Steering head upper bearing installation

[kbasa]

Hey all. I'm trying to get the steering head back together and am running into some difficulty with the upper bearing. In just about every other motorcycle I've ever done steering head bearings on, the upper race just drops right in or fits over the steering stem with light pressure. On my R100, though, it seems like the upper bearing is a friction fit. I've got the triple tree in the freezer and figure I'm going to have to put the bearing in the oven.

Is this correct? If so, how does one ensure that the upper bearing is properly lubed with grease?

While this is supposedly an '84, I believe the frame is actually from an earlier model, given that it has the old style driveshaft and swingarm.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

While this is supposedly an '84, I believe the frame is actually from an earlier model, given that it has the old style driveshaft and swingarm.
Wish I had some experience to draw on, but I'm looking at doing my '83 R100 in the near future. Wouldn't happen to have any pics would you?

[R100RS]

I don't remember it being a big deal when I did it on a /6. I may have frozen the steering shaft/fork brace assembly or not, I can't remember. I certainly didn't heat the inner race, so that can be packed normally beforehand. I used a piece of pipe to gently tap the bearing down the shaft.

Check this out:

http://www.airheads.org/content/view/193/49/

[James.A]

On old-timey rear wheel drive cars, say like a '64 Chevy Bel Air, I have used emery cloth to dress front wheel spindles and inside bearing races to achieve a reasonable fit. This is, however, a very time consuming exercise. If you must resort to heating the bearing, you might use one of those hypodermic needles with a grease fitting on the end and a grease gun to fill the bearing with grease after it is in place. They are availabe at NAPA for a few dollars. Or you could use a stiff card, like a bondo spreader, to trowel grease into the top of the bearing between the race and the cage after it is in place.

[sumran]

I've got the triple tree in the freezer and figure I'm going to have to put the bearing in the oven.

Is this correct? If so, how does one ensure that the upper bearing is properly lubed with grease?

I am trying to watch (figuratively speaking)and learn. Wouldn't you want to make the bearing smaller (freezer)?

While this is supposedly an '84, I believe the frame is actually from an earlier model, given that it has the old style driveshaft and swingarm.

Do the frame and engine numbers match? Real OEM will tell the actual manufacture date.

[brickrider]

Hey all. I'm trying to get the steering head back together and am running into some difficulty with the upper bearing. In just about every other motorcycle I've ever done steering head bearings on, the upper race just drops right in or fits over the steering stem with light pressure. On my R100, though, it seems like the upper bearing is a friction fit. I've got the triple tree in the freezer and figure I'm going to have to put the bearing in the oven.

Is this correct? If so, how does one ensure that the upper bearing is properly lubed with grease?

While this is supposedly an '84, I believe the frame is actually from an earlier model, given that it has the old style driveshaft and swingarm.


Dave,

I would bet a dozen doughnuts that you have encountered the exact same problem that I did, 4 separate times, in the mid-80s. The 4 different bikes, (2 that were mine, 2 that were not) were a 1983 R100RT, a 1982 R100RS, a 1982 R100RT, and a 1985 R80RT.

The instant answer is, get that tree out of the freezer and forget the oven. If you assemble them this way the end result will be that the bearing will be permanently frozen to the shaft and from that point on, no steering head adjustment will be possible.

This is a serious safety problem. I believe it is widespread. I tried to write about it in the MOA back in the mid-80s, but the regime in power back then kicked me aside like the famous encounter of the little boy and W.C. Fields -- "Go away, kid - you bother me". Please forgive the self-righteousness, for I cannot feel more satisfied that it has hit you. Maybe now this issue will receive its long-deserved publicity.

The core issue here is that the raised area on the steering stem where the bearing rides is oversize, INCORRECTLY MACHINED FROM THE FACTORY.

For months my 83 R100RT had varying degrees of steering wobble, feeling any moment that it would go tank-slapper. Every dealer that I queried back then told me to tighten the adjusting nut. When I replied that I had tightened it as far as it would go, and then some with a hammer & screwdriver, and that the handlebars STILL wobbled when I let go of them at speed, the answer was --- naturally ---"Don't let go of the handlebars".

