Finally a "real" failure of my K75

[Gilly]

Had to push it home, luckily only a few blocks, when the clutch cable broke. Last time (only time) I had to push it was after the fuel pump damper wasn't put back together right and I "ran" it out of fuel (actually I DID have fuel but the pump couldn't reach it).
Mileage on original clutch cable 94,040
Any advice for cable replacement? I am seeing the tank come off I assume, and some of the plastic stuff around the bars I'm sure.
Gilly

[Bobmws]

Follow the routing of the stock cable carefully. Don't get overzealous securing it with zip ties, it needs to move a bit. Be sure to grease the barrel in the hand lever.

[35634]

beemerboneyard has good replacement cables $22.50. I ride with a spare,
but the slickest trick I've heard of (in bmwmoa mag no less) is when you
replace the cable, run the spare alongside it. Then, 100k from now when
that cable breaks just switch the ends, adjust and zoom into the sunset.

[98lee]

Remove the plastic cover that bolts to the upper triple clamp.

Release the frame cable tie at the right front of the gas tank.

Pull the cable and rubber bellows on the tranny end through the hole in the tranny housing.

Tape the upper end of the new cable to the lower end of the old cable. Use lots of tape to ensure that there is no exposed edge (bellows, lower barrel, end of new cable) that will get caught on anything.

Pull new cable through frame by pulling old cable up and out.

Move adjuster, barrel (if it didn't fall out on the road when the cable broke), and wiper to new cable.

LUBE BARREL AT LEVER!!!!

Adjust new cable.

Replace plastic cover on triple clamp.

Have a beer.

Elapsed time 20 min. (not counting the beer.)


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[Gilly]

Thanks all. So Lee, you are saying just leave the tank on? I was suspecting there would be more cable clamps under the tank, but if not I can see what you are saying should work fine.
Gilly

[98lee]

The only factory wire ties should be to the frame under the right front of the tank and under the left battery cover. On an S you should be able to just barely get to it without removing anything. The one below the battery cover is the same style and is easy to get to. You can pop the part that is holding the cable loose and then reattach it. You should not have to remove the tank.


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[swbell]

the only thing I would add and have seen done is put some vasline on the new cable, it will pull through eaiser.

[Gilly]

Thanks I'll try it. Removing the tank doesn't intimidate me in the least but OTOH if I can finagle (SP?) it without I'm all for it. Clutch cable showed up today so should be able to attack it in the next 2 days.
Will have an extra beer for my tech posse here if it works!
I think I know what you mean about the wire ties, the reuseable ones if you know how to undo them, I love those things! I used to work on Mercedes and, well, when MB was REALLY MB they used these alot also (not any more! zip zip, snip snip)
Gilly

[98lee]

I would be hesitant of putting anything on the cable that would attract road grime (vasaline). You should not need it. I've done three this year with no problem.


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[Gilly]

Or one thing I consider a "handy mans secret weapon" is soapy water. I keep it mixed up in an old window cleaner spray bottle. 1001 uses, thing like what we are talking about here, or finding a leak in a tire, or maybe cleaning fingerprints off of something. Putting out small fires........trails off............

Gilly

[Gilly]

The taping-together idea worked great!
By the barrel, I thought you meant inside the adjuster. After rereading I realize you meant the part inside the lever itself. I did clean it really well but no lube, can I just put a few drops of oil on it from on top, or should I remve the barrel and smear it with grease?
Inside the adjuster "barrel" there was a small felt tube which seemed to have been oiled at one time, I did soak that in 3 in 1 oil and reinstalled it on the cable end.
Other than that, I broke the bottom cable tie. It is different than the MB ones, just a loop with holes and a small button that snaps into the hole. Will have to see if I can get another one, but actually seems fine without it.
There is only maybe a little over a foot where you don't really know where the taped-together cables are, while under the tank. Pulled through really nice and can't thank you all enough for the suggestion, made short work of this job for sure.
Gilly

[98lee]

Take a long screwdriver and pry the clutch bellcrank up so that you can release the tranny end of the clutch cable. Then pop the barrel out of the clutch lever and grease it and the hole in the lever liberally. Reinstall everything and wipe off any visible grease.

The most common cause of clutch cable failure is that the barrel fails to easily rotate in the lever. When that happens it causes the cable to bend right where the cable goes into the swage on the lever end of the cable. That is why the cable almost always breaks right there.

Grease that barrel often. It's cheap insurance.


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[98lee]

P.S.

I've told you before, it's NOT MY cat!!!


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[Gilly]

Thanks man. I see what you mean now and yeah I had to really wap that barrel down to get it to drop out, so I am sure that's what caused the failure. WELL, that and 94000 miles worth of pulling on the clutch lever. Ohhhh Kay, I see what you mean now.
Hardest part was getting that little "gaiter" on the bottom through the oblong hole. Removal was no big deal, I just cut it off with a scissors, wanted to keep the new one nice so took longer.
Gilly

[Kayseventyfive]

The most common cause of clutch cable failure is that the barrel fails to easily rotate in the lever. When that happens it causes the cable to bend right where the cable goes into the swage on the lever end of the cable. That is why the cable almost always breaks right there.

Grease that barrel often. It's cheap insurance.


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The lack of a chain to oil regularly gives BMW riders a false sense of security. The barrel doesn't need oiling as often as a chain, but it still needs a drop of chain lube now and then. I loosen my lever base and rotate it to expose the barrel so the chain oil can run down in. A little where the cable enters the housing helps, too. I let it sit to penetrate and set up into grease, then wipe clean and reposition and tighten. Sidestands like chain lube, too.

Even a shaft drive motorcycle can't cure me of my chain lube addiction.

[Gilly]

Took it apart as described and cleaned out the hole in the lever and greased er up. Feels nicer now, you can feel the difference. I can see the barrel rotate in the hole when pulling the lever, so learned a good lesson here. Jus tthink if I had known this I might STILL be running the original cable!
Gilly