Newbie R1150RT Valve question

[scott807]

Hi,

New convert from the metric ranks......

I learned how to check my oil last weekend (there is a process to this on the boxer....) but am coming up on the 12,000 mile service which includes valve checks - was curious about how these bikes actually hold the valve tolerances. Am having no issues/noises - but after an ST1100 and an FJR1300 both with xx,xxx valve intervals - 6,000 seems pretty often.

Thanks for your input,

Scott

[kitze2]

Hi,

New convert from the metric ranks......

I learned how to check my oil last weekend (there is a process to this on the boxer....) but am coming up on the 12,000 mile service which includes valve checks - was curious about how these bikes actually hold the valve tolerances. Am having no issues/noises - but after an ST1100 and an FJR1300 both with xx,xxx valve intervals - 6,000 seems pretty often.

Thanks for your input,

Scott

Welcome Scott

Don't sweat the valves. I've done 'em a few times on my RT. I can do 'em in less than two hours total. And that includes a bit of time for :drink . I had a couple that were at the edge of tolerances the first time I did 'em. They haven't changed at all in the last 15000 miles.
One of the big pluses for the RT for me was the ease of maintenance. Boxers are simple, low tech and indestructible. They do require more routine maintenance than some other bikes. But they're so easy to work on. Try doing the valves on an FJR13! Ouch.

There are tons of guides available here and on other sites to walk you through it. Do a google search.

Enjoy

[Troutluck]

New convert from the metric ranks......

BMWs aren't metric? No wonder I've been rounding so many nuts!

Ditto on the ease of adjustment. Kinda fun once you get over the (unwarranted) fear of accidentally creating an expensive metal sculpture.

[glennhendricks]

I've owned 6 BMW cages and two bikes.

So far.:whistle

The cage maintenance program is nutz, very detailed and seems a little excessive.

Then you read about 2002's with 250,000 miles on them. My 1996 740iL has 188,000 miles on it and it runs very well. The maintenance has been done for the most part and I really think that attention to detail has helped keep it running.

The same goes for the bikes, if you follow the maintenance schedule you'll maximize the life of the bike and have a more consistent and better ride.

My .02 Euros.:laugh

[bikerfish1100]

Welcome Scott

Don't sweat the valves. I've done 'em a few times on my RT. I can do 'em in less than two hours total. And that includes a bit of time for :drink .



Enjoy

2 hours? for valve check and adjustment? dude, you did not have :drink , you must have had :drink :drink :drink :drink

45 mins, tools out to tools in, and that should include playing with the radio, a :drink along the way, and clean up.

[kitze2]

2 hours? for valve check and adjustment? dude, you did not have :drink , you must have had :drink :drink :drink :drink

45 mins, tools out to tools in, and that should include playing with the radio, a :drink along the way, and clean up.


Maybe :drink :drink
But certainly not :drink :drink :drink :drink
But two hours ain't bad. Ya gotta get the radio going.
Sweep the floor.
Find the work stool. How it ends up next to the plum tree all the time I'll never know.
Get all the tools out.
Flip through the craftsman catalog.
Then the snap-on catalog.
Take off the plastics. Wipe down all those little nooks and crannies that are exposed when you strip the bike.
Look up the factory valve clearances in the manual again. Who knows maybe they've changed since last time. Idly read the section on rebuilding the transmission.
Pull the plugs. Contemplate changing them.
Remove valve covers.
Open the :drink
Rotate the cams to TDC. Do that several times. Pretty cool stuff to watch.
Check clearances.
Rotate the cams again. Yup that's pretty neat!
All good.
Make a note of date, mileage and clearances.
Flip through previous notes. Wow have I really done that many oil changes?
Examine the plugs again.
Put the covers back on.
Examine the plugs again. Look pretty good and not too many miles...put them back.
Oh hell. Go on and do it. Gap new plugs. Install them.
Wipe everything clean. Clean up the spilled :drink Next to the front tire was a silly place to put it.
Change the radio station. I thought there was a game on.
Reinstall plastics.
Curse the gravel Gods for all those little chips in the paint.
Put away tools.


Of course that's just a quick run down. Several small steps omitted. As an example...Search for one of the ten sets of feeler gauges.
And contemplate the question "Do Nachos really taste better with dirty hands"

Remember.. It's not the destination it's the journey that matters

[SNC1923]

. . . . was curious about how these bikes actually hold the valve tolerances.

WELCOME to the forum!

Mine rarely needed adjusting. They seem to hold well. Usually it was the exhaust valve, forget which side, on my bike. In any case, as others have said (and I'm no mechanic, believe me) it's a no sweat job.

Good luck!

[bikerfish1100]

Maybe :drink :drink
But certainly not :drink :drink :drink :drink
But two hours ain't bad. Ya gotta get the radio going.
Sweep the floor.
Find the work stool. How it ends up next to the plum tree all the time I'll never know.
Get all the tools out.
Flip through the craftsman catalog.
Then the snap-on catalog.
Take off the plastics. Wipe down all those little nooks and crannies that are exposed when you strip the bike.
Look up the factory valve clearances in the manual again. Who knows maybe they've changed since last time. Idly read the section on rebuilding the transmission.
Pull the plugs. Contemplate changing them.
Remove valve covers.
Open the :drink
Rotate the cams to TDC. Do that several times. Pretty cool stuff to watch.
Check clearances.
Rotate the cams again. Yup that's pretty neat!
All good.
Make a note of date, mileage and clearances.
Flip through previous notes. Wow have I really done that many oil changes?
Examine the plugs again.
Put the covers back on.
Examine the plugs again. Look pretty good and not too many miles...put them back.
Oh hell. Go on and do it. Gap new plugs. Install them.
Wipe everything clean. Clean up the spilled :drink Next to the front tire was a silly place to put it.
Change the radio station. I thought there was a game on.
Reinstall plastics.
Curse the gravel Gods for all those little chips in the paint.
Put away tools.