Finally, in desperation and frustration, I took the whole front end off yet AGAIN, and took the tree to my now late friend Sam the Machinist. It was Sam who discovered that the raised area was oversize. He chucked the whole tree into a lathe after covering the top threads with some interesting stuff that came on a small roll that he called 'metal tape'. It protects the threads perfectly for this kind of machine work. The metal tape was about the size of ordinary teflon tape, came on roll a little bigger than that, and was thinner than the thinnest feeler gauge that you have used.

Sam turned that raised area down to about .002" smaller than the measured ID size of the brand new steering head bearing that I bought.

For reassembly I used "red grease" a still commonly used wheel bearing grease by Pennzoil. I used a needle on the end of a grease gun to individually fill around each roller in the bearing. Then I smothered that spot on the steering stem with grease. Upon reassembly, what a miracle! The bearing slid right down over the stem perfectly, and the adjuster nut moved easily by hand! to the correct preload.

The first road test was ecstacy - the bike actually handled the way it was supposed to! I took it out on the freeway, cranked on the throttle stop at speed, and with the steering dampener set at '0', proceeded to ride for 25-30 miles without touching the handlebars with either hand. I steered the bike using body english from the seat. What a revelation!

In the subsequent few months, problems with the other 3 bikes mentioned above came up, and lo and behold, same problem! It is the series of problems with these other three bikes which convince me that the problem is widespread, the mention of which is carefully avoided by the factory.

These days, I cringe whenever I hear about an airhead with front-end wobble and strange adjustment troubles. It is a lot of work and Big-Time PITA to address this issue, particularly on the RS / RT models. Most people don't want to hear what I have to say about this problem, because the message is so negative. After going through this thing 4 separate times, I can understand why in ye olden days the King ordered killed any Messenger who brought bad news.

I have given up the mention of the problem, and the fix, many times. But it just keeps coming back to haunt me. Because of the danger to a rider I've never met, I guess I just couldn't sleep tonight without going through this story yet one more time.

Maybe increased public knowledge will finally chase this ghost out of my closet.

Ride Safely,
BrickRider

[rpeckham136133]

While I haven't had the extreme difficulty that you mention, above, and as the basis for this thread, I did find that the upper bearing was an "interference" fit.... I presumed that it was meant to be so..... Bike is a '76 /6.

I ended up tapping the bearing down gently, enough to engage the head nut, and then drew it down with that. I ended up taking it back out a couple of times (due to lack of foresight of a couple of things>>>!) simply by driving the headstock down through the bearing and races. It was never so hard as to feel that I could be damaging anything. And when it was all done, it was as smooth as butter.

It may be a problem endemic to the "next generation" bikes? Yours are all R100's I believe?

The photo shows the lower bearing as found and before cleaning, the loose bearing is the upper bearing, cleaned up, prior to grease. In spite of appearances, the bearings were in great shape and snugged up perfectly.

[sumran]

Thanks for the pictures. I now understand why the bearing was in the oven. Interesting history by brickrider. I will make a mental note of the story.

[rocketman]

On both my /7 and /5's its a slight interference fit but with some gentle tapping it went right into place. No cooling or heating anything required, but I don't know the year of your bike and haven't ever had anything later than my 78.

RM

[lostboy]

Brickrider is right on the money. The O.D. of the stems varies from bike to bike and can usually be polished down to size with emery cloth.

[rpeckham136133]

Just for the halibut: how hard was it to pull the bearing out, originally? :scratch



.

[kbasa]

Just for the halibut: how hard was it to pull the bearing out, originally? :scratch



.

It took a couple good taps with my ball peen, but came right out.

I'll try screwing it down with the locknut and see what happens.

Thanks, guys.

[rpeckham136133]

OK, like Pavlov's dogs: reward me and I will post more pictures.... so here are a couple more of headgear, grease, and other exciting things....

http://bpeckm.smugmug.com/photos/351685808_qawwA-M.jpg

Above is the cleaned-up-and-greased lower bearing.

