Neutral Light Switch

[maniags]

Hello everyone... I just joined the group. I've been an MOA member since '96 and own an R1100GS. I've got a doosie of a first question which I haven't seen any posts on either here or Yahoo Groups. Seems my neutral light switch decided to act up about a year ago. After finding out at Red River, NM Rally in 2002 from a local vendor where this switch was located (behind the paralever) I decided to think about it for a time and read up on it. This past weekend I took the plunge. All necessary parts have been removed: wheel, shock, paralever and finally, the switch itself. I even took the switch apart (two small tabs on either side) to find out what makes it work. Now to my question... The tiny plunger on the switch appears to have had a clear bubble over it, almost like a seal to keep gear oil from it. This is my best guess without seeing a new one taken apart (don't think the dealer will let me do this before I buy it) to find out for sure if my old one is worn out. Does anyone know if this switch is sealed as described above???

Thank you before hand if anyone knows about inner workings of this switch.

Maniags

[Chickenman_26]

If you're talking about finding whether the switch is the culprit, use a jumper wire in the harness plug to duplicate the function of the switch. Light comes on, switch bad. However, failure of that cheezy little plastic switch is not an uncommon problem. Hopefully, you're not thinking about repairing the switch and reusing it. That's a guaranteed way to end up doing the whole job over again.

Stu

[maniags]

Chickenman_26: Thanks for your reply... I know the switch is the culprit, I'm just trying to understand why the switch is the way it is. It looks like I am the only one that has ever disassembled the outer plastic housing and gotten to the inner switch itself. I really do like to understand why things fail. Just my curious nature. And you're right about it being a "Cheesy little plastic switch."

Thanks again for the reply.

[maniags]

Got over to my local BMW dealer today and picked their collective brains and got a look at an expanded view of neutral light switch on their computer. This view explained much... There is an oil seal affixed to the interior of the switch that I didn't know about. It appears that this seal wore out allowing gear oil into the switch causing sporatic contact. Purchased both, seal and switch. Back in business!

[Chickenman_26]

Originally posted by maniags
Purchased both, seal and switch. Back in business!
Kinda makes me wonder...If they're gonna design something into such an inaccessible location, I'd think they'd make it a lot more robust and reliable. I did get one benefit, though, when I had to pull mine. I found the Paralever pivot bearings were toasted, and I replaced them. Without having to disassemble that part, I might not have found the damage until they bound up.

[Chickenman_26]

Originally posted by maniags
Purchased both, seal and switch. Back in business!
Good deal. When I replaced mine last year, neither shop in the Phoenix area had the parts. Got 'em down at Ironhorse in Tucson. Hopefully, the new Scottsdale boutique will be a good dealer.

[maniags]

I wasn't going to fool with just a light until something else went. Nothing else was broken but when I get back around to it this weekend I will be regreasing the splines. Other than the pivot bolts being very, very hard to "crack" (hair dryer in hand) it's been a pretty easy, straightforward job so-far.

I haven't heard of that new BMW dealer in Scottsdale, when's it going to happen?

[Chickenman_26]

Originally posted by maniags
I haven't heard of that new BMW dealer in Scottsdale, when's it going to happen?
Supposed to open by mid-May. They bought the franchise and parts inventory from what used to be Dirt & Street BMW. The building will be somewhere in Scottsdale airpark. They have a website up at this address (www.bmwmotorcyclesofscottsdale.com), but there's not much there.

[maniags]

The job is done. Neutral light switch is working right again... Checked, cleaned and greased the splines (although they were fine.) Bearings looked really good, too. No apparent wear at 28K! Since I had such a success at this job, decided to drop the centerstand to clean and re-lube it. It actually springs back up all by itself now!:) :) :)