Stalling/surging- HELP! (put on your thinking caps

[SugarHillCTD]

OK folks- we have owned our '94 K1100RS (used, 70K on the clock) for a little over 24 hours. We really like it, but....

Cathy and I went for a ride for a couple of hours- mostly local, 2 lane roads and after 1/2 hour to 40 minutes or so the bike stuttered a couple of times and died when we had started to climb Tripoli Rd (several miles of paved/unpaved). Tried to start it. No good. Sat for 2-3 minutes then started right up. Went a mile or so- it stuttered a few times then cleared. Within a half mile, it coughed several times then died. Had to wait again for a minute or so for it to start. This went on several times. It would stutter then clear or stutter and die or just die.

(My thought is that it is) due to water in the gas since it was sitting a lot at the dealers or could it be something else. We REALLY like this bike- when it runs well it is FFAASSTT!!!!!!!!!!!!

When we picked up the bike at the dealer, it was running well. We had it in the back of our truck for the 2 hour drive home and it had 1/2 tank of gas that was left in it from the dealer. After our first hour of the surge/die routine, we stopped for some "dry gas" and filled the tank w/91 octane. The surge/die happened 3 times after that. BTW, it did NOT happen at 60mph or higher.

Any ideas?? HELP

John

[cjack]

You can check for water by removing the filler cap assembly. Easy to see the bottom of the tank, etc.
Do all the instrument lights stay on when it fails?

[PGlaves]

Voni and I went for a ride in Big Bend National Park this afternoon. When we got back to the house there was a red Pontiac on the shoulder in front of the house - hood up. As soon as I got my gear off I went out to see what the problem was. The car would start, run ten seconds or so and die. He thought maybe a clogged fuel filter. I asked if they were sure there was gas in it. He said they just filled up at Study Butte (25 miles away).

I walked back across the road to my shop and got a bottle of Iso-Heet - the isopropyl stuff in the red bottle. I walked back to the car and told him I thought he got a dose of water in the fuel he had just put in. I suspected the water was clogging the filter and not doing the injectors a lot of good either.

I poured the Iso-Heat in the tank. We waited about a minute and he started the car. He revved the engine a little. It ran 5 seconds, ten seconds, thirty seconds, one minute .... two minutes.

He said "Man that's some **** in that red bottle." Thanked me, paid me a couple of bucks for the Heet, and off he went.

Moral of the story: I think your K bike has water in the fuel.

p.s. When traveling I always have a bottle of Heet with me. Wet fuel too many times to be without it.

[PGlaves]

Added comment: The late Rob Lentini and others had experience where water in the fuel would clog the filter and cause the filter media to collapse - discovered by cutting the filter open after the fact.

If the media collapses it may still clog even if the fuel drier deals with the water.

[SugarHillCTD]

You can check for water by removing the filler cap assembly. Easy to see the bottom of the tank, etc.
Do all the instrument lights stay on when it fails?

The dash light act just as if the engine stalls.

As I mentioned in my first post, it can stutter a few times then clear, stutter a few times then die or (and this only happened twice, I think) it will just cut out.

If this continues, I will empty the tank (not as easy to take off and drain as older bikes!) and check the filter.

Thank you both for the info so far.

One other question- on back roads and on the highway the temperature gauge stays right in the middle. But slow going in town or slower speeds when climbing has it go up to one "tick" away from red. Should I hear (difficult with the sport Staintune that the bike came with- which I want to change out to something quieter) or feel the fan running? Is there a way to check on the fan?

Thanks again

John

[motoedde]

OK folks- we have owned our '94 K1100RS (used, 70K on the clock) for a little over 24 hours. We really like it, but....

Cathy and I went for a ride for a couple of hours- mostly local, 2 lane roads and after 1/2 hour to 40 minutes or so the bike stuttered a couple of times and died when we had started to climb Tripoli Rd (several miles of paved/unpaved). Tried to start it. No good. Sat for 2-3 minutes then started right up. Went a mile or so- it stuttered a few times then cleared. Within a half mile, it coughed several times then died. Had to wait again for a minute or so for it to start. This went on several times. It would stutter then clear or stutter and die or just die.


John


Start with the simple stuff first in the order below...

