Oil Burn Rate on R1200RT

[JREDFORD131730]

Yesterday I went out to check the oil level in my bike (2005 R1200RT with 43k mles). I use Mobil 1 15w50 and was surprised to see that I needed to add 20 oz of oil to get to the center of the glass. I last topped off 3500 miles ago.

Should I be concerned? What is normal under mostly highway conditions?:scratch

[DarrylRi]

On my oilhead bikes ('94 R1100RS, '02 R1150RS), I always expected them to burn about a quart in 4-6k miles. Looks like you're about at that level. (You should probably watch that sight glass a little more carefully!) It did take a while in both cases for the oil consumption to go down to this level; they both drank more oil up to about the 15k mile mark.

However, my 2007 R1200ST has been really great in this respect, from the get-go. In the first 6k miles, it only needed a quarter quart of oil (eg, 8 ozs.) I've never had an aircooled motor that sipped oil so frugally!

I still check the sight glass every time I fill up, if something changed drastically, it would be important to catch it right away.

[TomfromMD]

I gather that hexhead oil consumption varies quite a bit. FWIW, my 06RT (18k miles) burns about 1/2~3/4 quart between the 6,000 mile changes. I've also noticed that consumption increases with 4,000+ rpm cruising and decreases with more sedate, backroad touring.

Do you have the OBC with oil level warning? If so, once BMW replaces the float and updates the software, it will reliably warn you when the level drops below 1/4 on the sight glass.

Tom

[lawman]

I hate to look for problems but I am somewhat perplexed about a "non-problem" on my R-12; In earlier models, I used about a quart every 4K or so until about 18K miles; on my R-12, I have had no oil usage after 5K..a problem?

[deilenberger]

I hate to look for problems but I am somewhat perplexed about a "non-problem" on my R-12; In earlier models, I used about a quart every 4K or so until about 18K miles; on my R-12, I have had no oil usage after 5K..a problem?Not a problem - just a sign you broke it in correctly. My R1200R uses no oil between 6K changes.. level stays right in the center of the window... it stopped using oil at about 3,500 miles. And I switched to synthetic (BMW 15W-50) at my 6,000 mile service.

[JREDFORD131730]

I gather that hexhead oil consumption varies quite a bit. FWIW, my 06RT (18k miles) burns about 1/2~3/4 quart between the 6,000 mile changes. I've also noticed that consumption increases with 4,000+ rpm cruising and decreases with more sedate, backroad touring.

Do you have the OBC with oil level warning? If so, once BMW replaces the float and updates the software, it will reliably warn you when the level drops below 1/4 on the sight glass.

Tom

Thanks...No OBC, just a very hard to read sight glass.

[Greenwald]

Not a problem - just a sign you broke it in correctly. My R1200R uses no oil between 6K changes.. level stays right in the center of the window... it stopped using oil at about 3,500 miles. And I switched to synthetic (BMW 15W-50) at my 6,000 mile service.

Ditto. Used some within the first 6,000 miles ('05 R1200RT), but since switching to Amsoil Synthetic at the 12,000 checkup, not a drop used between 6,000 mile oil changes.

[wanderer]

Amsoil since about 20K. Does not use a drop, none, nada, zip. Sometimes I even go 7K or 8K on an oil change if on a trip. NEVER uses any oil. 83K on the clock. I'm a happy camper.:brad

[wozerd]

This 6000 mile interval oil change thing is creepin' me out. I am getting ready for my second BMW. The first one, bought one year ago, was an 84 R100RT and started my love affair. I covered almost 10K in one year on it-- more than I have ever ridden in a year in my life! I could never get myself to go more than 2000 miles between oil changes. In the past, I have owned quite a few bikes--mainly Japanese sport bikes-- and never went beyond 2000 and frequently did it every 1000 miles. My old, air cooled Guzzi 850 LeMans and Norton P11A got it every 750-1000 miles
Just FWIW.

