K75 Throttle Lock

[Acejones]

Has anyone installed a throttle lock on a K75 ?
any suggestions ?

[dlearl476]

I had one on my RT. The screw type. It was ace. I had it adjusted so the throttle would pretty much operate normally, but it had just enough tension so it would "stay" for about 10 seconds. Once I got used to remember to manually back the throttle off during shifts, it was perfect.

[Acejones]

What I really referring to is something like a Throttlemeister, but hopefully better.

[wozerd]

Has anyone installed a throttle lock on a K75 ?
any suggestions ?

Buy a 1 1/8th to 1 1/4" bicycle tube. Cut a section out about 6 to 8 inches long.
Use spit-- or you might try dish soap as a lubricant, spread the end of the inner tube as far as you can and Begin to pull it over the bar end. This will be extremely hard and involve much huffing, puffing and very sore fingers. If you try pliers, the inner tube will split. Pull it until it is about 1/2 way onto the throttle grip. 1/4 way if you run out of strength. Honest-- it is hard!
Now, roll the inner tube back towards the bar end like a condom. Take the remaining inner tube and cut two rubber band style thin sections (about 1/8 inch wide) from it. Carefully-- very carefully, roll the condom-- er, I mean, the inner tube, further toward the bar end end but don't let it come off!!!!
Place one rubber band about 1/3 od the way from the bar end and the other about 1/4 inch closer to the grip. Roll the inner tube so the "roll" sits between the two rubber bands.
Trim off any excess innertube from the bar end end but still leave about a half inch sticking out from the end of the bar end.
Practice rolling the condom onto the throttle grip with your ring and pinky finger. I have never been able to roll it off without using all my fingers. I usually wait til I'm on the exit ramp., close the throttle and take that moment to roll the condom back to the spot between the two rubber bands.
You can easily increase or decrease your throttle but there is plenty enough tension to hold the throttle wherever you set it.
I cannot stress the importance of practicing with a dead engine the rolling on and rolling off the condom. I do it now (after about 5 years) without thinking about it. If, you get a little freaky, just give up and open/close the throttle manually til you get to a stopping point (That happened to me at first. It induces some excitement til you remember-- you CAN close the throttle!)
The innertubes suffer badly in the summer sun and you may go thru 3-4 of them depending on their exposure to the elements. But, one inner tube is good for at least 10 condoms so--

The cost?
$2.88 at Wal Mart.

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11397&stc=1&d=1199766499

[Bobmws]

There used to be an item called "Flip a Lever". I replaced the tension screw, you would adjust it so when you flipped the lever over center it would lock the throttle. They used to advertise in the ON, not sure if it's still being made. IIRC it was ~ $25.

[wozerd]

I cannot think of anything BETTER than a Throttlemeister. That fact is supported by the number of riders using them. I don't think T-meister has any competition. Short of installing an Audiovox "real" cruise control unit-- designed for a car, modified to your bike (See the FJR forum-- they have a step by step install for-- an FJR-- not a K75) which would require substantial innovation on your part, I don't think there is anything better.
My throttle lock is merely a "poor man's version" of the Throttlemeister.
If your bike doesn't have the threaded hole in the throttle grip housing-- you may find a European part number that has it. If so, Flip a lever
http://www.schneidersinc.com/flip_a_lever.htm

costs about $50.00 and is more convenient than the thumb screw.

I don't know if you could get a machinist to drill and tap the housing-- doubt you could get one to do it unless they have done it before. They are very reluctant to do stuff like that due to the liability. Generally they will simply tell you it can't be done or quote you a "get the F--- outta here" price.

[PGlaves]

The K75 control assembly is pre-threaded for a throttle friction screw - underneath side of the throttle asembly. From the factory a plastic plug is inserted into the threaded hole. The OEM friction screw has/had a nylon atip and a coil sprng to tension the threads so it stays adjusted.

I have used these, Throttlemeister, Bob's Wrist Rest, and other devices. Hands down, no question, the friction screw works the best.

Last I checked - a couple of years ago - you could still get the friction screw from a dealer. I think it was listed as an "Authority" (police bike) part.

It is not a common thread - very fine pitch - so I don't think you can readily find a substitute part to fit those threads.

[PGlaves]

There used to be an item called "Flip a Lever". I replaced the tension screw, you would adjust it so when you flipped the lever over center it would lock the throttle. They used to advertise in the ON, not sure if it's still being made. IIRC it was ~ $25.

