Spline greasing video

[bmw14651]

I just found a note to myself written some time ago to acquire a video from BMWMOA regarding greasing the spline (gearbox input shaft/clutch presumably). Does anyone know of the existence of such a video?

[Bill Burke]

Don't know if this is it, but you might want to read:

http://www.bmwmoa.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20070&highlight=spline+video

[115779]

I have been thinking about the same for some time now... the clutch spline lube seems more daunting than it probably is. Snowbum has a good tech. article on the Airheads website. Did you find a video? If you did... where? Thanks.

[rickbittle]

I just found a note to myself written some time ago to acquire a video from BMWMOA regarding greasing the spline (gearbox input shaft/clutch presumably). Does anyone know of the existence of such a video?

I found 2 videos from Motorcyce Video with 2 addresses & 2 phone #'s. 4629 Taos Drive, San Diego, Ca. 92117 , 619-581-2613 & 9485 High Park Lane, San Diego, Ca. 92129, 619-538-8394. One is BMW Twins 1970-1988. Complete carb rebuild & trans input-spline lube. This one is great. Also, BMW Twins 1970-1988 10 K service. Another great one. I bought them from a guy on the BMW MOA flea market. Don't know if the Co. still exists. Try the #'s. If they do definately get them. I've got a '76 R90/6 as well as a '62 r60/2. Rick Bittle

[sumran]

I can think of dozens of video topics I would gladly pay for if they were available. Wheel and steering head bearing inspection/lube/adjustment, spline lube, valve adjustment and timing, brakes, timing chain, carb adjustment or rebuild, major service, shaft and final drive service or replacement...it is a long list. I am building a library of written material as quickly as I can, but a picture can be worth a thousand words. A moving picture narrated by someone that knows the subject is worth even more.

I would like to have regular interaction with a pool of experienced wrenches, but does not appear to be available in my area. My time is limited due to work, family, etc., but I want to learn. I will get there with the tools I have available, but I would get there quicker with a good video series. Shucks, I would even make a donation to help the cause of a willing expert that lacked the equipment to produce the videos.

[PAULBACH]

I once suggested to the Foundation that a library of such videos would well serve both the


treasury of the Foundation
knowledge base of the BMW community

There certainly is the talent in the community to produce a collection of the videos.

[DennisDarrow]

I read this thread with very mixed emotions.

First of all, I would be glad to step forward and produce several series of video productions to cover various maintenance procedures on BMW motorcycles. We, D&D Productions, dndprovideo.com, are producers training videos over very broad subject areas for the U.S. Air Force, U.S. Navy, U.S. Army, Case New Holland, and many others. That said, let me outline a few constraints:

Copyright infringement is a huge problem. As this thread is an excellent example. Someone takes the time, energy, overhead, and capital to produce one of these for sale on speculation. A person purchases a copy of a DVD or VHS then turns around, copies them, and offers them for sale by various means. This bypasses the original producer who is therefore cheated out of their well deserved renumerations.

Yes, anyone with a camera and Windows Movie Maker can produce a video. There is a huge difference between amateur and professional presentations. Not to belabor this point; but you do pay for what you get.

Talent and facilities are quantities that are tangible and necessary. Wouldn't it be great to get Mr. Parkhouse, Mr Glaves, or Mr. Okleshon, not to leave out others, to be the "talent" and share their knowledge and eperiences. They deserve and probably would demand to be paid for their time and of course their travel.

Costs involved? Shooting with at least 3 camera views, wireless audio, cameras that produce broadcast quality color and image, robotics DVD duplicator that prints on the DVD itself, and editing equipment that will produce a product that is marketable. MANY OTHER variables, not to mention the expertise to actually write, shoot, edit, direct and produce this type of product.

For this type of product, shooting is quite lengthy. For each let's say 30 minutes of finished video, 4 to 6 hours of actual production would be required. The editing would be 6 to 8 hours.

Cost of the shooting/editing for that 30 minutes of finished DVD in the $1000 to $1500 range.

At $20 per copy, yes, one could recoup this by selling 100 to 200 copies. Don't forget about the copyright problem...................


Sooooooo..............to make a long story short..............I again, welcome taking this on as a project............I have thought about proposing this for a couple of years; but frankly working on non-speculative projects keeps us totally busy.

PLEASE do go to dndprovideo.com...............feel free to get in touch with us about actually doing these...........THANKS............God Bless............Dennis

[sumran]

I read this thread with very mixed emotions.

First of all, I would be glad to step forward and produce several series of video productions to cover various maintenance procedures on BMW motorcycles. We, D&D Productions, dndprovideo.com, are producers training videos over very broad subject areas for the U.S. Air Force, U.S. Navy, U.S. Army, Case New Holland, and many others. That said, let me outline a few constraints:

Copyright infringement is a huge problem. As this thread is an excellent example. Someone takes the time, energy, overhead, and capital to produce one of these for sale on speculation. A person purchases a copy of a DVD or VHS then turns around, copies them, and offers them for sale by various means. This bypasses the original producer who is therefore cheated out of their well deserved renumerations.

