From K to Oil, any Suggestions?

[JimVonBaden1]

Hi everyone, I just purchased an R1100RS 1994 with 49K miles on it, new clutch, new 12K, New head gaskets, factory luggage, new Metz Z4, Olins front shock, Aeroflow windscreen, Aeroflow headlight protector, Hyperlights and a Russell seat, and as clean as factory fresh.

I'm curious if any of you have any comments as to what to look for as far as quirks, maintenance, nice add-ons?

The only concern I have coming off a K75S is the vibration. I knew that an R bike vibrated, but this seemed more than I expected.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Jim
:brow

[jdcoffman]

About a year and a half ago I got back into motorcycles after about twenty two year hiatus. My last bike was a 1974 R90S I'm pretty much stuck on BMW. Had know idea that the bikes had changed all that much. (airhead-oilhead etc), I saw some brochures and thought that the R1100RT or 1150rt was what I wanted, but I ended up with a 2000 R1100RS my mind is younger than my body....Anyway I have done all the minor maintance myself found a lot of good things on the inter-net. I am really amazed at how much vibration goes away after I adjust the valves and sinc the throttle bodies.
It still buzzes but it is a lot smoother with everything in sinc.
The first time I rode this bike it only took about fifteen minutes for my hands to fall asleep so one the first thing I put on was a throttle rocker and then I bought a throttle miester. Ever so helpful to beable to release the throttle and shake out the numbness. I guess I am pretty lucky my oil-head doesn't surge.

[JimVonBaden1]

Originally posted by jdcoffman
About a year and a half ago I got back into motorcycles after about twenty two year hiatus. My last bike was a 1974 R90S I'm pretty much stuck on BMW. Had know idea that the bikes had changed all that much. (airhead-oilhead etc), I saw some brochures and thought that the R1100RT or 1150rt was what I wanted, but I ended up with a 2000 R1100RS my mind is younger than my body....Anyway I have done all the minor maintance myself found a lot of good things on the inter-net. I am really amazed at how much vibration goes away after I adjust the valves and sinc the throttle bodies.
It still buzzes but it is a lot smoother with everything in sinc.
The first time I rode this bike it only took about fifteen minutes for my hands to fall asleep so one the first thing I put on was a throttle rocker and then I bought a throttle miester. Ever so helpful to beable to release the throttle and shake out the numbness. I guess I am pretty lucky my oil-head doesn't surge.

Thanks,

I had a feeling that the vibration was caused by the valve adjustment and possibly a throttle body sinc. Even though I was told it just had a 12K service.

Jim :brow

[kbasa]

Congratulations and welcome to RS ownership!

JD's totally right. Careful tuning is the key to having a smooth RS. Also, as they age, they get smoother. Go figure. Ours, which is also a 94, has 66K on it and is pretty smooth now.

Over on AdvRider.com, you can find the OVAD (Oilhead Valve Adjustment for Dummies) in their Hall of Wisdom. I think they have a TB sync for Dummies now too. Excrutiatingly detailed, but very, very worth having.

[dbrick]

I rode a K75S for nine years. In 1997, the dealer pointed to a 1996 R1100RSL with 11K and said "Go try that out." I took it up over some genuinely gnarly pavement in the hills and just loved the front end.

The RS now has 76K. It's a wonderful ride. Engine vibration is higher amplitude and lower frequency than the K-type. I find it much preferable, and have never needed or wanted a throttle rocker or Wrist Rest. Your descriptions of hand-numbing vibration suggests any or all of:

a) the throttle bodies are out of synch;

b) the bars aren't set (angled) correctly for your wrists; and/or

c) you're holding on too tightly.

It's a very nice piece of machinery. If the off-idle throttle response (especially deceleration) were less abrupt, it'd be about perfect.

[DarkCloud]

Vibration. new head gaskets, they need to be retorqued, valves set and the TB's resynch'd. Vibration is generally a predecessor to surging.

To get the problem solved, first you have to find a mechanic that cares about his work. Some mechanics will set the valves with a pass/fail gauge. That's good, but not good enough. Pre 97 TB synch's are harder to get done right than the 97 and later models.

Hand numbness, you are in a different riding position with more weight on your hands than on the K bike. Is your right hand going numb before your left? The 1100 oilheads aren't happy campers between 3200 and 3800 rpm. Your bike should be running about 70-75 mph on the clock at this rpm in fifth. This converts to 65 to 68 mph.

I'd get the bike sorted out at the 54K service. Then it will be ready for nationals. JON

[JimVonBaden1]

Originally posted by dbrick
... Your descriptions of hand-numbing vibration suggests any or all of:

a) the throttle bodies are out of synch;

b) the bars aren't set (angled) correctly for your wrists; and/or

c) you're holding on too tightly.