I still can't see me ever going more than 3000 miles on my next BMW (hopefully a certain black R1150RT). At 60, I have been told that-- yes, I am now old enough to own a BMW:blush

Question--

I have been using Mobil 1 in all my bikes for th last 2-3 years based on it's overall ranking in the tests I have read and due to it's lower price and greater availability.
I have been using the MXT4 in my water cooled sport bikes and the 20-50 V Twin oil in my R100RT.
Seeing as how, other than the lack of liquid cooling, there are no trans gears or clutch to worry about (as far as shared lubrication duties), why not just use the 15-50 Mobil 1 car oil?
Any reason not to? Irreguardless of oil brand. Does anyone here use the Mobil 1? Car or motorcycle oil -- why?

Thanks

[deilenberger]

This 6000 mile interval oil change thing is creepin' me out. I am getting ready for my second BMW. The first one, bought one year ago, was an 84 R100RT and started my love affair. I covered almost 10K in one year on it-- more than I have ever ridden in a year in my life! I could never get myself to go more than 2000 miles between oil changes. In the past, I have owned quite a few bikes--mainly Japanese sport bikes-- and never went beyond 2000 and frequently did it every 1000 miles. My old, air cooled Guzzi 850 LeMans and Norton P11A got it every 750-1000 miles
Just FWIW.

I still can't see me ever going more than 3000 miles on my next BMW (hopefully a certain black R1150RT). At 60, I have been told that-- yes, I am now old enough to own a BMW:blush

If you're doing 1,000 miles a year - that's a good change interval.. but for a modern bike with modern oil - 6,000 is much more reasonable. If you're in doubt - I'd suggest taking a sample of the oil when you're ready to change it and having it analyzed. Blackstone Labs does a good job - and will likely tell you the oil would be fine for another #,### miles use.


Question--

I have been using Mobil 1 in all my bikes for th last 2-3 years based on it's overall ranking in the tests I have read and due to it's lower price and greater availability.
I have been using the MXT4 in my water cooled sport bikes and the 20-50 V Twin oil in my R100RT.
Seeing as how, other than the lack of liquid cooling, there are no trans gears or clutch to worry about (as far as shared lubrication duties), why not just use the 15-50 Mobil 1 car oil?
Any reason not to? Irreguardless of oil brand. Does anyone here use the Mobil 1? Car or motorcycle oil -- why?

Thanks
Most people who use Mobil-1 use the auto rated 15W-50 in their BMW's - with a dry clutch it's a good match, and unless you live on the equater, a 20W-50 has too high a cold viscosity number.

BTW - an R1150.. of any type is an "oilhead" - and you might ask the same question in that forum, but bet you get the same answer.. :D

[wozerd]

If you're doing 1,000 miles a year - that's a good change interval.. but for a modern bike with modern oil - 6,000 is much more reasonable. If you're in doubt - I'd suggest taking a sample of the oil when you're ready to change it and having it analyzed. Blackstone Labs does a good job - and will likely tell you the oil would be fine for another #,### miles use.
Most people who use Mobil-1 use the auto rated 15W-50 in their BMW's - with a dry clutch it's a good match, and unless you live on the equater, a 20W-50 has too high a cold viscosity number.

BTW - an R1150.. of any type is an "oilhead" - and you might ask the same question in that forum, but bet you get the same answer.. :D


Don,
Thanks-- I'm a newbie and doing my best to catch on. So, I'm going from an "Airhead" to an "Oil Head"? Beats "knuckle head" and "shovel head" though--eh?
With any luck, I might live long enough to become a "Hex Head".


(BTW that was 10,000 miles a year)

[gulfcoastbeemer]

My wife has an '05 R1200RT, and I have an '07 R1200RT. Both have about 19,000 miles. Her '05 was purchased used with 4,300 miles on the clock and an unknown run-in history. Mine was purchased new and run-in by the book.

I change the oil and filter on each bike at 3,000 miles, using a synthetic oil blend, Castrol ACT-EVO V-Twin 20W50 API SG, JAMO MA.

My bike uses less than 100ml each 3,000 miles; hers uses less than 200 ml each 3,000 miles.

[GregoryT]

If you're doing 1,000 miles a year - that's a good change interval.. but for a modern bike with modern oil - 6,000 is much more reasonable. If you're in doubt - I'd suggest taking a sample of the oil when you're ready to change it and having it analyzed. Blackstone Labs does a good job - and will likely tell you the oil would be fine for another #,### miles use.
Most people who use Mobil-1 use the auto rated 15W-50 in their BMW's - with a dry clutch it's a good match, and unless you live on the equater, a 20W-50 has too high a cold viscosity number.

