2007 R1200RT Headamp

[Spowell]

The right low beam & Highbeam on my 2007 R1200RT are burned out. This is my first BMW and I would appreciate any suggestions on where the bulbs could be obtained. Im about 50 miles from a BMW dealer & would like to locate the bulbs locally if possible.

Thanks in advance.

Steve Powell

[marcopolo]

They're both H-7 bulbs, and while you can get them at a BMW dealer, you're also likely to find them at any auto parts store. Be prepared for a bit of a pain replacing them, especially if you don't have small hands. They (the three bulbs) get progressively harder to change as you go from left to right (as seated on the bike).

[Sailorlite]

I bought a spare H7 at WalMart for about $10.

[Greenwald]

Plan a trip to your BMW dealer soon, and WATCH them install the bulbs. It will be an excellent tutorial on a difficult task, and make you better prepared for doing it yourself someday on the road.

It's not easy!!

Good Luck!

[dsenn]

If you are out on the road and need a headlight as I did, auto parts store did not have it but Freightliner trucks use the same F7.

[dancogan]

My dealer had a mechanic replace my low beams. The guy was small in stature and it still took him over 30 minutes to change two bulbs! Good dealer, though-BMW of SE Michigan, didn't charge for labor. I was happy and amazed.

[marcopolo]

If you are out on the road and need a headlight as I did, auto parts store did not have it but Freightliner trucks use the same F7.

Assume you meant H-7.

[marcopolo]

My dealer had a mechanic replace my low beams. The guy was small in stature and it still took him over 30 minutes to change two bulbs! Good dealer, though-BMW of SE Michigan, didn't charge for labor. I was happy and amazed.


I have changed mine (first time it took me about 90 minutes elapsed time for both low beams, but that included time to "cool off" in the middle of the job). I changed them a second time recently (switched to Osram Silverstars from Eurpoe). That job took noticeably less time, though I cheated and had my wife do the right side. Both of those bulbs blew after only six weeks (and about 8,500 miles) while the bike was at my independent tech's for routine maintenance (no funny stuff, as I was standing beside him as he started the bike to do the TB sync, and two "bulb out" icons appeared on the display). I was carrying two spare OEM bulbs on the bike, and he installed those in about 90 seconds per side! When he did the right side, he was actually facing the rear of the bike, and reaching back towards the front of the bike with his right arm, doing it essentially by feel.

I always carry two spare H-7s on the bike.

I had no trouble finding two GE H-7 bulbs ("H7-55/BP")at an auto parts store just down the road from my tech's garage. These GE bulbs are made in Hungary, and have identical markings to one of the OEM BMW bulbs I had had in there earlier.

[Ctrod]

and he installed those in about 90 seconds per side!
He did this without taking the fairing apart? Did he reach up from underneth the fairing?
I have to change the right side bulb on mine and I wasn't looking forward to doing it before I read this tread. Now:bottle

[marcopolo]

He did this without taking the fairing apart? Did he reach up from underneth the fairing?
I have to change the right side bulb on mine and I wasn't looking forward to doing it before I read this tread. Now:bottle

He didn't remove anything, nor did he reach up from underneath. It was a sight to see.

If you're doing the right, I'd do the left first as practice (it's a little easier then the right side).

[cwsenn]

I changed out both of my low beams. The bulbs were available at every auto parts/Walmart store I walked into.
The entire job took about 20 minutes and I am sure i could do it ten minutes now. I do not have small hands but am determined to do things myself when I can.
Just do it and you will learn how so when you are out and need one it's no big deal.

Chuck

[dzimbric]

Bet it isn't the bulb(s). The odds of having both lamps go out at the same time is pretty remote. I still have my original hi beam and am on my third low beam bulb in 32,000 miles. Now I get a headlight warning but the bulb is good. The CAN bus decided to kill the circuit.

[gulfcoastbeemer]

Although it's not as easy as it should be, I've found I can change the bulbs on my R1200RT fairly quickly aided by one simple tool -- a hemostat.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b9/Hemostats.jpg

Here's the way I go about this -- others may have a better way.

Before you begin, look into the front of the headlamp lens and note the position of the old bulb's filaments. This way you will know what a properly installed bulb looks like.

With the bike on the centerstand, I turn handlebars so I can squeeze one hand down into the area behind the headlamp assembly. Except where noted, I do the entire task totally by feel.

1. Remove the appropriate bulb's round outer cover from the rear of the lens assembly by simply turning it counterclockwise, and set it aside.

