New (used) Brick

[ragman]

Just bought a '95 K1100LT. I am jazzed!

One owner with 19K miles. I finally got tired of pushing around 900lb. behemoths i.e Venture. RSTD, acouple of Harleys. All good bikes, but my affections are on this K.

The bike has received oil changes every 1500 miles and is a one owner in near perfect condition.

I once owned an '80 R100 RT and did the valve adjustments myself. This K seems alot more intense. How critical is the valve adjustment?

Should I bring it to BMW for a complete 19K go over? I think I know the answer but I really cringe (cheapskate sometimes!) with the $600 bill,especially since I just shelled out 4 large for the bike.

Thank you,
Ragman

[PAULBACH]

Once the valves are adjusted on the K-Bikes they remain pretty stable unlike older airheads. The K-Bikes use a series of shims to adjust the valves.

Since the bike is no longer under warranty, why not ask other BMW riders in area for recommendations of mechanics who are not dealership employed.

From another thread by 98lee:

Your intakes are right on. Your exhausts are desperately in need of adjustment. Very typical.

The intakes rarely need adjusting. As you surmised, the only thing that changes them is wear. They are very well lubricated.

On the other hand, exhaust valves (and seats) have to deal with tremendous temperatures. What changes the exhaust clearances is a process called valve recession. That is the valve literally sinks deeper and deeper into the head (seat), thereby closing up the clearances on the cam end. This gives less seat time to cool the valve which increases the rate of recession.

Eventually the clearances get so little that when the engine heats up the exhaust valve never completely closes, leading to poor idle, stalling, poor power and burnt valves.

Fix it now! Then resync the throttle bodies. You will be amazed how much stronger (especially at high RPM) and smoother it will be. You will find out why people who have good running K75s get hooked on them.




Intake: 0.15-0.20 mm (0.006-0.008 in.)
Exhaust: 0.25-0.30 mm (0.010-0.012 in.)


If you have to make an adjustment shoot for:
Intake: 0.15mm (0.006 in.)
Exhaust:0.25mm (0.012 in.)

Tight side of spec on intake and loose side of spec on exhaust.

All measurements COLD (head temp less than 95 deg.F.)

[tessler]

Hey Ragman, Welcome and congrats on the new K bike. :thumb

Peace of mind: if you've got the spare coin and are close to the dealer, bring it in. You'll definitely receive much more than the valves and won't regret it (I did just that when I got my own used low-mileage single-owner K a few years ago).

Enjoy! And don't forget to post pix. :D

[98lee]

The post referred to by Paul is for a 2valve K75. What happens with the valves is similar, but the specs. are probably different for your 4valve K1100.

CHECKING the valve clearances is a very straight forward and fairly easy job on a 2valve K. I BELIEVE it would also be the case on the 4valve K1100. I have never had the occasion to look.

Actually CHANGING the clearances is quite a bit more work and usually requires some special tools and appropriate shims.

My recomendation is to get a Clymers manual for your K1100 (you're going to need one anyway) and read the section on CHECKING the valve clearances. If it is something that you feel comfortable doing, then CHECK them. They very well could all be fine.

If they need adjusting, cross that bridge when you get to it. In the mean time, go ride. You've got a GREAT bike!


:dance :dance :dance

[Paul_F]

Welcome to the Dark Side of the Indestructible Flying Bricks.:dance

[SheRidesABeemer]

Congrats, post pics!!

[john1691]

I would think the K1100 is similar to the K1200, which, while time consuming to change shims, is not difficult. Clymer manual, feeler gauges, (plus your normal metric tools) a couple hours and a buddy for moral support.

Pictures, did you get the idea yet that we all like pictures?!?

[98lee]

\ Clymer manual, feeler gauges, (plus your normal metric tools) a couple hours and a buddy for moral support.

Plus an INCH/pound torque wrench. Typical FOOT/pound torque wrenches are not accurate at the low torque values that the cam journals need to be retorqued to.


CHECKING takes no special tools and is very straight forward and only requires removing the valve cover and the spark plugs. It can be done easily in a couple hours. Then you can put the valve cover and plugs back and go ride until you are ready to or need to ADJUST the valves.

Get the Clymer's manual and CHECK them. Then you will know, and have piece of mind.


:dance :dance :dance

[mrich12000]

NICE RIDE, MANY YEARS OF ADVENTURING:thumb :german :usa :ca :bar :boldpurpl :boldpurpl :rocker

[john1691]

Plus an INCH/pound torque wrench. Typical FOOT/pound torque wrenches are not accurate at the low torque values that the cam journals need to be retorqued to.