Yes - still available - see page 45 of the January ON - or look in most any issue for the ad by Schneider's, Inc. With inflation now $44.95.

[Paul_F]

There used to be an item called "Flip a Lever". I replaced the tension screw, you would adjust it so when you flipped the lever over center it would lock the throttle. They used to advertise in the ON, not sure if it's still being made. IIRC it was ~ $25. I've got one but haven't used it for a couple of years. Two problems with it. One, I couldn't access it with my left hand when riding with a tank bag. Secondly, sometimes I found it difficult to unlock. If you want it, it's yours for $20 plus shipping. However, I don't really recommend it.

[BuddingGeezer]

There used to be an item called "Flip a Lever". I replaced the tension screw, you would adjust it so when you flipped the lever over center it would lock the throttle. They used to advertise in the ON, not sure if it's still being made. IIRC it was ~ $25.

Flip-a-lever. Still being made. $39.95 I think. Great. Google it.

Ralph Sims

[BuddingGeezer]

I cannot think of anything BETTER than a Throttlemeister. That fact is supported by the number of riders using them. I don't think T-meister has any competition. Short of installing an Audiovox "real" cruise control unit-- designed for a car, modified to your bike (See the FJR forum-- they have a step by step install for-- an FJR-- not a K75) which would require substantial innovation on your part, I don't think there is anything better.
My throttle lock is merely a "poor man's version" of the Throttlemeister.
If your bike doesn't have the threaded hole in the throttle grip housing-- you may find a European part number that has it. If so, Flip a lever
http://www.schneidersinc.com/flip_a_lever.htm

costs about $50.00 and is more convenient than the thumb screw.

I don't know if you could get a machinist to drill and tap the housing-- doubt you could get one to do it unless they have done it before. They are very reluctant to do stuff like that due to the liability. Generally they will simply tell you it can't be done or quote you a "get the F--- outta here" price.

There is a photo detailed install of Audiovox cruise on a K1100LT on the internet. Should be similar to the K75. May be on the K1100 website.

Ralph Sims

[scootrp125x]

The K75 control assembly is pre-threaded for a throttle friction screw - underneath side of the throttle asembly. From the factory a plastic plug is inserted into the threaded hole. The OEM friction screw has/had a nylon atip and a coil sprng to tension the threads so it stays adjusted.

I have used these, Throttlemeister, Bob's Wrist Rest, and other devices. Hands down, no question, the friction screw works the best.
Last I checked - a couple of years ago - you could still get the friction screw from a dealer. I think it was listed as an "Authority" (police bike) part.

It is not a common thread - very fine pitch - so I don't think you can readily find a substitute part to fit those threads.


The friction screw works for me. Just a few bucks and no parts to break. I had it on my K100RT and made sure I got another one when I bought my K75RT.

Mark

[bikerfish1100]

+1 on the factory friction screw, unless you need bling factor. T-meister is hi on bling factor (works pretty good, too)

[cayuse60]

The head light bulbs for cars have an orange O-ring to seal out moisture. I save the o-rings from old bulbs and have used them as a simple friction enhancement between the throttle grip and housing. Just enough friction to allow left handed only steering for short periods and light right hand hold of the throttle.:p

[osbornk]

Yes - still available - see page 45 of the January ON - or look in most any issue for the ad by Schneider's, Inc. With inflation now $44.95.

I've had one for years that I've had on two or three bikes. I find it to be pretty useless. I use Crampbuster (or another name but the same thing). It costs $10.95 and it has worked well for me for years. http://www.crampbuster.com/

[Acejones]

Thanks for all the responses. Individual taste is a funny thing. I really don't like the Crampbuster type things; others find them useful. a guy up in canada was making some devices for R bikes. It uses a bail like device that you flip over much like a spinning reel. I have one on my R1150R, but don't think it'll work on the K75.
Thanks again for all the ideas.:type

[nrpetersen]

You won't beat the cost & ease of use of this one from Office Depot. If you think you can handle a dead man's throttle, a 1/2 inch by 3 inch rubber band will almost balance the throttle spring of my R1100RT, with maybe a slight balance towards slow closure. I never even think of it & my wrist doesn't get sore anymore.

Bring spare rubber bands as they last only about a week. The short stick will last forever.........

[98lee]

The K75 control assembly is pre-threaded for a throttle friction screw - underneath side of the throttle asembly. From the factory a plastic plug is inserted into the threaded hole. The OEM friction screw has/had a nylon atip and a coil sprng to tension the threads so it stays adjusted.