Below is the lower race:

http://bpeckm.smugmug.com/photos/351685810_NgWv7-M.jpg

And this is the assembly, can sorta see the nut that would draw this together and will create the bearing preload (below the top triple-tree which is just a steel plate). I found that, after assembly, the nut had to be tightened more: you can reach under the triple tree and use a punch or a screwdriver with a hammer to rotate the nut. The ideal is to have it snug enough to take out any play, but not so snug as to feel any notchiness. With the new grease, the steering head would fall off to the side effortlessly, even after the perches with cables were installed. I may need to tighten it up just a smidge after riding a bit, but so far it feels real easy.

http://bpeckm.smugmug.com/photos/351685815_ppARJ-M.jpg

[Isamemon]

what kind of greese are you runing, loks more like assembly lube

[brickrider]

what kind of greese are you runing, loks more like assembly lube

Isamemon: You got to it before I did--

Looks like white lithium grease used in the pictures. We used that stuff by the 55-gallon barrel in the auto factory where I worked. It is made for light applications like door window glass rollers and such, but NOT pressure applications like tapered bearings. Airhead steering head bearings should only have wheel bearing grease applied to the rollers. The aforementioned Pennzoil is about the best I've found for automotive applications, but of course isn't the only one.


Kbasa: NO tapping at ALL should be required to remove the top bearing. ANY tapping required at all means the wrong clearance amount exists and should be rectified before reassembly.


rpeckham136133: While I haven't had the extreme difficulty that you mention, above, and as the basis for this thread, I did find that the upper bearing was an "interference" fit.... I presumed that it was meant to be so..... Bike is a '76 /6.
Sorry, but NO, the UPPER Bearing is NOT intended for an interference fit. ONLY the LOWER bearing is supposed to fit tight on the stem (interference fit) and not move. NO tapping on the top at all. ONLY the top ADJUSTER NUT is supposed to apply the correct preload to the steering head group of components as a system. Then that big lock nut holds everything in place for no future movement. For new bearings, after a bit of usage, the bearings "seat in" to the races. The lock nut must be loosened, adjuster nut advanced to take up the slack, and the locknut retorqued. The Truth, unfortunately, is that yours is improperly assembled.


Rocketman: You got lucky - yours is only off a little bit. If you ever take the Steering Head back apart, there should be .002" minimum clearance between the stem and the top bearing in the area where the bearing rides on the stem. A little more should be ok, but a little less is not.


Lostboy: Thanks for the kudo! The only issue I have with emery cloth is how to take even amounts off all the way around the circle? The only way is to chuck the stem into a lathe. Emery cloth could be used then, if only a little bit of metal needs to be removed. After lousy experiences with rice burners, I purchased a BMW because of the perceived reputation not just for superior engineering, but top-notch assembled quality. So I began by assuming that there was something wrong in what I was doing. After much time invested in conversing with many different people on what could be the source of the problem, I finally came to believe differently, because Sam machined relatively huge amounts of metal off the stem in order to correct the problem. Makes a person just a wee bit more cynical. In my 4 cases, I was: #1 - shocked to discover; #2 - surprised to see it twice; #3 - angry to see it a 3rd time; #4 - totally disgusted to see it on the R80 series too, convincing me that ALL airhead models were potentially affected.


Ride Safely Everyone,
BrickRider

[R100RS]

Must've jumped too quickly before reading thoroughly on my first reply. I was thinking you had problems with getting the lower bearing on the shaft. The upper bearing should be easy-peasy and should be able to be brought home with the top nut.

