Its time for the annual BUBBA ZANETTI OIL THRED!

[BubbaZanetti]

2008's question has been sent to us care of Derek from Brooklyn NY.

Derek asks;

Dear BubbaZanetti,

I plan on doing a lot of city driving this summer in what i'm expecting to be fairly warm NYC summer temps. This means traffic pile ups, lots of sitting at idle and other things that may cause my engine to get nice and warm. I have been running Mobil 1 15 W50 for the last few summers, but it's starting to get real expensive. I saw Castrol 4T 20 W50 motorcycle specific dino oil at the auto parts store today for 17 dollars for a 5 qt container. Would this dino oil be fine to use in the conditions present during a warm day in NYC? I used Castrol 20 W50 car oil once and the motorcycle's usual kind of heavy consumption went down a bit. I'm thinking of switching, should i??? I'm always freaking out about overheating due to oil failure, but i think this might just be an anal-retentive quality I have, cause, well, i've never heard of many oil failures and bikes sit idling with dino oil in them all the time.

Help,
Pennyless in Polish Town

can anyone help this poor schmuck out?? it seems the more you read about oil, the more questions you have. will Castrol save his wallet and his bike this summer or will his boxer grenade in spectacular fashion that first really hot June day sitting on the Williamsburg bridge????

[cjack]

2008's question has been sent to us care of Derek from Brooklyn NY.

Derek asks;

Dear BubbaZanetti,

I plan on doing a lot of city driving this summer in what i'm expecting to be fairly warm NYC summer temps. This means traffic pile ups, lots of sitting at idle and other things that may cause my engine to get nice and warm. I have been running Mobil 1 15 W50 for the last few summers, but it's starting to get real expensive. I saw Castrol 4T 20 W50 motorcycle specific dino oil at the auto parts store today for 17 dollars for a 5 qt container. Would this dino oil be fine to use in the conditions present during a warm day in NYC? I used Castrol 20 W50 car oil once and the motorcycle's usual kind of heavy consumption went down a bit. I'm thinking of switching, should i??? I'm always freaking out about overheating due to oil failure, but i think this might just be an anal-retentive quality I have, cause, well, i've never heard of many oil failures and bikes sit idling with dino oil in them all the time.

Help,
Pennyless in Polish Town

can anyone help this poor schmuck out?? it seems the more you read about oil, the more questions you have. will Castrol save his wallet and his bike this summer or will his boxer grenade in spectacular fashion that first really hot June day sitting on the Williamsburg bridge????

Probably ok just fine. At least that's what Klick and Klack would say too I think. I would stick with the synth in a hot environment like that, though, and change it every 6K along with the filter. If he wants to save money, he should move to a small town in the midwest.
Where did the poor schmuck say that it was a boxer? If it is a newish K bike with the "vertical" four, then the maximum xxW weight that he should use is 15W in any case.

[Stuff2C]

plain old dead dino's and ride Bubba ride:thumb

From my personal experiance... I change it often (3-4k miles)with filter. I have NEVER had an oil related failure. But hey, on the edge makes me feel alive:ha

[bikerfish1100]

Dear Derek-
Castrol is approved for safe use on the Willaimsburg, Brooklyn and TriBorough bridges, along with any of the 98 (or so) other bridges in teh greater metropolitan area. However, its use within the Holland and Lincoln Tunnels is considered suspect. For that, an ichthyosaurian based oil is preferred over the standard land-based saurian oils bases found in Castrol's products. However, no one knows where to get ichthyosaurian products, so it might be wisest to just stay outta the tunnels alltogether.
HTH.

[SIBUD]

Didn't see what kind of bike he is riding. His owners manual will state the requirements. If it matches up with the side or back of the oil bottle he is good to go.

[jingdog]

Much less chance of all the oil leaking out and ruining the clutch requireing the dreaded bike to be cut in half if not in fact frying the engine if you get rid of the synthetic.

[BubbaZanetti]

Dear Derek-
Castrol is approved for safe use on the Willaimsburg, Brooklyn and TriBorough bridges, along with any of the 98 (or so) other bridges in teh greater metropolitan area. However, its use within the Holland and Lincoln Tunnels is considered suspect. For that, an ichthyosaurian based oil is preferred over the standard land-based saurian oils bases found in Castrol's products. However, no one knows where to get ichthyosaurian products, so it might be wisest to just stay outta the tunnels alltogether.
HTH.

i was in the Lincoln for over 40 min a few weeks ago, i know what you're saying.

Much less chance of all the oil leaking out and ruining the clutch requireing the dreaded bike to be cut in half if not in fact frying the engine if you get rid of the synthetic.

been there

http://bubbazanetti.smugmug.com/photos/143439635_TU9JT-M.jpg

that's me making "i've been in the garage 7 hours now" face.

