'01 F650GS dies while stopping

[Rasbutan]

I have a 2001 F650GS. Frequently(20%), when I'm coming to a stop, the bike will die.

Example: Ride home from work, coming to a stop light that's turned red. I pull clutch in, and apply rear brake. Cover front brake and start shifting down from 4 to 3. Apply front brake, and shift from 3-2. Speed gets down under ~17mph, bike dies. :bluduh Coast to stop, shift into 1, and restart.

Bike typically idles pretty high, 13-1500 rpm or so.

If I keep on the throttle up at 2000 rpm, bike stays running.

Thoughts? Dirty injector? Fuel filter? <<- I'd think that it would happen more often than 20%.

Also, seems to only happen after the bike is warm. :dunno

[maggie1]

I have a 2001 F650GS. Frequently(20%), when I'm coming to a stop, the bike will die.

Example: Ride home from work, coming to a stop light that's turned red. I pull clutch in, and apply rear brake. Cover front brake and start shifting down from 4 to 3. Apply front brake, and shift from 3-2. Speed gets down under ~17mph, bike dies. :bluduh Coast to stop, shift into 1, and restart.

Bike typically idles pretty high, 13-1500 rpm or so.

If I keep on the throttle up at 2000 rpm, bike stays running.

Thoughts? Dirty injector? Fuel filter? <<- I'd think that it would happen more often than 20%.

Also, seems to only happen after the bike is warm. :dunno

Check your battery connections.

[nytrashman]

i agree with the previous reply, check your battery connections

[Stephane]

Having an '01 F 650 GS too, I'm interested in knowing why battery connections may be the problem?

Steve

[Kutcher]

Having an '01 F 650 GS too, I'm interested in knowing why battery connections may be the problem?

Steve

Check the Battery Connections...Why?

See HERE (http://faq.f650.com/GSFAQs/custom_fixes_for_s_and_s.htm#Check%20the%20Battery %20Connections)

[darencs]

Mine would act like that when the battery terminals were loose also. Plus the tach. needle would quiver.

I drilled out the threads in the battery terminals and installed longer bolts with lock washers and lock nuts. The washers provide spring tension and the lock nuts of course keep everything from loosening up. I haven't had a problem since I did this. I had to tighten the suckers up every 4-6000 miles before that.

[boxerr]

I had the same problem with mine when I 1st got it (2nd hand)
Replaced battery, and no problems since.

[jasonTDI]

The charging system is sorta weak on that bike and the battery isn't stong enough to hold the charge so it dies when the bike isn't making enough amps on it's own to run. Restarting it all the time does not help at all.

[maggie1]

The charging system is sorta weak on that bike and the battery isn't stong enough to hold the charge so it dies when the bike isn't making enough amps on it's own to run. Restarting it all the time does not help at all.

Really? I ran PIAA 510s all the time, ran it with the lights and Gerber lining in the winter, was really bad at maintaining the water levels on the battery, and almost never plugged in my Batterytender.

I got almost 5 years out of the original battery.

[crgrbrts]

It may sound too simple -- but I agree. It's probably a weak battery. My wife's '03 F650CS had the same trouble when she first got it last year. A new battery cured all.

[Slablog]

Ditto. My wife's '07 started doing that. Brand spanking new! Put the Tender on it and left it for a few days. Now it don't do it anymore. VIOLA!:type

[Rasbutan]

The battery is pretty weak.

It's one of the generic ones and when I first picked the bike up, the battery died after trying to start it for like 5 seconds.

I know the connections are tight since I just put the GPS hardwire on them.

Guess I may have to get a new battery. :banghead

[cjack]

I have a 2001 F650GS. Frequently(20%), when I'm coming to a stop, the bike will die.

Example: Ride home from work, coming to a stop light that's turned red. I pull clutch in, and apply rear brake. Cover front brake and start shifting down from 4 to 3. Apply front brake, and shift from 3-2. Speed gets down under ~17mph, bike dies. :bluduh Coast to stop, shift into 1, and restart.

Bike typically idles pretty high, 13-1500 rpm or so.

If I keep on the throttle up at 2000 rpm, bike stays running.

Thoughts? Dirty injector? Fuel filter? <<- I'd think that it would happen more often than 20%.

Also, seems to only happen after the bike is warm. :dunno

I remember an issue with the throttle body stop screws getting loose and rotating causing poor idle and stalling. They are supposed to be fixed by paint, I think, but got loose. Caused some head scratching until found.

[Rasbutan]

I remember an issue with the throttle body stop screws getting loose and rotating causing poor idle and stalling. They are supposed to be fixed by paint, I think, but got loose. Caused some head scratching until found.

Could these have been worked loose during a bar swap? The bike doesn't have the original bars, so they would've had to take the throttle off to make the switch. I'm wondering if by doing that, they somehow worked the screws loose down below.

[cjack]

Could these have been worked loose during a bar swap? The bike doesn't have the original bars, so they would've had to take the throttle off to make the switch. I'm wondering if by doing that, they somehow worked the screws loose down below.

I can't think of any causal relationship for that. The ones that came loose had no reason except maybe just that they weren't secured by the factory.

[Rasbutan]

This is getting frustrating.

Sitting at the stoplight yesterday, bike is idling fine. Light turns green and the damn thing dies. :banghead

[TheRoss]

Below is the correct starting proceedure (cut and pasted from the chain gang). I can't promise this will fix your problem, but I was having similiar stalling issues until I started following this proceedure, then all was fine.

If this is followed, the computer boots correctly and the S&S is minimal whatever the software or injector versions are. I usually switch on and stand by the bike putting on my gloves, watch the pretty lights. That takes the right sort of time for the comp to boot.

For the F650GS, the Water Temp Warning Light goes through the following cycle:

With gearbox in neutral and run switch on, the water temp warning light will come on when the ignition is switched on (and kill switch set to run!).
Wait for the water temp warning light to go out (it takes 2-3 seconds). The electronics have now gathered information on the engine temperature etc.
Now press and hold the starter button for a few seconds until the engine is running smoothly, I usually wait for the revs to drop by a notch on the dial as the tick-over is set. DO NOT twist the throttle at all during the process, you'll just confuse the electronics.
When you turn the key.., the ABS (if you have ABS), neutral (if you are IN Neutral), the oil and water temp lights go on. In the still of a silent garage you will hear a low whirring noise under the seat. That "whirring noise" is most likely your fuel pump coming on, building up pressure and then shutting off when the regulator tells it to. The ABS light goes out and shortly thereafter the temp. light goes out. The grinding noise has stopped and you can start the bike. If you do not start the bike and turn the key off, the little grinding noise goes on again for about 1 full second.

[dallnerml]

I had this problem and it turned out to be a bad Oxygen Sensor. Took several trips to the dealer to confrim the problem. The bike also ran poorly. I had replaced the battery in an attempt to solve this problem.

05 650 CS