2. Gently pull off the wiring socket from the bulb, and move the wiring to one side.

3. Unhook the bulb retaining spring -- both sides -- by pushing the two "legs" of the "M" shaped retaining spring forward and then outward from the "locking notch" in the headlamp assembly.

4. Move the retaining spring back, fully out of your way, and remove the old bulb. Note the orientation of the old bulb's base tab as you remove it. This will be key to the installation process. (I believe the tab faces upward -- but can't say I remember for sure.)

5. Being careful not to touch the glass portion of the new bulb, clip the hemostat onto one of the bulb's two electrical prongs. This will allow you to position the bulb more easily during the installation process.

6. Get comfortable. Sit on something in front of the bike so you to look into the front of the headlamp lens while you insert the new bulb (properly aligned) into the rear of the headlamp lens assembly aided by the hemostat. (I think this is the hardest part of the job.)

7. Once you have the bulb inserted properly, maintain enough forward pressure to keep the bulb seated and in place, and then hook the retain clip back in position.

If you have done this properly, the bulb will be aligned in the headlamp assembly with the filament in the same position as the old bulb.

8. With the bulb locked in place, you can remove the hemostat, reconnect the electrical socket onto the bulb, and install the outer cover.

For me, the key thing is to do this process mostly by feel -- getting a little help from the hemostat.

[markgoodrich]

I just replaced both low beams recently. It's not as horrible as I thought it would be. The directions in the owner's manual will help...a little.

I made the mistake of buying "super ultra" blubs, or somesuch label, a mistake because despite the fact they cost many times more than the basic H7, they neither improve lighting nor last as long as the basic H7. There is a better bulb, but it's mainly available in Europe, and hey, you didn't know you needed them until I mentioned them. Just go with the basic blub, and you'll be fine.

[gened12]

Plan a trip to your BMW dealer soon, and WATCH them install the bulbs. It will be an excellent tutorial on a difficult task, and make you better prepared for doing it yourself someday on the road.

It's not easy!!

Good Luck!

I followed your advice and took my RT to the dealer to learn how they change the bulbs. First they put the bike on the lift and connected a battery tender. Then they connected the diagnostic plug to see if the burned bulbs were really the problem. Then they had problem with the BMW diagnostic software, so they disconnected the bike and re-connected a new computer. Still did not tell them the bulbs were burned out. so the disconnected the battery tender, re-connected the battery and tried to light the beams. the lights did not come on and there was a little warning light on the LCD display indicating a burned bulb. So after a 10 minute discussion with the service manager they went to their morning break. 15 minutes later they came back and told me they would attempt a bulb replacement procedure.

I was excited! until they told me I was not allowed in the service area because of insurance thing...

I reluctantly went to the waiting area but noticed a window and if I could line up my head just right against the wall I could catch a glimpse of the elusive procedure. All was not lost and I smirked at my cleverness.... So here it went!

1. Remove both seats
2. remove lower and upper fairings on both sides
3. Remove windshield
4. Remove dash
5. Remove electronic modules
6. Remove little covers on the lights,
7. Perform a strange dance accompanied by lots of swearing. (OK I could not see what was going on besides seeing the technician with his hand trapped inside the light wells. ( I also heard something abaout a #@@$%*** spring but did not really know what he was ranting about....
8. Repeat for the other bulbs
9. Once finished repeat steps 6 to 1 in reverse.

So I get my bill for 1.5 hours at 85$ an hour plus 35$ twice for the 2 bulbs and an extra 15$ in shop materials ( I questioned this and found out that it was Vaseline to get the fingers inside the light wells and bandaids for the srapes they got removing the fingers from the same wells) Adding taxes the total came to $327.89! But I almost learned something!

:laugh :laugh :laugh OK I was just screwing around (this never happened) but replacing the bulbs on a R1200RT is an experience in frustration big time. With patience and a stubborn mind anyone can eventually get it done.

Cheers

Denis R1200RT :laugh :laugh :laugh

[Greenwald]

Dear gened12:

I really did go to a local dealer (Milwaukee BMW) and after purchasing an $18 replacement bulb, was allowed to watch the install. Poor engineering and too little room to work beneath the dash made for a time-consuming, frustrating experience.

When I rule the world, this component will be redesigned.

Then, after just a couple of blocks, I got a computer warning that the bulb was again burnt out. The mechanic had touched the bulb's glass with his finger, and the resulting patch of moisture/dirt/salt resulted in an overheated spot and the new bulb blew.

They replaced it without question, so I got to watch it a second time, and there was NO CHARGE for all their efforts - very nice!

Though your 'experience' was ficticious, mine was 'real-world' and by most standards, not an easy job at all.