I have used these, Throttlemeister, Bob's Wrist Rest, and other devices.

Hands down, no question, the friction screw works the best.


A BIG +1:thumb

Properly adjusted, you can take your hand of at any time and the throttle stays put, yet during normal riding , you don't even feel any drag.

The only downside is, during a get off the throttle stays open if you haven't had time to close it (just like any other throttle lock).

32721454414 BOLT S Retail Price:$9.00
Our Price:$7.20

At: http://chicagobmwmotorcycle.com/store/


$9.00 list at any other BMW dealer.


:dance :dance :dance

[Acejones]

I think I'll probably order the BMW screw, but, that rubberband looks real cheap !

[Kayseventyfive]

that rubberband looks real cheap !

Some BMW dealers have genuine BMW black rubber bands. Made in the Black Forest, no doubt. Way overpriced, though.

Maybe some 1/8 round bungee cord would last longer and look a little more Bayerisch. A little hook on the underside of the grip held on with black Shoe Goo would anchor it.

[BuddingGeezer]

If you do a Google search on "throttle locks" you will find were some use an o-ring from a caterpillar tractor to apply pressure to the throttle grip. This works best with bar end weights. You can roll the o-ring away from the throttle when you don't want it. Probably a good parts store would have an o-ring that fits the grip.

In a previous post, I have the Schnider Flip-a-lever. One guy didn't like it, I like mine and can't imagine anything better, short of real cruise control.

I can see how a high tank bag could prevent one from using their left hand to engage, but I can engage mine with my fight index finger, I always disengage with my right index finger.

I have a cramp buster I use occasionally. Before I got the Flip-a-lever I would let it rest on the bar end weight for throttle friction.

The great thing about the flip-a-lever over the factory throttle friction screw and above friction devices is the ability to disengage when traffic or conditions require.

But, what works or is comfortable for one doesn't work for others.

Ralph Sims

[98lee]

The great thing about the flip-a-lever over the factory throttle friction screw and above friction devices is the ability to disengage when traffic or conditions require.

But, what works or is comfortable for one doesn't work for others.

Ralph Sims


Ralph:

Maybe I don't quite understand. Why would you want to disengage the factory friction screw?:dunno

I ride canyons, freeways, and stop and go city traffic. The last time I touched the ffriction screw was about 5,000 miles ago to add about a half a turn more pressure.

I have it set so that when I let go, the bike maintains its speed. When I want to slow, I twist the throttle. I don't just let go of the throttle to slow down. There is very little to no noticable drag. It is not a throttle "lock".

Is there an advantage to disengaging?

It seems like more of a disadvantage to always having to reengage before you; shake out your carpal tunnel, wave at the car that just gave you room to pass, point to the scenic vistas or next off ramp, scratch your whatever, grab the mouthpiece for your camelback etc.

That just seems like a lot of fiddling around that's not neccessary and could be distracting more than all that other stuff I just mentioned.:scratch


Just asking. Like you said "what works or is comfortable for one...."
But I have never read or had a discussion about the advantages of disengaging or not.

That's why I'm here on this forum to learn how and why.


:dance :dance :dance

[bikerfish1100]

if a throttle lock stays on in situations that you might not want it to be saying "go throttle go", you might want an easy disengagement procedure. in heavy traffic, in stop-and-go traffic, in and situation when throttle position is being constatnly adjusted (canyons, residential, sketchy traction surfaces, etc)- all would be times when you'd want to back off on a throttle lock.
do you have cruise control on your 4-wheeler? are there times you will not use it? those are the same times you'd probably want to disengage your throttle lock.
some "split the difference", and set the throttle lock at a point that gives a slight roll off of the throttle when throttle is released.
ymmv.

[98lee]

if a throttle lock stays on in situations that you might not want it to be saying "go throttle go", you might want an easy disengagement procedure. in heavy traffic, in stop-and-go traffic, in and situation when throttle position is being constatnly adjusted (canyons, residential, sketchy traction surfaces, etc)- all would be times when you'd want to back off on a throttle lock.
do you have cruise control on your 4-wheeler? are there times you will not use it? those are the same times you'd probably want to disengage your throttle lock.
some "split the difference", and set the throttle lock at a point that gives a slight roll off of the throttle when throttle is released.
ymmv.


But the friction screw is not a "LOCK". It allows for normal on and off and modulating the throttle just as you would do if you did not have one. It only has enough friction to overcome the return spring not enough to interfere with normal acceleration or deceleration.

