What goes tic tic ....

[guitardad]

The actual noise went like this: "tic TIC tap TAP knock KNOCK bang BANG BANG" Not a good series of noises to hear as you're zooming down I-40 at the start of the Cape Fear 1000 Mini-Rally. At 5:17 in the morning. 13 miles into the rally. :doh As I thumbed the engine cutoff switch, I looked down at the instruments. Oil Pressure light is on. Crap! I coasted to a stop on the side of the road, got off the bike, and got out my flashlight. The problem was obvious, even in the dark. I called the Rallymaster, and he woke up Eddie James, who was helping with the rally, and happened to be trailering a bike to his home in Asheville. So Clifford got a ride back to Rally HQ.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0268.JPG

In daylight, we got a better look at the problem. Can anybody tell me what's wrong with this picture:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0271.JPG

[bikerfish1100]

well, I can't exactly tell what the problem might be, but that sure has to be the cleanest sight glass i've ever seen! why, it's almost invisible!!

[kgadley01]

this is a no brainer.... you lost your sight glass. bet you didn't have a spare either.:clap I hate when that happens.

[Kev95GS]

Ouch! Hope you didn't do too much damage to the engine.

It happened to me leaving the Swamp Scooter rally in 06. Fortunately I had just started the bike and heard a "chuff, chuff" coming from the hole where the site glass used to be. Sounded like when the filler cap is off.

A buddy had a 1 1/2 in plug, it's a plug for checking pressure on plumbing, and I used it until I got home and got a new site glass. That plug stays in my tool kit now. :stick

Kevin

[Andy VH]

Hi Chaz. I figured your question was more a rhetorical one, because I know you know that bike far more than most people know their bikes.

But that is a REALLY clean sight glass in that picture. But I'd also say you are definitely low on oil also.

How far do you think you rode without the sight glass in place and the bike blowing oil out the hole? There would still be a film of oil on most of the rotating parts and in the bearings. But the worst part is the drop in oil pressure would mean the lubricating film between critical parts may have broken down. The cams ride on aluminum plain journal bearings, which require good consistent oil flow and pressure, so scuffing of the journals can happen quickly. If the distance ridden was short, you "may" have squeaked by.

If it were my bike? I'd replace the sight glass and take a shot at refilling the oil to the right level. Maybe take the spark plugs out, and crank the engine over with the starter to build some oil pressure, move some oil around in the engine. then replace the plugs, and, this is the wosrt part, start it and listen. If there was damage done, its already done and not made worse by trying this. But once at idle you'll be able to hear whatever doesn't sound normal.

A compression test "may" indicate if any cylinder wall damage was done. But those Nykasil coated cylinders are SO hard, if damage was done it more than likely did in the pistons first. A leak-down test may give some clues. The oil pumps would be the first to really suffer, because no oil pump does well when it cavitates and sucks air. If it is possible, after it is running, to get oil pressure readings, that may indicate what level of damage was done. The oil pumps output is capable of making between 50 to 80 psi depending on engine speed. The oil pressure warning light comes on between 3 to 7 psi, so that is REALLY low to warn against impending damage in my book.

That tube just aft of the sight glass hole is a return tube from the oil cooler, so no good to take pressure readings there. If you take out the oil pressure switch (right where that wire attaches) you may be able to install an oil pressure gauge to get a pump pressure reading. Use a liquid filled guage with a range up to 250 psi as a max, but the lower the range the better, at least 100 psi though. If pressure readings do not indicate a minimum of 50 psi, or no increase with increased engine rpm up to 80 psi, then the oil pumps are shot and the repairs begin.

[Motor31]

this is a no brainer.... you lost your sight glass. bet you didn't have a spare either.:clap I hate when that happens.


Given the sounds he noted in his first post I think replacing the site glass would have been closing the door long after the horses are buried.

Nice of you to clap about his engine too.

[JimVonBaden1]

All the work you put into that bike with the trans and clutch, and you forgot to swap out the $15 sight glass?:doh

Sorry to hear of your poor bike going Chaz!

