K75C clutch cable part number

[hgantz]

I have a 1987 K75S that was converted to C handlebars and I want to order a replacement clutch cable. There are two part numbers for K75 clutch cables these days. One is p/n 32732324995 and is 1510mm long. The other is p/n 32732324960 and is 1625mm long. I'm sure the shorter cable is for the K75S and the longer one is for the K75RT (and K75 Standard). The various "convert S to C bars" web sites all say get the C clutch cable but none specify the part number for it.

I'd like to hear from someone who has a real K75C or an S with C handlebars that has replaced the clutch cable recently. Which cable works best?

Yes, I could remove the one that's on the bike, measure it, and buy that one, but since my dealer probably doesn't have the cable I need in stock, I don't want to remove and install a cable twice.

Thanks.

[tjtraver]

I put a clutch cable on my 1995 K75C ( see my avatar ) a couple of years ago and it took the longer cable because of my higher bars vs K75S . A tip while you're at it : buy two cables and keep a spare coiled up in the rear tool compartment .

Also a trick to installing it : Disconnect the cable at the lever end and at the tranny end. Using electical tape , tape the tranny end of the new cable to the lever end of the old cable and carefully pull it through to the tranny end. Works great . Keeps you from having to pull the tank and routes it exactly where the original one was.

Good Luck with it .

Todd

[deilenberger]

Ummmm..... Harold - you could have asked (it's my old K75S that Harold is asking about..) :clap

The one on it is an S cable. It reached fine, wasn't any problem, just rerouted how it went through the fork tubes a bit.

And the one I left in the tailpod should also be fine.. :wave

[PGlaves]

Don, You're lucky.

Last time I sold a bike as soon as it needed anything the buyer (a friend) would bring it back for me to "look at."

[hgantz]

The reason I didn't ask in private is I don't want to wear out my welcome by emailing you too many annoying questions about your former bike, which everybody who's reading this should know, is really a great motorcycle.

Effort at the clutch lever is greater than my '94 was. In fact with heavy gloves on, my wrist cramps up and disengaging the clutch becomes painful after about 30 minutes of riding. Arthritis sucks. So I rotated the left handgrip assembly towards me a little and the new working angle doesn't cause wrist pain, but the effort still seems high. When the disengagement effort became high on my '94, replacing the 8 year old cable with a new one allowed me to pull in the clutch with two fingers after experimenting with various cable routings. Since I have the bellypan off the bike at the moment anyway I was going to install a new clutch cable. BTW - the inside of the belly pan polishes up nicely. :-) And I'm going to make some dowels to make belly pan installation easier (same idea as the locating dowels you made for transmission installation). But I digress....

I found the clutch cable you mentioned in the tail section but the sheath is worn through (probably rubbed the edge of something for many years) and the rubber gater at the clutch operating lever is torn. So I'm going to install a new cable and keep the existing working cable as the spare. The funny thing is the part number on the cable in the tail section doesn't match either of the currently available part numbers. I'm tempted to buy the longer of the two cables just so I can eliminate sharp curves in the route, but I'm concerned I'll end up with too much cable near the handlebar and under the dash pad.

[Kayseventyfive]

Is a list of part numbers with corresponding lengths available?

[98lee]

Kayseventyfive,

Go to maxbmwmotorcycles.com

Click on "Parts Catalog"

Click on "Go directly to online parts catalog" (in blue)

Click on your model of bike

Click on your year of that bike (in orange)

You will get the BMW fische with part numbers and list prices (and it does list the lengths in mm) The cables are listed as Bowden Cables (?)

:dance :dance :dance

[jdiaz]

Kayseventyfive,

Go to maxbmwmotorcycles.com

Click on "Parts Catalog"

Click on "Go directly to online parts catalog" (in blue)

Click on your model of bike

Click on your year of that bike (in orange)

You will get the BMW fische with part numbers and list prices (and it does list the lengths in mm) The cables are listed as Bowden Cables (?)

:dance :dance :dance
If you look for the desired clutch cable under the K75C model, you get a choice of two part numbers.....the same ones listed by Harold above. Therein lies the rub......

[98lee]

John,

Wouldn't you imagine if you have the low S bars you would use the short one and if you have the tall bars( >4" rise) you would use the long one that is about 4" longer?:dunno

The 1510mm cable is the correct one for K75Ss.

Are there three heights of bars? If so, maybe either cable works with the medium bars??

:dance :dance :dance

[jdiaz]

Are there three heights of bars? If so, maybe either cable works with the medium bars??


