Rookie Removing Transmission

[zoridog]

I've been told that I need bearings replaced in my 94 R100R. I am fortunate to live close to Tom Cutter so getting the job done right is not an issue.

Tom can work on the tranny as soon as I can get it there. If I want him to remove, repair and replace, I will be waiting for his garage to clear out (between November and February). Ideally, I'd like to ride this bike to a couple of rallies in August. I do have a Clymer manual and a week long vacation coming up.

Is pulling a tranny something a rookie can do? Any special tools needed? Any potential pitfalls?

[20774]

I wouldn't think so. It's most biggish type items, easy to see how things attach/detach. Things you'll need to take care of:

- remove clutch cable and throwout arm at back of tranny
- remove aircleaner on top of tranny
- remove battery and probably the tray
- disconnect shifter linkage
- undo rubber boot at output of tranny and slide back; with someone holding the foot brake lever down, use your tool kit closed wrench (12mm IIRC) and remove the four bolts on the output flange

After that you should be able to remove the four nuts/bolts that hold the tranny to the rear of the engine. With enough twisting and grunting, I think you could wiggle the tranny up and out to one side. The tricky part is do you have enough room to go to the rear to clear the mounting studs and not run into the swingarm cross brace.

If you can't possibly get it past the swingarm, then it becomes a little more troublesome but still doable. You'll need to:

- remove the brake lever actuating rod at the rear drive (I'm assuming drum brake)
- remove the caps that cover the L/R ends of the swing arm bolts; it'll take a special hex wrench and largish (I think 27mm) socket to remove the bolts and nuts that hold the swingarm in place. Sometimes this 27mm socket has to be turned down around the outside to fit into the recess of the swingarm nuts. Here's a website that's geared to lubing the tranny input splines that might give you some ideas if you have to remove the swingarm.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/spline/

There might be a few more little things...have a look at that and go look at the bike and see what you think. We can help if/when you decide to tackle this.

[88bmwJeff]

Is pulling a tranny something a rookie can do? Any special tools needed? Any potential pitfalls?

That is what I did. A month after I purchased my bike, I ended up pulling the tranny for a rebuild. Just go slow. FWIW, it took me 5 hours to remove it.

VERY IMPORTANT if you don't already know. DO NOT force the exhaust nuts. If they are stuck, CUT them off. The nuts are relativey cheap compared to restoring the threads on the head.

Now's the time to check your rear main seal, oil pump seal, clutch specs among other things. If the rear main seal or oil pump O ring need replacing, ask here first before you remove the flywheel. You also may want to replace the rubber boot from the tranny to the swing arm if it hasn't been replace recently.

Special tools.
-Exhaust nut wrench (if you own and Airhead, you need one of these)
-Cycle Works (http://www.cycleworks.net/)makes a tool for the the driveshaft bolts that is not necessary, but make the job easier. (many use blue loctite and the wrench in the tool kit)
-you may need a "turned down" socket for the swing arm nuts. I did not, but it is common that a standard size socket will not fit in the hole.

[Boxerkuh]

Now that is a tricky question. How good of a general mechanic are you? Do you trust yourself to do it? Only two speciality tools come to mind (already been stated before) are needed. It will make it much easier if you have one person helping you, as you will need to slide the rear of the bike back to gain access, which is easier with 2 people. You will also need a torque wrench when you reassemble parts and you will need the four driveshaft bolts. I am not a good mechanic, I have assisted in pulling my tranny about 4 times and I trust myself to pull it out, but I don't trust myself to put it back in by myself... my food for thought... :eat :drink

[DARRYL CAINEY]

You don't have to remove the exhaust to remove the transmission!

Darryl

[sumran]

A common mistake is to remove the rear wheel before the output flange bolts are loosened. The flange is held by the rear brake as you break the bolts loose, as Kurt mentioned. You need the wheel in place so that the rear brake will work.

If yours is similar to the double swing arm models, you will need a high quality, relatively thin wrench to work the output flange bolts. Preferably a little longer than a standard wrench.

When you are removing the clutch lever, take care not to puncture the large rubber boot around the output flange. It often gets punctured by the pin or a tool used to remove the pin. Yours may not have the same attachement design as mine.

The job is much easier with an extra set of hands. A lift makes it easier. It is not a difficult job if you take your time.

[swall]

One item of note--the four output flange bolts are not used with lockwashers. I am guessing that with a '94 model, that change had been implemented on your bike, unless someone has messed with it.

[20774]

One item of note--the four output flange bolts are not used with lockwashers. I am guessing that with a '94 model, that change had been implemented on your bike, unless someone has messed with it.

Good point...BMW went to the short bolts with no lockwashers. You may still find people have the longer bolts with split-ring lockwashers in stock. Either or would work, I guess, but the concern over using the split-ring was the possibility that the washer would break, leaving that bolt not tight with the subsequent loosening of the other bolts.

Short one should be fine...I put some on with clean and dry threads and used some blue Loctite for good measure.

[zoridog]

A new wrinkle. I just came from the gas station. I'm getting 27 miles per gallon.

I just tried to spin the rear wheel and hear a very audible "click, click, click".

Yesterday I would have cautiously tried the removal myself but I think I'll have it towed to the dealer.