1. Check to make sure your spark plug wires are snug and tight on the plugs.
2. Check that your battery cables are snug and tight.
3. Find a can of DryGas at Autoparts store and pour in the correct ration for 5 gallons, and fill up tank....if waters in the tank, then the Dry Gas should sort this out.

HTH

[PGlaves]

One other question- on back roads and on the highway the temperature gauge stays right in the middle. But slow going in town or slower speeds when climbing has it go up to one "tick" away from red. Should I hear (difficult with the sport Staintune that the bike came with- which I want to change out to something quieter) or feel the fan running? Is there a way to check on the fan?

Thanks again

John

The temperature indications are relatively normal. But, the fans in these bikes are prone to failure. They come on seldom enough typically that grunge forced into the front fan motor bearing sometimes binds them up. Then when they try to come on they won't turn and the plastic brush holders melt. Then you need a new fan motor.

To check for this condition find a way to reach in and spin the fan by hand. If it turns freely you are probably OK. If not, the fan motor could be fried.

[CustomSarge]

How does it behave 1st in morning? If good until same 30-45 min, the hall sensor may be opening up due to heat. The 60+mph might be enough air cooling to stave off failure.

Under dry conditions, you could take off the "T" shaped sensor cover & see if it runs longer.

I wouldn't use aerosol cooling spray directly, the thermal shock can cause an encapsulation fracture. Spraying it from 4"-8" would cool it slowly & help prove the problem. Just a thought... Good Hunting... <<<)))

[smilingcouple]

OK folks- we have owned our '94 K1100RS (used, 70K on the clock) for a little over 24 hours. We really like it, but....

Cathy and I went for a ride for a couple of hours- mostly local, 2 lane roads and after 1/2 hour to 40 minutes or so the bike stuttered a couple of times and died when we had started to climb Tripoli Rd (several miles of paved/unpaved). Tried to start it. No good. Sat for 2-3 minutes then started right up. Went a mile or so- it stuttered a few times then cleared. Within a half mile, it coughed several times then died. Had to wait again for a minute or so for it to start. This went on several times. It would stutter then clear or stutter and die or just die.

(My thought is that it is) due to water in the gas since it was sitting a lot at the dealers or could it be something else. We REALLY like this bike- when it runs well it is FFAASSTT!!!!!!!!!!!!

When we picked up the bike at the dealer, it was running well. We had it in the back of our truck for the 2 hour drive home and it had 1/2 tank of gas that was left in it from the dealer. After our first hour of the surge/die routine, we stopped for some "dry gas" and filled the tank w/91 octane. The surge/die happened 3 times after that. BTW, it did NOT happen at 60mph or higher.

Any ideas?? HELP

John

I used to race bikes, if your fan in not working, the temp under the gas tank is getting hot. When the bike shutters is the temp on the high side? If so you are most likely getting a vapor lock. This starves the injectors of fuel until the temp under the gas tank comes down. On a cold day the problem should be less. Or upon the first start in the morning.

Murf

[jpeck]

I had similar symptoms on my K75 last year. The engine would cut out briefly then be ok. At first it was very infrequent, but got more frequent over time. At some point I noticed that after it cut out the ABS light would flash until I touched the brakes, just like at startup. I added drygas at first and thought I'd fixed the problem, but it was just that the problem was intermittent. After a lot of head scratching, I decided that it was acting the same as if I was turning the ignition on and off. Being cheap, I disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled the ignition switch, and it's been fine ever since. I suppose a new switch would have had the same effect.

[SugarHillCTD]

Thanks everyone for the input. The dealer was apologetic that it is happening- so before I have to start troubleshooting, they are going to check it out.

They are picking it up today (a two hour drive each way) with their lift gate equipped box truck and will run diagnostics on it.

Will let the forum know the particulars that they hopefully find.

Thanks again,
John

[smilingcouple]

Just remembered I had to change my starter button. The spring broke and was partially engaging, taking the power from the motor to run. It would start, run at low RPMS then die. Sometimes it would run perfectly then shutter and bog down.

I replaced the switch and no problems.

Murf

[zigamo]

I had very similar problem - went to the forum and found the sequence of things to check - fuel filter, fuel pump, then ignition, one thing that many overlook in common maintinence on the bike is the pin connectors to the fuel injection control unit underneath the seat, that large 20 plus pin connector needs to be cleaned. This simple cleaning saved me - time and $$$$. An easy do it yourself on the older K's.