It's a very nice piece of machinery. If the off-idle throttle response (especially deceleration) were less abrupt, it'd be about perfect.

I love the handling on the bike, but I haven't had a chance to adjust the handlebars yet, which have barbacks on them.

I doubt it's that becuase the vibration is a deep rumbling vibration and not a buzz. It isn't my grip as I have learned with my K bike to grip lightly.

I'm still leaning towards a tune up of sorts, including now a throttle body sinc, a valve adjustment and new Autolite spark plugs ala Dave.

Thanks for the info and the encouragement.

Jim :brow

[JimVonBaden1]

Originally posted by Dark Cloud
Vibration. new head gaskets, they need to be retorqued, valves set and the TB's resynch'd. Vibration is generally a predecessor to surging.

To get the problem solved, first you have to find a mechanic that cares about his work. Some mechanics will set the valves with a pass/fail gauge. That's good, but not good enough. Pre 97 TB synch's are harder to get done right than the 97 and later models.

Hand numbness, you are in a different riding position with more weight on your hands than on the K bike. Is your right hand going numb before your left? The 1100 oilheads aren't happy campers between 3200 and 3800 rpm. Your bike should be running about 70-75 mph on the clock at this rpm in fifth. This converts to 65 to 68 mph.

I'd get the bike sorted out at the 54K service. Then it will be ready for nationals. JON

I didn't think about that. Will the valves need to be readjusted when the heads are retorqued?

Jim :brow

[kbasa]

Oh - Be aware that the torque peak on that bike is at about 4K rpms and the hp peak is at redline. These bikes are much happier if you rev them.

If you're toodling around at 3K, they'll protest with grumbling and heavy vibration from the engine room.

[JimVonBaden1]

Originally posted by KBasa
Oh - Be aware that the torque peak on that bike is at about 4K rpms and the hp peak is at redline. These bikes are much happier if you rev them.

If you're toodling around at 3K, they'll protest with grumbling and heavy vibration from the engine room.

Good to know. I could pull from 3k to redline on the K bike without protest. The torque on the K is so linear you often forget what gear you are in. It will be hard not to have the gear indicator anymore, but maybe I wont need it.

Jim :brow

[LICK MY BRICK]

Hey Jim good luck with you new r1100rs,sorry to hear what happened to you,and your K75S on your trip.It never seems to amaze me how people try to pass another car while in a blind curve.

[JimVonBaden1]

Originally posted by LICK MY BRICK
Hey Jim good luck with you new r1100rs,sorry to hear what happened to you,and your K75S on your trip.It never seems to amaze me how people try to pass another car while in a blind curve.

Thanks Jayson,

Looks like you have a nice bike yourself.

It's funny that the incident with the car passing on the corner still doesn't bother me as much as the dead squirell. I'm NOT an animal person either. I guess I just don't like killing. That and the idiots in the cages so commonly drive like fools that I am used to it.

Jim :brow

[JimVonBaden1]

I have a nicely broken in, but still in excellent shape Russell "Day-Long" saddle with leather seating surface for the driver and synthetic for the passenger. It comes with a cover, and conditioner. It's looks great, no tears. New it was almost $600.

What I need is a seat with similar contours to stock, but better padded for my big butt. My legs are too short for the Russell "wings," and I have a hard time putting my feet down. Since I use my bike for commuting as well as weekend trips of more than 500 mile days, I need to get a new seat.

[BradfordBenn]

Perfect for me on my RT. And one can roll up the anon book and place it in the tool tube.

Also the revs are a big difference. I was running my RT like it was my previous non-BMW bike and keeping the revs low, it was a cruiser. Since getting more time and talking with the dealer and stuff, I am running at 3K+ almost all the time, 4K is pretty common. It made a huge difference in the fun factor.

Also depending on what cases you have on, it is fun to show up to work with all the cases off the bike and the windshield all the way down. People think it is a different bike.

[JimVonBaden1]

Originally posted by BradfordBenn
Perfect for me on my RT. And one can roll up the anon book and place it in the tool tube.

Also the revs are a big difference. I was running my RT like it was my previous non-BMW bike and keeping the revs low, it was a cruiser. Since getting more time and talking with the dealer and stuff, I am running at 3K+ almost all the time, 4K is pretty common. It made a huge difference in the fun factor.

Also depending on what cases you have on, it is fun to show up to work with all the cases off the bike and the windshield all the way down. People think it is a different bike.

It's very different from my K. On it I could stay in 3-4 gear through the twisties and never have to shift. On the R1100RS I have to continiously shift up and down to stay between 4-7K rpm. It's more work, but the handling and power make it worth it. I love the handling and balance of the R bike. Makes the K seem slow and awkward.

Jim :brow