BTW - an R1150.. of any type is an "oilhead" - and you might ask the same question in that forum, but bet you get the same answer.. :D

I am really suprised to see how many people out there choose to change their engine oil at such a low frequency. In an air-cooled engine (any kind) engine oil plays extremely important role. Not only lubriactes, but even more importantly removes heat from critical engine parts. After 3k miles engine oil loses more than 40% of it's original capabilites. That's why when it's used beyond that point it starts to burn more and more (read MCN studies on that subject done years ago). Some people are bothered at sending oil samples to be tested. Instead of changing oil itself - the cost is almost the same.
Through, some manufactures recomend oil intervals at 6 and beyond 6k miles. The only problem is...
That creates heavy sludge deposits and in addequite lubricating and cooling capabilites.
For decades, I see this almost on a daily basis. It happens to be that I'm a professional mechanic.
On my own vehicles including motorcycles, I use quality oil filters and recomended by manufacture oil brand and viscosity and I change it every 3k miles.
The results - the performance, and internal engine parts appearance like brand new condition, even on very high mileage engines.

[deilenberger]

I am really suprised to see how many people out there choose to change their engine oil at such a low frequency. In an air-cooled engine (any kind) engine oil plays extremely important role. Not only lubriactes, but even more importantly removes heat from critical engine parts. After 3k miles engine oil loses more than 40% of it's original capabilites. That's why when it's used beyond that point it starts to burn more and more (read MCN studies on that subject done years ago). Some people are bothered at sending oil samples to be tested. Instead of changing oil itself - the cost is almost the same.
Through, some manufactures recomend oil intervals at 6 and beyond 6k miles. The only problem is...
That creates heavy sludge deposits and in addequite lubricating and cooling capabilites.
For decades, I see this almost on a daily basis. It happens to be that I'm a professional mechanic.
On my own vehicles including motorcycles, I use quality oil filters and recomended by manufacture oil brand and viscosity and I change it every 3k miles.
The results - the performance, and internal engine parts appearance like brand new condition, even on very high mileage engines.GT - I'll have to differ with your opinions.

The oil testing done by Blackstone Labs includes measuring all the additives levels, the viscosity, the burn point and the suspended solids in the oil being tested. It is an excellent determination of how much life is left in the oil. Once you do it a few times - you'll have a good guideline to how your oil is working with your engine. It's certainly not cost effective to send the oil out for testing BEFORE changing it every time, and that's not what I'm advocating (although large engine users - buses, large stationary engines - do exactly that.. if you're changing 30 gallons of oil - it becomes cost effective.)

I've had it done several times.. not yet on the R1200R - but I expect results similar to what I've seen before - at 6,000 miles - I expect the oil to be in excellent condition. I do change it then - but I'm not worried about risking the engine due to worn out oil. And I'd expect even better from a quality synthetic. What you saw decades ago really isn't the same as what modern oils can do.. things do change sometimes for the better..

YMMV - and I'm sure it will. I'm not a professional mechanic - I'm just a home wrench who does all his own work, and have been inside my car and bike engines enough to see with my own beady little eyes how the oil is protecting the engine. I think BMW's recommendation of 6,000 mile changes is fine - if anything somewhat conservative. When is the last time you heard of an oil caused engine failure? It just doesn't happen..

[Professor]

A very newbee question: Do you add oil when the sight glass is down 1/4? 1/2? near the bottom?

[kbasa]

A very newbee question: Do you add oil when the sight glass is down 1/4? 1/2? near the bottom?


Keep it on the dot. More than that and it just blows it out, less than that and you're under.

[Professor]

Thank you, Sir. I appreciate it.

[GregoryT]

GT - I'll have to differ with your opinions.

The oil testing done by Blackstone Labs includes measuring all the additives levels, the viscosity, the burn point and the suspended solids in the oil being tested. It is an excellent determination of how much life is left in the oil. Once you do it a few times - you'll have a good guideline to how your oil is working with your engine. It's certainly not cost effective to send the oil out for testing BEFORE changing it every time, and that's not what I'm advocating (although large engine users - buses, large stationary engines - do exactly that.. if you're changing 30 gallons of oil - it becomes cost effective.)

