1150 RT questions

[edge51]

Ok - as I stated in my intro post I am a long time Harley rider that just purchased an "04 R 1150 RT. I have put in my first 500 miles and have some questions. I plan to ask these same questions at the dealer during my 600 mile service and will use your answers to evaluate my dealers responce.

1. Vibration ? This is the most troublesome aspect of the bike. The amount of hand grip vibration is really surprising. I realize that because it is different from the Harley throb - lets call it a BMW buzz - that I may be noticing it more. I love the heated grips and dont want to lose them. Anyone have suggestions for hand grips that dampen the vibration and retain the heat option ?

2. I plan a trip to Alaska, leaving late June. I am going to blow right past the 6000 mile service on this trip (prolly close to 10k when I return) and wonder what I will need to plan to do on the trip. I reviewed the maintenance specs. I will definately do an oil change while on the trip - leave with fresh oil and change about the half-way point. I notice it also calls for valve adjustment at 6k - is this something really needed and if so can I do it in a campground ? Throttle sync needs checked also if I don this I gather? I also notice something called a poly V belt that needs adjustment - what the heck is that ?

3. Tried riding with my tank bag - it tends to set off the horn on left u turns - any tricks folks to avoid this ?

That's it folks. Thanks in advance to those that respond. Feel free to add any tips you have for a long trip. I love the bike and feel I am going to have a much easier and fun ride than my Harley could of provided.

[kbasa]

As far as vibration goes, unlike HDs, BMWs love to be revved. I run mine at 4K plus all day long and it's very, very smooth. Also, as the bike ages, it'll get smoother. Mine have typically had a big change at about 20K or so and again at 30. Our RS with 66K on it is quite smooth now. They can also be very sensitive to proper balancing of the throttle bodies. This, in combination with a careful valve adjustment, yields the biggest gains in smoothness.

Tank bags? I use the BMW ones, which don't honk the horn.

You can definitely do the valve adjustment on the road, probably with the tools under the seat. You might want to practice in your garage before you go, but it's easily done at home. Over on Advrider.com, check the Hall of Wisdom and pull down OVAD, which detail, in excrutiating detail, how to do a valve adjustment on an oilhead.

[Wes]

As to vibration, beemers definitely have a buzz in the hand grips so it is hard to tell whether you are referring to the normal "buzz" or if yours is doing more than normal. I do remember that towards the end of my first 600 miles on my gs I thought somebody had thrown a bunch of rocks in my engine it ran so rough and really vibrated as a result. Smoothed out immediately after the first service and has gotten smoother ever sense. It is said that the beemer engine takes a good while to break in fully (I've read as much as 20k) - mine became significantly smoother at around 15k. So I would mention it to the dealer but consider refraining from doing anything about it until you get back from the initial service and see if things have changed.

Horn honking is a problem too with a large tank bag on an RT. I woke up a small Italian village one evening when I pulled into the hotel parking lot on a 1100 rt - frickin' tank bag. My berlitz book didn't have a section on accidental tank bag horn honking to explain to the annoyed proprietor. I could avoid the problem by slightly pushing the tank bag to the right when I was going to full lock the handlebars - but it remained annoying.

[Mr. Frank]

The bike really gets smoother with more mileage. At 13K now mine is very smooth in 6th gear running from 70 on up. Vibration is just not a problem anymore. Having the valves properly adjusted and the throttle bodies balanced is important for smoothness. After your service you may be pleasantly surprised.

My Marsee 20L teardrop bag doesn't beep the horn.

[edge51]

thanks for the replies and info. Thanks Kbasa for the web site. The tech stuff on that site is excellent and answered a lot of questions I did not even know I had. Hehee, even let me figure out that the poly v-belt is the alternator belt.

I must say I am impressed by the quick info you guys got me.

The vibration is prolly normal. Is not that bed really, but is different from my Harley so I notice it more. As suggested I will wait till after the 600 mile service and see.

Thanks again.

[dlearl476]

IMHO, the three most important services for your bike are the 600, 6K, and 12K service. You sound like you have the tech savy to do the valves, but you're new to Bimmers. I'd let a trained pro give your baby the once over. Check for dealers along the route, ask here if one is to be avoided or sought out. In my travels, I've been given GREAT service as a "touring" rider, often with little or no notice. If you were going to possibbly miss the 24K service I'd say no big deal, but I wouldn't scrimp on the 6K, especially in the middle of a long trip.
btw, if you're looking at ~10k on a trip, you might want to buy a set of tires and have 'em shipped to wherever you're looking to get a service. Chances are your OEM rubber ain't gonna make it home.

Tank bags? Yeah, my Wolfman does that on my K75. What REALLY annoys me is that if ALWAYS scares the s**t out of me, even after 5 years! Moving the bag out of the way does help, if you remember!:snore

[edge51]

thanks David. Looks like there are dealers in both Fairbanks and Anchorage that I can call and arrange service. Map says St. Paul to Anchorage is 3500 miles so that will work - I tend to wander a bit so for me that will be more like 4500 miles.

Anyone have info on either of these dealers ?

[YB in IN]

Originally posted by edge51
thanks David. Looks like there are dealers in both Fairbanks and Anchorage that I can call and arrange service. Map says St. Paul to Anchorage is 3500 miles so that will work - I tend to wander a bit so for me that will be more like 4500 miles.

Anyone have info on either of these dealers ?

Though not firsthand experience, I've been told by riders who have gone that way to schedule service ahead of time. Evidently with the short riding season they have they try to make a priority of their local rider base.

[DDHR1150RT]

Originally posted by edge51
thanks David. Looks like there are dealers in both Fairbanks and Anchorage that I can call and arrange service. Map says St. Paul to Anchorage is 3500 miles so that will work - I tend to wander a bit so for me that will be more like 4500 miles.

Anyone have info on either of these dealers ?

I used the BMW dealer in Anchorage, very nice and accomodating people (unlike the Fairbanks group)! Anchorage folks took me in as a drive in (I really needed tires!) but, I would definitely make arrangements ahead of time for your servicing as they are the only "good" place to go in Alaska and have (depending on the season) limited parts resources.

Do plan on a tire change though as the roads on the Alkan Highway will eat your tires much faster than in the Lower States.

Take care riding and let me know if you need any additional information on Alaska. Also browse this forum for past topics on Alaska riding. You should find some good stuff here or on the Adventure site.

[rapz]

I just had my 6K Service (04 RT) and it was definitely smoother after they adjusted the valves. I have to ride 265 miles for my BMW service so I can really tell the difference since I make the drive up and back the same day. I'd make sure to get the service done somewhere along your drive.:brow

[Wes]

Originally posted by rapz
I have to ride 265 miles for my BMW service so I can really tell the difference since I make the drive up and back the same day.

Now that is quite a day! I've got three dealerships in my area (two within 20 min. and one within an hour) and I sometimes grumble about the distance. I need to quit my crying!