Right, there are three bar heights......S model, C model, and standard/RT. Either cable probably works fine, but the shorter one is easier to package around the steering head and under the tank? :dunno

[deilenberger]

The reason I didn't ask in private is I don't want to wear out my welcome by emailing you too many annoying questions about your former bike, which everybody who's reading this should know, is really a great motorcycle.

Effort at the clutch lever is greater than my '94 was. In fact with heavy gloves on, my wrist cramps up and disengaging the clutch becomes painful after about 30 minutes of riding. Arthritis sucks. So I rotated the left handgrip assembly towards me a little and the new working angle doesn't cause wrist pain, but the effort still seems high. When the disengagement effort became high on my '94, replacing the 8 year old cable with a new one allowed me to pull in the clutch with two fingers after experimenting with various cable routings. Since I have the bellypan off the bike at the moment anyway I was going to install a new clutch cable. BTW - the inside of the belly pan polishes up nicely. :-) And I'm going to make some dowels to make belly pan installation easier (same idea as the locating dowels you made for transmission installation). But I digress....
Hope you're removing the oil level window to clean the inside.. :brad

I hadn't really noticed the pull being that difficult, but then it did sit for 6 months unused after I returned it to the interim owner.. (long story about a bike that kept returning to a former owner..) I assume you've lubed the upper and lower ends and the clutch lever pivot?



I found the clutch cable you mentioned in the tail section but the sheath is worn through (probably rubbed the edge of something for many years) and the rubber gater at the clutch operating lever is torn. So I'm going to install a new cable and keep the existing working cable as the spare. The funny thing is the part number on the cable in the tail section doesn't match either of the currently available part numbers. I'm tempted to buy the longer of the two cables just so I can eliminate sharp curves in the route, but I'm concerned I'll end up with too much cable near the handlebar and under the dash pad.

The cable on it is the same one it had with the S bars - the C bars only move it slightly out and not a lot back.. the cable reaches fine. Can you get the PN off the cable that's on it? It should be printed on it somewhere..

See you this weekend, and we won't even make note of the missing sidecover (mebbe you'll have it by then! I'll ask Mikey tomorrow..)

[hgantz]

Hope you're removing the oil level window to clean the inside.. :brad

The cable on it is the same one it had with the S bars - the C bars only move it slightly out and not a lot back.. the cable reaches fine. Can you get the PN off the cable that's on it? It should be printed on it somewhere..

See you this weekend, and we won't even make note of the missing sidecover (mebbe you'll have it by then! I'll ask Mikey tomorrow..)

I never thought of cleaning the inside of the oil level window. Thanks for the idea. BTW - The sidecover is ready for me to pick up. I just need to find the time.

BTW#2 - I reinstalled the belly pan last night and the idea I had for using dowels to help get it positioned was a dumb idea. It's amazing what you can learn from actually going into the garage and looking at the hardware closely. Anyway, once I saw that the rubber donut thingies on the pan slide into and are captured by the front bracket, I spritzed the rear tongue and the rubber donuts liberally with silicone spray and it all slid together in about 10 seconds. Piece o' cake.

[deilenberger]

I never thought of cleaning the inside of the oil level window. Thanks for the idea. BTW - The sidecover is ready for me to pick up. I just need to find the time. I'd pick it up and bring it down on Sunday... butt, if I scratched it or something, well.. don't wanna go there..BTW#2 - I reinstalled the belly pan last night and the idea I had for using dowels to help get it positioned was a dumb idea.I was sorta wondering EdZachery what you had in mind, and couldn't picture it.. there is a bracket missing up on the top - but the reason why is a long story involving RK - so I'll tell you when I see you.. I never really missed it.It's amazing what you can learn from actually going into the garage and looking at the hardware closely. Anyway, once I saw that the rubber donut thingies on the pan slide into and are captured by the front bracket, I spritzed the rear tongue and the rubber donuts liberally with silicone spray and it all slid together in about 10 seconds. Piece o' cake.
Cool. Hopefully it won't slide apart as easily unintentionally (and don't overtighten the two bolts - people have been known to tighten them right through the rubber donuts...)

[jdiaz]

BTW#2 - I reinstalled the belly pan last night and the idea I had for using dowels to help get it positioned was a dumb idea. It's amazing what you can learn from actually going into the garage and looking at the hardware closely. Anyway, once I saw that the rubber donut thingies on the pan slide into and are captured by the front bracket, I spritzed the rear tongue and the rubber donuts liberally with silicone spray and it all slid together in about 10 seconds. Piece o' cake.

If you loosen the rear tongue so it droops 25-30 degrees from horizontal, the bellypan goes on REALLY easy. No silicone spray required at all.