I've had it done several times.. not yet on the R1200R - but I expect results similar to what I've seen before - at 6,000 miles - I expect the oil to be in excellent condition. I do change it then - but I'm not worried about risking the engine due to worn out oil. And I'd expect even better from a quality synthetic. What you saw decades ago really isn't the same as what modern oils can do.. things do change sometimes for the better..

YMMV - and I'm sure it will. I'm not a professional mechanic - I'm just a home wrench who does all his own work, and have been inside my car and bike engines enough to see with my own beady little eyes how the oil is protecting the engine. I think BMW's recommendation of 6,000 mile changes is fine - if anything somewhat conservative. When is the last time you heard of an oil caused engine failure? It just doesn't happen..

Hello, Deilenberger.
I realize how dificult it is to convice anyone about something as delicate as oil change (it seems like everyone has their own opinion on the subject, and that's not a bad thing - that's why I won't even try) Instead, I want to just shed some light on that.
Lab tests performed in United States are pretty much the same, it doesn't matter where they are done - quite standard. What's different is why they are done. The company that I work for sends oil samples to be tested every other oil change (12k) as a preventive maintenance practice to determine wear on the engine parts, not the condition of oil itself. The test anylizes values in PPM by weight. Those metals indicate wear on particular components of an individual unit. The particles of these metals will indicate a wear problem on the microscopic level before the problem can be detected by conventional means. The existence of the wear problem is not only be absolute values of metals, but more importantly the relative increase or trend in one or more of these metals.
Here are some examples:
Iron...............Cylinders, Gears, Rings, Crankshaft, Liners, Bearings, Housings, Rust.
Chromium......Rings, Roller/Taper Bearings, Rods, Platings.
Lead..............Bearing overlays, additive in gear oil and gasoline.
Copper..........Bushings, Bearings, Thrust-Washers, Friction PLates, oil Cooler, additive in oil.
Tin.................Bearings, Bushings, Piston's Platings.
Aluminum......Pistons, Bearings, Pumps, Blowers, Rotars, Thrust-Washers.
Nickel............Valves.
etc................ You get the picture.

Another test determines contaminants.
Those elements can be an indicator of both internal and external contamination. The source and ammount of contamination can be determined by comparison to a previously normal sample or to a new oil referance.
Few examples:
Silicon...........Element used to determine the level of airborne dirt and abrasives in the oil (sometimes used as an anti-foam agent).
Boron...........Present in most permanent aanti-freeze systems and cooling system inhibitors (sometimes used as an additive).
Sodium.........Present in most permanent anti-freeze systems and cooling system inhibitor (sometimes used as an additive).
Potassium.... Present in most perman ent anti-freeze systems and cooling system inhibitors (sometimes used as an additive in gear oil).

The third group determines additives.
Those elements are blended into the oil in different forms and quantities by the manufacturer. The additive package in oil will vary depending on type of oil.
Additive functions:
Magnesium..Dispersent/Detergent additive.
Calcium........Dispersent/Detergent additive.
Barium.........Dispersent/Detergant additive.
Phosphorus.Anti-Wear additive.
Zinc..............Anti-Wear additive.
Molybdenum.Anti-Wear additive.

There are also tests on fuel dilution, fuel soot, and oil viscosity.
I hope I didn't bore you to death with those lists.
Just for your information most on-road truck/bus engines such as Cummins, Detroit, Caterpillar, etc. use from 25-42qts. of engine oil, not 30gal. As you indicated in your post.
It's worth remembering that motorcycle-specific engine oils are rated as API-SG, automotive oils have different API designation, and the difference lies mostly in the type and ammount of additives and temperature range.
Don, nobody is expecting you to find catastrophical engine failures do to poor lubrication on your weekend wranching - I am doing this for a living.
To prove that the next time I have a camera with me, I will take a picture and send it to you, if you'd like.

Best regards.

[deilenberger]

Hello, Deilenberger.
Gregory - it's Don..

BIG snip..


There are also tests on fuel dilution, fuel soot, and oil viscosity.
I hope I didn't bore you to death with those lists.
Wasn't boring to me at all - I have the tests and know what and why each thing is tested for.

