View Full Version : Drip drip drip.....
xp8103
04-23-2008, 09:24 AM
In case there is more action here than on the K75 Yahoo group.
I have a drip. Slow drip, coming from the area where the clutch actuator fork operates the plunger that triggers the clutch to engage and disengage. It's a clear oily liquid that has a distinct transmission oil smell to it. Slow drip, seems to only happen when the bike is on the center stand although I don't leave it on the side stand much.
I've had the bike less than a month and put under 500 miles on it. The dealer did the spline lube service before I bought it. Is it possible they screwed something up on reassembly? Did they maybe just overfill it and this is it's way of rejecting some fluid until it gets to a level it likes?
I am just looking for some direction before I call the dealer. Thanks guys!!
sgborgstrom
04-23-2008, 09:41 AM
There is a rubber boot that is supposed to seal the junction you are talking about. Since the bike just got serviced my guess would be that either the boot got torn or it didn't get installed correctly.
xp8103
04-23-2008, 09:43 AM
Thanks Steve,
I'm going to have a look down there again this afternoon.
godzilla
04-23-2008, 10:27 AM
My 85 K100 is doing the same annoying thing. I had it in for her winter service to the tune of $1500, which included a total fluid change. A few days after picking her up, she started that dripping nonsense. I checked the gearbox fluid level and found it over full. I rechecked it this past weekend and the level was right at the line. But I am still getting a few drips now and then. I checked the clamp on the boot, it was tight, so I suppose the boot is leaking.
Going to have to take her back to figure out what is going on...
I have been told that there isn't a seal behind the boot. Is that correct?
I have also been told that the swing arm has to come off to replace the boot. Is that also correct? That will lead to more $$ to replace it if it is true. It doesn't seem like the swingarm has to come off just to unscrew the clamp and loosen the clutch actuator... Just wondering...
BuddingGeezer
04-23-2008, 10:48 AM
I had a torn boot on my K100LT. On a recent trip from Arkansas to Key West with 400 miles of hard rain, water entered my transmission. The bike was very hard to downshift. The tranny fluid was milky. New fluid and a new boot she's as good as new.
Probably all of these old K bikes need a new clutch arm boot. If it's leaking, that also means water and dirt can get in. It's really easy to install a new one.
No seal behind the boot, you are correct. Boot is around $23.
Swing arm doesn't have to come off. Remove the clutch cable from the clutch arm, rotate the arm from the boot, loosen the clamp, remove boot, reverse to install new. 30 minute job if you are slow.
Ralph Sims
98lee
04-23-2008, 10:52 AM
It could also be coming from the boot on the swing arm. It could be torn or not seated correctly. Both boots are inexpensive and not difficult to change at home.
:dance :dance :dance
xp8103
04-24-2008, 07:46 AM
I did take a turn on the screw that tightens the clamp that holds the boot around the clutch rod. It wasn't loose but it didn't take much effort to rotate the screw either. So we'll see.....
knary
04-24-2008, 09:26 AM
I did take a turn on the screw that tightens the clamp that holds the boot around the clutch rod. It wasn't loose but it didn't take much effort to rotate the screw either. So we'll see.....
It's a common problem. Replacing the boot isn't difficult.
virusk75
04-25-2008, 02:01 PM
It is not to difficult to do. But the exhaust has to come off to allow the clutch arm to drop out of the way to remove the rubber boot. I didn't have to remove my swingarm to get to it but it does make it easer to see everything. There isn't a seal behind the rubber boot so if the fluid is overfilled or the boot has a hole in it, it will puke out a small amount of fluid.
xp8103
04-25-2008, 02:52 PM
Thanks for the note. I'll see if by tightening the clamp I have solved my problem. If not, it doesn't sound like a big job at all.
Thanks again guys.
BuddingGeezer
04-25-2008, 05:59 PM
But the exhaust has to come off to allow the clutch arm to drop out of the way to remove the rubber boot.
Are you sure? On the K100 you don't have to remove the exhaust to replace the boot. I had a K75 and I don't think they are a lot different.
Ralph Sims
Are you sure? On the K100 you don't have to remove the exhaust to replace the boot. I had a K75 and I don't think they are a lot different.
Ralph Sims
I believe you can drive the pivot pin for the clutch actuator out towards the left side of the bike. this would allow you to lower the actuator arm out of the way and make changing the boot easier. I am not sure if you could pivot the arm enough to remove the boot without doing one of these.
As explained by D. Eilenberger the K75 push rod only comes out the engine side of the trans while on the K100 it is removed from the rear of the bike.
Roy
deilenberger
04-25-2008, 10:40 PM
I've replaced the boot on both the K100 and K75 - and in no case did I have to remove the exhaust to do it. You do have to disconnect the clutch cable.. that provides enough freeplay in the lever to get the boot off/on. Have a pan underneath - some gear oil will dribble while you're doing the job. Make sure the new boot seals correctly on the end of the clutch adjusting bolt.
deilenberger
04-25-2008, 10:42 PM
I've replaced the boot on both the K100 and K75 - and in no case did I have to remove the exhaust to do it. You do have to disconnect the clutch cable.. that provides enough freeplay in the lever to get the boot off/on. Have a pan underneath - some gear oil will dribble while you're doing the job. Make sure the new boot seals correctly on the end of the clutch adjusting bolt.Oh - one additional hint. Unscrew the clutch adjusting bolt and remove it from the arm BEFORE R&R of the boot. That makes it lots easier.
xp8103
04-28-2008, 07:44 AM
That goes against just about everything everyone else has said. That the exhuast needs to be dropped?
mrich12000
04-28-2008, 08:04 AM
Listen to Don....:thumb
godzilla
04-30-2008, 02:02 PM
I stopped by the shop Saturday to have Wilbur look at this. He thought both the clutch boot and the swing arm boot looked OK. He checked the fluid level and found it slightly overfull, so he used a suction thingy to suck out a couple ounces of oil, bringing the level right on the mark. Since then I have only seen a drop or two. Methinks the overfull condition was the problem, but I am keeping a close eyeball on it!
xp8103
04-30-2008, 02:53 PM
I stopped by the shop Saturday to have Wilbur look at this. He thought both the clutch boot and the swing arm boot looked OK. He checked the fluid level and found it slightly overfull, so he used a suction thingy to suck out a couple ounces of oil, bringing the level right on the mark. Since then I have only seen a drop or two. Methinks the overfull condition was the problem, but I am keeping a close eyeball on it!
That is insteresting because I haven't seem much of a drop since last week, early. I wonder if I had the same issue.....
godzilla
04-30-2008, 08:13 PM
That is insteresting because I haven't seem much of a drop since last week, early. I wonder if I had the same issue.....
Conspiracy? Hmmmmmmmmm.....
Mebbee cause both our bikes are white? Hmmmmmmmmmmmm...........
xp8103
05-01-2008, 06:37 AM
Hahahahahahahahahahahahhah
godzilla
05-01-2008, 08:34 AM
I also have a very slight seepage from the engine that leaves a spot of oil now and then. Interestingly enough, this never happened until I put the leather fringe things on my clutch and brake levers to make the bike "look cool". Methinks that this HD accessory has directly led to the oil drip?
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