Of course that's just a quick run down. Several small steps omitted. As an example...Search for one of the ten sets of feeler gauges.
And contemplate the question "Do Nachos really taste better with dirty hands"

Remember.. It's not the destination it's the journey that matters

oh, well that's very different. nevermind.
in fact, all that would take me about 3 days to get thru!!

and yes, nachos improve with 20W50 residue- but only if it's organic dino. synth is not appropriate, and certainly not auto synth. stuff is way too slippery, slides right off the nachos, even with beans and meat in there.

[scott807]

Thanks guys - as I just got the bike at 11,400 miles will probably take it in and let the dealership go through it soon, then will take it from there.

Appreciate the feedback!

Scott
Indianapolis

[brownsrx]

So I took the plunge and attempted the valve check every thing was going well until I had the cover off, TDC located and then I could not figure were to stick the gauge.

I am not sure where the valve stem ends and the adjustment screw begins. Does anyone have close up pictures? Like someone has stated before I really do not want an expensive metal sculpture in my garage.

Thanks

Scott Brown

[kgadley01]

So I took the plunge and attempted the valve check every thing was going well until I had the cover off, TDC located and then I could not figure were to stick the gauge.

I am not sure where the valve stem ends and the adjustment screw begins. Does anyone have close up pictures? Like someone has stated before I really do not want an expensive metal sculpture in my garage.

Thanks

Scott Brown

you can't be serious.

[Mr. Frank]

When you have found TDC the rockers on one side will have some slack and will be able to move a bit. You should be able to see the gap open up between the rocker and the valve stem. That is where the feeler goes.

[brownsrx]

you can't be serious.

Yes, I am serious. I would rather ask an painfully obvious question than damage my bike. So sorry for offending you.

Thank you MrFrank for answering my question. I found TDC and no gap. Does that mean it is adjusted to tight? I was working intake on left side. I have a Hanyes manual and have a very mechanical background, but I have never done a valve job.

Thanks
S

[Mr. Frank]

The side you should work on is the one that has play. Try to pull the ends of the rockers in and out. One side will be loose. It's unlikely that both sides are tight. Be sure you really are at TDC. One check is that the arrows on the cam chain sprockets are pointing outward, and they are parallel to the ground. When you finish the loose side you will rotate the engine to the next TDC and the other side will have play. If none of this works, it's time to get a friend to help.

[bikerfish1100]

when you find TDC, one side (L or R) will be unmovable, the other will have play. measure gap on the side that has play.
there are multiple methods for finding TDC and setting valve clearances (a "valve job" entails replacing valves, guides, etc.. not a mere adjustment, btw).
i, and others, like this method best-
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=273172&perpage=20&highlight=adjusting%20valves&pagenumber=2

[Troutluck]

I think this has good pictures. Pretty entertaining read, too.

http://elmi.de/valve-dummies.pdf

[brownsrx]

Thanks for your help!

[bikerfish1100]

I think this has good pictures. Pretty entertaining read, too.

http://elmi.de/valve-dummies.pdf

that link gives you the advriders "valve adjustment for dummies" pdf.
enjoyably written, good pics, but he wastes your time by having you use the timing plug hole/flywheel mark & the allen bolt under the alternator cover. both are unnecessary & bothersome. put bike in 6th gear, rear wheel off the ground, and just turn the wheel to find TDC. Look for the arrows on the side face of the cam timing gear, as delineated in the Pelicanparts writeup- it reall is easier, and no chance of losing the timing hole plug. the rest of it is worthwhile.

[kgadley01]

Yes, I am serious. I would rather ask an painfully obvious question than damage my bike. So sorry for offending you.

Thank you MrFrank for answering my question. I found TDC and no gap. Does that mean it is adjusted to tight? I was working intake on left side. I have a Hanyes manual and have a very mechanical background, but I have never done a valve job.

Thanks
S

you didn't offend me. sorry about my smart comeback. I would try and find another rider that lives nearby and do it together the first time. wisdom passed on is a wonderfull thing. good luck...

[PAGoldsby]

you didn't offend me. sorry about my smart comeback. I would try and find another rider that lives nearby and do it together the first time. wisdom passed on is a wonderfull thing. good luck...This.

The first time I ran Ducati valves, I did it with a neighbor, after he made me watch the video. Took a couple of hours. The second time, I watched the video again, then did them myself. Took a little over an hour. The third time, I did them myself, and changed the cam belts. Took about 45 minutes. The next few times, I could run the valves in 30 minutes. Of course, with a Ducati, over time one amasses quite a collection of shims of various thickness. Not an issue with a BMW. Whew.

[brownsrx]

you didn't offend me. sorry about my smart comeback. I would try and find another rider that lives nearby and do it together the first time. wisdom passed on is a wonderfull thing. good luck...

No worries, thanks for the advice.

S