They basically test for:

Engine wear
Oil contamination
Additive depletion
Viscosity breakdown


It's worth remembering that motorcycle-specific engine oils are rated as API-SG, automotive oils have different API designation, and the difference lies mostly in the type and ammount of additives and temperature range.
True - but not really part of the discussion on hand - which was 3,000 mile oil changes.
Don, nobody is expecting you to find catastrophical engine failures do to poor lubrication on your weekend wranching - I am doing this for a living.
And doing it for a living - you see things that are broken. You wouldn't be seeing the inside of an engine unless something was wrong. This is actually useful info - if you consider you are seeing a biased group of samples. People don't disassemble or pay to have disassembled something that is working as it should.
To prove that the next time I have a camera with me, I will take a picture and send it to you, if you'd like.

Best regards.Photos aren't needed. Severe neglect will lead to engine damage. The difference we have is I believe BMW is fairly conservative with their recommendation for 6,000 mile oil changes. My feeling is - you are not going to have oil related failure - or sludge buildup - following BMW's recommendations and using their synthetic oil. I base that on lots of miles on different BMW bikes (and a lot more with their cars) - wrenching on mine, and local club members bikes, and the oil testing.

The oil tests I've had done - the numbers for all the tests you outlined were within almost new oil levels after 6,000 miles. The lab commented that the oil could have been used longer with no risk to the engine. 3,000 mile changes were a good idea when you had engines with open crankcases (venting directly to the atmosphere.. remember these?) and the quality of the oil base stock and additive packages was much poorer. BMW's oil, used with BMW's recommended change intervals is not going to result in oil caused engine failures - and IMHO throwing away perfectly good oil at 3,000 miles really is a waste of resources (I really am not terribly concerned about the $$$ - but some people will be.)

I know I'm not going to convince you. But I think both sides of the story should be told - and anyone who wants to - should have their own oil tested and see what their change interval should be. It's not that expensive and it is very informative.

Best,

[kbasa]

Hey Paul, what kind of oil change have you used on Big Red? What's Voni got on that now, 300+K without a rebuild?

[GregoryT]

Hello, Don
Since the begining of the thread people had been asking questions about automotive oil versus motorcycle oil. This is why I specifically mentioned the difference between those two. API-SG vs. API-SM, SL/CF, SJ, SL etc.
Some time ago, I knew a person who was changing oil in his own car every 1,000 miles. Then, I knew another person that didn't change his oil at all, and instead he was just adding 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles to his car's engine. They were both driving their cars, and they were both happy.
So, if I am changing my oil every 3,000 miles, I don't think I'm doing anything wrong.

P.S.
Just for your information, Don, we had notorious problems with Powerstroke Ford Diesel engines loosing injectors (which they are energized by high pressure engine oil) at that time, we were changing engine oil every 6,000 miles. At one point, we were advised by Ford to start oil changes every 3,000 miles - guess what? The problem with injectors dissapeared.

Best regards

[kbasa]

Hello, Don
Since the begining of the thread people had been asking questions about automotive oil versus motorcycle oil. This is why I specifically mentioned the difference between those two. API-SG vs. API-SM, SL/CF, SJ, SL etc.
Some time ago, I knew a person who was changing oil in his own car every 1,000 miles. Then, I knew another person that didn't change his oil at all, and instead he was just adding 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles to his car's engine. They were both driving their cars, and they were both happy.
So, if I am changing my oil every 3,000 miles, I don't think I'm doing anything wrong.

P.S.
Just for your information, Don, we had notorious problems with Powerstroke Ford Diesel engines loosing injectors (which they are energized by high pressure engine oil) at that time, we were changing engine oil every 6,000 miles. At one point, we were advised by Ford to start oil changes every 3,000 miles - guess what? The problem with injectors dissapeared.

Best regards

Don't confuse disagreement with you as thinking you're doing something wrong.

[deilenberger]

Hello, Don
Since the begining of the thread people had been asking questions about automotive oil versus motorcycle oil. This is why I specifically mentioned the difference between those two. API-SG vs. API-SM, SL/CF, SJ, SL etc.
It's probably time for another in-depth oil analysis by MCN, but data I've seen on BobsTheOilGuy - the heavier multiviscosity car oils are very close in additive package to an SG rated oil. The "energy savings" oils are not.. and I would be hesitant to use them in a bike engine. Mobil 15W-50 has a package that hasn't suffered from the EPA regulations as far as I know.

