Sticky clutch after long term storage...

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I'm just about on the road after servicing, tuning, etc. an '83 R100. I did a couple little up the driveway runs and the clutch seems sticky, like its grabbing, in first gear or if I lug 2nd. It seems to shift fine and stay in gear without any problem (only had it to 3rd). Its got a bit under 60k on the engine, bought from an original owner.

I'm just theorizing that the bottom part of the clutch might have been soaking, and the top not, so after 8 years might be gooey?? If this is true, what's the best approach to taking care of this? Riding it? Pulling it apart?

Is it even a wet clutch...I'm at work, bored and pre-occupied with what is one of the nicer riding days we've had--but I caged it to work.

[20774]

Did you lube the splines? Maybe that's what's gooey. It might loosen up some after you get some heat into it.

The clutch system is not wet...it's supposed to be dry...if that's what you're asking. It's a system much like a car...the older cars, anyway. If the clutch plate has gottne fouled with gear oil, it could be the input seal to the tranny is leaking.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

Did you lube the splines? Maybe that's what's gooey. It might loosen up some after you get some heat into it.

The clutch system is not wet...it's supposed to be dry...if that's what you're asking. It's a system much like a car...the older cars, anyway. If the clutch plate has gottne fouled with gear oil, it could be the input seal to the tranny is leaking.

Hmmm...I had to pull the wheels to have new tires mounted, so I lubed the rear splines. I didn't touch the shaft, transmission or the final drive. I'll look at those.

Thanks.

[boxermaf]

If this is new territory for you, perhaps you can find a fellow airhead to help guide you through these steps-

I would definitely recommend pulling the transmission off, cleaning the and lubing the transmission input shaft splines and examining the clutch/friction disk/carrier assembly for signs of wear, rust, etc. Clean and examine the "inside" splines of the friction disk of the clutch assembly, but just put a thin even coat of moly-based grease on the transmission input shaft splines. Too much moly grease can be a bad thing if gobs of it get onto the friction disk...

Also, remove the clutch arm at the end of the transmission and remove the rubber boot. Carefully slide out the piston, bearing, washer and push rod - clean these and examine for wear. If OK, relube (coat of bearing grease is OK, and tranny oil eventually works its way to the back and lubricates the stuff at the back). Put just a LITTLE moly-based grease on the tip of the push-rod that goes to the front through the tranny's input shaft and pushes on the center of the diaphragm spring.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

If this is new territory for you, perhaps you can find a fellow airhead to help guide you through these steps-

I would definitely recommend pulling the transmission off, cleaning the and lubing the transmission input shaft splines and examining the clutch/friction disk/carrier assembly for signs of wear, rust, etc. Clean and examine the "inside" splines of the friction disk of the clutch assembly, but just put a thin even coat of moly-based grease on the transmission input shaft splines. Too much moly grease can be a bad thing if gobs of it get onto the friction disk...

Also, remove the clutch arm at the end of the transmission and remove the rubber boot. Carefully slide out the piston, bearing, washer and push rod - clean these and examine for wear. If OK, relube (coat of bearing grease is OK, and tranny oil eventually works its way to the back and lubricates the stuff at the back). Put just a LITTLE moly-based grease on the tip of the push-rod that goes to the front through the tranny's input shaft and pushes on the center of the diaphragm spring.

Excellent, that's exactly the info I was looking for--and yes, it is uncharted territory for me, so I do things agonizingly slowly, research and ask for help. If I can meet other Airheads in my area, especially experienced wrenches, all the better. The bike fascinates me.

I'm probably going to hold off on this until I get a lift at Harbor Freight or someplace. In the meantime, it shifts, doesn't make any weird noises, just jumped a little when I first rode it after it sat for so long. I guess I'd be a bit jumpy myself if I'd had an 8 year nap--I'm just trying to do this right and not damage anything.

Many thanks.:type

[airoilheadbeemerguy]

My .02, is the clutch cable adjusted properly? Does it begin to engage close to the handlebar or when nearly released? Is there enough hypoid oil in the tranny?Simple things first I've learned the hard way.:doh
'07 R1200RT
'83R80RT (over 200K kms & still ticking).

[sumran]

I can't remember if you have changed the old fluids out, but if not it would be a good starting point. All of your fluids should be changed on a newly aquired bike, but especially the brake fluid. I know you rebuilt one set of brakes, but I don't recall if was on the one you kept or the one you sold.

[AnnapolisAirhead]

I can't remember if you have changed the old fluids out, but if not it would be a good starting point. All of your fluids should be changed on a newly aquired bike, but especially the brake fluid. I know you rebuilt one set of brakes, but I don't recall if was on the one you kept or the one you sold.

Yeah, I was all over the place for a good bit there. Sold the 90/6.

Rebuilt the MC on the R100, installed new SS braided lines (and man, does this thing STOP!!!). I have rebuild kits for the front calipers (Brembos), but don't see any leaks an since it was stopping fine--I got eager to test ride.

I've changed the oil (twice) and have now put a glorious 350+ miles on the beast. I'll change all the other (drive related) fluids this weekend.

The sticky cluth seemed to be just from lack of use. It all shifts fine. I had a veteran airhead ride it for a bit--his only comments are that it actually brakes. So I am good to go for now.

Thanks for the help. :drink