Yes, anyone with a camera and Windows Movie Maker can produce a video. There is a huge difference between amateur and professional presentations. Not to belabor this point; but you do pay for what you get.

Talent and facilities are quantities that are tangible and necessary. Wouldn't it be great to get Mr. Parkhouse, Mr Glaves, or Mr. Okleshon, not to leave out others, to be the "talent" and share their knowledge and eperiences. They deserve and probably would demand to be paid for their time and of course their travel.

Costs involved? Shooting with at least 3 camera views, wireless audio, cameras that produce broadcast quality color and image, robotics DVD duplicator that prints on the DVD itself, and editing equipment that will produce a product that is marketable. MANY OTHER variables, not to mention the expertise to actually write, shoot, edit, direct and produce this type of product.

For this type of product, shooting is quite lengthy. For each let's say 30 minutes of finished video, 4 to 6 hours of actual production would be required. The editing would be 6 to 8 hours.

Cost of the shooting/editing for that 30 minutes of finished DVD in the $1000 to $1500 range.

At $20 per copy, yes, one could recoup this by selling 100 to 200 copies. Don't forget about the copyright problem...................


Sooooooo..............to make a long story short..............I again, welcome taking this on as a project............I have thought about proposing this for a couple of years; but frankly working on non-speculative projects keeps us totally busy.

PLEASE do go to dndprovideo.com...............feel free to get in touch with us about actually doing these...........THANKS............God Bless............Dennis

It is encouraging to hear your response. I would expect the demand would make the undertaking profitable. Presales of a topic to individuals or clubs could provide capital to cover costs in advance. I do not know how to solve the copyright problem, and I understand it is a legitimate concern. I am sure there is technology available that would help, although I expect it would add to the cost of the finished product. We probably have a member that works in the field.

Perhaps, if the costs could be underwritten for one video, it could serve as a test case for future topics. I would be happy to prepay for three or four copies and wait for a few months to get them. They would make great gifts! A complete 10k service with spline lube and oil/filter change might be a good start.

Thanks again for the interest. Hope something good for all of us comes out of the discussion.

[115779]

First, thanks to Rick Bittle! This is definitely a great topic... doing one's own maintenance... I would cherish an instructional video because I AM willing to do my own maintenance but as someone mentioned, sometimes words just don't complete the picture. Being one with one's own machine gives great confidence and enables one to feel great about accomplishing a task and then taking that long trip. I have an '81 R100RT and this is the bike I trip with.

[PGlaves]

Copyright infringement is a huge problem. As this thread is an excellent example.
Talent and facilities are quantities that are tangible and necessary. Wouldn't it be great to get Mr. Parkhouse, Mr Glaves, or Mr. Okleshon, not to leave out others, to be the "talent" and share their knowledge and eperiences. They deserve and probably would demand to be paid for their time and of course their travel.

For this type of product, shooting is quite lengthy. For each let's say 30 minutes of finished video, 4 to 6 hours of actual production would be required. The editing would be 6 to 8 hours.



I don't pretend to know that much about video productions. So I'm not sure to what extent making a video might slow the actual mechanical work down. I have done this at an "instructional" pace with folks looking on. It was on an Airhead which is simple compared to doing it on an Oilhead. At that "instructional" pace - explaining what you are doing instead of just doing it - an Oilhead spline lube would take a couple of days of shop time.

Here is a shot of an R1100RT with the transmission just pulled to work on the clutch. Not particularly pretty from a photographic standpoint but a good illustration as to where you need to go - starting and then finishing with a complete road-ready bike.

[115779]

Holy smokes Paul! At first, I wasn't even sure what I was looking at . Rick, the phone numbers were not correct. Is there a chance of getting an updated number? I tried looking for them on the net and cannot find them. Thanks.

[115779]

My apologies Rick, I just noticed the part about the Co. possibly not being in business.

[PGlaves]

Holy smokes Paul! At first, I wasn't even sure what I was looking at . Rick, the phone numbers were not correct. Is there a chance of getting an updated number? I tried looking for them on the net and cannot find them. Thanks.

R1100RTP - body work off. Everything that obstructs the transmission or swinging up the rear subframe off. Subframe up out of the way. Transmission removed.

To lube the spline at this point I would clean and inspect the clutch hub splines and the transmission input shaft splines. If serviceable the splines are lubricated and the bike is put back together.

[bobh41]

Does it have to be this way? I realize it's a dry clutch, but is there some way to clean it up?

[DennisDarrow]

I want to thank here all of the folks who have stepped forward with offers of help, actual work, encouragement, and atta boys..........................