Jim :brow

[guitardad]

Can't put one over on you guys! The bottom end is definitely toast. Since this was during an LD rally, I did everything I could to get across the finish line. Drove 4 hours round-trip to get a new sight glass, but it took 3 quarts to fill the engine back up. After that, the bike started and ran, but the noises coming from the crank are just terrible. So, I'm hoping the heads are OK, and I can buy a used short block to put into it.

But this bike's rallying days are over. I'm thinking I need something much newer - just can't swing the payments on a brand-new bike just yet. Whadda ya think about an '03 or '04 K1200GT?

[jingdog]

Cheaper to fix what you got. No guarantee you wont be fixing the new one either.

[PAULBACH]

Wonder is a dip stick isn't the better way to go given problems with sight glasses?

Sorry about ride. :cry

[Andy VH]

I dunno Chaz, something like this would inspire me to seek out a newer 96 to 2000 spec block and build a engine from that. I would research what other builder's (like Jim Roche in Florida) would do if they were building an engine. Sometimes you can build a nice strong engine if you are working with the best of various years.

Now you'll just have to ride your GS for a while eh?

Just a wild thought. Ask BMW NA if they would consider any "help" as in parts? Doesn't hurt to ask. Granted it is an older bike, and you are the second owner right? Never know.

Now I really am going to replace that original sight glass on my 94 R1100RS, 128,000 miles on it.

[guitardad]

Well, I'd really like to save the cylinder heads. This is an early bike, with the large-valve "alpha" heads. Thing is, I want to get it fixed fairly quickly, so I can move on with the next step in the rally-bike quest.

Ya know, I was thinking that we've had an F-bike, two R-bikes, and two airheads. Maybe I'm due for a K-bike. :thumb

(Or maybe I need to drink sake instead of Kool-Aid. :hungover )

[Andy VH]

Big valve heads? Mine must have that too, as it is a late 93 build model, VIN is a 94.

So what would you get with a R1150 long block and R1100 heads and TBs?
Hmmm,....I have not heard about the big valve heads.

[guitardad]

OK, here's tonight's update. Pulled all the crankcase breather hoses - no blockages, that would have allowed pressure to build up and blow out the sight glass. So that theory's looking doubtful. Also pulled the right cylinder head, and the cam looks smooth and undamaged. :clap So there's hope that I will only need to deal with the bottom end. Pics tomorrow........

[guitardad]

As promised, here's the current state of Clifford the Big Red Bike. I'm really getting tired of posting these kinds of pictures....

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0276.JPG

First things first - I pulled off all the crankcase breather hoses and checked them. Nothing blocked. Oh, here's the catalytic converter. Think I dumped much oil on the ground?


http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0277.JPG


Next I pulled the cylinder heads, right side first. The oilhead is an interesting design. The cams are in the heads, but they're not "true" overhead cams. They operate a short tappet, which pushes a rocker arm that in turn operates either both intake or both exhaust valves. The idea, I suppose, is to avoid making the cylinder head any "taller" by tucking the camshaft beside the valves instead of over them. But given what BMW did with the new HP2 engine, I don't think they gained a whole lot with this setup. Anyway, here's the view of a cylinder head after it's off the engine:


http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0281.JPG

The whole camshaft/tappet/rocker arm comes out as a set, after removing 5 bolts. My Clymer pointed to 3 bolts, but I didn't beat on it with a hammer long enough to damage anything before I found the other 2! Clever of those German engineers to make sure all 5 have the same Allen heads, while the remaining bolts that hold the assembly together are Torx. So here's the right and left valve train assemblies:


http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0282.JPG

As I said last night, the good news is the right side cams show no sign of damage. See:


http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0280.JPG

And I can report today that the left looks just as good. So I should be able to reuse the heads with just a thorough de-carboning. But now I need to slog thru all the work needed to be set to remove the engine. THAT will take some time - but I'll get it up here when I get it done. Clifford will live yet!

[guitardad]

Continuing with our tale of destruction.........