[rpeckham136133]

quote:

rpeckham136133:
Quote:


Sorry, but NO, the UPPER Bearing is NOT intended for an interference fit. ONLY the LOWER bearing is supposed to fit tight on the stem (interference fit) and not move. NO tapping on the top at all. ONLY the top adjuster NUT is supposed to apply the correct preload to the steering head group of components as a system. Then that big lock nut holds everything in place for no future movement. For new bearings, after a bit of usage, the bearings "seat in" to the races. The lock nut must be loosened, adjuster nut advanced to take up the slack, and the locknut retorqued. The Truth, unfortunately, is that yours is improperly assembled.

quote

Well, without resorting to flamethrowing and/or picking nits, since I am being addressed per above. amd The Truth is being questioned:

My choice of words may be wrong, I don't know. Interference fit, to my mind anyway, means that I cannot slide the sucker on by hand. However, once it was greased, I could pull the headstock up through the upper bearing with one finger on the little BMW 36mm flat steel wrench. Not much pressure, at all.

To get it back out, I had to tap on the headstock with a rubber mallet, and that drove the headstock down through, again without any undue pressure. No, it did not drop out of its own weight, but it sure didn't take much to get it out. I first snugged it with just the triple tree, then had to tighten more when the full assembly of the front end and the weight of the bike was on it. There is no perceptible slack, nor is there any notchiness nor drag. It turns like a dream, though I am still just riding neighborhood streets until I get her finished and registered, so 45mph has been top end so far..... and I feel that it is properly installed.

The grease I used is Lubriplate 105. Not a heavy duty grease, admittedly, but this is not a high heat, high rotational speed application. The grease should be OK for this application, I think. If it is absolutely wrong, please let me know...:) I also have a blue-colored "disc brake wheel bearing grease" in my grease gun, and a tube of Honda Moly 60 paste for splines.

Anxiously awaiting critique.....................:hide

[brickrider]

quote:

rpeckham136133:
Quote:


Sorry, but NO, the UPPER Bearing is NOT intended for an interference fit. ONLY the LOWER bearing is supposed to fit tight on the stem (interference fit) and not move. NO tapping on the top at all. ONLY the top adjuster NUT is supposed to apply the correct preload to the steering head group of components as a system. Then that big lock nut holds everything in place for no future movement. For new bearings, after a bit of usage, the bearings "seat in" to the races. The lock nut must be loosened, adjuster nut advanced to take up the slack, and the locknut retorqued. The Truth, unfortunately, is that yours is improperly assembled.

quote

Well, without resorting to flamethrowing and/or picking nits, since I am being addressed per above. amd The Truth is being questioned:

My choice of words may be wrong, I don't know. Interference fit, to my mind anyway, means that I cannot slide the sucker on by hand. However, once it was greased, I could pull the headstock up through the upper bearing with one finger on the little BMW 36mm flat steel wrench. Not much pressure, at all.

To get it back out, I had to tap on the headstock with a rubber mallet, and that drove the headstock down through, again without any undue pressure. No, it did not drop out of its own weight, but it sure didn't take much to get it out. I first snugged it with just the triple tree, then had to tighten more when the full assembly of the front end and the weight of the bike was on it. There is no perceptible slack, nor is there any notchiness nor drag. It turns like a dream, though I am still just riding neighborhood streets until I get her finished and registered, so 45mph has been top end so far..... and I feel that it is properly installed.

The grease I used is Lubriplate 105. Not a heavy duty grease, admittedly, but this is not a high heat, high rotational speed application. The grease should be OK for this application, I think. If it is absolutely wrong, please let me know...:) I also have a blue-colored "disc brake wheel bearing grease" in my grease gun, and a tube of Honda Moly 60 paste for splines.

Anxiously awaiting critique.....................:hide

Thanks for your input!

Please do not misunderstand my serious tone as a personal criticism. I don't do personal criticism because it is not only rude, but non-productive. Anything I say is meant to be constructive. My tone is serious because I have spent 20+ years of frustration in trying to properly make people aware of just how extensive and potentially hazardous is this problem, with little success and nothing to show for my efforts.

I have reread your last response several times. Due to the way that you have desribed how the top bearing moves, I am convinced that the stem on your bike is oversize by about .001".

The fact that there is no "notchiness" is proof that the bearings are good, needing no replacement. Of course this is easy for me to say, but I recommend that you take it back apart. Again, remember I did this about 6 times (with success occurring only on the last 4), and hated it every time.