But - that's an entirely different bowl of soup. I'm talking about using BMW synthetic oil.. which one would hope has the correct additive package for BMW bikes.
Some time ago, I knew a person who was changing oil in his own car every 1,000 miles. Then, I knew another person that didn't change his oil at all, and instead he was just adding 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles to his car's engine. They were both driving their cars, and they were both happy.
So, if I am changing my oil every 3,000 miles, I don't think I'm doing anything wrong.
If you start taking this to the "end point" - ideally then, oil should be changed every time the engine is started..

You're not doing anything wrong for the engine - but the environment might be another question.. I try to balance these things..
P.S.
Just for your information, Don, we had notorious problems with Powerstroke Ford Diesel engines loosing injectors (which they are energized by high pressure engine oil) at that time, we were changing engine oil every 6,000 miles. At one point, we were advised by Ford to start oil changes every 3,000 miles - guess what? The problem with injectors dissapeared.

Best regards
Luckily - Ford doesn't build our engines, and our engines aren't diesel.. so what Ford tells us vs what BMW tells us - I'll stick with BMW's recommendation (and I do use BMW filters and oil..)

Best,

[bthomson]

Question for TomfromMD: Can you tell more about the oil level float? My 07RT does have an OBC. The oil level has never been down (in fact never used any), so I haven't seen any low level indication. Is there something I need to know about this float, or is it OK on the 07's? I sure hope it works better than the fuel gage and low level indicator.

[TomfromMD]

Question for TomfromMD: Can you tell more about the oil level float? My 07RT does have an OBC. The oil level has never been down (in fact never used any), so I haven't seen any low level indication. Is there something I need to know about this float, or is it OK on the 07's? I sure hope it works better than the fuel gage and low level indicator.
Bob, my understanding is that BMW sorted the spurious oil warnings out in 2006 with a redesigned sensor (float) and changed software, so your 2007 should be OK in that area. On my early '06 (after the fix), the warning only appears when the level is down to about 1/8 on the sight glass - so if you keep the level at the middle dot, everything should be OK.
The gas gauge is another matter. I simply treat mine as a 5 gallon tank with a 2 gallon reserve.
The major problem with your 2007 is that you can't have the fastest color - red!!
Tom

[GregoryT]

Hi Don,
This is just a short note regarding frequency of engine oil change. Look at the Thread called "Ticking Sound" posted by BOB1100RTC.

Best Regards,

[deilenberger]

Hi Don,
This is just a short note regarding frequency of engine oil change. Look at the Thread called "Ticking Sound" posted by BOB1100RTC.

Best Regards,Greg - I give up. You MUST be right.

The fact that no data at all explaining what really happened is in the thread shouldn't matter. (I'd suspect Anton being correct - and he does fix these engines for a living - that rocker arm endplay was excessive.. it has been on almost every engine that I've checked valve play on. Seems the dealers are a tad lax in adjusting it at the 600 mile service as they're supposed to..)

But - whatever. One anecdotal report of a noise going away with an oil change must prove your point.

Change your oil whenever you want - I think it might be good to go back to 1,000 mile change intervals like we used to do in the 50's and '60's.. (yes - I'm THAT old..)

End of discussion on my part - feel free to carry on without me, I'll be ignoring it.

Best,

[macdaddybmwr1200rt]

I have an '06 RT, and I switched it to Synthetic at 6,000miles. I now have almost 13,000 and have never added ANY oil between changes. BTW, the last change with filter was at 9,000.

[stpgh]

Hello, Don
Since the begining of the thread people had been asking questions about automotive oil versus motorcycle oil. This is why I specifically mentioned the difference between those two. API-SG vs. API-SM, SL/CF, SJ, SL etc.
Some time ago, I knew a person who was changing oil in his own car every 1,000 miles. Then, I knew another person that didn't change his oil at all, and instead he was just adding 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles to his car's engine. They were both driving their cars, and they were both happy.
So, if I am changing my oil every 3,000 miles, I don't think I'm doing anything wrong.