Cylinders off, pins out of the pistons, pistons left in the cylinders. Just like I did Hans. Looking down the bores, I don't see any evidence of scoring - just those nice, diagonal lines in the cylinder walls from being honed. Here's the right side shot:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0285.JPG
And those are supposed to be O-rings at the cylinder base, and around the holes for the studs. At least I THINK they are supposed to be.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0286.JPG

Right side seems OK, although I could get a 0.178mm feeler gage in between the side of the big end and the crank. But when we get to the left side, Oh brother! Compare these two pictures - First with me pulling the con rod out, then pushing it in:
http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0287a.JPGhttp://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0288a.JPG

That's about 1/8" of play in and out. Yeah, that will make an expensive noise, all right! :doh

So at the very least I need to replace the con rod bearing shells. Now the con rod big ends use 12-point bolt heads, and all my sockets are 6-point. So back to Sears I go, I suppose. Next series of decisions: should I try this in the bike? Mr. Clymer says to split the crankcase to remove the con rods, but maybe I can pull this off without that. What's the worst that could happen? Drop a bolt and have to pull the engine and split the case anyway? :dunno

[guitardad]

Well, the diagnosis is complete. The engine has to come out, and either come apart or be replaced by a short block. Here's why.....

I removed the con rods. Right side came out fairly straightforwardly, and here's what I ended up with:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0289.JPG
While I won't necessarily say all the parts are good until I measure them, at least all the parts are there, and are the correct shape. The left side, on the other hand, looks like this:
http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0290.JPG

Those little shards are all I could find of the bearing shells. And yes, I sheared off the bolts getting the con rod out. In banging around in there, the bolts stretched so much they were basically seized in the rod. How about the journals, you ask? Well, here's the right one...

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0292.JPG

... and here's the left.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0295.JPG

You can see that the surface of the left journal is mottled looking, not smooth and machined like the right side. That crankshaft can't be used as is. So, I've got a line on an early R1100 crankshaft. This is a 4/93 manufactured bike - you can't get much earlier than that!

[deilenberger]

Wonder is a dip stick isn't the better way to go given problems with sight glasses?

Sorry about ride. :cryR12 engines have the sight-glass held in with a snap ring. Too bad it took BMW 10 years to figure that one out.

[guitardad]

So when I arrived home from work today, there was a CARE package waiting in my garage. When I unwrapped all the brown paper, I found this:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0297.JPG

Gifts from a fellow Square.* Now I've still got a lot of work ahead of me. But I looked up the crankshaft on one of the dealer's web sites. A new one would be about $900!

The one thing that will keep me riding a BMW is this - the people. BMW makes nice bikes, but so do a lot of other companies, and for a lot less money. Heck, I could buy a brand-new Bandit 1250 with ABS for less than a four-year-old K-GT. But where else will you find people who'd give you the shirt off their back, or the crankshaft out of their garage? (Depending on which you need more! ) And then ride up to deliver it, too?

* Our local club is BMW Bikers of Metropolitan Washington. BMWBMW, or (BMW)squared. So we members become "Squares." Yeah, I know, a long way to go for very little reward.

[JimVonBaden1]

So when I arrived home from work today, there was a CARE package waiting in my garage. When I unwrapped all the brown paper, I found this:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0297.JPG

Gifts from a fellow Square.* Now I've still got a lot of work ahead of me. But I looked up the crankshaft on one of the dealer's web sites. A new one would be about $900!

The one thing that will keep me riding a BMW is this - the people. BMW makes nice bikes, but so do a lot of other companies, and for a lot less money. Heck, I could buy a brand-new Bandit 1250 with ABS for less than a four-year-old K-GT. But where else will you find people who'd give you the shirt off their back, or the crankshaft out of their garage? (Depending on which you need more! ) And then ride up to deliver it, too?

* Our local club is BMW Bikers of Metropolitan Washington. BMWBMW, or (BMW)squared. So we members become "Squares." Yeah, I know, a long way to go for very little reward.

Hey Chaz, you now know why I stick with BMW! Glad to hear one of us helped you out, and kept you in the fold! Let me know if you need any help!

Jim :brow

[guitardad]

Thanks, Jim. I've got help close by for lifting the subframes off the engine, but I may need some help when it comes time to split the cases and see what we've really got inside. I'll let you know.