This project is going to go forward and into production. Yes, many loose ends to tie down but the momentum is there...................

Further developments will be posted in a different thread; but just to let YOU know that in the near future, YOU will have references in video format, that will cover the various 10K maintenance procedures, driveline maintenance, electrical troubleshooting, maintenance, and repair..........ON AND ON...............

Again.........in the brief time that this idea has been posted I am amazed and grateful for those that have stepped forward with the gracious thoughts................

Thank YOU God..................Dennis

[PGlaves]

Does it have to be this way? I realize it's a dry clutch, but is there some way to clean it up?

Sure!

The rust can be cleaned off. I would remove all 4 clutch parts and clean the clutch cover, spring, and pressure plate well away from the disk which could absorb contaminants.

[yllib]

It looks like you removed at least part of the brakes. With a couple of tricks you can do it without doing that while leaving the ABS pump in tack. It sure makes the job a lot simpler.

[PGlaves]

It looks like you removed at least part of the brakes. With a couple of tricks you can do it without doing that while leaving the ABS pump in tack. It sure makes the job a lot simpler.

That is true - I've seen shops do it that way. I pretty much have seen all those tricks. The key however is how many sets of hands are available. You can bend the battery tray with ABS in place if you have somebody to hold it when you are putting the transmission back. You can then bend it back and the worst thing that happens is the paint peels and it rusts where you bent it. You can on some models loosen the sideplates but not remove them if you have a couple of people who can hold them out of the way - or if you have enough places to hook bungee cords beside the bike.

I generally work alone - no extra hands. And, I really don't like bending pieces of other folks or our bikes just so I can do something quicker. So I generally take stuff off that is in the way.

I have also, for example - rolled the wheel, final drive, swingarm, and transmission off the back of the bike as an assembly. But this doesn't allow checking and lubricating or replacing such things as paralever bearings or swingarm bearings; or checking universal joints and lubricating the driveshaft splines. So I normally do it in a manner that allows me to clean, lubricate, check, and verify everything. Takes a little longer for sure but other than saving a bit of time I have no incentive to take shortcuts.

Others, including shops, may have different incentives or view this differently.

Added: I got an email just the other day from an owner who couldn't figure out why he had a dry, rusty driveshaft spline since a dealership had done a clutch spline lube about 5,000 miles ago. It made perfect sense to me - not because they took it apart and didn't lube it, but because they probably didn't take it apart. Now the flat rate book assumes they took it apart to remove the transmission, and they got paid by the flat rate book. Reach your own conclusions as to how beneficial the shortcuts are, and who they benefit. I already have reached my conclusions.

[yllib]

I always work by myself too. Especially at a dealership. It's hard to find good help.

I never bend the batt/ABS tray! I remove the four tray mounting nuts. That allows the assembly to move enough without ever bending anything.

I do hang a lot of stuff from the ceiling, bungee cords, and zipties.

I always take the FD off as well. I agree about flat rate paying for that to be done. Plus, you need to look at that stuff to properly diagnose driveline issues. The most common problem I have found back there is the drive shaft spinning in its rubber damper. Most of the time you can keep track of it by minding the rubber molding flash marks and seeing if they line up if it isn't quite obvious.

I find not disassembling the ABS brake system a very beneficial shortcut. I don't see any good coming from removing it like the manual says you should.

[PGlaves]

I always work by myself too. Especially at a dealership. It's hard to find good help.

I never bend the batt/ABS tray! I remove the four tray mounting nuts. That allows the assembly to move enough without ever bending anything.

I do hang a lot of stuff from the ceiling, bungee cords, and zipties.

I always take the FD off as well. I agree about flat rate paying for that to be done. Plus, you need to look at that stuff to properly diagnose driveline issues. The most common problem I have found back there is the drive shaft spinning in its rubber damper. Most of the time you can keep track of it by minding the rubber molding flash marks and seeing if they line up if it isn't quite obvious.

I find not disassembling the ABS brake system a very beneficial shortcut. I don't see any good coming from removing it like the manual says you should.

Good info. For my future reference, how do you get the rear subframe to swing up with the hard lines from the ABS unit in place, still attached at the rear master cylinder. I have not figured out how to do that - and once the system was open at those lines I figured pulling the unit was no big deal.

[yllib]

Thanks!

I get to the front batt/ABS tray nuts with a 1/4 inch drive Snap-on swivel socket on a long 1/4" extension and JUST take the nuts to the last thread so you don't have to get them re-started. I mention Snap-on because it is a tight fit and they are about the best ones out there.

I hang the caliper, mc, and reservoir from the sub-frame after I raise it I believe. It's funny, I have done it SO many times but I can't recall the exact order of it all. I think I hold the hard rear brake line out to the side with a long skinny bungee hook?

Sorry I can't recall it step by step.