[bmwmoose]

Both of those bulbs blew after only six weeks (and about 8,500 miles)

When you installed the bulbs, you didn't touch them with your fingers, did you?

[gened12]

Dear gened12:

I really did go to a local dealer (Milwaukee BMW) and after purchasing an $18 replacement bulb, was allowed to watch the install. Poor engineering and too little room to work beneath the dash made for a time-consuming, frustrating experience.

When I rule the world, this component will be redesigned.

Then, after just a couple of blocks, I got a computer warning that the bulb was again burnt out. The mechanic had touched the bulb's glass with his finger, and the resulting patch of moisture/dirt/salt resulted in an overheated spot and the new bulb blew.

They replaced it without question, so I got to watch it a second time, and there was NO CHARGE for all their efforts - very nice!

Though your 'experience' was ficticious, mine was 'real-world' and by most standards, not an easy job at all.

Hi Greenwald,

I was just having a little fun. I have replaced all 3 factory bulbs with PIAAs super white H7 and I know for a fact that although the procedure is straight forward, it requires a lot of patience and tiny hands to get it done. Not an easy job at all, but doable.

cheers and have a pint on me...:drink

[marcopolo]

When you installed the bulbs, you didn't touch them with your fingers, did you?

No. Not a chance.

[PlaneGeek]

Although it's not as easy as it should be, I've found I can change the bulbs on my R1200RT fairly quickly aided by one simple tool -- a hemostat.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b9/Hemostats.jpg

Here's the way I go about this -- others may have a better way.

Before you begin, look into the front of the headlamp lens and note the position of the old bulb's filaments. This way you will know what a properly installed bulb looks like.

With the bike on the centerstand, I turn handlebars so I can squeeze one hand down into the area behind the headlamp assembly. Except where noted, I do the entire task totally by feel.

1. Remove the appropriate bulb's round outer cover from the rear of the lens assembly by simply turning it counterclockwise, and set it aside.

2. Gently pull off the wiring socket from the bulb, and move the wiring to one side.

3. Unhook the bulb retaining spring -- both sides -- by pushing the two "legs" of the "M" shaped retaining spring forward and then outward from the "locking notch" in the headlamp assembly.

4. Move the retaining spring back, fully out of your way, and remove the old bulb. Note the orientation of the old bulb's base tab as you remove it. This will be key to the installation process. (I believe the tab faces upward -- but can't say I remember for sure.)

5. Being careful not to touch the glass portion of the new bulb, clip the hemostat onto one of the bulb's two electrical prongs. This will allow you to position the bulb more easily during the installation process.

6. Get comfortable. Sit on something in front of the bike so you to look into the front of the headlamp lens while you insert the new bulb (properly aligned) into the rear of the headlamp lens assembly aided by the hemostat. (I think this is the hardest part of the job.)

7. Once you have the bulb inserted properly, maintain enough forward pressure to keep the bulb seated and in place, and then hook the retain clip back in position.

If you have done this properly, the bulb will be aligned in the headlamp assembly with the filament in the same position as the old bulb.

8. With the bulb locked in place, you can remove the hemostat, reconnect the electrical socket onto the bulb, and install the outer cover.

For me, the key thing is to do this process mostly by feel -- getting a little help from the hemostat.


This was a huge help! :thumb And I never new that was what that thingy was called. I always new it as "the thing that removed the lure from the trout that I just caught." :wave Thanks again for the info!

[MPMARTY]

More than a year ago I got tired of replacing my low beam H7s and bought an HID kit with two H7 equivalent bulbs, ballasts and wiring harnesses for less than fifty bucks. My oem H7s and their various replacements never lasted more than six weeks or so. The HIDs are still going strong and what a difference in light output!:clap

[RTFlyer]

This was a huge help! :thumb And I never new that was what that thingy was called. I always new it as "the thing that removed the lure from the trout that I just caught." :wave Thanks again for the info!

And all along I called it a roach clip!:bolt

[Arkyride]

More than a year ago I got tired of replacing my low beam H7s and bought an HID kit with two H7 equivalent bulbs, ballasts and wiring harnesses for less than fifty bucks. My oem H7s and their various replacements never lasted more than six weeks or so. The HIDs are still going strong and what a difference in light output!:clap

Will the RT Canbus system handle the startup draw of 2 HID's without throwing a code? I converted the low beam only of my GS and never had a problem, and would like to switch the RT also. I considered putting the transformers behind the empty speaker grills--any ideas on that location? I still have half a kit left over from the GS ( it was the cheap Chinese VVMI ) and never had a bit of problem. ;)