[mrich12000]

Well thing happen fo a reson. Cliford thouhgt it needed more service. thought I would help relieve the strain so here is a cliford cartoon for clif to watch while you fix it's innards..:clap :clap

<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/DeipOADN81E&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/DeipOADN81E&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>

<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5eOZ22mvVao&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5eOZ22mvVao&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>

[mrich12000]

:stick went looking for this post an it was misssssssiiinnngggg
so who the hell does that. It's not fair!!!!!

[guitardad]

Ya know, I thought the pictures I took back when I took Clifford's transmission out were scary. I was wrong.....

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0301.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0302.JPG

So the "bike" has been lifted off the engine. I have about 20 ziplock bags full of little parts, and a box of bigger bits that will go down in the basement to make room to work. Next step is to pull out my sturdy work table and put the engine up there. Then I'll spend some time cleaning all the oil off the case before I crack it open.

I have to admit, there was a moment when I thought just parting the bike out on eBay might be the best thing to do. But...... No, I'm gonna do this! What's the worst that could happen? I work at it for a couple of months, THEN part it out on eBay? :scratch

[glennhendricks]

I have to say I really admire your attitude and your work ethic. I'd still be a mess in your saddle.

Keep after Clifford and best of luck on the build. We're pulling for you.:clap

[knary]

Ya know, I thought the pictures I took back when I took Clifford's transmission out were scary. I was wrong.....

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0301.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0302.JPG

So the "bike" has been lifted off the engine. I have about 20 ziplock bags full of little parts, and a box of bigger bits that will go down in the basement to make room to work. Next step is to pull out my sturdy work table and put the engine up there. Then I'll spend some time cleaning all the oil off the case before I crack it open.

I have to admit, there was a moment when I thought just parting the bike out on eBay might be the best thing to do. But...... No, I'm gonna do this! What's the worst that could happen? I work at it for a couple of months, THEN part it out on eBay? :scratch

:bow

You deserve some kind of medal for this. Post some more photos. Get creative with them. :evil

[ArthurKnowles]

I work at it for a couple of months, THEN part it out on eBay?

Well think of it this way, if you can't get it back together, at least you already have it totally parted out for an eBay sale. :)

Seriously, that's a lot of work and I wish you well. I rebuilt a Kawasaki KZ 400 (to a 440 while I was at it) in a one room apartment and drove it coast to coast when I was finished.

[guitardad]

My wife insisted I show you a better picture of Clifford's "body." Her description is, "He looks like the Scarecrow after the Flying Monkeys got finished with him!" What do you think?

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0312.JPG

Anyway, back to his heart. Picking up where we left off yesterday, I got the timing chain and oil pump off. We're down to the basic elements, now.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0310.JPG

There are a massive number of bolts holding the case together, but the most important ones are the four 10mm bolts that clamp the case together around the main bearings. Two come out of the right side, and two out of the left. So after removing all the bolts from the right side, I laid the case down on my Workmate, with the jaws wide open so the cylinder studs could stick thru.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0314.JPG

Another 21 bolts out, and the case came apart - well that and a few love taps with my deadblow hammer! The rear main oil seal stuck to the left side case, so the crankshaft came out with it.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0316.JPG

Oh, and I found the rest of that destroyed con rod bearing. I just needed a magnet to do it......

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0318.JPG

And the question on everyone's mind - What else is there? The main bearings are intact, but a little closer inspection shows they didn't have long to live. Look at the scoring in the right side, front main bearing shell:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0321.JPG

Try as I might, I couldn't find any blocked oil passages. The oil should flow from that scored main bearing to the failed con rod through a hole drilled thru the crankshaft. Sure enough, that hole is clear and open. So I'm back to the sight glass failure being the initial cause of the failure. Clifford will get new main bearings, and new oil seals. The pictures will slow down now - the quickest part of any job is the "demolition." But my new set of micrometers arrived today, so I can measure the bearing journals and select the right bearings. I've got the weekend off to head down to Bob's and start buying parts. I'm starting to feel like we're gonna make it. \:D/

[RJM2096]

I am sorry for your loss, but this post is really great. I love seeing what others are doing to their motorcycles. Half the fun of having a cycle is working on it. While I have to admit they were easier to fix before electronics were added, the challenge is still fun. Keep us up to date...both the good and bad.