Recommend that you clean all that white grease out of the bearing and off the races with gas or mineral spirits. Then use about a 2" wide strip of fine (like 320 grit minimum, or finer) emery cloth long enough to wrap all the way around the stem. Grasp as much of the circle with your hand as you can, and rotate/sand that stem down, trying your best to apply even pressure all the way around at once, so as not to create high spots.

When done, clean the particles off with disc brake cleaner and paper towels or a rag to prevent the particles from spreading around. Then slide the bearing over it dry as a test. It should slide smoothly with no metal-to-metal catches. If you can wiggle the bearing just ever so slightly at the mating point of the stem, that should be about .002" clearance. Better would be to measure both with calipers and be sure.

Now use that blue wheel bearing grease in your grease gun, and a grease needle, to carefully feed grease into the bearing from the wide side, filling up each cavity completely full before going to the next one. I usually start with the needle in deeply, then pull back a bit so the grease fills the entire length of each roller. Then smooth out the grease on both sides and around the circumference. When you are done, the bearing will be perfectly packed and look great, better than a factory job. Your hands will be completely covered in grease, and usually your nose will itch about this time, so when you wipe your hands, you might look in the mirror so the kids (or the spouse/SO) don't have occasion to laugh!

Next grease the races and the stem with the same blue WB grease.

Put away the hammer. It is not needed for reassembly. Think about it. You don't need a hammer when reassembling the bearings into the hub when doing a front brake job on your car/truck, do you? Same principle.

Years from now, you may not remember me, but your bike will be cruisin' safely down the road, eating up lots of miles.

Ride Safely,
Brick

[rpeckham136133]

[

Put away the hammer. It is not needed for reassembly. Think about it. You don't need a hammer when reassembling the bearings into the hub when doing a front brake job on your car/truck, do you? Same principle.

Years from now, you may not remember me, but your bike will be cruisin' safely down the road, eating up lots of miles.

Ride Safely,
Brick
[/SIZE][/FONT]

Thanks for your clarification. However, the hammer was used for diassembly only. After removing the locknut, triple tree and the serrated nut, the spindle doesn't drop out, but a couple of light taps with the rubber mallet will push the spindle through the upper bearing, and then, of course it drops out.

And the grease, while probably adequate for the loads imposed, is not the right stuff. When I bought the blue stuff and felt its consistency, it became apparent that my beloved old can of Lubriplate (which I have lugged around since the '70's (!) was not truly "grease"......but a heavy lube.


That being said, your points are well taken. Thank you.

[brickrider]

Thanks for your clarification. However, the hammer was used for diassembly only. After removing the locknut, triple tree and the serrated nut, the spindle doesn't drop out, but a couple of light taps with the rubber mallet will push the spindle through the upper bearing, and then, of course it drops out.

And the grease, while probably adequate for the loads imposed, is not the right stuff. When I bought the blue stuff and felt its consistency, it became apparent that my beloved old can of Lubriplate (which I have lugged around since the '70's (!) was not truly "grease"......but a heavy lube.


That being said, your points are well taken. Thank you.

You are welcome.

Brick

[DennisDarrow]

Brickrider........Thanks for your concise and accurate reporting of how to do this particular job. It is obvious from your passion about this that it concerns you greatly. Even more thanks is due for your caring.
Surely is great to read information from folks who have been there and done it as it "should" be done, rather than the way to take short cuts or make excuses for not doing it properly. Or even better yet, advice from folks that have read something somewhere and are therefore competent to advise "how" to do it......
Anyway, it is here, archived, and totally useful.........God Bless.........Dennis

[brickrider]

Brickrider........Thanks for your concise and accurate reporting of how to do this particular job. It is obvious from your passion about this that it concerns you greatly. Even more thanks is due for your caring.
Surely is great to read information from folks who have been there and done it as it "should" be done, rather than the way to take short cuts or make excuses for not doing it properly. Or even better yet, advice from folks that have read something somewhere and are therefore competent to advise "how" to do it......
Anyway, it is here, archived, and totally useful.........God Bless.........Dennis

Dennis,

Thank you so much for the kind words. They are appreciated.