There is no noticable difference in the effort required to open the throttle on my bike that has the friction screw and my wife's bike that does not have one and the effort required to close the throttle is about 1/3 the force to open it. I can close the throttle with the open palm of my hand.

The only difference is when you let go. I have never just let go to slow down no matter what I was riding. It is always a contious twisting the throttle closed or backing off.

Cruise control is a very different animal, as you have to disengage it to slow down or push the coast button to gradually slow down. You are not in control of the throttle with cruise control.

With the friction screw, if your hand is on the throttle, you have 100% control of it. If you let go it maintains.

Again, I am not arguing. I am just wondering why use a "lock" or anything else when the $9 friction screw works so well. And if anyone has a reason why not to use the friction screw. All opinions or experiences welcome.


:dance :dance :dance

[Kayseventyfive]

The great thing about the flip-a-lever over the factory throttle friction screw and above friction devices is the ability to disengage when traffic or conditions require.



I wonder if a large diameter knob on the friction screw with notched or high-traction rubber on the edge would allow the right thumb to quickly release tension. Or even a little (indexable) flip lever on the screw.

[bikerfish1100]

fwiw- my personal preference is for the factory friction screw. used in on my '78RS, and on my '86 & 87 K75s. wish it was an option for my R11S, so i didn't have to go for the pricey (but oh-so-gorgeous) T-meister.

[BuddingGeezer]

Ralph:

Maybe I don't quite understand. Why would you want to disengage the factory friction screw?:dunno

I ride canyons, freeways, and stop and go city traffic. The last time I touched the ffriction screw was about 5,000 miles ago to add about a half a turn more pressure.

I have it set so that when I let go, the bike maintains its speed. When I want to slow, I twist the throttle. I don't just let go of the throttle to slow down. There is very little to no noticable drag. It is not a throttle "lock".

Is there an advantage to disengaging?

It seems like more of a disadvantage to always having to reengage before you; shake out your carpal tunnel, wave at the car that just gave you room to pass, point to the scenic vistas or next off ramp, scratch your whatever, grab the mouthpiece for your camelback etc.

That just seems like a lot of fiddling around that's not neccessary and could be distracting more than all that other stuff I just mentioned.:scratch


Just asking. Like you said "what works or is comfortable for one...."
But I have never read or had a discussion about the advantages of disengaging or not.

That's why I'm here on this forum to learn how and why.


:dance :dance :dance

Just personal preference. I don't like a heavy throttle. With the friction screw the friction to hold steady is more than I like. The flip-a-lever can be adjusted as tight as you want. If I want the throttle to hold I engage the flip-a-lever, if I want the loose throttle, I flip the lever. I don't have to fiddle or think about it., When riding I reach for everything with my left hand.

As I said, what works for me may not work for you.

I think exchange of information is great. My ideas is not all ways the best. Sometimes it is for me, sometimes someone else's.

I'm not offended if some one doesn't like my ideas.

If every body was the same it wouold be a dull world.

Ralph Sims

[98lee]

As I said, what works for me may not work for you.

I think exchange of information is great. My ideas is not all ways the best. Sometimes it is for me, sometimes someone else's.

I'm not offended if some one doesn't like my ideas.

If every body was the same it wouold be a dull world.

Ralph Sims



Ralph:

I couldn't have said it better myself. I totally agree.:buds


:dance :dance :dance

[wndsrfr]

I was taught (and learned by experience) to never rely on the throttle return spring to close the throttle on a motorcycle. Old Spanish dirt bike experience, British street bike experience, etc showed that the throttle return spring is likely to fail. Thus, I always roll the throttle closed by reflex and I'll bet that you do also, every time you shift and whenever you wish to slow down it's always with the right hand doing the throttle movement.

So, imagine my delight to find a '92K75RT already equipped with that wonderful little friction screw after cussing the right hand cramping that I got trying to modulate my R1100R with the world's slipperiest return force on the throttle. Instantly I set the friction to hold the throttle where it stays on and am smiling all the way into the sunset, cruising with one left finger on the bar and right hand scratching what itches when the need arises--couldn't be happier!

Now, I realize that in a "get-off" which occurs so fast that I can't roll the throttle closed, it's possible that the engine will test the rev limiter for a few seconds.....so what? Most likely the least of my worries in such a situation.

The stated concerns about dis-engaging a throttle "lock" makes me wary of any product that would require dis-engagement prior to being able to roll off the throttle--not for me--I'll stick with the little ol' nylon tipped screw and would certainly recommend it to anyone else.

