Synthetic Oil

[cdeloof]

I like using Royal Purple in my four weel vehicles. Would this be a good choice for this engine. If not what is the prevailing wisdom and recommendation?

[roy]

I like using Royal Purple in my four weel vehicles. Would this be a good choice for this engine. If not what is the prevailing wisdom and recommendation?

Which "K" bike do you have? The flying bricks all have a dry clutch so they are not sensitive to oil types. You can run whatever type oil is your preference as long as it meets or exceeds BMW's SAE oil recommendations.

The new Generation Vertical "K" bikes have a wet clutch and I am not sure if they are compatible with synthetics or not. I believe they are but please do not take my word for this.

[BuddingGeezer]

This is not an endorsement for BMW oil, Harley oil, Castrol GTX or any other brand oil. It is however some facts.

Most people seem to worry about the oil's weight, is it synthetic or semi-symthetic, and totaly disreguard the API service rating. BMW does not recommend any oil with a API rating of SJ or greater.

http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling...oil/index.html

That pretty much leaves out any auto oil today as they are ratted SM. The lower the letter, the greater the ZDDP.

Why?

The levels of ZDDP have been reduced to preserve the catalytic converters in autos (this bulletin may not apply to cat BMWs?). ZDDP protects the metal when the oil is no longer providing a film between metal to metal when extreme pressures causes the lost of hydrostatic lubrication. People say" that rarely happens in normal driving". Not so. Late model auto engines have roller cams or roller rockers and the pressure between the cam and lifter is not as great as flat tappet cams. The valve spring pressure is enough to cause the loss of hydrostatic lubrication between the cam lobe and shim and valve stem. Thus cam shaft failure. Another key area is wear on the bottom crank shaft bearing.

The best place to study oil is on the muscle car web sites. The flat tappet cams of the 60s muscle cars will not hold up under the SJ and later oils.

I too used to use Castrol GTX in my K100, but I now have gone to Castrol 4T motorcycle oil rated SG/SH. Under $3 a quart at Wal Mart. I think my next oil change will use Valvoline Motorcycle oil rated SF/SG. I can't find any lower than that.

The oil weight is determined by air temperature, the API grade for your engine doesn't change.

Run what you want. But know why.

Ralph Sims
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[Rpbump]

I used LUCAS synthetic 20W50 in my HD Sportster for two years. The oil temp with synthetic was 10 > 15 deg cooler using synthetic oil. When my CLC registers 12,000 miles I will start using synthetic in it. 10 deg cooler can only benefit the life of air cooled engines and the slicker properties of synthetic oils reduce friction in your engine, thats a double win for me.;)
I buy my oil from PEP BOYS.

[kgadley01]

I used to run Mobil 1 in my airhead. never had any problems. I also ran H-D synthetic in my electra glide. I now run AmsOil 20-50 motorcycle in the Harley and my Oilhead. its kind of pricey but I feel its worth it. $ 127.50 a case.:thumb

[cdeloof]

First, thank you all for the response.

Sorry for not posting the info on my bike (2002 K1200LT)

[ernesto18z]

So what's the best oil to use in my 2002 K1200LT that I've just purchased (synthetic, non-synthetic, weight, etc.)? Thanks, Ernie

[brickrider]

What's wrong with BMW Brand oil? It's available at your local BMW dealer.

I rode a 1991 HD Ultra Classic that had 78,000 miles on it when sold in the year 2000, and the engine never did use a drop of oil between changes. Oil used was H-D brand 20w-50.

Purchased a 2000 K1200LTC new after the H-D sold. The K currently has about 60,000 on it, and does not use a drop of BMW-Brand 20w-50 engine oil between changes.

I sleep well every night because I don't worry about which additives are in the oil. They are the correct ones, because the factory has spent thousands of dollars and many man-hours in research to determine the correct ones. That's worth the cost of the label to me.

Try a case and see how well you sleep.

Ride Safely,
BrickRider

[35634]

I just posted this somewhere. I'll post it again here................:blah

Oil requirements change with the age of the bike. Originally, my new K75
thrived on BMW branded oil & filters, and gagged at anything else. Later, it
accepted Castrol Syntech and even Mann oil filters. Now, at 21, it laps up
Valvoline or Pennsoil, AC oil filters and even lusts for old Mobil-1 drained
out of my VW 1.8t (the car is still young and has expensive tastes) Shades
of when I used to drain BMW oil from the bike use it to top off my 70 Bronco.

BTW, I'd like to port and polish the manifolds on the VW. Where can I get
official VW sand, and how much should I pour in? :dance :jester

[roy]

First, thank you all for the response.

Sorry for not posting the info on my bike (2002 K1200LT)

cd,
if you are still interested in type of oil go to www.bmwlt.com and do a search for oil. You can read for hours about oils for the LT.

My two cents worth.
Oil type is not as critical as how often you change it. It is pretty rare when you hear of an engine failure due to improper oil. Usually the failure is caused by lack of oil or failure to change the oil

Roy

[osbornk]

My two cents worth.
Oil type is not as critical as how often you change it. It is pretty rare when you hear of an engine failure due to improper oil. Usually the failure is caused by lack of oil or failure to change the oil. Roy

I agree. I have never found anyone who has had an engine failure if the oil was clean, the proper weight and at an adequate level.

[MESINCITY]

I've been using Golden Spectro in my 1985 K100RT for quite some time now...probably about 7 years...and haven't ever had an issue there, either...Also, I just usually pick up the "standard" 10w30 or 10w40...prior to that, i kept trying to find Mobil 1 "on sale"...

[BeemerMike]

Most people seem to worry about the oil's weight, is it synthetic or semi-symthetic, and totaly disreguard the API service rating. BMW does not recommend any oil with a API rating of SJ or greater.

That pretty much leaves out any auto oil today as they are ratted SM. The lower the letter, the greater the ZDDP.

Why?

The levels of ZDDP have been reduced to preserve the catalytic converters in autos (this bulletin may not apply to cat BMWs?). ZDDP protects the metal when the oil is no longer providing a film between metal to metal when extreme pressures causes the lost of hydrostatic lubrication. People say" that rarely happens in normal driving". Not so. Late model auto engines have roller cams or roller rockers and the pressure between the cam and lifter is not as great as flat tappet cams. The valve spring pressure is enough to cause the loss of hydrostatic lubrication between the cam lobe and shim and valve stem. Thus cam shaft failure. Another key area is wear on the bottom crank shaft bearing.

So, does anybody know what is the ZDDP content of BMW motorycle oils (or Golden Spectro for that matter)?

[Kayseventyfive]

Another key area is wear on the bottom crank shaft bearing.



Is that what car people would call a main bearing or what?

[BuddingGeezer]

Is that what car people would call a main bearing or what?

Yes

Ralph Sims