Good point, the studs will snap off fairly easily when trying to use the wrong torque wrench, learned that the hard way.............:doh

[ragman]

Thanks for all the great advice!
Although the bike is bone stock, I'll get some pics up straight away.
Ragman

[ragman]

Another question.
The front brake lever does not fully return. and the brake lite stays on unless I nug the lever back.
I noticed that the fluid was low and added some to the correct level.
What does that indicate?
Thank you,
Ragman

[warredon]

Another question.
The front brake lever does not fully return. and the brake lite stays on unless I nug the lever back.
I noticed that the fluid was low and added some to the correct level.
What does that indicate?
Thank you,
Ragman


Ragman, when I bought my 91 K1 about a year and a half ago the front brake lever did the same thing. It wasn't long after that when the front master cylinder started leaking. When I took it apart to clean it and replace the piston and seal, I found some nasty hardened crap under the rubber boot cover that looked like it was interfering with it's return. It appeared that the brake fluid hadn't been changed in quite awhile, so I changed it during the master cylinder repair. All has been well since, no more leaks and the lever now returns fully as it should.

[ragman]

Don,I think I may have the same problem that you described.

Can I take it apart and clean it with out draining and bleeding the whole system?

I think I may have BMW fix it when I bring it in for a go thru this week. I just don't want them to rebuild the whole cylinder if it doesn't need it. Some times these guys get a little carried away, if you know what I mean!

Thank you everyone for your advice.
Ragman

[warredon]

Don,I think I may have the same problem that you described.

Can I take it apart and clean it with out draining and bleeding the whole system?

I think I may have BMW fix it when I bring it in for a go thru this week. I just don't want them to rebuild the whole cylinder if it doesn't need it. Some times these guys get a little carried away, if you know what I mean!

Thank you everyone for your advice.
Ragman


Here is the tutorial that I used. Click Here (http://www.largiader.com/tech/r11mc/) A lot of the models seem to use the same master cylinder. You may try to find out when the fluid was last changed. If it has been over a year or two, you should go ahead and change it. Brake fluid in a motorcycle seems to easily absorb moisture.

If you take it to a dealer they might try to talk you into a whole new master cylinder. There really is not much to rebuilding one. The bore in mine was still smooth with no scuffs, so I just cleaned it and used some extra fine sandpaper on it, then installed the new piston. Here is where I bought my repair piston. Click Here (http://www.beemerboneyard.com/32722332037.html) It is easy to install and fairly inexpensive. I hope this helps!

[ragman]

Thanx for the help. I examined the clylinder and it was pretty scored. So I had the dealer put on a new one. $303.00 + $67.00 labor. Win some, lose some.
Thought about doing it myself,but with heated grips, I got lazy.
Thanx again.
Ragman

[bmwrn]

Ragman, I've had a 1993 for 15 years and like you I tend to be on the frugal side.(i'd skin a fart for the hide and tallow). The 4valve motors have bucket shims that are used to adjust valve clearance. I have't needed any for my last major service but the last time I checked they were around $30 each. The most I used was 6 I think when the bike was fairly new. The bike is a great ride for not much money, relatively speaking. I also have the abs default light on. I'm worried it's the ABS computer which is $1200 or more I've been told. For all the expense it's hard to find a more protected ride in Maine where I call home. That being said I now have it up for sale. Imiss my R90S.I had for 18 years and have purchased a 1992 100RT. which I hope to put some miles on this year if the snow ever goes away. Happy motoring and enjoy your new baby. mike

[GregFeeler]

Ragman, I've had a 1993 for 15 years and like you I tend to be on the frugal side.(i'd skin a fart for the hide and tallow). The 4valve motors have bucket shims that are used to adjust valve clearance. I have't needed any for my last major service but the last time I checked they were around $30 each. The most I used was 6 I think when the bike was fairly new. The bike is a great ride for not much money, relatively speaking. I also have the abs default light on. I'm worried it's the ABS computer which is $1200 or more I've been told. For all the expense it's hard to find a more protected ride in Maine where I call home. That being said I now have it up for sale. Imiss my R90S.I had for 18 years and have purchased a 1992 100RT. which I hope to put some miles on this year if the snow ever goes away. Happy motoring and enjoy your new baby. mike


I got a very good deal on a 1990 K1 in large part because the ABS light stayed on. I used the master reset procedure listed on the IBMR site K-bike tech section to clear it and it's worked perfectly for five years. The head wrench at my local shop wasn't able to clear it and was pretty impressed with the process when I told him what I did. You might try it - nothing to lose. http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

[ragman]

I got a very good deal on a 1990 K1 in large part because the ABS light stayed on. I used the master reset procedure listed on the IBMR site K-bike tech section to clear it and it's worked perfectly for five years. The head wrench at my local shop wasn't able to clear it and was pretty impressed with the process when I told him what I did. You might try it - nothing to lose. http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

Great Site!!! Thank you,
Ragman