/6 suspention upgrades.

[yaktackler]

I'm thinking about changing the front suspension on my 76 r90/6. i've thought about putting on a set of forks from a /s but also about trying to fit something from a later model with more modern braking components. what modifications are needed adapt a newer R bike suspension or even a older k bike set up?

[pdxairhed]

I assume when you say, "modern braking components," you mean adding a second disc and caliper ala the R90S. If I am correct check the R90/6 on-line parts catalog at Max BMW. There is a front brake retrofit page in the fiche that lists the parts required. The kit is no longer available, but all the individual piece parts are. Total list price is about $1,850. You can order the same parts from Chicago BMW for about $350 less. Check snowbum's page, http://home.jps.net/~snowbum/brakes.htm, if you want to go further, i.e., mounting the fluid reservoir on the handle bar. There are also a few aftermarket companies that sell cast iron brake discs for about the same price as the replacement OEM disc.

pdxairhed

[Polarbear]

R100/7 here and think small to get started and you may be surprised at the results. I'll explain:). I did the stainless braided line addition to my single disk up front for "noticably better" brake power in the front. A very well serviced/cleaned rear drum brake is very very good too and you may be shocked at how good, especially if you've been riding with a dirty rear drum area. Dirty, I mean some debris from lubing the splines and/or slight oil mist coming from the rear end. The rear brake area is a dirty enviroment and subject to grease, dust etcetc..A difference in night/day can be found by servicing the rear brake especially. Use a good electric motor cleaner on the pads or brake cleaner, scuff them up with some gritty sandpaper and thats it:). It will lock the rear wheel, when done right:).
Suspension? I use progressive springs for a much stiffer front end and Koni rear shocks, which are under another name now. Many shocks are available for the rear and they are advertised in the MOA Magazine. These old bikes have a lot to offer and can bring many smiles to those riding them, with the right components added:). Randy13233:usa

[lostboy]

The "S" fork is identical to the /6 with the exception of a second disc. R100S have two less compression holes in their damper rods, which I think makes for excesssive compression damping. I like to weld shut one hole in the /6 damper and use either BMW heavy-duty or Progressive fork springs. A properly fitted tube style fork brace makes a huge difference in steering, and a billet triple clamp will keep the fork aligned so it will continue to work properly.

[ccolwell]

I would consider looking for an early 80's double disk front end. I think the calipers on this are superior to the ATE's. I would also put on the handlebar mounted master cylinder (hiding it under the tank a la /6 is just a bad idea). Progressive springs, a fork brace (I prefer the Telefix as easier to mount and deal with if you need to pull the forks), 10w fork oil and, if you want to go the whole nine yards, a billet triple clamp. The last is overkill, but I had all the above on my '84 R100 and loved it.

[lostboy]

A handlebar master cylinder is a giant leap in brakng; you may not even want a second disc if you chose to do this. Stainless braided brake hoses wll help either way.

While Brembo brakes found on '81 on forks are more powerful, they won't work with your stock wire wheel. The calipers hit the spokes. If you're using Lester wheels or BMW cast wheels, you can use Brembos.