[mrich12000]

As an older semi ret. diesel mechanic/Paralegal now. I love this drama and the love for your machine. This is the heart of MOA and the reason why, we read the fabulous tech reads such as yours. Thank you this should go into the ON:bow :bow :bow :bow as well.Michael:german :gerg :ca :clap



Just a word >>Have the cases powerdiped and other pieces as well to rid of any metalic comtaminates<<

[Andy VH]

Couple of other things:
Make sure you replace the rear main seal with the factory replacement upgrade. Oilheads of that vintage were known to have leaking rear main seal issues (as mine did and oiled the clutch).

Do the cam chain tensioner upgrade while you have it apart.

Anything in the intake and exhaust bores that could/should be smoothed out for better performance? A good old hot-rodder trick is to simply clean up the intake runners with a die grinder, all you want to do is clean up any ridges or flashing that impedes air flow, but do not polish the intake runners. The intake runners need a bit of a rough surface, not polsihed. Clean up the exhaust runners in similar fashion. But the exhaust runners can be polished to a dull shine to improve exhaust airflow. Of course, the old hot-rodder trick to shave the head deck .005" for a bit more compression yields a bit more power.

Since you do know this engine overheated, it is a good thing to check the head deck and heads for flatness. You'll need a straightedge and thin feeler guages to check the surfaces for any warppage. Not too likely, but worth checking before reassembly. Are any piston upgrades available for your bike? A slightly higher compression piston may be available for bit more oomph.

This may be the opportunity to devise a sight glass retainer bar. Drill and tap two holes, one each side of the sight glass hole, for a small stainless steel retainer bar. Or, have the sight glass bore counterbored a bit deeper to allow for a spring retainer clip to press in against the replacement sight glass. Or simply apply epoxy to the replacement sight glass when you press it in, and apply four "peen" points around the perimeter.

Now is your opportunity to recoat the block, cylinders and heads with something unique to make your bike stand out. The original clear coat on my 94 R11RS has long since worn off and I wish I could easliy recoat it to make it look a bit less "weathered". You could even color the engine some distinctive color to go with the red panel color. Maybe a medium dark grey color?

Congrats on your tenacity to bring Clifford back to life! We're all rooting for your success!!

[guitardad]

OK, I've hit the first real snag. I measured the crankshaft journals with a micrometer. Main bearings looked fine - there are two different ranges in the manual, with one range requiring a green marked shell, and the other a yellow. Both of my journals need green shells. Con rod journals look good - measurements go like this:
Left rod - 47.984 mm
Right rod - 47.976 mm
Spec in the BMW factory manual: 47.975 - 47.991 mm
Looks OK, right? But then I get to the parts counter at Bob's, and there are two different shells to choose from. A red and a blue. And the parts fiche doesn't show the different dimensions for them. :doh So now I'm searching the Internet for infomation about red and blue shells. Anybody here know?

[cjack]

OK, I've hit the first real snag. I measured the crankshaft journals with a micrometer. Main bearings looked fine - there are two different ranges in the manual, with one range requiring a green marked shell, and the other a yellow. Both of my journals need green shells. Con rod journals look good - measurements go like this:
Left rod - 47.984 mm
Right rod - 47.976 mm
Spec in the BMW factory manual: 47.975 - 47.991 mm
Looks OK, right? But then I get to the parts counter at Bob's, and there are two different shells to choose from. A red and a blue. And the parts fiche doesn't show the different dimensions for them. :doh So now I'm searching the Internet for infomation about red and blue shells. Anybody here know?

I'm not too up on this, but it looks like the rod cover side is Red and the rod rod side is Blue. IE, a red and a blue for each rod bearing. Then there are +.25 reds and blues if you are going oversize.

