lt clutch problems

[raub60]

I'm kdown in NC visiting my son and I've seem to develope problems with my clutch. It isn't disengaing the gears. It is worse when the bike is cold. I filled the fluid and the problem still exsists. Once the bike warms up the clutch works better.

Any idea's guys?
Thanks

[BlackHoof]

Did you start to experience difficulty down shifting prior to this latest thing?
How many miles on your bike?
Have you ever had the splines lubed?

More questions answered may get the gurus going.

[raub60]

I just had it in for the 24000 maint. check last week. I put 1500 on it since then. It just kind of frustrating. With tires it cost around $1000 and now 1500 miles later it's not running right.

[jdiaz]

They should have bled the clutch as part of the annual service. Take it back and have the tech do it again.....the bleed nipple is attached to the right crash bar, so none of the bodywork has to come off.

There's a possibility that they did change the fluid and the clean stuff is now leaking at the slave cylinder, but you would either see a puddle on the ground OR the clutch would be slipping above 4000-5000rpm.

[raub60]

I don't see a puddle. Once I ride a while the clutch does seem to work ok. I did start to notice the problem the day after I did the Dragon, Cherhola Skyway and Smokey Mountains. I'm heading back to Detroit from NC and just wanted to see if there's anything I should do. NOne of the dealerships are open aroung here today. I guess I'll have to take the Inerstate back and not shift so much. When I accelarate fast it does sound funny. As long as I keep it smooth it seems to be ok. I like taking the small highyways and curvies but I don't want to get stuck in some remote place with nothing around.

[SweetT]

Have you tried pumping the clutch lever a few times before you shift? I had a friend that had this problem with his K12RS. He would have to pump up the clutch lever about 3-4 times before the clutch would disengage enough to shift.
FYI this is a classic symptom of air in the clutch line. Adding more fluid wont make it go away. You'll have to bleed the air from the clutch lines. you can probably do this yourself, although you may want to have a partner (father-son bonding time?) help. Around model year 2000, the clutch lines have a bleed nipple on the end (might be near the crash bar on the RH side or nestled in the bodywork above the RH footpeg) that has a ball check valve inside that will need to be depressed while your partner slowly squeezes the clutch lever. I used a small centerpunch to depress mine, but I guess a 4 penny nail would work too. I'm sure you can find more detailed info about bleeding clutch lines on the internet if you google it.

[roy]

I presume this is a K1200LT being discussed here.

Is the fluid level in the clutch reservoir dropping? If yes your slave cylinder is failing. If the weep hole has not been drilled in the mounting boss it will not leak the brake fluid out onto the ground. It will instead pump this fluid along the clutch pushrod and onto the clutch disc ruining the clutch. If you don't do your own work this is a $1000 or more repair.

Roy

[raub60]

It's an 05 Lt. If it is leaking would it be a warrenty issue?

[jdiaz]

It's an 05 Lt. If it is leaking would it be a warrenty issue?
Yes, as long as the bike has less than 36K miles.

[roy]

It's an 05 Lt. If it is leaking would it be a warrenty issue?


Make sure the dealer replaces the transmission seals IF the slave cylinder has been leaking. The transmission seals are NOT compatable with DOT 4 brake fluid and will also be damaged.

Like Jdiaz stated should be warranty.

Ask your dealer if they will also drill the drain / weep hole while they have the bike apart. This will prevent future clutch failures when and if the slave cylinder fails again.

Roy

[jdiaz]

Make sure the dealer replaces the transmission seals IF the slave cylinder has been leaking. The transmission seals are NOT compatable with DOT 4 brake fluid and will also be damaged.



Actually Roy, you bring up a good point. I noticed that some of the 2007 BMW bikes call out mineral oil for the clutch instead of brake fluid.

Does 2005 K1200LT hydraulic clutch specify mineral oil? Because if the dealer put in DOT4 brake fluid instead, that would probably cause the original problem. The fluid requirement is cast into the fill cap on the clutch master cylinder.

Just a thought.

[raub60]

Made it home. Over 500 mile today and it ran pretty good. Still slips when I accelerate real quick. I'm going to take it to the dealer. Thanks for all your input.