Abs

[Fritzc]

I hit a deer a while ago and have finally got the bike back together. :dance Went for a test ride and the ABS lights will not quit flashing. :banghead I read the manual and it does not make sense. :hungover When starting bike the two flashing ABS lights blink alternately as always. Upon starting up and going three miles per hour the lights are supposed to go off which they do not. There was also an audible "clink" in the wheel (resetting?) but now is not there. Manual says if lights are flashing (stall and start again) to turn off ABS, stop, shut off engine for a few seconds then start up again and ABS should reset itself. I tried that and they continue to flash. I turned off the ABS and the bottom light stays on steady for a while but soon the two lights are flashing alternately again. The manual says to "Take the bike to the dealer for repairs immediately." I was thinking of disconnecting the lights and ride it anyway! What can go wrong? I rode for 30 years on bikes that did not have ABS and the manual says the brakes will perform normally but will just not be ABS.:dunno
Thanks are in order for any and all advice that may be coming.

[2BikeMike]

Did you check the clearance between the ABS sensor and the ABS sensor ring? Not sure what the gap should be, but it has to be right.

[Fritzc]

Did you check the clearance between the ABS sensor and the ABS sensor ring? Not sure what the gap should be, but it has to be right.

It is supposed to be between .500 and .550 mm. I measured it and it is .508 mm.
I didn't measure the back as I hit the deer head on. Also the deer hit high up and the fairing took the main blunt of the force.
:wave Thanks for the favor of a reply.:wave

[OfficerImpersonator]

Have you checked your fluid levels? Front circuit, rear circuit, ABS circuit...

[dbOnIce]

The trouble-shooting section in my manual makes referance to the Hydraulic function of the brake system.
1. Fluid too low
2. no pressure at the lever or pedal (ign. off)
3. no brake pressure at 1 wheel
4. brake fluid leak

Good luck, db

[rkasal]

Are all other functions and lights operating normally? There's no short to ground, is there?

Regards,


Randy Kasal

[JimMoore]

There is a procedure to reset the ABS. I don't know it offhand, but I bet you can find it if you search at www.bmwst.com. Also, You can pull the ABS relay and remove the bottom bulb. Your bike will then be non-abs, if you decide to go that route.

[Fritzc]

Are all other functions and lights operating normally? There's no short to ground, is there?Regards,Randy Kasal

All other functions, lights are okay. If short to ground everything would be off. Correct? Thanks for response.

[Fritzc]

Have you checked your fluid levels? Front circuit, rear circuit, ABS circuit...
I will putter around this afternoon and do what you suggest. Thanks to all for your advice. It is sincerely appreciated.:thumb :hug

[PGlaves]

My hunch is that the ABS faulted during the collision and the brain has stored the fault ever since.

Find the procedure to reset fault codes for your bike (or have a dealership read and reset the fault codes).

[alien_hitchhiker]

Fritz, look under your seat for a three pin diagnostic plug. It should be capped with a blue dead ender zip tied in place.

If you find it try this:
- Insert a wire into the center receptacle on the plug
- Securely ground the free end of the plug (I use the battey (-) terminal)
- Switch ignition on
- Depress the ABS toggle switch on the dash and hold for at least 7 seconds
- Turn ignition off and remove the wire. It should be reset.

I keep a wire on my bike with an alligator clip on one end and a pin on the other just for this purpose.

One tip - Make sure your battery is well charged before starting. All the other previously mentioned tips about gap & fluid level also apply.

[MCMXCIVRS]

My hunch is that the ABS faulted during the collision and the brain has stored the fault ever since.

Find the procedure to reset fault codes for your bike (or have a dealership read and reset the fault codes).


That would be my bet too. There are two types of fault codes; soft codes and hard codes. Soft codes are ones such as the low battery voltage code that is so common, or a sensor gap fault, they will reset upon shutting of the ignition (though they often re-appear if the condition still exists). Hard fualts remain in memory until manually cleared, even if the condition that caused it no longer exists. These are faults such as a disconnected sensor. I once inadvertantly set a hard fault when I had the rear wheel sensor unplugged and turned on the ignition. I found the reset procedure on the IBMWR web site. It is not difficult to do and does not require any special equipment. If the problem persists after resetting, then a physical problem truely does exist and you'll need to diagnose and repair it.

[Fritzc]

Fritz, look under your seat for a three pin diagnostic plug. It should be capped with a blue dead ender zip tied in place.
If you find it try this:
- Insert a wire into the center receptacle on the plug
- Securely ground the free end of the plug (I use the battey (-) terminal)
- Switch ignition on
- Depress the ABS toggle switch on the dash and hold for at least 7 seconds
- Turn ignition off and remove the wire. It should be reset.
I keep a wire on my bike with an alligator clip on one end and a pin on the other just for this purpose.
One tip - Make sure your battery is well charged before starting. All the other previously mentioned tips about gap & fluid level also apply.

It works! IT WORKS! IT WORKS! I owe a 12 pack to Alien_hitchhiker for this idea.:hug :love
I was praying this was not a cruel joke and I was going to fry my computer or something else electrical. Only the mysterious electrical gremlins know how this works but it does. Now what do I do about the new battery I just ordered??
Oh well, it is better to buy a battery BEFORE you need on than after the fact.:violin

[OfficerImpersonator]

It works! IT WORKS! IT WORKS! I owe a 12 pack to Alien_hitchhiker for this idea.:hug :love
I was praying this was not a cruel joke and I was going to fry my computer or something else electrical. Only the mysterious electrical gremlins know how this works but it does. Now what do I do about the new battery I just ordered??
Oh well, it is better to buy a battery BEFORE you need on than after the fact.:violin

No real world experience to back this up, but if your current (no pun intended) battery is working perfectly well, how about attaching the new battery to a tender?

Would that keep the new battery preserved until it's time to replace the current (again, no pun intended) battery? I am the last person who should be giving electrical advice, so perhaps there are more learned sages out there who can confirm or deny my theory...

[Fritzc]

No real world experience to back this up, but if your current (no pun intended) battery is working perfectly well, how about attaching the new battery to a tender?

Would that keep the new battery preserved until it's time to replace the current (again, no pun intended) battery? I am the last person who should be giving electrical advice, so perhaps there are more learned sages out there who can confirm or deny my theory...
I will put in new battery (assume calls for exchange) and hope I die before I have to take off side panel again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If I should get another bike it will NOT have all the tupperware on it. How I yearn for my old /5!!!:kiss