Corsica - A motorcyclist's paradise.

[GlobalRider]

Corsica - a motorcyclist's paradise!

Having spent many years riding around in Europe, primarily the Alps, Corsica has always been on my list of must-ride places.

Its interesting how a ferry ride can be just enough to put even the most enthusiastic of travellers on a different path, an easier one, one with a road instead. Well after having toured Corsica and Newfoundland, let me tell you, having to take a ferry is worth the trouble.

I started my day near Rovereto, Italy and planned to make it to Livorno later that afternoon. The SS12 is a direct route, one that actually starts at the Brenner Pass. The portion of the SS12 from Verona to just south of Maranello is quite uneventful; straight and flat is not my idea of motorcycling road. But once south of there to Lucca, it gets to be a challenge especially if you need to make time.

Arriving at the ferry port in Livorno just after 18:00, I proceeded to book the ferry and cabin for the night. This avoids having to fight early morning traffic and having to find the ferry port the next morning if staying in a nearby hotel. Besides the cabin was just as cheap, if not moreso than a hotel.

While waiting to board the Moby Lines ferry at 20:00, a KTM Adventure rider from Austria joined me in the two-man, two bike line-up...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/149217056-L.jpg

There were about 8 people on board for the night. Privacy wasn't an issue!
The ferry departed Livorno at 09:00 the next morning, arriving in Bastia, Corsica at 13:00. Along the way the islands of Elba and Capraia to name a few, were visible.


Arriving in Bastia, Corsica...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151432451-L.jpg


Whenever I tour, I usually take a hotel or B&B in an area for a few days, making it my home base so that I can explore the area in detail. Hotel Maxime in St. Florent caters to motorcyclists by providing locked garage parking.


Residents and tourists knowing how to slow down. An evening in St. Florent...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/149217068-L.jpg


The map to get is the Michelin 345 Local - Corse-du-Sud, Haute-Corse with a scale of 1/150 000. That scale provides very good detail. You'll notice both N and D series roads. The N roads are great for making time, but are boring. When there and if you enjoy back-roads riding, stick to the D series of roads.


The following day, a ride around Cap Corse and the view from the northern most point...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151432457-L.jpg


The Gorges de l'Asco road (D147) can hold some surprises. I came across this boulder upon exiting this hairpin...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/149217082-L.jpg


Further along the Gorges de l'Asco road before reaching the summit. Monte Cinto at 2706 m (8878 ft) is Corsica's highest peak and adjacent to the end of the road. This road may be a dead end, but the ride back was just as enjoyable...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151428475-L.jpg


Returning down the Gorges de l'Asco road, east of the town of Asco...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151428486-L.jpg


Roads, nice and narrow, and free of traffic. On the D5 between Bigorno and Murato...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151428495-L.jpg


On the D5, overlooking the town of Lento...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151428516-L.jpg


Pigs are a common sight along and on the roads in Corsica...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151428543-L.jpg


The island's west coast are where the twisties are. The Les Calanche road (D81) just south of the town Porto offers this incredible view overlooking the Golfe de Porto...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151432466-L.jpg


The town of Propriano...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151430154-L.jpg


I made Hotel Beach in Propriano my home base for another few days. They also offered secure locked garage parking for motorcycles.


The view from the town of Bonifacio looking along the coast westward...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151432470-L.jpg


At the southern most tip, the town of Bonifacio and also the ferry port to the town of Santa Teresa Gallura, a short hop to the Italian island of Sardinia...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151432476-L.jpg


Between the town of Zonza and the Col de Bavella on the D268...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151433100-L.jpg


The view from my cabin in Solenzara...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151430163-L.jpg


What more could one want other than a cabin with the Mediterranean Sea right out the back window. I stayed at the Hotel Mare e Festa (http://www.marefesta.com) in Solenzara making it my third and last home base while on Corsica...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151430171-L.jpg

By the way, Hotel Mare e Festa was by far the cheapest at €40 a night (June 2006) and it even included a full breakfast. The other hotels all ran about €60 per night and a full breakfast was extra for another €7.50.


Taken between the town of Aullène and the Col de St. Eustache on the D420...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151430182-L.jpg


Move along...single file please. Taken on the D69 near St. Antoine...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151430187-L.jpg


On the Bocca di Scaledda on the D27 north of the town of Bastelica...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151433108-L.jpg

Continued...

[GlobalRider]

On the D69 heading up from the N193 towards the Col de Sorba...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151430857-L.jpg


Sadly back in Livorno after getting off the "Corsica Ferries" ferry...
http://edelweiss.smugmug.com/photos/151430867-L.jpg


Some thoughts...

June through August are very hot. I was there mid June and the temperatures peaked at 37°C (99°F). The best period to tour there would be April-May and September-October.

Accomodations along the Mediterranean Sea may be a bit more expensive, but the views are priceless. Furthermore, it tends to be a bit cooler as well as offering an evening breeze. It can get quite a bit warmer inland.

I didn't book any accomodations; I never do during any of my tours. The same goes for the Moby Lines ferry to Corsica, although I did book the return ferry the day after arriving through a travel agent in St. Florent.

I would suggest a two-week stay. I spent eight full days there and it wasn't enough for my style of touring which means touring the area in detail.

[grossjohann]

Thanks for sharing this with us, Alex.

Your pictures brought back all sorts of memories from my European excursions. Maybe it's time to go back for a while.

Take care,
Alex

[GlobalRider]

Your pictures brought back all sorts of memories from my European excursions. Maybe it's time to go back for a while.

Take care,
Alex

Well, if you were there before, it must be torture not having been there for a while.

You know, if I could only ride here or there, it would be there, even if that meant only getting in 4 or 5 weeks of riding a year.