[sgtboring]

Last Night I picked up a gallon of Castro 20-50 for around 7 dollars at my local Auto zone.

I have used 20-50 on my RT1100 exclusively for 2 years and about 25K miles. My bike seems to like it in all temps from 10-110 degrees F.

I changed the oil and filter, replaced the plugs last night in less then an hour for a total cost 14 dollars in parts including 65 cent BMW crush washer:dunno !.


I use Fram filters and Autolite plugs (try these cheap plugs, what a difference in milage and power!)

[Troutluck]

Run whatever smells good. I always add a capful of Marvel Mystery Oil. It smells real good. Makes a fine marinade, too. :bolt

[BubbaZanetti]

Last Night I picked up a gallon of Castro 20-50 for around 7 dollars at my local Auto zone.

I have used 20-50 on my RT1100 exclusively for 2 years and about 25K miles. My bike seems to like it in all temps from 10-110 degrees F.

I changed the oil and filter, replaced the plugs last night in less then an hour for a total cost 14 dollars in parts including 65 cent BMW crush washer:dunno !.


I use Fram filters and Autolite plugs (try these cheap plugs, what a difference in milage and power!)


like i mentioned, i ran GTX once, back around 18-26K miles on the odo. i noticed a marked decrease in consumption compared to any of the Synthetics i've run (Mobil 1, BMW and Shell Rotella, my winter oil). i didn't continue to use it due to my concerns over the summer heat and riding in traffic. i think i'm gonna give the Castrol 4T stuff a try because it's the first MC specific oil i've seen that isn't markedly more expensive than its automotive counterpart. although i know i don't need the friction modifiers (which is what probably "accounts" for the price diff) i'm guessing the formulation might also be a bit more specifically engineered to the higher speeds of our little motors.

[bikerfish1100]

fwiw- i've been buying from & using this for about the last 5 years http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=52&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=CAS_12594_G&tier2=266 from Cycle Gear. They don't appear to have a store front in NY, but they are in CT and NJ. also, will ship for free if you make a purchase over $100.
I only recently purchased the "V-Twin" version of the ACT-Evo, having previously used the regular stuff. our bikes are a V-Twin, it's just that there's a very wide angle (180 degs) between the cylinders.
maybe that price compares favorably with what you found for the 4T?

[BubbaZanetti]

fwiw- i've been buying from & using this for about the last 5 years http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=52&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=CAS_12594_G&tier2=266 from Cycle Gear. They don't appear to have a store front in NY, but they are in CT and NJ. also, will ship for free if you make a purchase over $100.
I only recently purchased the "V-Twin" version of the ACT-Evo, having previously used the regular stuff. our bikes are a V-Twin, it's just that there's a very wide angle (180 degs) between the cylinders.
maybe that price compares favorably with what you found for the 4T?

very favorably! thanks for the heads up, full synthetic too??? interesting, almost as cheap as the rotella 5W40 i run in the winter.

and it's under $500 for the 55 Gallon Drum:deal (http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-ActEvo-V-Twin-4-Stroke-Motorcycle/dp/B000M4CRLO)

[BeemerMike]

full synthetic too??? interesting, almost as cheap as the rotella 5W40 i run in the winter.[/URL]

The link ad says "synthetic blend". I believe that means part synthetic and part dino. Not clear what the proportions are . . . 50:50? . . . 10:90? . . . 90:10?

There may be a reason it costs about the same as the Rotella. ;)

[bikerfish1100]

The ACT-Evo is a semi-synth, and is also a 4T labeled Castrol product. Tells me that the dino portion is the same as the 4T dino stuff, and the synth is beyond that. If it prices out favorably to your source for straight dino 4T, then its an improvement.

what's wrong with Rotella, MIke? it's one of the top rated oils around.

[Colt03]

Bubba,

You have an non watercooled engine, your best bet is to stay with Mobil 1.

Jeep Grand Cherokee 225000 miles Mobil 1 and filter every 10K .
BMWK1100LT 130000 Mobil 1 & Filter every 10K
Ford Exploder 180,000 miles and Mobil 1 and filter every 10-15K

All with no engine issues.

If I were in NY stopped in traffic trying to go over the GW bridge in 100 f heat, I would only run synthetic.

YMMV

[BuddingGeezer]

This is not an endorsement for BMW oil, Harley oil, Castrol GTX or any other brand oil. It is however some facts.

