K100 Computer connector question

[Beemer01]

I'm reassembling my just restored K100RS - pictures soon. She looks like new... and should for what I've put into her!!

The question revolves around the on-board computer connection. Getting it off last fall was interesting, it seems to have snapped back together too easily... and the Clymer manual is a bit fuzzy on the reassembly procedure. What is the level of difficulity on reassembly and how can I tell if it's been reassembled properly?

Before Pezzi jumps on this - the sprag clutch is still not working and I'm planning on bump starting it to get it running and then running it hard for 3-400 miles to see if the solvent I've put into the oil frees it. (I spent many, many hours with carb cleaner trying to free it that way without success last winter.)

I'd just hate to have my son wear himself out pushing me, because it wasn't starting due to an improperly seated computer connection. :help

Hint - I'm not hearing the fuel pump running - though admittedly there no no fuel in the tank.

[jdiaz]

Reassembly is usually not that tough, and you should hear a snap after camming in the connector at the front. I almost always have to hold the computer from the opposite side when snapping the connector in.

One other thing, make sure that engine solvent you are using is designed to be used "above idle." IIRC most of them are just supposed to work without any engine load. Paul or DonE could confirm.....I've never had to use the stuff.

[deilenberger]

Reassembly is usually not that tough, and you should hear a snap after camming in the connector at the front. I almost always have to hold the computer from the opposite side when snapping the connector in.

One other thing, make sure that engine solvent you are using is designed to be used "above idle." IIRC most of them are just supposed to work without any engine load. Paul or DonE could confirm.....I've never had to use the stuff.If he's using the Rislone (Paul's fav) or the CD-2 Detergent (my favorite) - both can be added to the regular oil and run normally. I personally would change the oil after a few hundred miles, but up to then - you do want to run the engine fairly hard to get oil/detergent tossed up on the sprag assembly.

[wmubrown]

I'm reassembling my just restored K100RS - pictures soon. She looks like new... and should for what I've put into her!!

The question revolves around the on-board computer connection. Getting it off last fall was interesting, it seems to have snapped back together too easily... and the Clymer manual is a bit fuzzy on the reassembly procedure. What is the level of difficulity on reassembly and how can I tell if it's been reassembled properly?

I'd just hate to have my son wear himself out pushing me, because it wasn't starting due to an improperly seated computer connection. :help

Hint - I'm not hearing the fuel pump running - though admittedly there no no fuel in the tank.

It should snap back together easily as Jon mentioned. A mis-installed connector will not prevent the fuel pump from cycling, the bike won't fire at all. Prior to inserting the connector, I would put a little ATF-II automatic transmission fluid (the red stuff) on each contact, it's terrific stuff for cleaning electrical contacts! (sold as "rail-zip" in model train hobby stores for cleaning tracks).

As for the pump... did the K100 have the side-stand safety? I don't recall now... but on a K1100, if your side stand is down, the pump will not cycle, the engine will turn off if it's running, and you cannot start the bike. The same is true if the engine kill switch is in the 'kill' and not 'run' position.

[jdiaz]

As for the pump... did the K100 have the side-stand safety? I don't recall now... but on a K1100, if your side stand is down, the pump will not cycle, the engine will turn off if it's running, and you cannot start the bike. The same is true if the engine kill switch is in the 'kill' and not 'run' position.

John, it hasn't been THAT long since you've had a K100!! :D

The sidestand is tied to the clutch arm with a mechanical linkage. You can start a K75/100 on the sidestand, but when you pull in the clutch to put the bike in gear, the sidestand gets retracted automagically.

[DaveMisevich]

If you pull the center pin out of the rubber mounting grommet on the right side of the bike, you can slide the computer out of the tray and clip the connector out in the breeze where you can see what you're doing. Then slide the thing back in and insert the pin. :)

[Beemer01]

In order.

I've added CD-2 Detergent to the oil and pray that that will resolve the sprag clutch problem. (I've had dreams about solving this problem)

This weekend I'll reseat the computer connection after cleaning the contacts, add a gallon of high test, roust my son up to push start dad... and hope for the best!

Temps in the 70s this weekend in Chicago (they say) so a sustained trip to clean the sprag clutch seems to be in order.

Over the winter I've been busy -



New hoses
New cooling fan
All fluids changed
Brakes bled
All splines lubed
Bike professionally repainted to Madison Silver (OE)
Reuphostered the seat
Replaced the fairing wing and black glass
Installed driving lights
Installed new headlight (Used relays for both)
Replaced the fuel damper, cleaned out the tank of debris
Installed Hyper lights brake lights





If this doesn't start my wife will either kill me or die laughing.

[wmubrown]

John, it hasn't been THAT long since you've had a K100!! :D

HEY!! Almost FOUR years! I'm getting *OLD*, remember!!! Better... but old none-the-less.

I do remember that the first modification I made to my K1100 was to remove that damn safety switch. I did the same on my garden tractor so it will still run when I get out of the seat. I still have the switch in a box... wanna see it?? I have my wisdom teeth in a film can too... somewhere... hold on a sec...

The sidestand is tied to the clutch arm with a mechanical linkage. You can start a K75/100 on the sidestand, but when you pull in the clutch to put the bike in gear, the sidestand gets retracted automagically.

OH YEAH! I hated that too, and disabled it... it didn't retract properly anyway. I remember now... blast your hyde... BMW went from a mechanical sidestand picker upper which really didn't work well anyway, to a safety switch that wouldn't let the bike run at all when the stand was down. Nice 'enhancement' that is...

[wmubrown]

If this doesn't start my wife will either kill me or die laughing.

OR... kill you while laughing...

So close... after all the other work, you're bound to figure out how to get the pump working...

[Colt03]

I used Rislone a few years ago. Ran it thru a full tank at high revs, drained the oil,changed the filter and it has been good since. It's funny I added two new shelves in the Garage this weekend and found my 1/2 bottle of Rislone leftover.

Good Luck.

[Beemer01]

Colt -

I'm hoping this'll do it. :dunno


BTW I used to live over in Avon, CT. Wish I'd had this bike back then, great country out West of Hartford for riding!

[cjack]

... I would put a little ATF-II automatic transmission fluid (the red stuff) on each contact, it's terrific stuff for cleaning electrical contacts! (sold as "rail-zip" in model train hobby stores for cleaning tracks)...

Interesting. Thanks for that tip. Do you have model trains, btw?

[wmubrown]

Interesting. Thanks for that tip. Do you have model trains, btw?

Yer welcome... I used to have a train set as a kid, but otherwise, no. I have had a few friends seriously into them though, which is how I learned of RailZip. So I bought some. Then I did a search online one day to buy some more and lo and behold, I discovered their secret! Now I tell everyone... ;)