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RebeccaV
04-30-2007, 11:11 PM
I had a lot on my plate the last few months in terms of work and things to do around the house. The last thing that I was finding time for was a motorcycle ride.

But as the weather started getting warmer and bike projects were being completed, I started craving a ride. Like, bad. And not just any ride. I really wanted to pound out some miles. So when I saw a posting on the LDRider list about a Ride-To-Eat for Catfish at Ezell’s in Lavaca, AL, I put it on my calendar.

As the RTE got closer, my freelance work was slowing down and it looked likely that I would be able to get out of town for the Saturday lunch. In fact, the whole week before the RTE was open, so I decided to take a longer, more scenic route to Catfish in Alabama and I had the makings of not just a fun week of riding, but a culinary grand tour.
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Monday/ Ann Arbor, MI: “Mess of Lake Perch” beer battered with sweet potato fries at the Sidetrack Grill with Helen Twowheels.
On the way east I stopped in Ann Arbor to buy a H2W bag. Ok, so sometimes it takes me a while to figure stuff out, but Helen’s bags are really well-made and they come in all sorts of convenient shapes and sizes and for different functions. I picked up one sidecase liner, one mesh bag to attach to my fuel cell and dry clothes that I’ve washed on the road (no more clipping my socks and underwear to my tankbag), one bag that seems designed to fit perfectly under my fuel cell and one small bag for snacks.
After dinner, Helen showed me some of the delectable items that she is making for her first grandchild who will be arriving soon. Thanks Helen! It was great to see you and I LOVE my new bags.
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Tues & Wed/Saratoga Springs, NY: Tuesday night I had a burger, but Wednesday was Fish and Chips at the Circus Café with several riders. The company and atmosphere were wonderful. The food was OK.
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Thursday/Delaware, OH: Grilled Mahi-Mahi and Salmon with sesame-ginger sauce and grilled pineapple made by MOA Forum member Fourvalve . I don’t cook, so I was impressed and after a long, long day on the road, a home-cooked meal was a treat. Michael no longer has a BMW, but he has a great sense of humor! Thanks for the hospitality and I will see you in West Bend.
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Friday/Butler, AL: Two catfish filets, slaw, fries and garlic bread at Old Buddies across from the Western Inn. This was the warm up for tomorrow’s lunch.
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I had ridden a really long way to get to Alabama. I had never been to this part of the world before, and I was really hoping for a good “Alabama Experience.” My Friday night dinner was great and I really liked the Western Inn. I had heard about ‘Southern Hospitality’ but I had never experienced it like this. I am just another guest at the motel, and I am just another patron in the restaurant, but these people were so genuinely warm and friendly, it was delightful to be there and feel so well taken care of.

Don't let the lack of customers fool you. I ate early and when I left, Old Buddies was packed with locals.
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Saturday/Lavaca, AL/Ezell’s Catfish RTE – Finally!
When I checked out of the Western Inn, I asked Lisa at the front desk for directions to Ezell’s. “Go down 10 and when you go over a bitty bridge and see a big bridge in the distance, turn left at the first paved road.” We had a slight communication problem because of the differences in our accents – hers was WAY Southern and mine is WAY Northern (just ask tessler) but we figured each other out. Lisa, your directions were perfect, thank you.
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I never understood the Emmylou Harris song “Red Dirt Girl” and the words “Across the line and a little Southeast of Meridian” until I was there. Ezell’s Fish Camp is located right on the Tombigbee River and the original building served as a trading post during the civil war. This place just oozes history.

If you have never been to a RTE where people come from long distances for a ride and to eat together, there is a pretty special feeling of camaraderie. Especially when the RTE is in such a remote location as this. A group of riders, converging for a couple of hours to enjoy each other’s company and a good meal.
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And a good meal it was. I started with sweet tea and I think that it took a layer of enamel off of my teeth with every sip. I got used to it though. :) Then came the slaw, and it was different than I’ve ever had – it had a lot of relish in it, but it was good. I had two servings.
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Then came the deep fried dill pickles, which I am forever indebted to John Harrison for suggesting that I try. They were that good, and it’s awful because I will NEVER be able to get them locally and I WILL be craving them. *sigh* Also, thanks to Karen Gallo for splitting an order with me otherwise I would have eaten them all and been too full for the main course!
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Then, finally, I was served my plate of catfish, fries and hushpuppies. Wow. I shouldn’t use as fancy a word as ‘sublime’ to describe such great homemade food, but it was. The catfish was ridiculously fresh, and it had a really light cornmeal breading that didn’t smother the taste of the fish. As far as the hushpuppies, I was skeptical. I’d had hushpuppies before and they were basically blobs of deep fried dough – textureless and tasting of grease. But Ezell’s hushpuppies were like little pastries – the outside was light and crispy and the inside was moist and had the texture of cake with the flavor of sweet corn. So nice.
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I really think that heaven is a warm spring day in the deep south, on a weathered porch overlooking a beautiful river and eating down-home cooking with motorcycle people. Thanks Alabama and everyone who helped me have such a great trip. The ride did me good.
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ian408
04-30-2007, 11:27 PM
Oh my! Some good looking food there! Nice pictures too!

