Tie downs...

[tonyfr]

Would you trust these on a R1200RT?

[tourunigo]

saw them used once (on my K1100LT unfortunately). Very slick indeed and solid. Wish I had a set rather than my current system. -Bob

[heavyjetpfe]

I asked about them at my dealer. They said they would not recommend them as the handle bars would not take te stress. FWIW

[rmeisen]

I have used these for a few years now, on a 96 and 04 RT (haven't has the need for my 07 yet, probably 1500 miles total). They work very well if you make sure you secure the wheels so they don't crab sideways. The handle bars on the RT are plenty strong enough. They do tend to abuse the grips and switch assemblies and you have to be careful how you position the straps coming off the bars, on the earlier RTs, be sure to pad the top of the tank if you don't have barbacks.

[bjhughes]

Those are called "canyon dancers". Very common tie down method among sportbike enthusiasts. I have some, but now use these: http://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=1674

The cycle cinch puts less stress on the grips (no more damaged grips) and pulls down. I use them with Ancra tie downs on my Kendon trailer. Absolutely no damage to the bike or bars.

[JimVonBaden1]

The handlebars are not designed to handle those types of tie downs. The proper method is to tie it down at the brace above the fender. The Telelever suspension doesn't move like a regular bike either, so it is less secure that way.

http://www.ascycles.com/pdf/Tiedown2.pdf With pictures and a full description.

Jim :brow

[deilenberger]

The handlebars are not designed to handle those types of tie downs. The proper method is to tie it down at the brace above the fender. The Telelever suspension doesn't move like a regular bike either, so it is less secure that way.

http://www.ascycles.com/pdf/Tiedown2.pdf With pictures and a full description.

Jim :browOne error I can see in that - step #4 - tightening down the front end, they have one person on the bike leaning it left and another one tightening the strap - then lean right and tighten the strap - they describe this as "Repeat the procedure until the front suspension is compressed" - ummm... not gonna do that with fastening them on the fork bridge like they show.. only thing getting compressed is the front tire.

Other than that - it's a good description.. ;)

[tonyfr]

The handlebars are not designed to handle those types of tie downs. The proper method is to tie it down at the brace above the fender. The Telelever suspension doesn't move like a regular bike either, so it is less secure that way

Yeah, I read all of the articles for tieing down an RT; I couldn't find the straps on A&S cycles site and saw those.

[bjhughes]

The handlebars are not designed to handle those types of tie downs. The proper method is to tie it down at the brace above the fender. The Telelever suspension doesn't move like a regular bike either, so it is less secure that way.

I respectfully disagree...are BMW bars somehow inferior to virtually every other motorcycle on the planet?

I have been using this method for over 40 years (dirtbikes up through my current BMW) and have never had a failure or issue. I just returned last weekend from an Arkansas trip (bike on trailer 4 1/2 hours each way at +/- 80 mph) and the bike was solid as a rock on the trailer.

If you do it right and use the proper equipment (tie downs and trailer), it is 100% effective.

[DocZ]

Been there and done that. Handlebar harnesses are great for smaller, lighter bikes but stink for bigger, heavier bikes.

Ft wheel chocks rule!:thumb

Got myself a Baxley trailer with the chock. My RT stays very, very still. Can be loaded and unloaded solo. Only needs two straps - and not very tight - from back towards ft. I use the pass footpeg brackets with soft tie extenders - two per side. Strappage is only snugged, NOT tightened.

We have a get away place in the mts and only trailer bikes to/from. GS Druids and other Zealots please note: I need to trundle my wife, dogs, groceries, clothes & other misc flotsam & jetsam to and fro about 14 - 16 trips per year. And we have been doing this for about 10 yrs. I say this as I have had both BMW & FJR riders give me the finger which, I suppose was editorials on the trailer thing. Some folks take RiderWearhouse catalog comments waaaay to seriously...:laugh

Dinky trailers stink. Home center trailers with tiny wheels stink. Spider web of tie downs and handle bar harnesses on big bikes (over 450 lbs) STINK.

If you are budget constrained, buy a cheap-o trailer with at least 13" wheels and GET A CHOCK. If you don't here is the hint - you are a gonna bend some bars at some point.....I sure did. Nice set of newish Heli's. In fact, I bent the stock bars, too. But then I had an ST1100 - aka "The Fat Lady". 725 lbs of fun! Still, no bar harness is ever touching those sweet cast bars on my R12RT - or those equally sweet Converti-Bars on my SV1000S. Never. :whistle

[bjhughes]

I guess I should have stated that my Kendon [motorcycle-specific] trailer has wheel chocks as standard equipment.