Scratchin' into the Sunset,
John

[osbornk]

The stated concerns about dis-engaging a throttle "lock" makes me wary of any product that would require dis-engagement prior to being able to roll off the throttle--not for me--I'll stick with the little ol' nylon tipped screw and would certainly recommend it to anyone else.

I've had both and you can adjust the flip thing to work like the screw but with the option of disengaging it. Where I ride, with the mountains, they are both pretty useless. My latest toy has electronic cruise. It is wonderful for Carpal tunnel.

[JimK11]

I admit to not trying any o-ring or rubber band devices. I had a Flip-a-lever on the '95 K11, and was going to install it on the '97 (which came with a Throttlemeister), but installed an Audiovox (made by Rostra) cruise control instead.

The Flip-a-lever was very easy to use - could flip it on and off with my thumb. The Throttlemeister is a pain - I have to use my left hand to set it. The electronic cruise control rocks! I have the older vacuum operated unit, but plan to replace it with the newer solid state unit. The throttle lock was OK, but for long distance riding, cruise control is the best. There is an install write up at K11OG.org: http://www.k11og.org/forum/index.php that will work for K75, K100, and K1100 bikes - might work for other bikes, also.

Sadly, Shcneider's is out of business: http://k11og.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6067

Jim
K1100LTSEA

[ljjohns]

I probably didn't use the search function correctly, so I didn't find this thread before I posted a query earlier today in this area of the forum. Then I did a Google and found it.

I tried some of the links in the various entries--didn't work. So can some helpful person help me find current information? I don't have access to Paul Glave's ON article--I wasn't a member then and probably couldn't find the issue if I had it. I'm looking for something simple just to give me a few moments of wrist relief. I've been spoiled by the cruise control on my K12LT

Thanks to all.

[Acejones]

Since I posted the original question, I have had a lot more experience on th K75. I am now an enthusiast of the throttle screw.

[98lee]

Friction Screw:


BMW part# 32721454414 Locking Bolt $10.09



Try it. You'll like it.



:dance:dance:dance

[bikerfish1100]

Lee- not that i need one, but where in the fiche did you find that?

[98lee]

While it shows the part in all the diagrams: #26 in STEERING, Handle unit Right, only in K100 does it actually show the part# (but it is the same part).



:dance:dance:dance

[BCKRIDER]

First, I agree with Paul Glaves that the screw on the K75's is great. When I bought my '86 K75 in 2000 I adjusted it so it barely held the throttle open then never touched it. That bike was totalled in Wyoming just over a year ago.

Last fall I bought a 1992 K100RS and couldn't find a similar screw or even a place where one could go. I was also told by the local BMW dealer that those screws are no longer available. If any of you know that for this year and model there IS a hole that is artfully concealed and all I have to do is find somebody with a wrecked bike who would part with that screw - I would be very grateful.

I bought a NEP "flip a lever" on spec. A friend had one on his R1100GS and loved it. This $20 device is as adjustable for tension as the K75 screw but can be set or turned off with the flick of your right thumb. Unfortunately, I don't think they make a model which works with my bike - and I spent a couple hours trying to modify it to no avail.

Any cruise device which requires me to reach across with my left hand to set speed sucks. (Is this true of Thottlemeister and other well known brands named in previous submissions?) I'm also interested whether these devices dis-engage when you either roll on or off the throttle.

So, reasoning that an appropriate amount of friction is why I liked the screw on my K75, I started experimenting with ways of getting that on the inner end of the hand grip. What I ended up with is a piece of plastic cut from the top of a wine juice bucket, a couple drilled holes in the plastic, and then some copper wiring to hold the sucker in place. When I couldn't cancell my turn signals there was more grinding off of plastic.

I hope you are laughing. Fortunately for you, I don't have the expertise to upload a picture of my contraption to this website. You might then fall on the floor laughing, and at your age, this is dangerous.

Strangely, it works about as well as the K75 screw. But I am open to better suggestions. For many of us, not being able to take your hand off the throttle in non-problematic conditions is no laughing matter.

[bikerfish1100]

Throttlemeister can be fully controlled iwth the right hand. Does not automatically adjust its tension on roll-on/roll-off, but the position (at end of bar) is so easy to reach that some light turning pressure from the pinky can get it to turn down and go to "off" (or "on" for that matter)/
the OEM screw is easier to "set & forget" to just enough pressure to provide some drag against the throttle.