[guitardad]

Question answered on the con rod bearings. One of each color per rod - red shell in the cap, blue shell in the rod itself. Thanks, Anton! Oh, by the way, I do think I had a leaky rear main seal. I could see oily grime seeping thru the seam between engine and transmission. But here's the comparison - one side cleaned, one side as I found it:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5170001.JPG

So I got home from Bob's yesterday with a big bag 'o parts, including a full set of bearing shells for Clifford's engine.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240004.JPG

Here are some comparisons of the old to new. You can see holes in the bearing shells - that's where oil is pumped into the bearing by the engine oil pump. The oil forms a thin film between this shell and the crankshaft. The crank "floats" on it - think tiny little hovercraft with a cushion of oil! The rear main bearing also takes the fore-and-aft loads - thrust loads for you engineers out there - on the crankshaft. That's where the wear showed up first. You can really see the wear on the old front main bearing, too.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240003.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240007.JPG

First order of business was to install the new connecting rods onto the crankshaft. New bearing shells here, too. But there are no holes or grooves in these. Oil is supplied from the main bearings, by flowing thru a hole drilled thru the crankshaft, and then forms another cushion under these shells.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240013.JPG

Now the book says torque on the conn rod bolts is "20 Nm plus 80 degrees." 20 Nm isn't much force, and my torque wrench clicked pretty easily. But now, how do you measure that you've turned the bolt 80 degrees more? Simple - with one of these:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240015.JPG

More to follow..........

[Andy VH]

Thanks for the updates. Actually "positional tightening" is actually better than using a torque wrench. And this is the reason for the 180 degree turn after initial 20 Nm of torque.

A torque wrench is nothing but a torque sensing device. The problem then is, if the torque wrench "senses" lets say 80Nm it may actually not produce a properly tightened connection. How so? Well, anything in the threads, galling of the material, mismatch pf parts due to machining, use of oil for assembly, NOT using oil for assembly, these all affect the amount of torque it takes to approach the required torque value for a threaded connection.

In some cases, if the resistance to torque applied is high enough, the torque wrench could "click" even though the connection never got to the intended holding torque.

[Motor31]

Guitardad,

What are you using for an assembly lube? In the shop I worked at we used STP motor honey on the bearings and cylinder walls, spread by hand.

[guitardad]

Motor - I'm using the same Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic I run in the engine.

Next order of business is to install the mains and the cranckshaft. The bearing shells go into the machined haves of the crankcase. You can see the intermediate shaft below the crankshaft bearings. It's turned by a chain, and in turn pulls two more chains that run up to the cylinder heads. Ready for bearings, then bearings in....

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240008.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240009.JPG

You can see I've already oiled the bearing faces - can't have the crankshaft starting to spin dry, before oil starts to flow from the pump! In goes the crankshaft. (This was an earlier pic, from my test fit before the conn rods went on.)...

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240010.JPG

And then we start to bolt together the two sides of the crankcase. I had a whole zip-lock bag full of bolts: four big 10mm bolts that clamp around the main bearings; four slightly less big 8mm bolts that clamp around the intermediate shaft; and 19 (!) smaller 6mm bolts to hold the rest of the case together. So my first empty bag, and the results....

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240017.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5240018.JPG

So is my better half right? Does it look like an engine?

[AZgman]

Absolutely awesome post Chaz! Keep it going!

[guitardad]

OK, I think I've made a mistake here. Check me on it....

I installed the rear main oil seal over the weekend. I don't have the special BMW tool for it, but used a trick from this board to cut down a water bottle and use that to help slide the oil seal over the end of the crankshaft. BUT... I pressed the seal in until it stopped, which puts it about 4 mm recessed below the outside "lip" on the crankcase. Now, looking at the pics in the service manual, I think it should just be flush. And the wear line on the old crankshaft seems to say it should be flush.

So, did I press in the seal too far? If so, I'll just have to pull in and install a new one. Not too big a deal, but annoying, ya know?

[Andy VH]

Did you install the main seal upgrade? The early oilheads were known to leak at the rear main seal. But the new seal I believe also installs flush to the back of the boss on the cases. So you may have to pry it back out a bit if you can.

[guitardad]

Yep, this is the new rear main seal. I think I'll just get a new one - for 18 bucks it's worth not worrying about getting this one out without damaging it.

[guitardad]

Three steps forward, and two steps back......

