View Full Version : What's this ticking sound on my 04RT?
jgmallis
08-21-2008, 06:38 PM
Sounded for all the world like valves to me so I've set them right (per the "Oilhead Valves for Dummies" instructions). I've also set the rocker arm clearances to between 0.003 and 0.005 inches and re-torqued the head bolts, to no avail. It seems to be most noticeable near idle and light throttle after the oil warms up. i bought the bike in early July with 8K on it, my first Oilhead. It'd been to the dealer at 7.5K. Just wondering of this is a normal Oilhead sound, my trusty old K bike has always been so quite I had to start it before the Harley guys did so I could make sure it was running.:)
Any thoughts???
Thanks
DrPaul
08-22-2008, 07:21 AM
RUN, IT'S A BOMB! Or, maybe not. Seriously, can you tell if it is coming from the right or left side of the bike? A mechanic's stethoscope is very helpful in isolating this type of sound. A cam chain tensioner that is on the fritz could cause such a noise.
Onebeemer
08-22-2008, 08:07 AM
Sounded for all the world like valves to me so I've set them right (per the "Oilhead Valves for Dummies" instructions). I've also set the rocker arm clearances to between 0.003 and 0.005 inches and re-torqued the head bolts, to no avail. It seems to be most noticeable near idle and light throttle after the oil warms up. i bought the bike in early July with 8K on it, my first Oilhead. It'd been to the dealer at 7.5K. Just wondering of this is a normal Oilhead sound, my trusty old K bike has always been so quite I had to start it before the Harley guys did so I could make sure it was running.:)
Any thoughts???
Thanks
If you do not hear this sound then you probably have a problem. This is the way it is supposed to be. It is normal on all oilheads. Just remeber if you don't hear it you have a problem.:bikes
deilenberger
08-22-2008, 09:01 AM
RUN, IT'S A BOMB! Or, maybe not. Seriously, can you tell if it is coming from the right or left side of the bike? A mechanic's stethoscope is very helpful in isolating this type of sound. A cam chain tensioner that is on the fritz could cause such a noise.As Dr Paul points out - a mechanic's stethoscope is a wonderful tool for this sort of thing. Harbor Freight has them for about $7 (on sale at $3 frequently) - and I wouldn't be without one. One possibility besides valves is the throttle-bodies. If misadjusted or worn - they can make a rather loud clicking noise in sync with the engine.
Just a thought when you're poking around with your new stethoscope.
jgmallis
08-22-2008, 09:31 AM
Thanks guys, Might be a problem, might not :brow
Guess I'll swing by the dealer today and get some more opinions. Need some oil change parts anyway (and maybe a farkle or two :D ). Plan to go to Yellowstone in a couple of weeks and don't want this haunting me (or worse) the whole way. Had a stethoscope years ago, lost it somewhere. When I move the rocker arms by hand, it kinda sounds like that so I've been pretty careful in setting those to near the minimum as I've seen suggested here or on IBMWR. If it's the cam chain tensionors, can they be cleaned and re-installed, or do I need new ones? The right side looks pretty easy to get to, the left side looks to need the tupperware and left TB removed first. Clymer manual not very clear. On my 77 Kaw one just loosened then tightened the adjuster, a 2 minute job. These appear to be hydraulic auto ones so maybe just need a good cleaning.
jgmallis
08-22-2008, 02:40 PM
Two master techs and the service manager all said, "That's normal", maybe the cam chain tensioners, but nothing to worry about, so I guess I'll move on.:clap
wozerd
08-29-2008, 04:01 PM
Two master techs and the service manager all said, "That's normal", maybe the cam chain tensioners, but nothing to worry about, so I guess I'll move on.:clap
Same noise that's pestered me since I got my 04 RT. Exactly the same. My right exhaust rocker is in spec but near the upper limit. I want to say thanks for doing the leg work for me (my only dealer is 68 miles away-- living in the Dayton/Columbus/Cincinatti triangle-- that is pathetic!)