Speaking of the way it "should" be done reminds me of my late friend Joe, whom I dubbed the name "World Famous Tightwad", and who was responsible for bugging me until I joined the MOA. He was a line inspector in the auto plant where I worked. As the vehicles rolled by, he would inspect all kinds of safety and cosmetic issues, and write them up on a ticket for repair before the vehicles hit the door. Anything he wrote HAD to be addressed, since he was chief inspector. Management was constantly on his case about what was written up, because their performance was dependent upon how many vehicles were "sold" (ok'd to be released to the shipper) on that shift. More stuff written up meant more vehicles in the repair holes out back before they could be sold. So they were constantly on him about "how he wanted things today", meaning to close his eyes and let vehicles go by without repairing wrong items, letting the grief pass to the dealer. Joe would get hot under the collar, and scream right back in their faces, "It's NOT what I want, or what YOU want -- It's HOW IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE!!!"

So, yeah, I get a little passionate about things sometimes, and sometimes people are put off by my intensity. I can't help who I am. I speak the Truth, and share what I know, that others may be spared the grief that I endured.

I haven't ridden an Airhead since I sold mine in 2000 to get the K12LT, but I still care about Airheads, because I saw a lot of this Great Country from the seat of one.

If we take a little bit of the best of our friends (and enemies!) along with us for the ride, and share it with others, we are living The Way It's Supposed To Be.

God Bless you back.

Sincerely,
Brick

[88bmwJeff]

Dave,
When I replaced my head bearings, the top was a little tight as well. I just put the washers and nuts on and tightened it up. It seems to have worked well. No problems for the last two years, and the experienced gurus and mechanics have not complained about the way the bike handles.

FYI, I also sent you a private message.

[kbasa]

Thanks, guys. Greg Hutchinson came by and with a bit of sandpaper, we got it back together.

After that, it was apparent that the bearings were pretty notched, so he's coming back next week with a puller so we can do it all over again.

The stem is machined with some grooves along the center section, but there's a band that's smooth and is where the bearings sit. It's a tightish interference fit, but using the locknut, we were able to easily snug the stem to proper tightness.

Tip of the day: Greg used some sandpaper to smooth the band a bit prior to installation.

:thumb

Thanks, Greg. I owe you, man.

[88bmwJeff]

Thanks, guys. Greg Hutchinson came by and with a bit of sandpaper, we got it back together.

After that, it was apparent that the bearings were pretty notched, so he's coming back next week with a puller so we can do it all over again.

The stem is machined with some grooves along the center section, but there's a band that's smooth and is where the bearings sit. It's a tightish interference fit, but using the locknut, we were able to easily snug the stem to proper tightness.

Tip of the day: Greg used some sandpaper to smooth the band a bit prior to installation.

:thumb

Thanks, Greg. I owe you, man.

Greg's a good guy. I've bumped into him a few times at airhead tech days.

[rocketman]

Thanks for your input!

Please do not misunderstand my serious tone as a personal criticism. I don't do personal criticism because it is not only rude, but non-productive. Anything I say is meant to be constructive. My tone is serious because I have spent 20+ years of frustration in trying to properly make people aware of just how extensive and potentially hazardous is this problem, with little success and nothing to show for my efforts.

Ride Safely,
Brick


It could also be the fact you use a larger size type, which is sometimes interpreted as shouting.

RM

[20774]

It could also be the fact you use a larger size type, which is sometimes interpreted as shouting.

RM

See rule #5 at http://192.107.108.56/portfolios/r/ryter_m/Safety/netique.html.

:hide

[rocketman]

See rule #5 at http://192.107.108.56/portfolios/r/ryter_m/Safety/netique.html.