When I was last heard from, the engine case was back together and the rear main seal was going in. The new seal is different from the old, original one - it has less of a flat "face" and more of the ribbed flexible section that presses against the crankshaft. I started by carefully forming the flexible section to bend back into the engine case. New on the left, old on the right:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5260029.JPG

Now BMW has a special tool to install that seal, with a tapered section to help form it. You press the seal over the taper onto a mandrel, then remove the tapered piece. The mandrel matches the end of the crankshaft, so you just push it off the tool and into the engine. I'm not gonna buy a $150+ special tool, when a cutoff water bottle will do. (Cheapest part on a BMW and all that! :laugh )

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5260030.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5260031.JPG

For a drift, I found a PVC pipe fitting with just the right diameter - see how well it fits?

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5260032.JPG

So I slid the seal down over the bottle and onto the end of the crankshaft, and then tapped it home with the drift. All the way home, see?

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P5260033.JPG

Button up the flywheel, using those one-time-only bolts torqued and stretched into place. Three steps forward. Then I realized - that seal should be sitting flush, not recessed back in the opening. :banghead Two steps back! Remove the bolts, and go buy new ones Pull out the seal, go buy a new one. Go thru all the steps again, but now the seal looks like this:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0327.JPG

Now on to the cylinder heads. Anybody want to predict the steps forward and back for those? ;)

[knary]

Sometimes "the cheapest thing on a BMW..." should be "the cleverest thing on a BMW..." :thumb


:lurk

[guitardad]

Sometimes "the cheapest thing on a BMW..." should be "the cleverest thing on a BMW..." :thumb


:lurk

Gotta give credit where it's due - I got the idea here. (http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20106&highlight=%22rear+oil+seal%22)

[knary]

Gotta give credit where it's due - I got the idea here. (http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20106&highlight=%22rear+oil+seal%22)

You're still a hero to me. :ha

[bobknowlton]

This is turning out to be a darned interesting story. Thanks for posting the photos and progress reports. A whole lot of us will have a chance to learn a few things along with you!

[aaraar08]

Chaz...

You are a man among men! :bow

[guitardad]

Fell behind in my posting - sorry! But as I said, on to the cylinder heads! Boxer cylinders are simply jugs that slide down over the studs threaded into the case - like this:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0331.JPG

Just like on my airhead, I left the piston in the cylinder. So reinstalling the cylinder just means sliding it in place and installing the wrist pin to mate piston to connecting rod. Note the dexterity! Also note the chain for the camshaft, which was pulled taut then rubber-banded to the guides as I put the cases back together. (In English class, this was called foreshadowing...) Next step is a new head gasket, then the cylinder head goes on:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0333.JPG

Hardest part is to put the sprocket for the camshaft into the chain, line it up properly, and keep it there as the head is slid into place.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0343.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0336.JPG

Now remember, everything has to be just right. Crankshaft and aux shaft lined up with the marks aligned. Chain taut, and the camshaft sprocket aligned. Here's where my next problem arose - the marks on the sprocket didn't match exactly the way my manuals said they should. I'm worried enough to stop and ask for help. Remember this? (http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26701) But on advice from Anton and others, I used the keyway to align the sprocket properly. For the right cylinder, it should be straight down - and you can see in the pics above that it is. So from the front, everything looks good:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0344.JPG

One down, one to go. I spin the engine 360 degrees, and repeat on the left cylinder. I have to take the rubber bands off that keep the chain taut, and hold it by hand as I turn the engine over. And I hear some "clattering" noises as it turns, but figure that's not a big deal. Guess what? It is. :doh The chain won't quite reach the camshaft! I pull and tug, I pull the cylinder off so I can adjust the guides. No help at all. Then it dawns on me - the chain probably has one "slack" link, down on the aux shaft sprocket, and that's what made the chain "too short." That's also what made those clattering noises. Two steps back - I have to take it all back apart, split the cases again, get the chain back in place and REALLY hold it taut as I close everything back up. DW helps hold chains in place this time and I get it back together properly. Till we end up here:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0351.JPG

The engine turns over smoothly by hand, with no bad noises or valves hitting the tops of pistons. Three steps forward - finally!!!!!

