Rear wheel turns at idle on centerstand

[SteveSellers]

I am new to the world of BMW and am researching as much data as possible. I recently bought a '96 RT and love it. Before I ride, I start it while on the center stand and let it idle at 1000 rpm for 3-5 minutes. I have heard the horror stories of melting the tupperware, so I have been very careful.

My question is on the rear wheel turning while at idle in neutral. My Clymer's service manual had two measurements for the clutch lever to check, and mine were perfect. Any ideas?

Oh, thanks for the friendly and informative folks on MOA forums...other forums I have read reek of arrogance and smarta** responses.

Steve Sellers

[sgborgstrom]

The rear wheel spin is normal, don't sweat it.

You shouldn't need to idle for 3-5 minutes. I believe BMW specifically says don't...pretty much as soon as the bike will run smoothly without the enrichener "on" you are good to go.

[Bob1100RTC]

My R1100RT did it and my R1200RT does it. Normal.

[redrider1100]

My '96 R1100RS does this as well.
Like you, I was a little concerned about that at first, but I was able to stop the spinning with my hand, so I didn't worry about it too much after that.

It just doesn't look right...

Paul

[moondog]

My 1996 K1100RS does it also. Don't sweat it.

[BuddingGeezer]

If you will notice, the rear wheel turning at idle is faster when the transmission oil is cold (thicker) after riding and the transmission oil gets hot the oil thins enough so the wheel will not turn idling on the center stand. More pronounced in the winter than summer. The input shaft is moving that cold thick oil, kind of like a torque converter.

Ralph Sims

[glennhendricks]

My old /5 did it too. I start up my 2000RT with me on it geared up. I don't warm it up but kill the 'choke' about 5 blocks from the house.

So far so good.

[SteveSellers]

Thanks much, folks. I'm still becoming oriented to the BMW scoot and have much to learn...but we'll try. Service facilities are many miles away and being a rancher, I don't have much time to ride for several hours for service. If any of you folks have any suggestions as to how to organize a comprehensive maintenance program for a RT, I would really appreciate it.

Hope to see you on the road...

Steve Sellers

[tommcgee]

When it happens on chain drive bike, it makes chain maintenance that much easier. :D

[BMWRich58]

Hope to see you on the road...

Plan on being in the Midland/Odessa area in July.
I'm moving my son there. Then I'll be back again in the winter riding around southern Texas,New Mexico,Arizona areas.

[GrafikFeat]

You shouldn't need to idle for 3-5 minutes. I believe BMW specifically says don't...pretty much as soon as the bike will run smoothly without the enrichener "on" you are good to go.

Ditto on that. My /5's did it... My /6's did it and my R1200c Does it.

Besides, it's air cooled. Start and go. Unless it's 32 degrees.
Then start, put on gloves and then go! :whistle

[kgadley01]

pretty much all bikes do it, ( the rear wheel turning ) even my harley W/belt drive. Over the years I always warmed my bikes for a few minutes before riding. Oilheads and air heads are different, you should not do it...

[bikerfish1100]

pretty much all bikes do it, ( the rear wheel turning ) even my harley W/belt drive. Over the years I always warmed my bikes for a few minutes before riding. Oilheads and air heads are different, you should not do it...

yes, and no. beemers should not be idled, but neither should anything else- not a car, truck, bike, chopper, not anything! only idle something long enough to pull away smoothly with the choke off. if it's FI, give it 15-30 seconds, max. saves fuel (uses it to get you somewhere rather than nowhere), no harm to engine whatsoever, better for environment, etc etc.
the "warm it up before driving/riding" is old world operations.