Schaeffers 267 80w90

[wozerd]

Recently having purchased an 04 R1150RT with only 8500 miles on it. And, having read as much as I can about the maintenance (I am 60-- intend to make this my last bike-- it has to last for a long time-- I hope!), I have decided to use the
Schaeffers 267 80w90 gear oil and change it at least every 10K. That includes the trans and final drive.
I am basing my decision on what I have read here.
I finally contacted a distributor about 50 miles from me. He informs me that the
Schaeffers 267 80w90 is still available but only in 5 gallon pails at 200 + bucks a pail. However, he says, their new product: Schaeffers 293 75w90, is even better. And, available in Qt's
>> Never fails, whenever I decide to use a product, from Cortech HRX pant/Jacket, to Twinnings Darjeeling Tea, and everything in between-- it's no longer available or out of stock or-- "they" quit carrying it.

Opinions on the new stuff? Any real knowledge of it? Anybody used it yet or seen anything on it? BITOG has no reference (that I can find) on it.

Appreciate the input!!

[bikerfish1100]

I seriously don't think brand has as much to do with suitable usage as getting correct viscosity (75/90 or 80/90 is correct) and rating (you want GL-5). at $40/gallon, that is pricey, but not at all unreasonable (other than the fact that you're buying several years worth at a time). It's a synthetic oil?

[flars]

Why not just use Valvoline or some other easily available product? I have never heard of a transmission or FD failing because of brand of lube used - other than heresay evidence that 'using synthetic caused my friend's/cousins/neighbors/second-ex-wifes xxxx to start leaking, followed by total failure...'

[PGlaves]

I would use Schaeffer's 209 Gear lube - probably a lot less expensive too.

Get the #209 6EP - 90wt.

See: http://www.schaefferoil.com/gear_oils.html

[wozerd]

I would use Schaeffer's 209 Gear lube - probably a lot less expensive too.

Get the #209 6EP - 90wt.

See: http://www.schaefferoil.com/gear_oils.html

But not the 209A with soluble Moly???????????
(the moly is what I'm after-- the more I read-- the more I am drawn to the plating qualities of molybdenum). Simply adding Moly doesn't work per BITOG, it must be able to stay suspended.

As I read it, this is a blend. At the BITOG website, they demonstrate how it (petro based or petro/syn blend) "climbs the gears" (no matter the brand) compared to a synthetic lubricant.

Looking at the link you sent, I am more inclined to go for the 209A.
Your opinion?
(and others)

[PGlaves]

But not the 209A with soluble Moly???????????
(the moly is what I'm after-- the more I read-- the more I am drawn to the plating qualities of molybdenum). Simply adding Moly doesn't work per BITOG, it must be able to stay suspended.

As I read it, this is a blend. At the BITOG website, they demonstrate how it (petro based or petro/syn blend) "climbs the gears" (no matter the brand) compared to a synthetic lubricant.

Looking at the link you sent, I am more inclined to go for the 209A.
Your opinion?
(and others)

I have used a black moly additive in gear oil for about 20 years. The 209 contains moly. I have never used soluable "red" moly as an additive so can't really comment as to whether it is superior to blended powdered moly or not. I am confident the moly in #209 is desirable. I just don't know about whether the other is superior or not.

[Andy VH]

My 94 R1100RS doesn't have the high miles of Voni Glaves at 300K and more. Mine only has 126,000, but I have always used Castrol Synthetic 75w90 GL5 rated lube in my final drive. I have had no problems with the final drive on my bike.

[wozerd]

A sincere thanks to both of you--
advice well taken!

[awagnon]

....and change it at least every 10K....

It costs so little and is so easy, I change mine with every oil change. I like to keep a close eye on it.