I was looking for the BMW factory video I saw somewhere (thought I bookmarked it) showing the 600 mile service in detail-- torquing the head bolts and adjusting the rocker clearance and valves. Mine was done by the dealer-- but, like most flat rate paid techs-- if it's in spec-- don't adjust it, beat flat rate and make money.
Today, I'm sitting here, wondering if I could just loosen the torx head screws and loosen the lower front head nut and adjust the clearance. I don't have a decent torque wrench but I am pretty good (honest) with tighteneing bolts/nuts by feel-- not sure I want to do it on a head fastener though.
Question-- can I cheat and just loosen the one head bolt (even if I buy or borrow a torque wrench)?? Or, do I have to loosen all of them (requiring two torque wrenches) like it shows in the manual/video?
wozerd
08-29-2008, 05:34 PM
I found the video(s)
But, still wondering-- if the head was retorqued at 600K (910 miles on mine-- thanks to the previous owners lack of attention-- ok--TIME was his excuse)
Do I have to do all the head nuts and the lone M10 bolt again? Or just the one?
I worry that torquing the head studs/nuts twice might stress/stretch them.
jgmallis
08-31-2008, 08:02 PM
The video (if it's the on I have) doesn't really do it justice. Ya gotta loosen them all, including the one head nut. Then tighten them slightly and tap until ya have the right clearance. It's tricky, I spent over an hour trying to get the left side right, every time I torqued things, the clearances would change. And torquing the head bolt must be done as they say, to 20 N-m, then 180 degrees more. It looks scary but that is what it takes to put the proper tension on the head bolt. Once you get these right now, you shouldn't need to do them for 25K miles or more, or so I'm told. Do the rockers before the valves as things may change their as well. Check out the tutorials on the IBMWR site, there are some good ones there in .pdf format. There is an upgrade for the cam chain tensioners but I haven't researched that yet, we may already hae the updated version. I figure it's something to try this winter. Ya gotta remove the left side tupperware and throttle body to get to the left one, the right one is reachable form underneath.
mfifer
09-01-2008, 08:10 AM
I love my RT and it has considerable milage on it and I am finding (like most bikes) they do have their own quirky sounds that make one nervous.
That said I decided to drive this thing until it breaks as I have had some bikes that sound flawless and the magneto end of the crank come off.
Just make sure it is serviced and all will be well.
I also find that all engine noise is greatly magnified when the windsheild is full up.
My 2 cents.
Mike
41107
09-01-2008, 05:06 PM
what is it with stethoscope think all the time ? save your money and put a long screw driver to your ear.
r11rs94
09-01-2008, 06:14 PM
Sounded for all the world like valves to me so I've set them right (per the "Oilhead Valves for Dummies" instructions). I've also set the rocker arm clearances to between 0.003 and 0.005 inches and re-torqued the head bolts, to no avail. It seems to be most noticeable near idle and light throttle after the oil warms up. i bought the bike in early July with 8K on it, my first Oilhead. It'd been to the dealer at 7.5K. Just wondering of this is a normal Oilhead sound, my trusty old K bike has always been so quite I had to start it before the Harley guys did so I could make sure it was running.:)
Any thoughts???
Thanks
Get some good ear plugs, that's what I do on my 04 R-1150-RT. :ear Only kidding, but If I'm only taking the bike for gas or some short errand the oilhead does make some interesting sounds.
deilenberger
09-01-2008, 06:22 PM
what is it with stethoscope think all the time ? save your money and put a long screw driver to your ear.A mechanic's stethescope is frequently on sale at Harbor Freight for $2.99. It works considerably better than a screwdriver in your ear (I've done/had both.) For $2.99 - it's worth the investment.
mfifer
09-01-2008, 07:35 PM
A mechanic's stethescope is frequently on sale at Harbor Freight for $2.99. It works considerably better than a screwdriver in your ear (I've done/had both.) For $2.99 - it's worth the investment.
I agree and it hurts if the screwdriver hits a moving part (not that I would do something that stupid :whistle ) I'm just saying.
Also a screwdriver does not allow you to look at what your searching for , as you always have to have your head sideways.
Mike
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