Hall effect sensor wiring

[twins4life]

We're considering taking our first MC vacation.

On my mind to do before the trip is stuff that is due for failure.
I just replaced the final drive bearing in the 97, it was very easy to do.
The pivot bearings are now pivot bushings... I'm considering replacing the pivot bearings on the 02 as well.
Should I check or replace the hall effect sensor plate wiring? It is original and 10 years old.
Batts & Tires ok, all PM caught up.
Any suggestions appreciated.

[RiverRat280]

Don't know about the hall sensor but I'd replace the alt. belt if it hasn't in a while and check the brake pads. Check throttle cables and the clutch cable on the 97, lube barrel ends(not the cable itself) Also like normal the routine maintenance, all fluids including brake and clutch for the 02, valve adjust, TB synch.

[twins4life]

Don't know about the hall sensor but I'd replace the alt. belt if it hasn't in a while and check the brake pads. just replaced Check throttle cables just replaced and the clutch cable on the 97,just replaced lube barrel ends(not the cable itself) done recently Also like normal the routine maintenance, all fluids including brake and clutch for the 02, valve adjust, TB synch.recently done all of that

The belt is an excellent idea. Thanks.

[bmwmick]

I wouldn't be too concerned with the 1150, the HES wiring seems to hold up better on them than the R1100's.

How many miles on the '97 R1100? More important is how many times has it been
REALLY hot? The insulation on the HES wires turns to dust with high heat.

Most of the ones I see are damaged by 45K miles but some last till 75K miles.

[twins4life]

I dont know how to quantify really hot. It's got 41K miles. When I replaced the alternator belt the outer jacket on the HES looked good, but have no idea about the wires inside, or how to tell.

[bmwmick]

I dont have to quantify really hot. It's got 41K miles. When I replaced the alternator belt the outer jacket on the HES looked good, but have no idea about the wires inside, or how to tell.

The outer sheath is pretty unimportant. Read through this article to see what
you have to cut apart to check.

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

Do NOT cut the harness unless you have some self-vulcanizing silicone tape or
something similar to re-insulate the harness. The problem occurs when moisture
gets inside the sheath and causes the very small signals from the Hall devices to
short out. When that happens, the bike stops. :(