:hide

yeah yeah, I don't need no stinkin' rules... :laugh

actually I was just going by the fact that like ALL CAPS!!! larger text can be seen in the same vain since part of what makes ALL CAPS appear as SHOUTING is pretty much the same since its larger, see? :stick

nothing more than an observation, take it for what its worth....:brow

RM

[brickrider]

It could also be the fact you use a larger size type, which is sometimes interpreted as shouting.

RM

Rocket,

I had always understood that capital letters were meant to convey tone as shouting, unless one used an extemely large typeface.

So in the various posts of this thread, there are a few places where I used capital letters which were meant to be, um, more emphasis. :) The problems that this steering head bearing issue on R bikes have given to far too many unknowing riders make me want to scream primal something fierce...even more so when I feel that I have been ignored after all the effort given. Mostly I want to scream at the factory (like they're gonna listen).

It's not that anyone should listen just because I said it - not at all! It's because the whole episode of learning the hard way about these bearing-to-steering-stem-wrong-sizes cost me 2 riding seasons' worth of grief as well as nearly some of my hide. So sometimes I get frustrated at the perception of not getting the message through, because it ain't about my wisdom (or lack thereof) - it's about your hide if your Airhead has this problem.

I was using Arial Font Size 3. This is Times New Roman 4.

Point well taken. I will do the link reading supplied by 20774 next.

Thanks for the heads up!

Brick

[kbasa]

Rocket,



I was using Arial Font Size 3. This is Times New Roman 4.



Why not just use the default typeface?

If you want to emphasize a word, you can highlight it, then click the "B" or "I", which will bold or italicize the word. :)

Back to steering head bearings installation, while the stem is too big to just push the bearing on, some light sanding and using the locknut and hook tool, the bearing went right on without difficulty.

This is different than, if I recall, any of the K75s or Hondas I've done this process on.

[brickrider]

...while the stem is too big to just push the bearing on, ...

Well, that's my point exactly.

The stem is not supposed to be too big that you can't push the bearing on. You should be able to slide it down on the stem to fully contact the race 100% with the tip of one finger. The clearance between the two is supposed to be at least .002", meaning that with the tree out of the bike, the top bearing, when dry (without any grease), should slide all the way down to the bottom bearing easily and without catching any metal anywhere. That's the same way that the outer bearing goes on the front disc brake rotor of a car - the bearing slides over the axle without any tight spots whatsoever.

If there is any tightness, adjustments with that thin adjuster nut will not be correct, leaving an ever-so-slight gap between the bearing race and the rollers. This gap will slam together with every bump in the road, eventually ruining the bearing. May not happen right away, but it will. In the meantime, because the rollers are not fully contacting the race 100% of the time, steering control is affected.

You've probably got your bike reassembled, so test me by trying this: Go out on the freeway, lock on the throttle stop, and gently let go of the handlebars. If the bike feels rock solid beneath you, if you can change lanes at will with body english, and the bike feels like it would run forever straight down the road, problem solved.

If, when you let go of the handlebars, you feel like the bike heads for the ditch with a mind of its own (too much bearing preload), or the handlebars start wiggling with even the slightest wiggle (too little bearing preload), then the steering bearing adjustment is not correct.

As new steering head bearings get "seated in", the decreased preload will produce that distinct "handlebar wiggle" gaining prominance over time as you hold with very light fingertip pressure on the handlebars, or with hands off handlebars. Time for readjustment.

I insist upon this definition for Airheads because I wish everyone a safe journey.

Ride Safely,

BrickRider

[beemerguru]

There was the tiniest bit of interference when we assembled the front end..Like Dave said, this was less than a one-finger job.

That said, I know what you mean that the upper bearing should ride freely on the stem. In this case, the difference was negligible... and yes, the bike will ride down the road in a straight line with no hands :laugh.

[brickrider]

There was the tiniest bit of interference when we assembled the front end..Like Dave said, this was less than a one-finger job.

That said, I know what you mean that the upper bearing should ride freely on the stem. In this case, the difference was negligible... and yes, the bike will ride down the road in a straight line with no hands :laugh.

Great!

