View Full Version : Hydraulic clutch "adjustment"?
twins4life
02-18-2008, 06:24 AM
After replacing the clutch slave cylinder, the clutch release point is too close to the handle bars, even with the adjuster set on 3.
I have bled the system 3 times so air is not a issue.
There is a small adjustment screw on the clutch lever, instinct tells me to ask before messing with it.
Any comments appreciated.
wanderer
02-18-2008, 08:35 AM
It is my understanding that the engagement/release point is non-adjustable. As you stated, the lever "reach" is adjustable with the dial thingy. I have a '01 R1150.
jingdog
02-18-2008, 01:55 PM
Hmm if it is too close to the bars I would guess you arent getting the full throw of the clutch cylinder. That would suggest to me there IS in fact air in the system in spite of having been bled three times. Just an uneducated guess on my part. I would keep bleeding the thing.
Andy VH
02-18-2008, 02:26 PM
I'm with jingdog on this one. Just because you hve bled it three times doesn't mean you got all the air out.
Air in a hydraulic system is compressible. When you pull on the lever much of the stroke is likely lost to compression of trapped air.
When I replaced the brake hose on my Honda XL600 dirt bike, it took my at least a 1/2 hour of constant brake pumping/bleeding to get the air out of just one brake hose.
This may be a good application for a Speedbleeder nipple in place of the stock bleeder nipple. I installed Speedbleeder nipples on the brakes of my 94 R1100RS and I can bleed the entire brake system in about 1/2 hour.
twins4life
02-18-2008, 06:02 PM
That is exactly what I thought at first, air in the system compressing.
But the last two bleeding sessions didnt produce any bubbles. I have two bottles of BMW Dot 4 left, I will bleed it again. Perhaps I am working the clutch lever too gently (to avoid the squirt out of the master cylinder on release). After all, the system is being bled downhll and the air wants to rise.
I have a thing I bought on EBay that is like a speed bleeder. It is a check valve on a clear line that fits over the bleed nipple. It is basically a speed bleeder I can move to any bleed nipple.
manicmechanic
02-18-2008, 09:15 PM
I have found in several cases that this technique works - place an old towel over the tank and other painted surfaces. Ensure the master cylinder is full, then pump the lever a few times and hold it. Break loose the bolt at the banjo fitting at the master cylinder and see if you don't get some air out. Snug up the banjo fitting and repeat until you only get fluid. Top up the reservoir, clean up the mess, and go for a ride.
twins4life
02-19-2008, 04:25 AM
That sounds like a good idea. I'll see if I can reach the banjo fitting since it is all back together.
BTW, I like your R-90/6, I wish I had mine back. Less to go wrong and much easier to service. I'm looking for a R-90/6 or R-100/7.
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