[kgadley01]

I respectfully disagree...are BMW bars somehow inferior to virtually every other motorcycle on the planet?

I have been using this method for over 40 years (dirtbikes up through my current BMW) and have never had a failure or issue. I just returned last weekend from an Arkansas trip (bike on trailer 4 1/2 hours each way at +/- 80 mph) and the bike was solid as a rock on the trailer.

If you do it right and use the proper equipment (tie downs and trailer), it is 100% effective.

DITTO

[JimVonBaden1]

I respectfully disagree...are BMW bars somehow inferior to virtually every other motorcycle on the planet?

I have been using this method for over 40 years (dirtbikes up through my current BMW) and have never had a failure or issue. I just returned last weekend from an Arkansas trip (bike on trailer 4 1/2 hours each way at +/- 80 mph) and the bike was solid as a rock on the trailer.

If you do it right and use the proper equipment (tie downs and trailer), it is 100% effective.


Feel free to do it that way, but when your cast, not steel handlebars break, don't say you were no warned. 40 years of doing something doesn't mean you are necessarily doing it right. Have you ever watched a 40 year HD rider who has 2000 miles a year, going into the twisties? :laugh

More importantly, the lack of compression on the forks allows more movement unless you have the wheel chocks. Not everyone does.

Jim :brow

PS I never said that BMW handlebars are inferior, I just respect the differences and adjust to them.

[danalbertson]

I tried em, thought they sucked, went back to regular straps to forks and frame(depending on the bike).

Too much stress on the bars.

[lenrt1200st]

One error I can see in that - step #4 - tightening down the front end, they have one person on the bike leaning it left and another one tightening the strap - then lean right and tighten the strap - they describe this as "Repeat the procedure until the front suspension is compressed" - ummm... not gonna do that with fastening them on the fork bridge like they show.. only thing getting compressed is the front tire.

Other than that - it's a good description.. ;)

:thumb 1+
The 1200st loves my BMW tie-downs.:heart

Len

[tonyfr]

If you are budget constrained, buy a cheap-o trailer with at least 13" wheels and GET A CHOCK.

I just didn't see the straps I was looking for to tie down the front forks ( I have two trailers and a dualie at my disposal) :thumb

[RJM2096]

I asked about them at my dealer. They said they would not recommend them as the handle bars would not take te stress. FWIW

I don't always trust what the dealer says. If they sold them, they would be great.

While there would be stress on the bars, the front end spring will absorb much of the stress when you hit a bump.

I have a 2000 R1100RT and have trailered it twice.

I really do not have a way to attach to the front and feel good about it. I attached at the forks just above the fender and eventually the cycle wore though one of the staps. I also used the handle bars and that worked good, but I do worry about stressing them. It would have been nice if BMW would have put some kind of attachment point on the front end.

I have seen a device at the Chicago Motorcycle show. It is kind of a big L-shaped trough that the wheel can be strapped into. This device is bolted or welded to the trailer.

Here is a link to something similar to what we saw. Most of us could build one ourselves.

http://www.wikco.com/bpro.html

[ConcowRider]

Just a short note to cast my vote for the strap type tie down on the forks and rear frame. Wife and I "deploy" to our house in the desert in SE California every winter and take the dog, a ton of tools and other supplies along. No way to pack it all along on our two wheelers so they get trailered ~750 miles down and back every year. We have a 16 foot open trailer with dualies with a 7K Lb capacity (way overkill) The ~ 1100 Lb load of the two BMW's is minor and we have had not problems. Front wheel "chocks" are attached via screws / inserts to the deck planking. We have settled in some straps that we purchased at Lowes or Home Depot that are rated at 3K Lb. We have at times doubled up on the front fork straps as "belt and suspenders" precaution and leave single straps on the rear frame. We always check the security straps at fuel stops and have never had a problem with lossening. Have spent the night in a Motel and came out the next morning and found straps to be somewhat loose. Moisture??, Temperature?? No clue, so we just tighten them up if they seem loose. No issues or paint worn off so far. Our only challenge so far is that infernal 55mph speed limit. It's tough!
Cheers
Dave, Dot & Freckles Doggie

[Evergreen]

I also wouldn't use a handlebar tiedown strap like this. I seem to remember someone doing this and having their heated grips fail. They are expensive. I have had good success on long highway treks tying the bike (R1100RT, F650GS) where the lower fork bridge meets the forks.

Greg

[GrafikFeat]

Trailer? Tie downs? What for? :stick