My Sincerest Wish is that every Airhead owner thoroughly understand this vital issue for maximum possible safety and enjoyment of The Journey.

Ride Safely,

BrickRider

[rocketman]

Rocket,

I had always understood that capital letters were meant to convey tone as shouting, unless one used an extemely large typeface.

So in the various posts of this thread, there are a few places where I used capital letters which were meant to be, um, more emphasis. :) The problems that this steering head bearing issue on R bikes have given to far too many unknowing riders make me want to scream primal something fierce...even more so when I feel that I have been ignored after all the effort given. Mostly I want to scream at the factory (like they're gonna listen).

It's not that anyone should listen just because I said it - not at all! It's because the whole episode of learning the hard way about these bearing-to-steering-stem-wrong-sizes cost me 2 riding seasons' worth of grief as well as nearly some of my hide. So sometimes I get frustrated at the perception of not getting the message through, because it ain't about my wisdom (or lack thereof) - it's about your hide if your Airhead has this problem.

I was using Arial Font Size 3. This is Times New Roman 4.

Point well taken. I will do the link reading supplied by 20774 next.

Thanks for the heads up!

Brick

No big deal and glad you did not take it as other than intended. I'll keep your thoughts in mind on the bearing race next time I do mine, thou I have not had any problems as yet since they were redone some 5 years ago. guess I'm more of a "don't fix it if it ain't broke" kinda guy!

I wil most likelyl look it over this winter as its time to do a major overhaul on the machine in general as its now got somewhere around 170K and its been a good five years since the last one, always seem like there is another ride to do first.... :lol

RM

ademdum

well in re-reading this thread I was thinking that Dave as asking about the race that goes in the upper steering head of the frame not the one that slides onto the steering stem of the forks, Ha Ha, my bad....

[38420]

Going over most all of data on proper steering head grease to use your article is only one of two that actually state a brand. e.g. "For reassembly I used "red grease" a still commonly used wheel bearing grease by Pennzoil." The other one showed a can of white lith grease which didn't seem right at all. So I have a question concerning "DRUM brake wheel bearing grease". Is it a good grease to use? Seems like it would be due to it's tendancy to stick together. What do you say?

[85K100LT]

"Drum brake Wheel Bearing grease" No such thing.

Wheel bearing is Wheel bearing grease. Bikes, Cars, whatever has wheels.

Brakes are not a consideration or issue. Steering head bearings on the airheads (most other bikes) are same as Wheel bearing but used for Steering bearing.


So yes use wheel bearing grease.


This is an older thread but interesting on the steering stem issue. Older airheads did have a "Tank Slapper" issue why the LWB swingarm started in 74. But Who knows the real problem?? This could be it.

[mike54]

"Drum brake Wheel Bearing grease" No such thing.

Wheel bearing is Wheel bearing grease. Bikes, Cars, whatever has wheels.

Brakes are not a consideration or issue. Steering head bearings on the airheads (most other bikes) are same as Wheel bearing but used for Steering bearing.


So yes use wheel bearing grease.


This is an older thread but interesting on the steering stem issue. Older airheads did have a "Tank Slapper" issue why the LWB swingarm started in 74. But Who knows the real problem?? This could be it.

Last time I went to get wheel bearing grease (about a month ago) there were serveral choices on the shelf. There's a high heat formula for disc brake wheels, and there's other fully synth formulas. I suppose the the non-high heat formula could be called drum brake grease. For steering head bearings I'd be more concerned about using a water proof grease. I don't think heat would be a factor in that usage.

[85K100LT]

Last time I went to get wheel bearing grease (about a month ago) there were serveral choices on the shelf. There's a high heat formula for disc brake wheels, and there's other fully synth formulas. I suppose the the non-high heat formula could be called drum brake grease. For steering head bearings I'd be more concerned about using a water proof grease. I don't think heat would be a factor in that usage.

YES there is not a generic "Wheel bearing Grease" package its called marketing, looks pretty or has some special BS to make you buy it!!! Marketing - open your eyes!!!:nyah