Here is another pic-filled Corsica ride report from a rider in WA state. He just packed some stuff, flew over, rented a Suzuki DR 650 (all you really need) and winged it...the whole trip...self-guided, and that was his first time over in Europe on a motorcycle. :thumb

Corsica ride in October, DR 650 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277389)

[grossjohann]

There is the good, and then there is the not so good.

Pace of life, wonderful women and picturesque vistas are some of the good.

On the other hand, don’t get in trouble outside of the EU, and good luck getting much of anything done on a tight schedule. My grandfather spent 8 months trying to get a phone after he built his house in Greece. He finally bribed them at the suggestion of a friend.

As much as I love to visit, I enjoy coming home.

-Alex

[rocketman]

Very kool! I'd love to get back to Europe some day, lived there as a kid and have wonderful memories. Corsica sounds like just my cup of tea, more so than many other areas, love the small towns and roads you've shown us here, not to mention the views of the Mediterranean. Thanks for the inspiration...

I need to show this thread to my other half and get her thinking about a tour there by motorcycle.

RM

[kbasa]

:clap

[dlearl476]

Well, if you were there before, it must be torture not having been there for a while.

You know, if I could only ride here or there, it would be there, even if that meant only getting in 4 or 5 weeks of riding a year.



+1

I've found Italy an addiction like no other. I lived for a while as a kid in Paris, and until my association with CR&S took me to Milan, my "vision" of Europe was all France, Germany, the Lowlands and the UK. Now, I often find myself daydreaming of the Dolomites, or the Duomo, or even, about flying over for an espresso at my favorite cafe bar. (frequent flyer miles will do that to you) Currently, I'm having a difficult time convincing myself NOT to go to EICMA, because it would mean a 48 hr plane ride for a few days at the show and cold weather, no riding. I'm trying to be patient and save for a two week trip down the east coast next September when my current job ends and I won't have a nagging US obligation to return to.

Alex, thanks so much for the pics.

[GlobalRider]

I've found Italy an addiction like no other.

Its hard to predict the future, but I'm considering retiring in Europe; probably northern Italy or Austria near the Italian border. I've probably mentioned this already, but I am getting my EU citizenship automatically. :clap

I know all about ILS, Va and Vne, but what is CR&S and EICMA? :dunno

48 hour plane ride? Has the planet gotten bigger or are taking a flight in a Piper Cub? :dunno

[Holly]

Seriously, Alex, I hope it all works out for you. Sounds like the perfect plan.

Are you coming to the Toronto show in Dec? Marc and Susan have already booked their room at my place. They will be bringing pics of their Scotland tour.

Holly

[franze]

Hey, I appreciate the map/ferry info. Looks cool, worth checking out. You seem to get around. Have you ridden in southern Italy? I've heard ALOT of people, many Italian, telling me to forget about driving or riding south of Rome as the drivers and roads are horrible. Oh, nice boulder........... something like that is way better than a double espresso. How many km til you got out of second???? Loved your pix.

[TR250Tom]

Yeah, paradise. I'd been off the ferry for about 40 minutes when I got rear-ended going through a town, when I had to brake for a dog that ran in front of me. The other guy was very understanding, said there was nothing I could have done. I was tempted to ask why he was following me about 5cm behind my rear bumper.

My 3 week old Peugeot 206 was smashed up, but my son in the back seat was unharmed. When the police came, it transpired that the other driver had no ID, no valid license, no proof of insurance, no registration, and said the rusty Talbot belonged to his father. Local boy, so no problem, off he goes.

And you want to ride a Motorcycle there?

A bien tot. Tom

[SNC1923]

Alex,

Great, thorough report. Clear well-composed photographs. After reading this, I feel like I've been on a tour myself. Thank you for having us along.

:clap

[BubbaZanetti]

do you rent the bike when you get over there???

very nice photos

[GlobalRider]

Are you coming to the Toronto show in Dec?

Holly

Absolutely. How else could I make it through the winter without going to the two shows in the area. I'll most likely be there Firday.

I better get my butt in gear and book a room. Thanks for reminding me.

[GlobalRider]

Hey, I appreciate the map/ferry info. Looks cool, worth checking out. You seem to get around.

There is lots more map info on the link below my signature pic. See the 2nd post in that link. The FREE ADAC maps are a bonus and provide all the tour suggestions one could need to start riding the Alps, but then you live there and probably know them all.

Get around? If you only knew how little compared to most BMW riders.



Have you ridden in southern Italy? I've heard ALOT of people, many Italian, telling me to forget about driving or riding south of Rome as the drivers and roads are horrible. How many km til you got out of second????

I've never been south of Livorno yet. I'd like to see Cinque Terre (up the coast a bit) and also the Amalfi coast, but all in time. I wouldn't worry about driving in southern Italy as long as you are attentive, but that applies when driving anywhere. I always get secure locked parking where ever I go and thats probably more important in the south.

My plan is to do Corsica, Sardinia and Sicily in the near future. If it wasn't for work!!!

[GlobalRider]

I was tempted to ask why he was following me about 5cm behind my rear bumper.

Thats normal...well not 5 cm, but you know what I mean. Most North Americans get intimidated and don't really understand why they drive so close. Well in the mountains where you only have straights so long, you can't afford to hang back 100 yards and then decide to pass. You'll never make your pass before the next turn.


And you want to ride a Motorcycle there?

Been doing it for 13 years. I'm glad unlucky 13 has come and gone. I've never had a problem driving there. In fact, driving in Europe is a pleasure. Far less attitude behind the steering wheels of cars.

[GlobalRider]

do you rent the bike when you get over there???

No, I use my own. I had an old R65 there between 1995 and 2004 and I've been on the GS Adventure since 2005. The R65 was a bit small for a rider my size, but no complaints; I saw a lot on it and it cost me next to nothing.