[knary]

:bow

[ArthurKnowles]

I have to admit, I'm impressed as all git up considering how much work you are putting in to this rebuild. On the other hand, I know if I ever have my sight glass pop out I'm going to stop immediately unless I'm in a life & death situation just to avoid having to rebuild the engine. :)

[guitardad]

I think the hardest part of this whole job was putting the "bike" back onto the engine. It took five of us to do it - see the whole crew here (http://www.bmwbmw.org/bmwforums/viewtopic.php?t=11954). And here's why I'll keep riding BMWs - one post on our local club forum, and I had four volunteers at my house at 9 am on a Saturday morning to do this job. All knowing we would have a two-hour thrash to get as much done as we could, then I'd be bailing out to teach a BRC class. So no promises of barley therapy afterwards for the team, just good friends ready to help. Anyway, start with two people lifting the front half, and two lifting the back.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0359.JPG

It takes that many people, because the two halves are only joined by the wiring harness. If I EVER have to do this again, I may consider removing the fuse box and rear lights from the rest of the bike, so I can separate the two halves. The tough part here was to get the front subframe in place. There's only a fraction of an inch clearance between the "hoop" that holds the alternator and the subframe. But Bruce (slvblt) and Francis (EasyGlide) persevered.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0361.JPG

While the rest of the team lifted the "bike", I tried to get the two long bolts thru the frame and engine.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0357.JPG

Front frame and the front through-bolt goes on first, then while holding it in place a second bolt goes thru both the front frame AND one set of tabs for the rear frame. Now a strap can support the rear subframe. At this point, I started having flashbacks to Clifford's transmission-ectomy.

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0368.JPG

Aside from the total lack of front suspension, this is starting to look suspiciously like a motorcycle!
http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_IMG_0378.JPG

From this point on, you may have to excuse me for not pausing to take pictures. This blankety-blanking thing has been apart for too long - time to get it back together!!!!!

[BluegrassPicker]

Thanks Chaz for an outstanding write up. You are an inspiration to us all.

I am carrying a spare sight glass with me now.

I wonder if a small rod jb-welded across the opening might prevent some of these
sight glass problems, or at least buy enough time to get over to the side of the road?

Tom

[guitardad]

I only have one thing to say tonight..........

WOOO FREAKIN' HOOOO!!!!!!!!!

I realize it's a lousy picture, but it's for real:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P7180046.JPG

Lots of tweaking still to do, but Clifford lives!!!!!!

[BluegrassPicker]

I only have one thing to say tonight..........

WOOO FREAKIN' HOOOO!!!!!!!!!

I realize it's a lousy picture, but it's for real:

http://home.comcast.net/~guitardad/CF2008/tn_P7180046.JPG

Lots of tweaking still to do, but Clifford lives!!!!!!

:german :bow :bow :bow :german

[aaraar08]

Congrats Chaz! LONG LIVE CLIFFORD!!!!

[Motor31]

Congrats!!! There is a really nice feeling when you fire up an engine you have just rebuilt. May you have many many pleasant miles together.:thumb

[glennhendricks]

Yea Clifford.:dance

[JanMiller]

That's what worries me.. Sorry for your loss!!

Is this <sigh> common????? Egad.....:banghead

[knary]

That's what worries me.. Sorry for your loss!!

Is this <sigh> common????? Egad.....:banghead

The rubber gets old.
The adhesion to the engine leaves a bit to be desired.
POP.
Out it comes when you don't expect it.

I'm ordering one right now. :D

[lionlady]

I have to admit, I'm impressed as all git up considering how much work you are putting in to this rebuild. On the other hand, I know if I ever have my sight glass pop out I'm going to stop immediately unless I'm in a life & death situation just to avoid having to rebuild the engine. :)

The thing is, it doesn't take but SECONDS, at 65-70+ mph for 3 qts of oil to spew out onto the roadway, followed by the low oil light coming on. Hopefully, you'll notice it in time... good luck with your plan.

P

[Acejones]

I am really, really impressed ! I haven't built an engine in 40 years and that was a Triumph GT-6 automobile. I just don't know if I could do it again or if I'd want to. Hats off for a nice rebuild !!:clap