View Full Version : cleaning engine case
malarz
01-06-2008, 08:24 PM
75/5. I'm getting top end work done and the heads will be bead blasted. How can i clean the rest of the engine case to match the blasted surface--without blasting?
And, since I'm going into this project should i just have the frame done, too? Where do I stop?
thanks for any help.
ken:scratch
lostboy
01-06-2008, 09:54 PM
Once you have the cylinders back on so no cleaning agents can get into the crankcase, wet the case with S100 and let it soak briefly. Then use a stiff bristled parts cleaning brush (available at most auto parts stores) with a stabbing motion to work in a paste of abrasive bathroom cleanser and water. Do this until you're sick of it. Rinse very well with water. If you're not satisfied with the results, let it dry and start over. You can make an old case look very nice in this manner.
Repainting a frame is a big project; there are a lot of pieces and everything has to go back exactly as it came off. If you repaint the frame, you'll then realise you want to replace all the hardware. And so on...
flash412
01-06-2008, 11:10 PM
Remove the cylinder studs and run it through the dishwasher (when the wife ain't home). Maybe a couple of times, if necessary.
dlearl476
01-06-2008, 11:17 PM
Repainting a frame is a big project; there are a lot of pieces and everything has to go back exactly as it came off. If you repaint the frame, you'll then realise you want to replace all the hardware. And so on...
dude, a /5 is about 1/10th as complicated as a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle. A modicum of mechanical skills, a decent set of tools and a nice workspace and anyone should be able to completely disassemble one in a day, and re-assemble it, with due care as you suggest, in two or three, no problem.
I suggest: pics, drawings, and a factory workshop or parts manual (available at a few URLs) and perhaps a digital voice recorder.
lostboy
01-07-2008, 07:39 AM
I never could get one of those jigsaw puzzles together. Is it cheating to use a hammer?
mrich12000
01-07-2008, 09:33 AM
Remove the cylinder studs and run it through the dishwasher (when the wife ain't home). Maybe a couple of times, if necessary.
:rofl :ha :ha :jawdrop :stick :fight :banghead :scratch
She's going to kill ya :bolt
PGlaves
01-07-2008, 10:20 AM
Most of the petroleum stains can be worked out of the pores with carburetor cleaner - spray Gumout is my favorite - and a brush. Once clean a light spritzing of WD40 helps keep it that way. Wipe off the drips. Do not use "cast wheel" wheel cleaner anywhere around paint. "Safe for all wheels" or painted wheel cleaner sorta works but carb cleaner works better.
gnavecky
01-07-2008, 11:24 AM
Has any one tried one of these steam cleaners? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=8823
kbasa
01-07-2008, 12:08 PM
I'm using a brass brush and some WD-40 and having some success on my R100.
JohnP
01-26-2008, 11:50 AM
The folks who make naval jelly (rust remover) also make aluminum jelly (tho harder to find). Brush on a dry case and let sit. it does a nice job of surface etching aluminum and works better than any cleaner I have tried on old stained cases. Good luck.
shire2000
01-26-2008, 01:11 PM
An excellent product to clean and polish the engine casings is called Autosol. I use it with Scotch-Brite pads. I buy the pads in bulk, just make sure they are not the ones with soap in them. Squirt some of the Autosol on the pad and rub like heck. Change pads when they get black and worn. Autosol cleans all the corrosion off of aluminum, chrome, etc. Leaves a nice finish with a slight patina that I think looks good on an older airhead. You can get rid of the patina if you want by rubbing with another pad and WD-40.
If you want your aluminum to polish up like chrome, just keep going over it with the Autosol and new pads. Eventually it will be like a mirror.
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