Help?

[docsavage59]

OK... I'm a good chiropractor but not much of a wrench (as illustrated by this post)... Tried to take the engine cover off my R80rt but I'm afraid I've stripped the allen bolts that hold it on... Is there any alternative to drilling them out? Is there any suitable substitute for the OEM bolts that could be purchased at a regular auto-parts store? There's no BMW dealership in my town...

[lkchris]

By stripped, I'd assume you mean the internal hex in the screw heads as opposed to the screws' threads.

easyout might be an alternative to drilling the heads off, but no promises and no experience here with screws this small. A problem could be how much screw shaft is left for your vise grips after drilling the head off--I wouldn't count on the screw being loose once the head's gone.

It's indeed a nasty one. Perhaps Anton or some of the others that see lots of these bikes regularly will have better suggestions and I'd wait for them to reply or even send them a PM.

I suspect you can't get a similar bolt locally and if you could it most likely wouldn't be near the quality.

Nothing wrong with the OE bolts, just a tough place to get a wrench on straight and a typical dissimilar metal situation suggesting use of antiseize.

[GrantMacEachern]

Do you mean the hex-socket or the threads are stripped?
Either way, a machine shop should be able to extract them for you.
If the threads are seized, i.e. corroded, a liberal dose of liquid-wrench or similar may work. It might take a while, as in a few weeks of applications.
If it is the hex-socket, you could do a little back yard magic and jb weld in a sacrificial allen key and try that. the torque might break the jb weld bond, but then again it might work.

[docsavage59]

Because the threads are seized, the internal hex-head is now "wallowed-out" (as we say in the south)... The JB weld idea sounds intriguing...

[Bill Burke]

If you still have a little purchase on the inside of the hexhead with the allen, you might try some valve grinding compound (machine shop) along with some fine steel wool (a little bit in the hole to take up the slack). The application of some hair dryer heat on the engine case around the bolt (but not on the bolt) prior to applying torque might help as well. Just a thought.

[beemerguru]

First, DISCONNECT THE GROUND CABLE ;-)

Having both go south is a rare one. If you drill staight into the head of the socket head of the bolt about 2-3 mm, that takes the head off and you can slide the cover straight off over the rest of the bolts. Spray some form of penetrating oil in there and wait a little bit while you go buy or get a small vice grip.

There will be enough of the bolt left so you can take the vice grip and remove the remains.

If there's a decent hardware store around, this is a standard metric socket head bolt and sometimes a small washer that fits in the cover.

I think the torque pressure on these bolts in something like 12 lbs so don't go overboard or you may be here again

[ccolwell]

Although I agree the stok bolts are fine, there are always better bolts -- once you get this one out. Look at mcmaster.com for stainless steel or other high end fasteners. On the other hand, a tube of copper anti-seize will last a very long time.

[k100lt]

OK Doc, here is a trick that works for me:

1. Get an EZ-Out that is slightly smaller in diameter than the stripped out internal hex head. Now take the EZ-Out to your vise and while it is held in the vise "smack" the tip "smartly" with a hammer, this will break off the narrower tip and give you a new tip that will better engage the sides of the stripped out internal hex head.

2. Without being to aggressive, tap the EZ-Out into the stripped out internal hex head bolt until it is fairly secure.


3. With the appropriate size socket and ratchet attached to the EZ-Out and while
applying inward pressure, turn the ratchet/socket/EZ-Out combo to unscrew the
bolt.

4. Also, "calibrated" tapping on the screw will help break it free

5. Another good technique for removing the other "good" internal hex heads is to use the appropriate size allen wrench that is attached to a socket. Before you try to turn the bolt, give it a few good taps to help break the bolt free. Then instead of using a constant force to unscrew it, apply a quick "slap" force to your ratchet handle. This acts as slight "impact wrench" affect. It will either break the screw free or the internal hex will give way as you experienced with the first one. In that case you can go back to the EZ-Out technique.

P.S. Sears carries a Craftsman screw removal set that works on the same principal as the EZ- Out but it is rather pricey. I don't think you can buy just the individual tools.

Hope this helps.

[keelerb]

Another idea might be to take an allen key one size larger than the one that would fit, and hammer it (gently but firmly) into the now-oversized/stripped hole. Penetrating oil first, and valve grinding compound on the oversized allen key, are useful here too. Good luck.

[Polarbear]

Just in case somebody put "locktite" on the bolts the last time in there, which is a bad idea for these particular bolts, USE a "heat gun" to loosen the locktite:). Nobody generally locktites these, because they are a regular serviced bolt, but one never knows! I agree with above, as most good hardware stores sell various easy outs to fit any application and allen heads beg for this to be tried:). Best of luck, Doc....Randy13233:thumb :usa

[tghsmith]

the trick to try is to try to get some penatrating oil to the threads , soak or spray the cover seam area for a day or two, maybe some gentle heat a time or too over the day, rap on the bolt head(don't beat) to loosen oxidation, use a dremel and cut a slot so you can use a large screwdriver on the bolt, if it still won't free-up carefully drill off the bolt head, as mentioned above you can the use a vise grips on the remaining stud like section that is left, but start again with the oil and gentle heat process, you don't want to loose the threads , always use anti seize on these bolts and a fresh wave washer if needed, do not use a cut style lock washer as it will provide a path for water to get to the threads and start this all over again. good luck.