ABS fault

[BubbaZanetti]

question: will air trapped in the main circuit fault the abs test if it travels to the abs circuit?

here's what happened; i bled my front brakes (but not the abs) they felt a bit spongy so i bled them again, still a bit spongy, but they stopped the bike ok. went out and did a throttle body synch and the brakes firmed up (this has happened to me before). when i got on the bike after that, my abs faulted (alternately flashing). i'm guessing when the brakes "firmed up" a small amount of air in the lines traveled to the abs circuit.

anyone ever experience this before? also, anyone ever had a speed bleeder that did not function properly?

[jingdog]

Did you try to read the error code?

[JimVonBaden1]

Alternate flashing is usually an ABS system fault. Try making sure your battery is charged, and reset your ABS.

It is possible for air to cause this, but not common.

Jim :brow

[BubbaZanetti]

Alternate flashing is usually an ABS system fault. Try making sure your battery is charged, and reset your ABS.

It is possible for air to cause this, but not common.

Jim :brow

not a voltage error.

resetting the abs on a non GS is a bit of a PITA, there's some jumping to be done, but i don't think you can do it at the diagnostic connector. i read about it somewhere, i think it involves a pin jump at the motronic or something????

[JimVonBaden1]

not a voltage error.

resetting the abs on a non GS is a bit of a PITA, there's some jumping to be done, but i don't think you can do it at the diagnostic connector. i read about it somewhere, i think it involves a pin jump at the motronic or something????

From Anton's pages:

Resetting ABS2
Locate the diagnostic connector under the seat. Remove it from the blanking plug.
Insert one end of 20 cm wire into the middle socket of this connector.
Ground the other end firmly to a metal bolt in the area (and keep grounded).
Turn on ignition. You should see the lights flash alternately.
Hold ABS button down for about 8 seconds. The bottom ABS light will stay on, and the top one off.
Release the ABS button. If you have successfully reset the ABS, both ABS lights will come on. If you have failed to count to 8, or your ground is not good, the top ABS light will stay off.
Turn off ignition, remove wire.

His instruction of the GS is only slightly different.

http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

Jim :brow

[BubbaZanetti]

From Anton's pages:

.

His instruction of the GS is only slightly different.

http://www.largiader.com/abs/absfault.html

Jim :brow

yup, as i thought, i have to remove the body work and the tank to try this (the abs pumps and wiring harness are under the tank). i think i'll just use some electrical tape to cover the lights till i'm ready to tackle this out on the side of the street in brooklyn.:laugh

[glwestcott]

May be different, but on the R1100RT the connector you jump from is right behind the fuse box under the seat and really easy to get to. You just stick a wire in the middle hole and I loop the other end around the metal piece that is there for hanging your helmet (a dumb helmet lock if there ever was one). Then follow Anton's instructions quoted a few posts ago. I keep a piece of wire in my toolkit just incase.

I had recent problems after having the dealer change my front brake line. The guy used a wire tie to organize the cables up by the handlebar and pulled it so tight to the hole in the handlebar that it was shorting out the cable. That caused my ABS to alternately flash. This of course began a few days after the service. Anyway, after resetting numerous times only to have the brakes fault when I began to move, I tried Anton's code reading method with my VOM and then traced down the short in the cable.

Good luck finding what's going on with yours!

[BubbaZanetti]

Good luck finding what's going on with yours!

thanks, but unfortunately, i don't have a ABS button like you do (or at least assume you do) so i can't just jump the diagnostic plug while pushing the abs button, i have to remove the bodywork and tank to get to the abs pump and jump the other side of the circuit.

[glwestcott]

thanks, but unfortunately, i don't have a ABS button like you do (or at least assume you do) so i can't just jump the diagnostic plug while pushing the abs button, i have to remove the bodywork and tank to get to the abs pump and jump the other side of the circuit.

bummer:banghead

[AntonLargiader]

The R1100S is a MA2.4 bike and therefore goes in the same category as the 1150GS, except you have to essentially make an ABS button:

The page says:
Note: the K1200, R1200C and R1100S use the same ABS2 units as the 1150GS, but there is no ABS switch to use for the reset procedure. If you can access pin #21 on the ABS unit, you can ground it to achieve the same effect as having the ABS button. Pin #21 will be on the large connector to the ABS unit. I've gotten confirmation from K12 and R11S owners that they were successful. Here's one description:...