dlearl476
05-01-2007, 01:55 AM
BG, you stopped too soon. Next time you're in the mood for fish, try any of the restaurants along HWY 98 in FL. You haven't tasted Gulf Shrimp until you taste one that was swimming in the morning when you woke up. I spent two weeks here R&R-ing and one place had a "special" Shrimp, Oysters, and whatever fish happened to turn up in the nets that day. A large platter stacked 3" high for $12.95. Mmmmm.

(Although real catfish in the real south is a real experience)

http://www.google.com/maps?f=l&hl=en&q=Restaurants&near=Carrabelle+Beach,+FL,+USA&layer=&ie=UTF8&om=1&z=9&ll=29.959694,-84.545288&spn=0.925637,1.763306

Sleep over at the Gibson Inn in Appalachacola.

http://cdn.tripadvisor.com/Images-b1543556S-The_Gibson_Inn.jpg

snoone
05-01-2007, 06:36 AM
Great morning read.. Thanks for the report and pictures especially of all the outstanding road food. Now I need to get something enormous to eat.:eat

PAULBACH
05-01-2007, 06:37 AM
I hope you write up the entire ride and submit it to ON.

What a great adventure. :eat

tessler
05-01-2007, 06:40 AM
Nice ride, Rebecca! :thumb

dancogan
05-01-2007, 06:50 AM
Great report. Makes us northerners want to travel south just for that southern hospitality! Next time you come by the Ann Arbor area I know just the place to take you for deep fried dills! Treat's on me! :wave

SheRidesABeemer
05-01-2007, 08:12 AM
Good to see you out having fun!! Thanks for the report! :bikes

RocketCowboy
05-01-2007, 08:34 AM
Dangit ... now I'm hungry!

Great write up and excellent pictures! I'll be tracking down fried pickles for lunch just because of it. :)

cjack
05-01-2007, 10:14 AM
Nice ride.
I would have to have an extra serving of Lipitor though.

carter
05-01-2007, 11:30 AM
Hi Rebecca... great report ! Never been there, but gotta GO !
I loved your description of what must have been a really good hush puppie (or two or more?), hard to stop eatin them when they are that good... and the fried pickles. I have to admit I've never tried them (the pickles that is), but you can get them around here. Nice photo of the deck overlooking the river. My kinda place.

Ride to eat is more and more sounding like a teriffic idea. We recently took a day ride outside of Nashville to a one room cajun good eatin establishment between Santa Fe, TN (that's pronounced Santa FEE in TennessEE) and FLY, TN. Poppa Beaudreau, the owner and a transplant from New Orleans, fixed up some great cajun food, and talked and talked about food and people...and food. A tasty cajun lunch, in a totally unexpected location, and great roads to get there. A good day, I think.

You returned through Nashville...hope the road construction was kind to you.

jld2872
05-01-2007, 11:41 AM
Great ride report and photos. I agree with the suggestion of a write-up for ON. I was able to get one published, so it would be cinch for a professional! From your account, you surely encountered a great diversity of roads, scenery, people and food. Good for you for making it happen!

bobs98
05-01-2007, 11:45 AM
Thanks for the great write up, Rebecca!

Makes my mouth water for the great catfish, hushpuppies, slaw (and beans and pickled tomato relish) we get every year at our extended family reunion. You can get all that outside of Arkadelphia, AR at the Fish Net on Rt 7, just below DeGray Lake.

robsryder
05-01-2007, 12:46 PM
That fried food looked mighty good. Thanks for the pictures.

Alas, I've come to discover that as I age eatin' fried food then riding the motorcycle ain't the best idea.

I better stick to stuff with lots of fiber and drink lots of water. Sweet tea with lemon is good, though....somethin' that yankees just cain't seem to get the hang of. :)

j-budimlya
05-01-2007, 01:01 PM
I can't hink of a better reason for a ride than a fresh fried catfish meal.....

I spent my army days in Memphis Tennessee and fried catfish is one of the fond memories.....of course, Memphis Ribs and BBQ are two others....

Great ride story.....:dance