P.S.
Just for your information, Don, we had notorious problems with Powerstroke Ford Diesel engines loosing injectors (which they are energized by high pressure engine oil) at that time, we were changing engine oil every 6,000 miles. At one point, we were advised by Ford to start oil changes every 3,000 miles - guess what? The problem with injectors dissapeared.

Best regards

I could not let the Ford Powerstroke remark go. Oil change durations are about the least significant problem with that turd of an engine.

[hector]

Gentlemen,

You mentioned earlier in the thread about correct break in. I've read just one article on this subject advocating breaking in over 10k or more! Does anyone have any "real world" break in advise?

I have a new GSA that I've ridden for it's first 1350 miles and I've noticed that it has just started to burn oil as I've increased the revs to 4.5k max. I did not rev the bike beyond 4k until after 800 miles and I've tried to follow the break in advise in the handbook.

What next?

[PGlaves]

Hey Paul, what kind of oil change have you used on Big Red? What's Voni got on that now, 300+K without a rebuild?

I use a 6K interval on everything we ride. If for some reason (traffic jam) the oil gets hotter than normal, then it comes out ASAP regardless of miles.

I use SG rated dino oil.

[deilenberger]

Gentlemen,

You mentioned earlier in the thread about correct break in. I've read just one article on this subject advocating breaking in over 10k or more! Does anyone have any "real world" break in advise?

I have a new GSA that I've ridden for it's first 1350 miles and I've noticed that it has just started to burn oil as I've increased the revs to 4.5k max. I did not rev the bike beyond 4k until after 800 miles and I've tried to follow the break in advise in the handbook.

What next?I'd advise varying the RPM's and using some engine braking.

My R1200R stopped using oil entirely during a 3 day ride through extreme twisties in West Virginia. There were no "sustained" speeds for 3 days (and no slab riding) - instead, lots of RPM use - up/down/engine-braking. By the end of the 3 days the bike simply stopped using oil. What you want to do is use the engine - but use it so the rings experience lots of different speeds and loading.

I suspect that if you follow that regime - you'll also have a non-burner before 4k miles..

FWIW - I went to synthetic at 6k miles - and it hasn't moved in the window now at 10k miles.

[hector]

Thanks Don, I appreciate your advise.

I have tried to vary the throttle all the time when I ride. I have done some highway miles in that time (it's difficult not to in Southern Cal) but I am trying to add in as many twisty, hilly roads as I can.

I am a little cautious about taking the engine up the rev range so early in it's life. When do you recommend I run the bike over 4.5k? I can feel the motor loosening up but I don't want to push it too soon. The motor seems to vibrate a bit over 4k but I imagine that is the Torque curve?

This is my first new bike and I want to get it right!

I should add my old 1150gs burnt oil in various quantities until 23k. It wasn't new when I got it so I just rode it and changed the oil at 3k intervals.

[Motorradfahrer]

My 2006 R1200rt consumed dino oil till about 18,000 then ceased consuming. This is very normal for the boxers when new. At 20,000 miles I switched to BMW's synthetic oil and have after 32,000 miles not consumed a drop. You can either stay with dino oil for economic sake but the synthetic does help at thermal shear better than dino.

[deilenberger]

Thanks Don, I appreciate your advise.

I have tried to vary the throttle all the time when I ride. I have done some highway miles in that time (it's difficult not to in Southern Cal) but I am trying to add in as many twisty, hilly roads as I can.

I am a little cautious about taking the engine up the rev range so early in it's life. When do you recommend I run the bike over 4.5k? I can feel the motor loosening up but I don't want to push it too soon. The motor seems to vibrate a bit over 4k but I imagine that is the Torque curve?

This is my first new bike and I want to get it right!

I should add my old 1150gs burnt oil in various quantities until 23k. It wasn't new when I got it so I just rode it and changed the oil at 3k intervals.

I wouldn't have a problem with higher RPMs - just don't hang out there... 4.5K on in 6th your GS should manage to break any legal speed limit in the US so it's not really a worry. I think the big trick in breaking the engine in is keeping the RPMs varying as much as possible. If you have to drone along a freeway - alternate between 5th and 6th..

[hector]

Thanks once again Don, I appreciate your advise.

Happy New Year to one and all!