[jimmyivy1]

i had the same problem, clicking on mine was the drive shaft hitting the swing arm, worn out swing arm bearings and miss aligned to get back home (i hope because i am fixing that now), as fare as the fuel millage i was getting 26mpg on an r80 very bad. the bike is new to me and i started checking everything, some one had messed with timing, bad :doh ,off by allot, and the carburators were rebuilt with different parts, jets were not the same nor were the needles. just got that fixed and a 250m trip @60 mph i got 50 mpg:laugh


jim

[jimmyivy1]

do you have to use new bolts or can you reuse (if in good cond. ) the old ones with some blue locktite?
jim


Good point...BMW went to the short bolts with no lockwashers. You may still find people have the longer bolts with split-ring lockwashers in stock. Either or would work, I guess, but the concern over using the split-ring was the possibility that the washer would break, leaving that bolt not tight with the subsequent loosening of the other bolts.

Short one should be fine...I put some on with clean and dry threads and used some blue Loctite for good measure.

[20774]

do you have to use new bolts or can you reuse (if in good cond. ) the old ones with some blue locktite?
jim

I'd try running the old bolts into the output flange using your fingers. If they go in easily, then you might consider reusing them. If they catch at all, then they're probably stretched somewhat and you should probably not use them.

Couldn't hurt using the loctite.

[R100RS]

Theoretically, if they go in easily by hand, you can re-use them. But, how often are you going to need to take them out? How much do they cost? Remember, you're not going to be doing this all the time where the cost of new bolts will rack up over time. Just get new ones (short ones withOUT any lock washers). Either way (new or old), they need blue locktite. In addition to new driveshaft bolts, I put a new rubber boot on when I put the transmission in my RS back in.

[benway]

an alternative method [no fhe]

disconnect driveshaft

remove airbox, starter cover. left carb.

remove mufflers, exhaust brackets [not headers]

loosen the engine mount bolts, remove the rear one and jack/pivot the engine forward/up.

this gives enough room to remove the tranny to the left.

the advantage of this is not removing the swing arm, not needing the speciall 27mm socket not having to reset the swingarm, preload etc.

[bikerfish1100]

slightly off-topic, but ....does anyone know the lengths of the old vs new trans output shaft bolts? or are they possibly of a different color? I have a set of grey ones, not currently measured, that are new, but were purchased "a few" years ago for use on a bike i'm just getting around to resurrecting (damn oilheads and K bikes just keep on running, so have had no "need" to get it up and running.)

[zoridog]

Tom Cutter has my transmission. The bearings were shot. There was water getting in through the speedo cable.

He is replacing a few of the gears and adding the circlip. Big bucks ....

[rpeckham136133]

slightly off-topic, but ....does anyone know the lengths of the old vs new trans output shaft bolts? or are they possibly of a different color? I have a set of grey ones, not currently measured, that are new, but were purchased "a few" years ago for use on a bike i'm just getting around to resurrecting (damn oilheads and K bikes just keep on running, so have had no "need" to get it up and running.)

The "new" ones are shorter by the thickness of the old split lockwashers: they should go into, completely, but not come out the other side and risk nicking the tranny output seal. I thought I had the old ones, I just looked, but now I remember that Hucky told me to use the old bolts but with new lockwashers, so they are now buried. Color wouldn't tell you much, I don't think. You might have to break it open and see if the new ones are longer or shorter than what you have, and keep in mind the above about the installed length.

Photo shows the lockwasher and bolts prior to removal, unfortunately you cannot see the front side (closest to transmission) with the boot in the way.......

[bikerfish1100]

[QUOTE=rpeckham136133;347655]The "new" ones are shorter by the thickness of the old split lockwashers: they should go into, completely, but not come out the other side and risk nicking the tranny output seal. I thought I had the old ones, I just looked, but now I remember that Hucky told me to use the old bolts but with new lockwashers, so they are now buried. Color wouldn't tell you much, I don't think. You might have to break it open and see if the new ones are longer or shorter than what you have, and keep in mind the above about the installed length.
QUOTE]
the old ones are long since gone- this is a frame-up re-do (not "restoration", as it will not quite look like a stocker, what with a Porsche Guard Red frame, swingarm, etc, etc). I'll drop the new ones in sans washer, and look at the back side of the flange. no, i will not torque them at that point in time, unless tehy are clearly the short version.
thanx.

[20774]

slightly off-topic, but ....does anyone know the lengths of the old vs new trans output shaft bolts?

The service bulletin lists the old bolt as M8x1x14.5. The shorter bolt is M8x1x13. The new part number appears to be 26 11 1 242 297.

[sumran]

Tom Cutter has my transmission. The bearings were shot. There was water getting in through the speedo cable.

He is replacing a few of the gears and adding the circlip. Big bucks ....

Sorry that you are getting bit in the wallet, but it will be nice to have solid tranny with no question marks. That probably will put in in the happy (though poorer) minority!

[Hoorenga]

I did it and got it back in and I'm a dummy. I'm sure you can do it too. Just keep taking parts off until it comes out and then do the reverse getting it back in. Shifts like "Butta" now with the newly rebuilt transmission.

Doug