime the ones that cost about 25 cents at the hardware store
are working real good. I did that with my 1975 and again with the new 1974.

The throttle will just close on it's own and according to twin max the balance stays
right on through the rpm range.

Best dollar you will ever spend for comfort.

[channelcat]

I'm the EZ Pull Spring guy.
You can get more information at www.canbeseen.com/10,
or order from Ted Porter at Beemershop.com.
Same springs, but Ted can process credit cards, and can install 'em for you.
They work good.
Thanks, Jeff...

[tkdan235]

So I rode out to Ted Porters shop and bought the springs. I installed them, and sure enough my throttle is waaaaayyyyy better. It is literally night and day.

Now I have a new problem.

The throttle won't spring back. Should I replace the throttle cables? Is there a process for lubricating the throttle?

[dsenn]

there are several ways to lube the cables, best is to get a cable luber from a cycle shop and follow the directions. If you aren't sure of the age of the throttle cables I would just replace them with teflon lined cables. most of the problems with hard to operate throttles is due to faulty cables. Also make sure the throttle lock screw is not set too tight. It creates a drag on the throttle tube which could cause it to not return.

[88bmwJeff]

Have you tested the carbs without the cables attached? Do the butterflys spring shut without the cables attached? If so, how old are the cables? I thought most newer BMW cables do not require lube. So, you may need to replace the cables as Dsenn mentioned.

[tkdan235]

The butterflys definitely spring shut. The cables look original. 36 years old... :blah

Time to buy some more parts!

[kbasa]

Before you modify ... simplify.
Kurt (20774) posted earlier about the knurled screw under the throttle; I would disagree that it is there for maintenance servicing because of the way that it is designed to be so easily adjustable. IMHO it is there to dampen the return springs effect. It can solve your problem.
This may seem radical for some but I always set mine so that the throttle will not return unless I twist it back. It is not unsafe if you have been driving this way for decades! When I had Hondas with the push-pull throttle cables I would take the throttle spring off completely.
Try playing with that damper screw first, that is what it is there for.

I use my throttle screw as a sort of cruise control. It takes a while to get it set, but yu can get it so it won't back right off, but still allows you to modulate the throttle, both open and close, easily.

You can get a similar screw for early oilheads, but you need to buy a bit for the throttle housing on the right cluster. They call it a police motors throttle screw or something. We've had one on the RS for years.

[channelcat]

I believe the stock springs were designed to close the throttle no matter the condition of the cables, improper routing, bent throttle shafts, sunspots, whatever.
When using the EZ Pull Springs, one can adjust the base throttle closing by LIGHTLY bending the adjusting tab at the lower attachment point. If everything else is proper, I would suggest a spring extension of not more than 2-3mm with the cable freeplay adjusted properly. This should assure full butterfly closing to the adjustment screw.
T.Heyman
EZ Pull Springs
www.canbeseen.com/10

[tkdan235]

So now at this point I have installed the EZ pull springs as well as new throttle cables. I double checked with BMW and they are the Teflon cables, they are as smooth as silk!

After installing the cables, and adjusting and playing around with it, the throttle will still not return on its own. It just sticks, this time it feels a little more stuck than before.

So now I am guessing it is time to take apart the throttle and clean out all of the grease and and replace it with new grease right? :blush

Here are two pics for your enjoyment. Excuse the bike without the tank, i should have taken that picture after I cleaned the hell out of it:

<img src="http://www.tkdan.com/tmp/throttle_tension/1.jpg" /><br>
<img src="http://www.tkdan.com/tmp/throttle_tension/2.jpg" /><br>

[Bill Burke]

Since you're into the throttle, go the whole 9 yards. Replace:
Throttle cables
Throttle tube
Throttle cam.

All three are wear items. The teeth on the tube and cam wear out and get "sloppy". One reason your butterfly won't close all the way when you roll the throttle closed.

White lithium grease works well in the throttle cam.

[tkdan235]

Excuse my ignorance with this.

What part exactly is the throttle tube and cam? I couldn't find anything on it in the Clymer manual.

[Bill Burke]

Excuse my ignorance with this.

What part exactly is the throttle tube and cam? I couldn't find anything on it in the Clymer manual.

Parts 3, 4 and 9:
http://tinyurl.com/6qphg4

Picture it this way: Your throttle hand grabs the "grip". The "grip" grabs the "throttle tube". The throttle tube rotates on the "handlebar". The throttle tube has "teeth" on the end. The "teeth" on the tube mate with the "teeth" on the "throttle cam". The teeth wear out. Let us know if this clears it up.

[tkdan235]

Yea that of course makes sense. Thank you for the input.

I ordered parts 3, 4 and 9 from the bmw dealer today. I also got a grease they recommended. It is some sort of new stuff that the head mechanic had not used yet. They said it should make it much more smooth than the previous stuff. Says on the bottle it is for use on the spline shaft, which is interesting.

Parts come next week, I will install and get back to you.

[Bill Burke]

For the full monty: new cables too (unless the existing cables show no real abuse at the carbs - particularly left side...near the dipstick).

[tkdan235]

For the full monty: new cables too (unless the existing cables show no real abuse at the carbs - particularly left side...near the dipstick).

Cables have been replaced yesterday =)

[tkdan235]

Just thought I would you guys know that my throttle returns very well now with the lower tension springs! :dance

Today I pulled off the old throttle parts and then cleaned all of the old grease off. Once all of the old grease was off, I installed the new parts and regreased and vola!
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<img src="http://www.tkdan.com/tmp/throttle_tension/3.jpg" />
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[Bill Burke]

Well done.

[channelcat]

Indeed. Bravo.
www.canbeseen.com/10

[tkdan235]

Thank you! It has been two weeks and it still is working great. I also have gone on quite a few rides since then; I can definitely say that doing this job has made my riding experience much better. I can ride long distance now no problem.