Oil Change - White Smoke

[jforgo]

here's a (not so) good one. I changed my oil and filter in my 1980 r100rt. Went from the BMW 20w50 to the Valvoline 20w50 4 stroke for motorcycles (leftover from yamaha days). Filled to midway on dipstick..
I always park on centerstand overnite, and now both pipes smoke when I fire up in morning.
Once it is warmed up, smoke goes away, but will do so once again if parked for a few hours.
I have heard this is a sign of needing valve guides; but at the same time I dissected my oil filter and found no visible bronze chunks.
Is Valvoline 4 stroke bad oil?
Did the new filter/o ring increase my oil pressure, and someting is now pumped up into somewhere clogging something?
Does this need a dose of synthetic?
There was no sign of any of this until I changed my oil
Very strange...

[20774]

It sounds like you've done nothing wrong. I don't see where the oil filter/o-ring/shim (did you use a shim??) would necessarily cause this. But the change of oil...any reasons why the change in type? What do you mean by "4 stroke for motorcycles"? BMW's oil is 4 stroke and also for motorcycles. What is the API rating of the Valvoline oil? This will probably start an oil thread, but recommendation is that the API rating be no higher than SG/SH. Is the Valvoline part synthetic or totally petroleum based? My choice would not be synthetic...I can't see where that would help or hurt the situation.

Since all you've done is change oil and the filter...my guess is that the oil is the problem.

[Polarbear]

The API on the Valvoline is right according to the owners manuals. I just put the Valvoline 20/50 m/c specific in mine and no issues. It has the same API as the BMW stuff, by Spectro and its noticably cheaper at 3.69$ a qt. and found in so many more places. My BMW Dealers are selling standard oil for near 9 bucks a qt. and have lost my business on the oil sales:). Over 12$ for full synthetic, what a joke! If you think Spectro is bottling gold for your bike, with BMW branded on the bottle, more power to you:). Randy13233:thumb :usa

[jforgo]

I did the new o-ring and shim when I changed the oil. I also verified the canister depth measurement as OK.

Any way, with the BMW dealer closed Monday, I went to a local MC shop. Since the bike design dates from leaded gas days, and I have heard way too many tales of synthetics cleaning so well that seals start to leak, I looked for a dino oil with metals in it. I was actually hoping for a label stating not to use with catalytics.
The closest thing I could find was some stuff called "Maxum4" 20W50, with an SG/CC/MA rating. They claim some sort of "trimetallic" technology. With what had just happened to me, I felt there was nothing to lose.

I changed the oil and toped it back up last nite. This morning the smoke was diminished. I am hopefully wondering how this will look this afternoon.

As to the Valvoline, it has an SG/SH/SJ?MA rating. Interestingly no Diesel rating, like the Maxum. The SJ I believe means less metals in it (?) The guys at the MC shop said they weren't aware Valvoline made a MC oil. Right now I am not sure they do, either.

I am still wondering if there is high oil pressure, and/or a resulting obstruction in the head oil drain. What are signs of high oil pressure? How does the oil get back out of the head/valve cover area? I could not find a proper lubrication diagram.

[20774]

Here is an oiling diagram and discussion:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/oilsketch.htm

The oil gets to the head/valve area via the upper engine studs...there's a small hole at the engine case that feeds oil. It drains back through the pushrod tubes basically by gravity.

The oil you're looking for should have good quantities of zinc and phosphate...I think the term is ZDDP. They began phasing this out with the SH/SJ oils because it clogged catalytic convertors. I believe Castrol makes an SG rated oil...last time I saw it at Walmart...that seemed interesting.

[BuddingGeezer]

The Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil has a SF rating which is better than the Castrol 4T motorcycle oil which is SG rated.

The levels of ZDDP in the oil should not have any effect on engine smoking.

Ralph Sims

[DARRYL CAINEY]

I have been using Valvoline 20w50 for 21 years and 350,000 of the 435,000 miles on my 1977 R00RS. The oil is not the problem!
Once in a while all the rings line up in the bottom of the cylinder and oil will seep by causing some black smoke on start up but not white smoke. Is there a chance that the old oil you found was contaminated with water to cause white smoke?

Darryl

[535is]

Uhhh, white smoke is coolant ... :scratch


Oil burns blue.

[The_Veg]

Uhhh, white smoke is coolant ... :scratch

Or a new pope.

[tkpinsc]

Uhhh, white smoke is coolant ... :scratch


Oil burns blue.

Water/moisture in the gas?

[jforgo]

Interesting - i had not thought about fuel contamination for thr white smoke. i had always heard that was a valve guide sign

We are probably getting that horrid CA winter gas here still.

Anyway, this afternoon the smoking was about a 3 second burst - on the same tank. This versus 3 minute clouds. I am wonderoing if the "car spec"MC oil washed out some stuff which is now beng replaced

I am not liking this Valvoline...

[donbmw]

Just a thought had you fill the gas tank just before this. When I work at a Honda Dealer we had a guy put desiel in the tank. After we drained everything. We starting the bike and it pump out white smoke for awhile.

Don

[benway]

white sounds like the carb is loaded up

Id check the choke wasnt sticking or something else to make a rich when cold condition

I think oil is more white/blue and theres no logic to me, to the oil making a difference

hope that helps

[jforgo]

Well, the new oil does seem to make it run a bit quieter. And the startup smoke is way diminished. i am thinking anything past spec SG is no good...
Thanks for the lube system drawing!
I have filled it back up - hopefully the last of the awful CA winter fuel is burned up. But even the summer stuff seems to be worse, from what I have heard.
Anyway, 65mph windstorms here today, so didn't use it.
Now, the carb idea, especially considering the horrid fuel here, is something I had not thought of. Perhaps it is time for the full SeaFoam treatment - load it up stall it, let it soak in, then restart. Did wonders last year for my lawnmower, so maybe...

[535is]

Y'know, I gotta love a place where a standard Smartass© remark about coolant in an airhead generates, first, an even funnier Smartass© remark (a new Pope :ha) and then, an even better answer (water or crap in the carbs).