Most people seem to worry about the oil's weight, is it synthetic or semi-symthetic, and totaly disreguard the API service rating. BMW does not recommend any oil with a API rating of SJ or greater.

http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/reviews/sj_oil/index.html

That pretty much leaves out any auto oil today as they are ratted SM. The lower the letter, the greater the ZDDP.

Why?

The levels of ZDDP have been reduced to preserve the catalytic converters in autos (this bulletin may not apply to cat BMWs?). ZDDP protects the metal when the oil is no longer providing a film between metal to metal when extreme pressures causes the lost of hydrostatic lubrication. People say" that rarely happens in normal driving". Not so. Late model auto engines have roller cams or roller rockers and the pressure between the cam and lifter is not as great as flat tappet cams. The valve spring pressure is enough to cause the loss of hydrostatic lubrication between the cam lobe and shim and valve stem. Thus cam shaft failure. Another key area is wear on the bottom crank shaft bearing.

The best place to study oil is on the muscle car web sites. The flat tappet cams of the 60s muscle cars will not hold up under the SJ and later oils.

I too used to use Castrol GTX in my K100, but I now have gone to Castrol 4T motorcycle oil rated SG/SH. Under $3 a quart at Wal Mart. I think my next oil change will use Valvoline Motorcycle oil rated SF/SG. I can't find any lower than that.

The oil weight is determined by air temperature, the API grade for your engine doesn't change.

Run what you want. But know why.

Ralph Sims

[OfficerImpersonator]

This is not an endorsement for BMW oil, Harley oil, Castrol GTX or any other brand oil. It is however some facts.

Most people seem to worry about the oil's weight, is it synthetic or semi-symthetic, and totaly disreguard the API service rating. BMW does not recommend any oil with a API rating of SJ or greater.

http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/reviews/sj_oil/index.html

That pretty much leaves out any auto oil today as they are ratted SM. The lower the letter, the greater the ZDDP.

Why?

The levels of ZDDP have been reduced to preserve the catalytic converters in autos (this bulletin may not apply to cat BMWs?). ZDDP protects the metal when the oil is no longer providing a film between metal to metal when extreme pressures causes the lost of hydrostatic lubrication. People say" that rarely happens in normal driving". Not so. Late model auto engines have roller cams or roller rockers and the pressure between the cam and lifter is not as great as flat tappet cams. The valve spring pressure is enough to cause the loss of hydrostatic lubrication between the cam lobe and shim and valve stem. Thus cam shaft failure. Another key area is wear on the bottom crank shaft bearing.

The best place to study oil is on the muscle car web sites. The flat tappet cams of the 60s muscle cars will not hold up under the SJ and later oils.

I too used to use Castrol GTX in my K100, but I now have gone to Castrol 4T motorcycle oil rated SG/SH. Under $3 a quart at Wal Mart. I think my next oil change will use Valvoline Motorcycle oil rated SF/SG. I can't find any lower than that.

The oil weight is determined by air temperature, the API grade for your engine doesn't change.

Run what you want. But know why.

Ralph Sims

:thumb Great post - very helpful and informative - thanks for sharing it with us!

[BeemerMike]

what's wrong with Rotella, MIke? it's one of the top rated oils around.

I wasn't making any comment about Rotella. I was making a comment about Bubba's reference/question about "full synthetic" regarding the Castrol ACT-EVO V-Twin oil.

[BuddingGeezer]

what's wrong with Rotella, MIke? it's one of the top rated oils around.

From the BMW Tec bulletin

Recommendation: The current recommendation is as follows:

Brandname HD oil, API classification SF, SG or SH; CD or CE suffixes are permissible; alternatively, brand-name HD oil. CCMC classification G4 or G5; suffix PD2 is permissible.

The C in the API index is for diesel engines. In the past it was probably the best oil for a motorcycle for the money,(IMO) that used that weight. I never found it in 20W50. The new Shell Rotella has reduced levels of ZDDP. I believe the new rating of 15W40 is now CF. Check the jug.

Ralph Sims

[ragman]

Bubba,

You have an non watercooled engine, your best bet is to stay with Mobil 1.

Jeep Grand Cherokee 225000 miles Mobil 1 and filter every 10K .
BMWK1100LT 130000 Mobil 1 & Filter every 10K
Ford Exploder 180,000 miles and Mobil 1 and filter every 10-15K

All with no engine issues.

If I were in NY stopped in traffic trying to go over the GW bridge in 100 f heat, I would
only run synthetic.


YMMV
I recently bought a '95 K1100Lt with 19k. the orginal owner used Castol 20/50 and changed it every 1500 miles. I'm thinking of changing to synthetic.

Do you use auto or motorcycle specific Moble 1? What weight?

Thanx. Ragman