valve adj went great, except...

[Sully]

I found this 1" diameter x 5/8" thick t-shaped circular object with a .330" diameter hole in it; on it is a 1/8" thick rubber washer also 1" diameter. Found it wedged between the bodywork and the tranny, just above the tranny fill plug.

I looks like it broke off of someplace, but I can't see anyplace suspicious.

Can anybody identify it?

Anyway, my first valve adjustment was a snap; all 4 valves on the right head were too tight to get my feeler gauges into, and only one valve on the left head needed adjustment (it didn't feel the same as the upper exhaust valve).

Thanks Anton, Mick, and jingdog for the encouragement; I didn't retorque the heads but will wait to see how it looks after some riding after I scraped a lot of the oily/greasy mess off the heads and engine (and a can or two of brake cleaner).

Sully, looking at a 1000 mile round trip to Maine next weekend if this bike stops smoking....

[Sully]

it looked pretty nasty before I cleaned it off.

[Mr. Frank]

Where did all that oil come from? I've got 72K miles on my oilhead, and I never seen anything like that.

[Sully]

I posted the pix here so hopefully someone will shed some light on this leak. The bike runs great, but the clouds of smoke while sitting at traffic lights is unnerving!

I hope the new valve cover gaskets helped; I'll know in the morning after I take it for a shakedown ride without the tupperware installed....

sully

[j-budimlya]

Sure looks like a leaking head gasket.....

[AntonLargiader]

I found this 1" diameter x 5/8" thick t-shaped circular object with a .330" diameter hole in it
It's part of the bushing that holds the rear of the tank. Hopefully you didn't crank the tank mounting bolt down tight without it, or else you have bent the mounting plates inward. I see this frequently.

[lazywizard02]

Sure looks like a leaking head gasket.....

ditto - order gaskets and go consider all the other gaskets, seals you run across when doing the tear down.

This is a good time to check the alternator belt and change the fuel filter.

[Sully]

It's part of the bushing that holds the rear of the tank. Hopefully you didn't crank the tank mounting bolt down tight without it, or else you have bent the mounting plates inward. I see this frequently.

Anton: I found what I believe you meant- a ~5/16" bolt thru a sleeve (that looks like the one I found), which connects the rear lower corner of the gas tank to the frame; it's there, and the tank is secure....

I've been all over the bike this morning, and I couldn't find a place for this sleeve to have come off. Maybe the previous owners repaired the break but didn't see the "spare part" stuck near the oil fill plug?!*

Thanks for your input.

I found the coolest tips in Oilhead Valve Adjustment for Dummies to be 1: tie each pair of feeler gages to a clip attached to the cyl head. 2: use a tiny needle to feed a thread thru the flywheel mark's plug (that helped me especially since I dropped it 3 or 4 times while getting it into position); thank goodness I didn't pop it into the cavern.

Sully, waiting for the downpour to stop so I can ride my newly naked bike on its shakedown run.

[gnavecky]

[QUOTE
I found the coolest tips in Oilhead Valve Adjustment for Dummies to be 1: tie each pair of feeler gages to a clip attached to the cyl head. 2: use a tiny needle to feed a thread thru the flywheel mark's plug (that helped me especially since I dropped it 3 or 4 times while getting it into position); thank goodness I didn't pop it into the cavern.[/QUOTE]


I found it easer to find TDC with a pencil in the plug hole. Remove the coves, take out the plugs, put a pencil in the plug hole, rotate the rear wheel until the pencil stops coming out, and check\adjust the valves that are lose.

[Mr. Frank]

How about the two arrows pointing outward on the cam chain sprockets as a method of determining TDC? Is that a common approach?

[rado360]

it looked pretty nasty before I cleaned it off.

Check the rubber donut that is on the end of sparkplug tunnel on valve cover,if it did not seat right when the cover was put on it will leak like that.

[Sully]

How about the two arrows pointing outward on the cam chain sprockets as a method of determining TDC? Is that a common approach?

I had meant to use the "arrows on the cam sprocket" method, but completely forgot about it until afterwards!

I've got a little over 300 miles on it since the valve adjustment; it sounds much happier all the time, but especially when over 4500 rpm and up....

You guys were right, an owner's valve adjustment is much more painstakingly perfect than the wrench who is trying to do it "right enough" while moving service orders thru the shop.

Now that I believe the head gaskets are leaking, I'm thinking of giving the heads a re-torque, but "20Nm +180 degrees on the head bolts"? Hmm, I didn't want to back them off that far....

Sully

[deilenberger]

I found it easer to find TDC with a pencil in the plug hole. Remove the coves, take out the plugs, put a pencil in the plug hole, rotate the rear wheel until the pencil stops coming out, and check\adjust the valves that are lose.You don't want to read the thread someone posted on the IBMWR list about how the pencil he was using broke - and pieces ended up inside the cylinder. Took him about a week to get them all out.

The arrows on the camshaft cam-chain-pulley is right there - and way easy to use. I see no reason to go sticking things into the cylinders.

[AntonLargiader]

Anton: I found what I believe you meant- a ~5/16" bolt thru a sleeve (that looks like the one I found), which connects the rear lower corner of the gas tank to the frame; it's there, and the tank is secure....
Is it the same part? If it is, it's extra. Someone lost it and installed another. There is no other place it goes on your bike.

There are two halves to the support bushing. One on each side of the tank flange. Pull them out and see if you have a duplicate.